Can You Drive With a Power Steering Problem?

Sometimes, but it’s risky: you may be able to creep a short distance at low speed if the steering still turns smoothly and there’s no warning light in red, but any heavy, jerky, noisy, or warning‑light condition can make the vehicle unsafe—towing is often the wiser choice. Power steering issues can escalate quickly, increase stopping distance by limiting your ability to steer, and in some cases signal a fault that could lead to further damage or a sudden loss of control.

What Counts as a Power Steering Problem

“Power steering problem” covers both hydraulic systems (fluid, pump, hoses, rack) and electric power steering (EPS) systems (motor, control module, sensors, wiring, and the 12‑volt supply). Symptoms range from heavy steering effort to warning lights and audible noises.

The most common warning signs include the following items; recognizing them early can help you avoid a breakdown or costly repairs.

• Steering suddenly feels heavy, especially at low speeds or when parking.
• Whining, groaning, or squealing from the engine bay while turning.
• Steering wheel jerks, binds, or doesn’t return to center after a turn.
• Fluid under the car or a low/empty power steering reservoir (hydraulic systems).
• Burning oil or belt smell; visible fluid contamination or foaming.
• Battery/charging warning or low-voltage issues that coincide with EPS faults.
• Power steering warning symbol illuminated; amber/yellow means fault, red usually means stop immediately (confirm in your owner’s manual).

If you notice one or more of these signs, assume steering assistance may be compromised. Continued driving can worsen a leak, overheat a pump or motor, or cause a belt failure that affects other systems.

Is It Safe to Drive?

Steering is a primary safety system. Even if the car still moves, reduced assist increases steering effort, especially at low speed, lengthening the time and distance needed to avoid hazards. Safety depends on the specific fault, warning indicators, and driving environment.

When You Might Limp to a Shop (Short, Low-Speed Trip)

In limited scenarios, a short, cautious drive to a nearby workshop may be reasonable. Use these criteria to gauge that decision.

• No red steering or brake/charging warning lights; at most an amber steering warning.
• Steering remains smooth and predictable (just heavier), with no grinding or binding.
• No obvious fluid dump on the ground; reservoir not empty and no rapid loss.
• No burning smell, smoke, or screeching belt noise.
• Route is low-speed, low-traffic, and you can avoid tight parking maneuvers.

If all conditions are met, drive slowly, increase following distance, avoid sharp turns, and head directly to service. If any condition changes for the worse, stop and arrange a tow.

When You Should Not Drive—Tow Instead

These red flags indicate a high risk of sudden loss of steering assist or collateral damage, making towing the safest option.

• Red steering warning light, or multiple critical warnings (e.g., battery/charging).
• Steering binds, jerks, or intermittently “lets go,” or the wheel won’t return to center.
• Rapid fluid loss, puddling under the vehicle, or reservoir empty after refill.
• Burning smell, smoke, loud whining/screeching, or metal-on-metal noises.
• Serpentine belt damage or loss; a seized pump can throw the belt and also disable the alternator and water pump on many vehicles.
• EPS fault after deep water, collision, curb strike, or wheel/suspension damage.

Driving in these conditions risks losing control, overheating the engine (if the water pump stops), draining the battery (if the alternator stops), or causing a fire. Towing protects you and your vehicle.

What To Do If Power Steering Fails While Driving

If assistance drops out on the move, the car will still steer but require more effort—especially at low speeds. The following steps help you maintain control and stop safely.

1. Keep a firm grip and steer smoothly; don’t jerk the wheel.
2. Activate hazard lights and reduce speed gradually.
3. Avoid tight turns; signal and move to the shoulder or a safe parking area.
4. Do not open the hood immediately if you smell burning—let things cool.
5. Call roadside assistance if you have a red warning, severe noise, leaks, or binding.
6. If you must move the car, choose the shortest, safest route at low speed.

Staying calm and methodical reduces the risk of overcorrection and preserves remaining mechanical components until help arrives.

Quick Checks You Can Do

For hydraulic systems, basic inspections can reveal whether it’s safe to attempt a short drive or if you should tow. Perform checks with the engine off, on level ground, and away from traffic.

• Check fluid level and condition: correct fluid type only; look for low level, dark/burnt smell, metal glitter, or foam.
• Inspect for leaks around hoses, pump, and rack; fresh, wet fluid indicates active leakage.
• Look at the serpentine belt for cracks, glazing, fraying, or missing sections.
• Listen on restart: a brief whine may be normal; loud persistent whining, chattering, or squeal is not.
• Turn the wheel lock-to-lock gently in place: heavy but smooth can be drivable; any binding, clunks, or delay is a stop-and-tow sign.

If fluid is rapidly disappearing, the belt is damaged, or the pump is noisy, further driving can cause a breakdown or engine overheating on belt-driven systems.

