Is It Safe to Drive With Bad Power Steering?

You can physically drive a car with bad or failed power steering, but it’s unsafe and can damage the vehicle; at most, drive only a very short distance at low speed to reach a safe spot, and otherwise arrange a tow. “Bad” power steering can mean heavy steering effort, intermittent assist, warning lights, noise, leaks, or a broken belt—each carries its own risks and urgency.

What “bad power steering” means

Modern vehicles use either hydraulic power steering (HPS), which relies on a belt-driven pump and fluid, or electric power steering (EPS), which uses an electric motor and sensors. Electro-hydraulic systems (EHPS) combine elements of both. Issues range from low fluid and leaks (HPS) to sensor, motor, or voltage problems (EPS). Symptoms include stiff or inconsistent steering, whining/groaning noises when turning, a steering warning light, or visible fluid under the car.

Risks of driving with bad power steering

Driving with compromised assist raises safety hazards and can escalate repair costs. The following points outline the most significant risks you should consider before deciding to proceed.

• Reduced control and longer reaction time: Steering becomes heavy, especially at low speeds or during evasive maneuvers, increasing crash risk.
• Unpredictable assist: Intermittent EPS or failing pumps can cause sudden changes in steering effort mid-turn.
• Mechanical damage: Running an HPS pump with low fluid can quickly destroy the pump and contaminate the rack with metal debris, raising costs.
• Serpentine belt complications: If the pump seized or the belt snapped, you may also lose the alternator and, on many engines, the water pump—leading to battery discharge and rapid overheating.
• Fluid leaks: Power steering fluid can drip onto hot components; while fires are rare, leaks can worsen and suddenly reduce assist.
• Electrical faults (EPS): Low battery or charging-system problems can disable assist; a failing alternator may trigger both battery and steering lights—do not continue driving in this case.
• Legal and liability exposure: Operating a vehicle that isn’t roadworthy can violate safety laws; after a crash, insurers may scrutinize known defects.

Because these risks can emerge suddenly, especially in traffic or during emergency maneuvers, the prudent choice is to avoid driving beyond what’s necessary to reach a safe location.

If power steering fails while you’re driving: what to do now

If the steering suddenly gets heavy or a steering warning light appears, prioritize control and a safe stop. The steps below help you stabilize the vehicle and reduce further damage.

1. Keep a firm, two-hand grip and maintain a steady lane position; expect heavier effort at low speeds.
2. Signal, turn on hazard lights if needed, and gradually reduce speed; avoid abrupt steering inputs.
3. Move to the shoulder or a safe parking area as soon as practical.
4. Do not switch the ignition fully off while moving; that can lock the steering on some vehicles.
5. Once stopped, check for warning lights (battery, temperature, steering), listen for unusual noises, and look for fluid under the car.
6. If a belt is missing/broken, or both battery and steering lights are on, do not continue—arrange a tow.

After you’re safely parked, you can perform basic checks (fluid level, belt presence, obvious leaks) and decide whether a very short, low-speed move is safe—or if towing is the only sensible option.

When is it acceptable to drive, and how far?

Only consider driving if assist is merely reduced, not unpredictable; you have clear, low-speed roads; and there’s no sign of a broken belt, severe leak, overheating, or electrical system failure. Even then, keep it minimal.

• Limit to the nearest safe spot or repair facility, ideally within a mile or two on surface streets.
• Avoid highways, high speeds, tight parking, and heavy traffic where quick steering inputs are likely.
• Use both hands on the wheel; plan wider turns and allow extra space.
• If steering effort changes unpredictably or worsens, stop and call for a tow.

If any red flags appear—belt issues, overheating, battery warning, rapid fluid loss, burning smell—driving further is not acceptable; towing is the safer choice.

Quick checks before moving the car

These basic checks can help you determine whether a brief, careful drive is feasible or if towing is mandatory. They can also prevent compounding damage.

