Can I replace the power steering motor myself?

Yes—on some vehicles with electric power steering (EPS), a skilled DIYer can replace the motor or the entire steering assist unit, but many models require specialized tools, programming/calibration, and sometimes subframe removal, making professional service the safer and often more cost-effective choice. The best decision depends on your specific vehicle, whether the motor is serviceable separately, and your access to equipment like an OEM-capable scan tool and accurate service information.

What system do you have? EPS vs. hydraulic

Before planning any repair, identify your steering system. Most modern cars use EPS, where an electric motor provides steering assist—mounted either on the steering column or integrated into the steering rack. Older or performance-oriented vehicles often use hydraulic power steering driven by an engine belt pump, while some use an electro-hydraulic pump (an electric motor driving a hydraulic pump).

In many EPS vehicles, the “motor” isn’t sold separately: the manufacturer supplies the entire rack-and-pinion or column assembly with an integrated motor and control module. Even when the motor is available alone, replacement typically requires module coding and steering angle/torque sensor calibration with a scan tool.

DIY feasibility: a practical checklist

Use the following considerations to gauge whether a home replacement is realistic for your vehicle and skill level.

• Serviceability: Check your factory service manual to see if the motor is sold separately or only with the rack/column assembly.
• Access and complexity: Column-mounted EPS motors are usually easier; rack-integrated EPS may require lowering the subframe and disconnecting the intermediate shaft and tie rods.
• Tools: You’ll likely need E-Torx sockets, a torque wrench, ball joint/tie-rod tools, and possibly subframe alignment pins.
• Electronics: Many cars require EPS module coding, firmware updates, or “basic settings” with an OEM-capable scan tool (J2534 pass-thru plus OEM subscription, or a professional-grade tool).
• Calibration: Steering angle sensor (SAS) zeroing and EPS torque/center learn are commonly required after replacement.
• Alignment: If you remove the rack or disturb tie rods/subframe, a wheel alignment is mandatory.
• Safety: You must lock/center the steering wheel and protect the clockspring; improper handling can deploy airbags or damage the SRS system.
• Warranty/recalls: Some EPS issues are covered by extended warranties or recalls; check TSBs and campaign eligibility before buying parts.

If several of these points are unfamiliar or unworkable—especially coding and calibration—professional service is advisable to avoid steering faults or safety risks.

Tools and parts you’ll likely need

This is a general list; consult your vehicle’s service literature for model-specific requirements and one-time-use hardware.

• Replacement EPS motor or complete rack/column assembly, with new mounting hardware (many bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced).
• Torque wrench with correct ranges; E-Torx and Torx bits; breaker bar; puller for tie-rod ends.
• OBD-II scan tool with EPS/SAS capabilities or an OEM software subscription and J2534 interface for coding/calibration.
• Steering wheel lock tool and/or clockspring locking pin; paint marker for indexing shafts.
• Jack, stands, wheel chocks, and underbody splash shield fastener tools.
• Battery maintainer and safe battery terminal covers; dielectric grease for connectors if specified.
• Access to the factory service manual and torque specifications; subframe alignment pins if the procedure calls for them.
• Alignment appointment after reassembly if the rack or tie rods are disturbed.

Having the right gear ahead of time reduces the risk of mid-job delays and ensures torques, indexing, and calibrations are done correctly.

High-level procedure overview (varies by vehicle)

These steps summarize what’s typically involved. Follow your vehicle’s official procedure—details like torque specs, bolt replacement, and calibration steps are crucial and model-specific.

1. Confirm the diagnosis: Scan for codes, check power/ground, inspect connectors, and verify that the motor—not wiring, sensors, or the control module—is the root cause.
2. Identify parts and procedure: Determine whether the motor is replaceable solo or if the rack/column assembly is required; gather all one-time-use bolts and seals.
3. Power down safely: Center the wheels, lock the steering wheel, disconnect the negative battery terminal, and wait the specified time for airbag capacitor discharge.
4. Protect the SRS/clockspring: Do not rotate the steering wheel with the intermediate shaft disconnected. Use a lock or tape and follow clockspring centering instructions.
5. Gain access: For column-mounted EPS, remove lower trim/knee bolster; for rack-mounted EPS, lift the vehicle, remove shields, mark the intermediate shaft and rack input, remove the pinch bolt, and disconnect tie-rod ends. Subframe lowering/supporting the engine/trans may be required.
6. Remove and replace: Unplug electrical connectors, unbolt the motor or assembly, and install the new unit per the manual, using new bolts and exact torque specs. Align index marks on the shaft/rack input.
7. Reconnect and inspect: Reconnect wiring with proper routing and strain relief. Verify grounds are clean and tight. Reconnect the battery.
8. Program and calibrate: Perform EPS module coding/flash if required, SAS zero-point calibration, and any EPS torque/center learn or “basic settings.” Clear DTCs.
9. Road test and align: Verify assist is consistent, the wheel is centered, and no warning lights remain. Get a professional alignment if the rack or tie rods were disturbed.

Skipping calibration or mis-torquing critical fasteners can cause pull, noises, warning lights, or loss of assist—follow the factory process precisely.

When you should not DIY

Certain conditions make DIY replacement risky or impractical.

