Can I Replace My Side Mirror Myself?

Yes—on many cars, replacing a side mirror is a straightforward DIY job that takes 30–90 minutes and basic tools. However, if your mirror housing includes integrated cameras, blind‑spot indicators, auto-dimming, or power-fold features, you may need special procedures or calibration; in those cases, a professional repair is safer and sometimes required to restore full function and warranty coverage. Here’s how to decide, what it costs, and the steps involved.

What Determines Whether This Is a DIY Job

Several factors influence the difficulty and whether you should handle the work yourself. The following points outline what typically makes a side mirror replacement easy—or more complex.

• Mirror type: Manual or simple power mirrors are usually DIY-friendly; mirrors with heating, memory, power-fold, auto-dimming, cameras, or turn-signal repeaters add complexity.
• Electronics/ADAS: Vehicles with 360°/surround-view cameras in the mirror housing may require calibration. Blind-spot indicators in the glass are usually plug-and-play; the sensors themselves are often in the rear bumper, not the mirror.
• Door design: Some cars let you access the mirror fasteners via a small interior trim cap; others require removing the entire door panel.
• Age and environment: Rusted studs/fasteners (common in snowy or coastal regions) can extend the job and increase breakage risk.
• Parts availability: Replacing just the glass is cheaper and faster, but if the housing, motor, or wiring is damaged, you’ll need the full assembly.

In practical terms, if your mirror lacks advanced features and the mounting area is accessible, the task tends to be uncomplicated. Added electronics and tight packaging are the main reasons to consider professional help.

Tools and Parts You’ll Need

Most DIY mirror swaps rely on standard hand tools. Depending on your vehicle and whether you’re replacing the glass or the entire assembly, gather the following.

• Replacement mirror glass or complete mirror assembly (OEM or quality aftermarket; match year/trim/options)
• Trim pry tools (plastic), small flathead screwdriver
• Socket set (commonly 8–10 mm) and ratchet; Torx bits if required
• Needle-nose pliers; magnetic pickup tool (for dropped nuts)
• Panel clip removal tool and spare door-panel clips
• Painter’s tape or fender cover to protect paint
• Isopropyl alcohol and clean cloth (for glass-adhesive prep)
• Glass adhesive or backing plate (if replacing glass only)
• Dielectric grease (for electrical connectors)
• Torque wrench with low-range capability (if specs provided)
• 12V battery wrench (to disconnect negative terminal)

Having these items on hand helps prevent mid-job delays and reduces the risk of breaking clips or stripping fasteners.

Step-by-Step: Replacing a Side Mirror

The steps below cover a typical full mirror assembly replacement. Your vehicle may vary; always consult the service manual for model-specific instructions and torque specs.

1. Confirm the correct part. Match paint code, power/heated features, memory/power-fold, turn signal, and camera options.
2. Park safely. Work on level ground, engage the parking brake, and lower the window on the affected door.
3. Disconnect the battery. Remove the negative terminal to protect electronics and reduce airbag risk when removing door trim.
4. Protect surfaces. Use painter’s tape along the mirror base and door edge to avoid scratches.
5. Remove the interior sail panel. Pry off the small trim cover at the upper front corner of the door; disconnect any tweeter speaker if present.
6. If required, remove the door panel. Unscrew visible fasteners (often behind door-pull caps) and release clips around the perimeter; lift up and away. Disconnect any cables and wiring connectors.
7. Unplug the mirror connector. Note the routing and any clips holding the harness.
8. Support the mirror housing. Hold the mirror from the outside so it doesn’t fall once fasteners are removed.
9. Remove mounting nuts/bolts. Typically 3 fasteners. Keep washers and gaskets aligned.
10. Extract the old mirror. Feed the wiring harness through the hole carefully.
11. Prepare the mounting surface. Clean debris; ensure the foam gasket is intact or replace it to prevent wind noise and water ingress.
12. Install the new mirror. Feed the harness, seat the gasket, and hand-start all fasteners before tightening evenly to spec.
13. Reconnect the harness. Use dielectric grease on pins if appropriate; secure clips and routing to avoid window interference.
14. Reinstall the door panel and sail trim. Verify all clips are engaged and screws are snug.
15. Reconnect the battery and test. Check mirror adjust, heat, turn signal, puddle lamp, memory/power-fold, and auto-dimming. For camera-equipped mirrors, verify camera view in the infotainment system.
16. Aim the mirror glass. Sit in driving position and adjust for a minimal car-body view (about a sliver) to reduce blind spots.
17. If applicable, perform camera calibration. Follow the service manual or have a shop calibrate surround-view/side-view cameras.

