Can I Raise the Height of My Car? What to Know About Lifts, Laws, and Safety in 2025
Yes—most vehicles can be raised, but the feasibility, cost, legality, and safety implications vary widely by model and method. You can add height through suspension lifts, body lifts (on body-on-frame vehicles), leveling kits, larger tires, or adjustable systems; however, you’ll need to account for alignment, braking, handling, advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS) recalibration, local laws, and insurance disclosure before proceeding.
Contents
- What “raising a car” actually means
- Common ways to add height
- How much lift is practical?
- Cost and time: What to budget in 2025
- Legal and insurance considerations in 2025
- Safety, handling, and ADAS impacts
- A step-by-step plan if you decide to lift
- Special cases
- Alternatives if you only need occasional clearance
- Bottom line
- Summary
What “raising a car” actually means
Raising a car changes its ride height and ground clearance so the body, undercarriage, and bumpers sit higher. Trucks and SUVs with body-on-frame construction are the simplest to lift. Unibody cars and many crossovers can be lifted modestly, but clearances, driveline angles, and suspension geometry limit how far you can go without compromising reliability and safety. Beyond off-road gains, lifts affect handling, fuel economy, tire wear, and can alter how the car’s safety and driver-assistance systems function.
Common ways to add height
There are several methods to achieve more ride height, each with different costs, complexity, and effects on performance and legality. Here are the most common approaches and how they differ.
- Leveling kits (spacers or torsion key adjustments): Raise the front 1–2 inches to reduce factory rake, improving tire clearance with minimal cost. Best for light duty and aesthetics.
- Suspension lift kits: Replace springs/struts and often control arms, knuckles, and shocks to gain 1–6 inches or more. Preserves suspension travel and geometry when properly engineered; most versatile but costliest.
- Body lift kits (body-on-frame only): Insert spacers between body and frame (often 1–3 inches). Increases tire and bumper clearance without changing suspension geometry, but does not add under-axle clearance.
- Larger-diameter tires: Adds real ground clearance under the axles/differentials. Often requires minor lift, trimming, correct wheel offset, and speedometer recalibration.
- Adjustable coilovers or lift springs: Modest 0.5–2.5-inch increases with ride-quality tuning. Good for crossovers and unibody vehicles where big lifts aren’t practical.
- Air suspension adjustments or spacer “links”: Vehicles with factory air can be reprogrammed or fitted with links/spacers for selectable height. Must verify ADAS and alignment tolerances.
- Long-travel/off-road conversions: Comprehensive systems for high-speed off-road or rock crawling. Significant fabrication, cost, and regulatory scrutiny.
Choosing the right method depends on your vehicle’s construction, how much height you need, and whether your priority is off-road capability, appearance, or load/towing performance.
How much lift is practical?
For daily drivers, 1–2 inches (via leveling, mild suspension lifts, or slightly larger tires) usually balances clearance with safety and comfort. Around 2–3 inches is common on trucks/SUVs with supporting parts. Beyond 4 inches, expect extensive modifications—steering, brakes, driveshafts, gearing—and greater legal scrutiny. Many EVs and crossovers are best kept to 1–2 inches due to suspension and software constraints.
Cost and time: What to budget in 2025
Costs vary by vehicle, parts quality, and whether you install professionally. The figures below reflect typical 2025 pricing in North America and similar markets.
- Leveling kit (parts/labor): $250–$1,200
- Body lift (parts/labor): $800–$1,800 (body-on-frame only)
- Suspension lift 1–3 inches (parts/labor): $1,500–$4,500
- Suspension lift 4–6 inches+ (parts/labor): $3,500–$10,000+ (premium builds can exceed $15,000)
- Wheels and tires: $1,000–$3,000+
- Four-wheel alignment: $100–$250
- ADAS calibration (radar/camera): $300–$1,200 depending on systems
- Re-gear (front and rear axles, if running much larger tires): $2,000–$4,000
- Driveshafts, CVs, or steering upgrades (as needed): $300–$1,500 each
- Programmer/speedometer correction: $150–$500
All-in, a careful “mild” lift with tires might run $1,500–$4,000; comprehensive builds with large lifts and supporting mods can easily top $6,000–$12,000+.
