Can I Change Car Oil Myself?

Yes—if your vehicle uses a conventional internal combustion engine and you have safe access, the right oil and filter, and somewhere to dispose of used oil legally, you can change your car’s oil yourself. For many owners, DIY oil changes are practical and cost-effective, but you must follow the manufacturer’s specifications, keep records for warranty, and comply with local disposal laws. Below is a detailed, up-to-date guide to help you decide whether to proceed and how to do it correctly and safely.

Legality, Warranty, and When DIY Makes Sense

In the United States, federal law (the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act) prevents automakers from voiding warranties simply because you perform maintenance yourself. The key is to use parts and fluids that meet the automaker’s specifications and to keep dated receipts and a log of what you did. Similar principles apply in many other regions (for example, the UK/EU’s “block exemption” rules), though specifics vary by country. DIY makes sense if you have safe tools, a suitable space, and a straightforward vehicle. It’s less ideal if underbody panels, special filters, or unique oil requirements complicate the job.

What You Need Before You Start

Before gathering supplies, confirm your vehicle’s required oil viscosity and specification in the owner’s manual or on the oil cap. Many modern cars call for 0W-20 or 5W-30 that meets API SP and/or a specific manufacturer approval (e.g., VW 508.00/509.00, BMW LL-17 FE+, MB 229.52). Using the exact spec matters for engine protection and warranty compliance.

The following items are commonly required for a typical DIY oil change. Verify your vehicle-specific needs in the service manual.

• Engine oil in the correct viscosity and specification (quantity per manual)
• New oil filter (spin-on or cartridge) and new drain-plug crush washer (if applicable)
• Oil filter wrench sized for your filter and a quality socket/wrench for the drain plug
• Floor jack and jack stands or ramps rated for your vehicle’s weight; wheel chocks
• Oil drain pan (capacity exceeding your engine’s oil volume)
• Funnel, shop towels, chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses
• Torque wrench (to tighten drain plug and filter housing to spec)
• Service manual or reputable data source for torque values and procedures
• Replacement underbody clips/fasteners if your car has a belly pan

Having the right tools and consumables on hand makes the job safer, cleaner, and less likely to result in stripped fasteners or leaks afterward.

Step-by-Step: How to Change Your Oil

Follow these steps on a cool, flat surface with the parking brake engaged. If jacking the car, lift at approved points and support with stands—never rely on a jack alone. Always confirm procedures and torque values in your vehicle’s service literature.

1. Warm the engine briefly (2–3 minutes) to thin the oil, then shut it off.
2. Secure the vehicle: chock wheels, lift if needed, and support with jack stands or use ramps.
3. Remove the undertray/belly pan if equipped, keeping track of fasteners.
4. Place the drain pan under the drain plug. Remove the oil filler cap to aid draining.
5. Loosen and remove the drain plug carefully; allow oil to drain completely. Replace the crush washer if required.
6. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to the specified torque from the manual. Do not overtighten.
7. Remove the oil filter (spin-on) or the filter housing cap (cartridge). Catch residual oil. Replace the filter element and O-rings as directed, lightly oiling new seals.
8. Install the new filter or housing and tighten to the specified torque/angle.
9. Using a funnel, add the correct amount of fresh oil per the manual. Replace the filler cap.
10. Start the engine and idle for 30–60 seconds while checking for leaks at the plug and filter. Shut off, wait a minute, then check the dipstick and top up as needed to the full mark.
11. Reinstall the undertray and fasteners securely. Lower the vehicle if raised.
12. Reset the oil life/service indicator via the dashboard menu or the procedure in the manual.
13. Record the date, mileage, oil brand/grade, and filter used. Keep receipts.

Taking the process slowly and verifying each step helps prevent common issues like leaks, overfilling, or damage to threads and seals.

How Often Should You Change the Oil?

Most modern vehicles with synthetic oil call for 7,500–10,000 miles (12,000–16,000 km) or around one year, but always follow your manufacturer’s interval or the vehicle’s oil-life monitoring system. Severe service—frequent short trips, extreme temperatures, heavy loads, dusty conditions—may require earlier changes. Turbocharged direct-injection engines can be sensitive to oil quality; adhering to the specified oil grade and interval is especially important.

When You Should Not DIY

Some vehicles are poor candidates for a first-time DIY job due to complexity or access issues. Consider professional service if any of the following apply.

• Hybrid/EV: Full EVs have no engine oil; plug-in hybrids do, but may have tight packaging.
• Specialty specs: Engines requiring niche approvals or low-ash oils for emissions hardware.
• Difficult access: Extensive undertrays, fragile fasteners, or skid plates.
• Stripped or seized drain plug, damaged pan threads, or leaking gaskets.
• No safe workspace, inadequate equipment, or uncertainty about the procedure.