For Electric Power Steering (EPS)

EPS relies on a healthy 12‑volt electrical system. Some faults are voltage-related or sensor-based and may be intermittent.

• Check the battery state of charge and charging system; low voltage can trigger EPS faults.
• Cycle ignition after a safe stop; some systems clear temporary faults if voltage recovers.
• Note any related warnings (ABS, stability control); shared sensors can affect EPS.
• Avoid deep water and pressure-washing the steering motor or connectors.
• Scan for diagnostic trouble codes if available; many EPS issues require calibration or software updates.

If an EPS warning returns immediately, or steering feels notchy or inconsistent, tow the vehicle—intermittent assist can be unpredictable.

Common Causes and Typical Repair Costs (2025)

Costs vary by make and model, but these ranges reflect typical U.S. retail pricing for parts and labor at independent shops; dealer or specialty vehicles may cost more.

• Power steering fluid service (flush/correct fluid): about $80–$150.
• Leaking hose or line replacement: about $150–$450.
• Hydraulic pump replacement: about $450–$1,300.
• Steering rack and pinion (hydraulic or EPS rack) replacement: about $1,000–$2,500.
• Serpentine belt and tensioner: about $150–$400.
• EPS motor/module or torque sensor repair: about $500–$1,800; programming may be required.
• Wheel alignment after steering or suspension work: about $100–$200.

Using the correct, manufacturer-specified fluid is critical; mixing fluids can damage seals and pumps. EPS repairs often require scan-tool calibration after installation.

Prevention and Maintenance

Routine attention to the steering system reduces the chance of a sudden failure and helps components last longer.

• Inspect fluid level/condition at each oil change; address small leaks early.
• Replace the serpentine belt at the recommended interval or at the first signs of wear.
• Avoid holding the wheel at full lock for more than a few seconds; it overheats the pump.
• Keep tires properly inflated; underinflation increases steering load.
• Protect EPS: maintain the battery and charging system; clean, dry electrical connectors.
• Get alignment after curb strikes or pothole impacts; misalignment stresses the rack.

These habits reduce stress on steering components and can prevent minor issues from becoming major failures.

Legal and Insurance Considerations

In many regions, knowingly driving an unroadworthy vehicle—especially with illuminated red warnings or a steering defect—can violate safety laws and could affect insurance liability after a crash. If in doubt, choose a tow and document the defect and your repair arrangements.

Bottom Line

You can sometimes drive a very short distance with reduced power steering assist if the system is only slightly affected and no red warnings are present, but any binding, severe noise, rapid fluid loss, or red light means stop and tow. Steering is safety-critical: when conditions are uncertain, err on the side of caution.

How expensive is it to fix power steering?

Fixing power steering varies widely, but you could spend $10–$20 for just a fluid top-off, while a pump replacement typically costs $500–$900. More involved repairs, like replacing the steering rack, can cost $500 to over $2,200, depending on the vehicle, the parts used (new vs. rebuilt), and whether you do it yourself or use a professional shop. 
Breakdown of Costs

• Fluid Top-Off: Opens in new tabFor issues that are just low on fluid, adding fluid can be a quick and inexpensive fix. 
• Power Steering Flush: Opens in new tabA fluid flush and replacement is another affordable option, costing around $50–$150. 
• Hose Repair: Opens in new tabA leaking hose can be relatively inexpensive, ranging from $60–$150 for the parts and labor, especially if it’s a simpler hose. 
• Power Steering Pump Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is a more significant cost, usually between $500–$900, depending on the vehicle and parts. 
• Steering Rack Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is one of the most expensive power steering repairs, with costs reaching over $2,200 in some cases. 

Factors Influencing Cost

• Vehicle Type: Luxury or large vehicles may have more expensive parts and installation compared to mainstream models. 
• Parts Type: New OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts are generally more expensive than aftermarket or rebuilt options. 
• DIY vs. Professional Repair: Doing the repair yourself can save significantly on labor, but complex jobs are best left to mechanics to ensure accuracy. 
• Labor Costs: Rates vary depending on the shop and location, with dealerships often charging more than independent mechanics. 
• Additional Issues: Replacing a component might reveal other worn-out parts, increasing the total cost. 

How do you temporarily fix a power steering leak?

Use a Sealant: If the leak is small and coming from a seal, you can use a power steering stop leak additive. These products can sometimes swell and soften seals, temporarily sealing leaks. Tighten Connections: If any hoses or fittings are loose, tighten them. Be cautious not to over-tighten, as this can cause damage.

Is it safe to drive a car if the power steering goes out?

Yes, you can drive without power steering, however, that does not mean you should! Driving without power steering for a long time can damage your pump which can be a lot more expensive to repair. Driving without power steering means parking and quick steering become extremely difficult to make on a daily basis.

How long can you drive with power steering out?

One won’t be able to cover even the first hundred miles with a dried power steering pump. Without the fluid, the power steering pump or rack can overheat leading to complete failure of the system.