Legal and insurance considerations in 2025
Regulations differ by country and state/province, covering bumper and headlight height, fender coverage, tire protrusion, and certification of modified parts. Insurance and inspection requirements also apply. Use the points below as a starting checklist and verify locally.
- United States: Laws vary by state. Many states limit bumper/frame and headlight heights and require adequate fender coverage and mudflaps. Check the SEMA Action Network’s state-by-state “Vehicle Lift Laws” and your DMV. Disclose modifications to your insurer.
- United Kingdom: MOT focuses on safety (headlamp aim, steering/suspension integrity, tire coverage). Significant lifts or tire size changes may need evidence that components are approved and that the speedometer remains accurate. Always notify your insurer; some modifications may require Individual Vehicle Approval if extensively altered.
- European Union (e.g., Germany): TÜV/ABE-approved components and inspections are typically required; lifts around 50 mm may be permissible with certified kits and documentation. Unapproved parts can fail inspection and invalidate insurance.
- Australia/New Zealand: Often permit up to 50 mm total lift (suspension/tires/body) without certification; larger (e.g., up to 75 mm) may require ESC testing or engineer sign-off depending on the state. Consult local vehicle standards (e.g., VSB 14, VSI guidelines) and your insurer.
- Canada: Provincial rules may set bumper/headlight height limits, tire coverage and mudflaps, and safety inspections. Confirm with your provincial ministry and insurer.
Because penalties can include fines, failed inspections, or insurance denial after a crash, confirm the rules before buying parts and keep documentation for all approved components.
Safety, handling, and ADAS impacts
Lifting alters a vehicle’s center of gravity and geometry, which affects how it stops, turns, and how electronic safety systems behave. Plan for these changes and verify your installer can align and calibrate accordingly.
- Alignment and tire wear: Camber/caster/toe must be corrected; some lifts require adjustable control arms or offset ball joints.
- Braking and stopping distance: Larger tires increase rotational mass; expect longer stops unless upgrading pads/rotors.
- Stability and rollover risk: A higher center of gravity reduces rollover threshold; drive accordingly and consider sway bars where appropriate.
- Steering and scrub radius: Wheel offset choices can strain steering components and bearings; maintain reasonable scrub radius.
- Driveline angles: CVs, U-joints, and driveshafts may need correction to avoid vibration and premature wear.
- Aerodynamics and fuel economy: Increased frontal area and ride height typically reduce efficiency; EV range can drop noticeably with big tires/lifts.
- ADAS and lighting: Radar/camera sensors and headlights often require recalibration/aiming after a lift to maintain proper lane-keeping, adaptive cruise, AEB, and night visibility.
- Payload and towing: Check new tire load ratings and consider rear spring upgrades or airbags to control sag and maintain stability when loaded.
Handled properly, a mild lift can remain safe and predictable. Skipping supporting mods, alignment, or calibrations creates the majority of issues drivers experience post-lift.
A step-by-step plan if you decide to lift
Approach the project like a build plan to avoid surprises. The sequence below helps match parts to your goals and keeps the vehicle safe and compliant.
- Define your goal: clearance for trails/driveways, bigger tires, towing stance, or aesthetics.
- Measure baseline: fender-to-hub height, ground clearance points, current alignment, and tire clearance at full lock/compression.
- Choose a method: leveling, mild suspension lift, body lift (if body-on-frame), or tire size change—often a combination.
- Verify compatibility: ensure the kit is engineered for your exact year/trim, drivetrain (AWD/4WD), and ADAS package.
- Select quality parts: look for tested kits with documentation; avoid generic spacers on vehicles with complex multi-link or active suspensions.
- Plan supporting mods: alignment parts, brake upgrades, gearing, driveshafts, bump stops, and appropriate wheel offset.