• Serpentine belt: Confirm the belt is present, tight, and not shredded. If missing/damaged, do not drive.
• Fluid level/type (HPS/EHPS): Check the reservoir and top up only with the specified fluid (often ATF or a specific PS fluid)—never mix types.
• Visible leaks: Look under the car and around hoses, pump, and rack; active dripping means towing is safer.
• Warning lights: Steering, battery/charging, and temperature lights indicate higher risk; a battery light often points to a belt or alternator issue.
• Battery voltage (EPS): Weak 12V systems can disable EPS; if recently jump-started or the battery is old, voltage may sag under load.
• Fuses/relays (EPS): A blown fuse or loose connector can cut assist; check the relevant panel if accessible.
• Tire pressure: Low pressure dramatically increases steering effort; inflate to spec before moving.
• Noises/odors: Groaning from the pump or a burnt smell signals damage—avoid further driving.

If these checks reveal anything severe, postpone driving and arrange transport; brief movement is only justifiable when conditions are stable and risks are minimal.

Temporary measures and what not to do

Some short-term steps can help you move the car safely to a shop, but certain quick fixes can worsen damage. Use the following guidance to avoid costly mistakes.

• Top up correctly: If low, add only the manufacturer-specified fluid; overfilling can cause foaming and loss of assist.
• Avoid “stop-leak” additives: They can swell seals but often lead to pump/rack failure and costly repairs.
• Don’t force full-lock turns: Holding the wheel at full lock stresses pumps and hoses; avoid parking maneuvers that require it.
• Do not drive with a broken/seized pump or missing belt: You risk overheating and battery discharge within minutes.
• EPS reset: Cycling the ignition after stopping can clear a transient EPS fault, but recurring issues need diagnosis.
• Mind the charging system: If EPS assist fades with electrical load (lights, blower), low voltage is likely—drive only if absolutely necessary and for very short distances.

These measures are about safe relocation, not repair; treat them as a bridge to professional service, not a solution.

Repair options and typical costs

Costs vary by vehicle and region, but the ranges below reflect common U.S. market estimates and can guide expectations when speaking with a shop.

• Hydraulic hoses/lines: $150–$400 parts and labor, depending on accessibility.
• Power steering pump (HPS): $300–$1,000+ installed; higher for some imports and performance models.
• Steering rack (HPS/EPS): $800–$2,500+ installed; alignment typically required afterward.
• EPS motor/column/rack assemblies: $800–$2,500+ depending on integration and calibration needs.
• Serpentine belt and tensioner: $100–$350; more if idlers or accessories are involved.
• Diagnostic time and fluid service: $100–$250 for inspection, bleeding, and fluid flushes.

Preventing collateral damage—by not driving on low fluid or with a broken belt—can keep repairs within the lower end of these ranges.

Towing and transport

When in doubt, towing preserves safety and avoids multiplying costs. Different drivetrains and steering setups affect the correct towing method.

• Flatbed preferred: Especially for AWD or vehicles with delicate transmissions.
• FWD/RWD specifics: Dollying the non-driven wheels is acceptable when flatbed isn’t available (check your owner’s manual).
• Steering lock: Keep the ignition in ACC to unlock the wheel when required; let the tow operator secure the column properly.
• Neutral and parking brake: Follow manual procedures to avoid drivetrain damage; some automatics require special steps.
• Roadside assistance: Many insurance policies, credit cards, and automakers provide towing—check your benefits before paying out of pocket.

A professional tow is usually cheaper than the extra repairs from driving a compromised steering system.

Common follow-up questions

Drivers often have practical concerns after a steering warning or sudden loss of assist. These quick clarifications address the most frequent ones.

• Can I pass inspection with a steering warning light? In many jurisdictions, no—warning lights and leaks can fail safety checks.
• Will my brakes be affected? Hydraulic brakes are separate, but losing a serpentine belt can overheat the engine and drain the battery, creating broader safety issues.
• Could tires be the culprit? Underinflated or oversized tires can mimic bad steering by increasing effort; check pressures first.
• Is it safe after topping up fluid? Only if the leak is minor and steering is predictable—keep distances short and recheck levels.
• Why did EPS fail after a jump-start? Weak batteries or voltage dips can disable EPS; test the battery and charging system.

If uncertainty remains after these points, assume the conservative path and arrange professional evaluation or towing.

Summary

You can steer without assist, but it isn’t wise to drive any meaningful distance with bad power steering. The safest approach is to stop, assess quickly, and either make a controlled, low-speed move to a nearby safe spot or call for a tow—especially if there’s a broken belt, active leak, overheating, or electrical system warning. Prompt, proper repair prevents bigger bills and keeps you and others safe on the road.