In these cases, a trusted shop can save time, prevent damage, and ensure compliance with warranty and environmental rules.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Being aware of frequent errors will help you avoid expensive or messy outcomes.

• Using the wrong oil grade or ignoring required specifications/approvals
• Overtightening the drain plug or filter housing, leading to stripped threads or leaks
• Reusing a crush washer when the design requires replacement
• Double-gasketing a spin-on filter (old gasket stuck to the mount)
• Overfilling the crankcase, which can trigger foaming or catalytic converter damage
• Forgetting to reset the oil-life monitor or to reinstall undertray fasteners

A quick checklist and reference to the manual can prevent these issues and keep the job straightforward.

Environmental Rules and Used Oil Disposal

Used oil is hazardous waste; dumping it is illegal in many jurisdictions and carries steep fines. The good news: recycling is easy and often free.

• Drain used oil into a clean, sealable container (e.g., the original oil jug) without mixing other fluids.
• Place the old filter in a sealable bag or drain it per local guidance.
• Take oil and filters to auto parts retailers, municipal recycling centers, or household hazardous waste events that accept them.
• Keep disposal and purchase receipts with your maintenance records.

Proper disposal protects the environment and maintains compliance with local laws while documenting responsible maintenance for future owners or warranty claims.

Cost, Time, and Quality Considerations

DIY oil changes typically cost less than service shops and let you control the exact oil and filter used, but they take time and require tools and space.

• DIY cost: roughly $30–$70 for oil and filter (synthetic on the higher end), plus initial tool investment
• Shop cost: commonly $60–$120 for synthetic oil service, varying by region and vehicle
• Time: 45–90 minutes for a careful DIY job versus 20–40 minutes at a shop
• Quality control: DIY lets you use premium oil/filters and confirm torque and fill levels yourself

If you value convenience and a quick turnaround, a reputable shop is hard to beat. If you prefer control and savings—and enjoy hands-on work—DIY is appealing.

Safety First

Always prioritize safety: use jack stands or ramps rated for your vehicle, wear eye protection and gloves, work on a level surface, and keep a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby. Never crawl under a car supported only by a jack.

Bottom Line

You can change your car’s oil yourself if you follow the manufacturer’s specifications, work safely with proper tools, and dispose of used oil responsibly. Keep thorough records to protect your warranty and resale value. When in doubt—about specs, access, or safety—choose a professional service.

Summary

DIY oil changes are feasible and legal in most places, cost-effective, and satisfying for many owners. Use the exact oil and filter spec listed by your manufacturer, follow a careful step-by-step process with correct torque and fill amounts, and recycle used oil properly. If your vehicle is complex, access is difficult, or you lack safe equipment, let a professional handle the job.

Can I put new oil on top of old oil?

No, you should not put new engine oil directly on top of old engine oil as a substitute for a full oil change; instead, you should draining all the old, dirty oil and filter, and then refilling the engine with new, clean oil. While it’s acceptable to “top off” the oil level in an emergency, you are still mixing new oil with contaminants like sludge and acidic particles that can damage engine components and reduce performance. 
Why you shouldn’t just add new oil on top of old oil:

• Contamination: The old oil contains wear metals, acids, and sludge from the engine’s internal operation, which will mix with the new oil. 
• Reduced Lubrication: The fresh oil becomes diluted by the contaminants and won’t provide the full benefit of clean, high-quality lubrication, which can lead to uneven wear and potential engine damage. 
• Sludge and Deposits: The contaminants can circulate through the engine, potentially leading to sludge buildup and clogged oil passages. 
• Performance and Longevity: Ultimately, this practice reduces engine efficiency and can shorten its lifespan. 

When topping off is acceptable:

• Temporary Solution: If your oil level is very low and you need to get to an auto shop for a proper oil change, adding oil can be a temporary fix to keep your engine from running dry. 
• Get to a Service Center: Use topping off only as a means to get your vehicle to a service center for an immediate full oil change and filter replacement. 

Is it hard to change car oil yourself?

For most vehicles it is not too difficult. You’ll need a wrench or ratchet and socket plus an oil filter wrench. A pan to catch oil is a must as well. Modern cars are getting more and more difficult to change oil on due to underbody covers and terrible locations for filter and plugs.

Do I just walk in for an oil change?

Most oil change chains like that just let you drive in to do it, you don’t have to make an appointment. A lot of them will let you sit in your car while they do all the work even.

Is it worth changing car oil yourself?

DIY Option: Generally cheaper if you already have the tools and are comfortable doing it yourself. You can save more in the long run if you change your oil regularly. Professional Service: More convenient and saves time, especially if you’re not familiar with the process or lack the tools.