- Use professional installation where needed: especially for big lifts, air suspension, or vehicles with extensive ADAS.
- Align and calibrate: perform a four-wheel alignment and recalibrate ADAS and headlight aim.
- Reprogram as required: correct the speedometer/odometer for tire size; update TPMS thresholds if necessary.
- Torque and inspect: re-torque all suspension/steering hardware after 50–100 miles and again at 500 miles.
- Update the rest: ensure the spare tire, jack, and recovery points suit the new setup.
- Test safely: check for rubbing, vibrations, brake feel, and sensor alerts in a controlled environment.
- Notify your insurer and, if applicable, schedule inspection or certification.
This process helps ensure the lift meets your needs, remains safe, and passes legal and insurance requirements.
Special cases
EVs and hybrids
Battery packs reduce underbody clearance and add mass low in the chassis. Mild lifts (1–2 inches) and slightly taller tires are usually the limit without major geometry changes. Expect range penalties from larger tires and higher ride height. Many EVs require ADAS and ride-height sensor recalibration; verify cooling airflow and underbody panel integrity post-lift.
Vehicles with factory air suspension
Some models (e.g., premium SUVs, certain EVs) allow selectable height from the factory. Software coding or linkage spacers can add modest, reversible lift, but exceeding design limits can confuse height sensors and ADAS. Always use platform-specific solutions and recalibrate ride height and cameras/radars afterward.
Performance cars and daily commuters
Unibody sedans/hatchbacks benefit most from modest lift springs or coilovers set slightly higher, plus slightly taller tires. Large lifts can degrade handling, aero, and braking and may be difficult to align within spec.
Alternatives if you only need occasional clearance
If your goal is occasional driveway or trail clearance rather than maximum height, these strategies can deliver benefits with fewer trade-offs.
- Protective armor: skid plates, differential and fuel-tank guards, and rock rails prevent damage without affecting geometry.
- Tire choice: slightly taller, all-terrain tires with reinforced sidewalls can add real clearance and durability with minor impact.
- Air helper springs or adjustable dampers: improve load handling and reduce sag when towing or hauling without a big lift.
- Driving technique and spotting: approach angles, line choice, and removable ramp boards for steep driveways can solve many clearance issues.
These options often deliver most of the benefit at lower cost and with less regulatory and safety complexity.
Bottom line
You can raise the height of most cars, but the safest and most practical approach is a mild, well-engineered lift paired with appropriate tires—and a thorough plan for alignment, ADAS calibration, and legal compliance. Before you buy, confirm local regulations, consult a reputable suspension or 4×4 specialist for your exact model, and budget for supporting upgrades. Done right, a lift can add capability and confidence without sacrificing safety.
Summary
Raising your car is feasible via leveling kits, suspension or body lifts, tire changes, or adjustable systems, but each path has trade-offs. Keep lifts modest for daily driving, budget for alignment and ADAS calibration, verify legal limits and certifications in your region, and notify your insurer. Quality parts, professional installation, and proper setup are the keys to safe, compliant results in 2025.
How do you lift your car height?
Lifting the Car from the Side Another option is to jack up the car from the side. Jack up one side, place the jack stands, then do the same on the other side. Be cautious here as it’s easy to lift too much. It’s a very good idea to place chocks ahead of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels.
Can you increase the height of a car?
Suspension lift kits
The clue is in the name of this kit – it’s a few items that, together, can be fitted to your suspension to provide greater height for the entire body and frame of the vehicle.
How much does it cost to raise a car?
Types of car lifts and their costs. Each type of lift has its pros and cons. Some lifts are better for oil change shops and some are better for tire or repair shops. In general, car lifts can cost between $1,000 and $20,000 depending on brand, lift capacity, lift height, and features.
What to do if your car is too low?
An (air) suspension system could well be the solution! If your vehicle is too low, this indicates that your vehicle has an (overly) heavy load. As a result, there is little or no spring travel.