Work slowly and keep track of fasteners. If a function doesn’t work after reassembly, recheck connectors and wire routing before assuming a bad part.

Aiming, Initialization, and Calibration

Mirror Glass Aiming

Proper aim reduces blind spots: the horizon should intersect the center of the glass, with just a thin sliver of your vehicle body visible on the inside edge.

Power-Fold/Memory Initialization

Some cars require a reset—often holding the fold button for several seconds or cycling lock/unlock—to re-home the mirror motors. Check your owner’s manual.

Camera and ADAS Considerations

If your mirror includes a camera (used for 360° or lane-view), the vehicle may require a static or dynamic calibration with targets and a scan tool. Expect to visit a dealer or glass/ADAS shop; costs typically range from $150 to $400. Blind-spot indicators in the mirror usually don’t need calibration, but verify that the warning icon illuminates during startup and functions in a road test.

Costs and Time: What to Expect in 2025

Prices vary by vehicle and features. The ranges below reflect typical U.S. parts and labor in 2025.

• Glass only: $20–$80 aftermarket; $80–$200 OEM. 10–30 minutes.
• Full manual/power mirror (no camera): $75–$350 aftermarket; $150–$600 OEM. 45–90 minutes.
• Feature-rich mirror (heat, memory, power-fold, turn signal): $250–$700 aftermarket; $300–$900+ OEM. 1–2 hours.
• Labor at a shop: $100–$250 for installation; additional $150–$400 if camera calibration is required.

DIY typically saves most or all labor costs; camera-equipped and luxury models narrow that savings because of calibration and pricier assemblies.

When You Shouldn’t DIY

Some scenarios raise the risk of improper installation or safety issues. Consider professional service if any of the following apply.

• The mirror contains a camera or advanced features and your service manual specifies calibration.
• The door has side airbags near the work area and you’re not comfortable with trim removal.
• Severe rust or damaged studs/threads are visible.
• You lack interior trim tools or have limited experience with fragile door clips.
• Your insurance claim requires documentation from a licensed repair facility.

These cases can turn a simple job into a costly one if mistakes occur, making professional help the safer, more economical choice.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even routine mirror swaps can go sideways. Watch out for these pitfalls.

• Skipping battery disconnect and triggering an airbag or fault code during door-panel removal.
• Overtightening mounting hardware and cracking the mirror base or stripping studs.
• Pinching the wiring harness so the window binds or a function fails intermittently.
• Forgetting foam gaskets, leading to wind noise, vibration, or water leaks.
• Ordering the wrong part number—especially with features like auto-dim or camera.
• Driving without the legally required mirrors while waiting on parts.

A careful check of parts, torque, routing, and seals saves time and prevents repeat work.

Legal and Insurance Considerations

In many U.S. states, you must have at least two functional mirrors, one of which is typically the driver’s side. Driving with a missing or nonfunctional required mirror can result in a citation. If the damage occurred in a collision, your insurer may cover OEM parts and calibration when ADAS is involved; confirm before buying parts. Keep receipts and take photos of the repair for claim records.

Disposal and Safety

Handle broken glass with gloves, seal shards in a rigid container, and dispose of them according to local regulations. Recycle metal and plastic components where possible. Always wear eye protection and avoid working in wet conditions around the door’s electrics.

Summary

You can often replace a side mirror yourself with basic tools, saving labor costs in under two hours. Stick to DIY if the mirror is manual or a simple power/heated unit. If your mirror includes cameras or complex features—or if door airbags and heavy rust are involved—professional installation and possible calibration are advisable. Verify the correct part, disconnect the battery, follow careful trim-removal steps, and test all functions before driving.

Do body shops replace side mirrors?

Yes! Side mirror repair and replacement can be completed in a relatively short amount of time. Is it dangerous to drive with a damaged side view mirror? A vehicle’s side mirror is a crucial safety feature that ensures you, the driver, have a complete view of your surroundings.

Does AutoZone sell driver side mirrors?

AutoZone offers a wide selection of side view mirrors, ensuring you’ll find the right compatibility with your car.

Is it illegal to drive with one side mirror broken?

It is not illegal to drive with a single broken mirror, but you do need to be careful. The mirror needs to be secure to the vehicle so that it doesn’t fall off. You also want to make sure that the glass is stable enough so you won’t be leaving broken glass all over the place.

How much does it cost to replace a side mirror on a car?

Replacing a car side mirror costs around $299 on average. This pricing includes both parts, which can range from $139 to $328, and labor costs, generally adding about $90.