• The EPS motor is not serviceable separately, and rack replacement requires dropping the subframe with engine support you can’t safely provide.
• Your vehicle requires module coding/programming you can’t access (OEM software, subscriptions, or As-Built data entry).
• ADAS dependencies: Your model needs post-repair calibrations that require targets and procedures you don’t have.
• Severe corrosion or seized fasteners increase the chance of damage or incomplete reassembly.
• Active SRS/power steering warnings you can’t diagnose—there may be underlying faults beyond the motor.

In these cases, a qualified shop with the right equipment can complete the job more safely and often faster, reducing the risk of costly do-overs.

If you have hydraulic or electro-hydraulic power steering

If your vehicle uses a belt-driven hydraulic pump, there is no “motor” to replace—repairs involve the pump, hoses, and fluid. Some vehicles use an electro-hydraulic pump (an electric motor powering a fluid pump). These are typically replaced as complete assemblies; they rarely require programming but do require proper bleeding and sometimes high-current electrical checks.

Costs and time: what to expect

Budget varies widely by make/model and whether you’re replacing just the motor or the entire assembly.

• Parts: Used EPS motor $100–$300 (where serviceable); reman column or rack $500–$1,500; new OEM rack often $1,200–$2,500+.
• Labor: Column-mounted motor 1–3 hours; rack-integrated EPS 4–8 hours (more with subframe work). Alignment $100–$200; programming/calibration $100–$200+ (or OEM software subscription costs for DIY).

Prices vary by region and brand; luxury and performance models typically cost more and are more likely to demand programming.

Legal and safety notes

Steering components are safety critical. Keep these points in mind.

• Follow all torque specifications and replace one-time-use bolts; document your work.
• Some jurisdictions require inspection after steering system repairs—check local regulations.
• Dispose of old parts responsibly; core returns may apply to reman racks.

Proper documentation and adherence to procedures protect both safety and any remaining warranties.

Bottom line

If your vehicle’s EPS motor is separately serviceable and you have the tools, software, and experience, a careful DIY replacement is possible. But when the motor is integrated into the rack, programming and precise calibrations are required, or subframe removal is involved, a professional repair is usually the smarter, safer path. Always verify service procedures for your exact VIN, check for recalls/TSBs, and plan for post-repair calibration and alignment.

Summary

You can replace a power steering motor yourself on some EPS-equipped vehicles, but success hinges on model-specific serviceability, access to OEM-level diagnostics and calibration, and safe mechanical execution. Verify whether the motor is sold separately, secure the correct tools and software, follow factory procedures, and be prepared to outsource programming or alignment if needed. When in doubt, consult a qualified technician—steering is not a place to compromise on safety.

Can an electric power steering motor be repaired?

If the electric motor controlling your vehicle’s power steering has failed, don’t worry, it can be repaired.

Can you replace a power steering pump by yourself?

For the mechanically inclined, replacing a power steering pump is a fairly straightforward DIY job. With the right tools and a working knowledge of how your vehicle works, it should take between one and three hours to replace the power steering pump.

How many labor hours to replace a power steering pump?

Replacing a power steering pump typically takes between one to three hours, though this can vary significantly based on your vehicle’s complexity, the pump’s accessibility, and the technician’s experience. Factors like whether the pump is on a front-wheel-drive (FWD) car or an older vehicle, if it has a serpentine or V-belt system, and the overall complexity of the engine compartment all influence the job’s duration. 
Factors affecting the time to replace a power steering pump:

• Vehicle Complexity and Design: Pumps in FWD vehicles or those with complex engine compartments, especially newer models with serpentine drives, can take longer to access and remove. 
• Technician Skill and Experience: An experienced mechanic can complete the job in under an hour, while a novice might take several hours or more. 
• Pump Accessibility: If the pump is easily accessible, the job will be quicker. In contrast, if other components must be removed to reach the pump, it will add to the total time. 
• Pump Type and Features: Some pumps have attached pulleys, while others require separate pulley replacement, which can affect the time it takes to complete the job. 
• Need for Special Tools: Some power steering pump replacements require specific tools, which can add to the job’s duration if they are not readily available. 

How much does it cost to replace a power steering motor?

A power steering motor replacement typically costs $800 to $1,300 or more, with parts often ranging from $400 to $700+ and labor costs varying significantly by location and vehicle model. The total price depends on the vehicle’s make and model, the type of part used (new or remanufactured), labor rates at your repair shop, and whether other power steering components need to be replaced simultaneously. 
Cost Breakdown Factors

• Parts: The cost of a power steering assist motor module or pump can vary widely, from a few hundred dollars for standard vehicles to over $700 for luxury or high-performance models. 
• Labor: This is a significant portion of the total cost. Labor rates differ by location and type of repair shop (dealerships typically charge more than independent mechanics), and the job’s complexity. 
• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury, high-performance, or specialty vehicles often have more expensive parts and can be more complex to work on, increasing costs. 
• Part Quality: New, original equipment (OE) parts are usually more expensive than remanufactured or aftermarket parts but often come with better warranties. 
• Additional Repairs: If other components like hoses, belts, or the power steering fluid need replacement at the same time, the overall cost will increase. 

To get an accurate estimate:

1. Identify your vehicle’s make, model, and year: to find specific part costs.
2. Contact local repair shops or dealerships: to inquire about their labor rates and get an estimate for your specific vehicle. 
3. Use online estimation tools: like those from Kelley Blue Book or RepairPal by entering your vehicle’s information.