Can you scrap an engine block?

Yes—most scrap yards will accept engine blocks as long as they’re drained of fluids and reasonably cleaned, and they’ll pay by weight based on whether the block is cast iron or cast aluminum; in 2025, typical U.S. yard prices range roughly from about $0.06–$0.12 per lb for cast iron and $0.45–$0.80 per lb for clean cast aluminum, with “dirty” (still assembled/contaminated) versions discounted. If the block is rebuildable or in demand as a core, selling it as a part often pays more than scrapping.

How scrapyards classify engine blocks

Scrap yards categorize engine blocks by metal type and cleanliness. This affects value and whether the yard will accept the item without extra processing fees. Understanding these categories helps you decide how much prep work to do before you haul it in.

• Metal type: Cast iron vs. cast aluminum. Cast iron blocks are heavier but bring a lower price per pound; cast aluminum is lighter but pays more per pound.
• Clean vs. dirty: “Clean” means no fluids and minimal attachments. For aluminum, “clean” typically requires removal of steel bolts, liners, and bearings. “Dirty” blocks include attached steel, heavy grease, or trapped fluids and are priced lower.
• Prepared vs. unprepared: Some yards require pieces under a certain size (often under 3 feet on the longest side) for higher “prepared” pricing; engine blocks often meet size rules as-is, but confirm ahead of time.
• Mixed vs. separated: If you bring a mixed load (iron block plus aluminum parts), the yard may pay the lower category unless you separate metals.

Knowing how your block will be graded lets you choose whether the extra time to “clean” or “prepare” it is worth the higher payout.

What it’s worth in 2025

Prices fluctuate by region and market. As of 2025 in the U.S., many yards pay roughly $0.06–$0.12 per lb for cast iron and about $0.45–$0.80 per lb for clean cast aluminum, with dirty aluminum (steel still attached) often in the $0.20–$0.45 per lb range. A typical cast-iron automotive block weighs 150–250 lb; cast-aluminum blocks often weigh 80–130 lb. That puts a typical scrap payout around $9–$30 for an iron block and $36–$100 for a clean aluminum block, before any deductions for dirt or attachments. Local prices vary, so call ahead or check your yard’s online price board the day you go.

How to prepare an engine block for scrap

Good preparation reduces hassles and can boost price. The basics are about safety, environmental handling, and removing anything that downgrades your load.

• Drain and capture fluids: Remove oil and coolant fully. Tilt the block and let it drip; capture waste and take it to a proper collection site (auto parts stores and municipal facilities often accept used oil and coolant).
• Strip attachments: Remove manifolds, pumps, sensors, mounts, wiring, and hoses. Aluminum blocks pay better if you remove steel bolts, liners, and bearings.
• Degrease: Scrape heavy sludge and wipe down. Excess grease can get you downgraded to “dirty.”
• Sort metals: Keep cast iron separate from aluminum. Use a magnet—cast iron is magnetic; aluminum is not. Note that steel sleeves and bolts can make an aluminum block partially magnetic in spots.
• Check size rules: If your yard wants “prepared” size, verify whether the block is acceptable as-is; most are, but industrial diesel blocks may need cutting.
• Document provenance: Some yards request ID for metal sales. If scrapping a whole vehicle, you’ll typically need a title; for a loose block, ID usually suffices.

Doing this prep can mean the difference between a low “dirty” rate and a top “clean” rate—especially with aluminum.

Legal, environmental, and safety considerations

Scrapping is straightforward, but a few rules and risks matter. Fluids are regulated; theft prevention measures at yards mean you may be asked for ID; and engine blocks are heavy, so handle them carefully.

• Fluids disposal: It’s illegal in most jurisdictions to dump oil or coolant. Use sealed containers and take fluids to an approved collection site.
• Ownership proof: Many yards require a government-issued ID for nonferrous sales and may ask basic questions about origin. Tight rules apply to catalytic converters—not directly to engine blocks—but be prepared to show receipts if asked.
• Hazards: Blocks are heavy and awkward. Use a hoist, load on a pallet, and secure with ratchet straps. Wear gloves, eye protection, and steel-toe footwear.
• Neighborhood rules: Some cities restrict outdoor storage or fluids handling; do prep work where it’s permitted and safe.

Following these precautions protects you, the yard, and the environment—and keeps your transaction smooth.

Alternatives that may pay more

If the block is usable or rare, resale can beat scrap value by a wide margin. Consider other channels before you melt it for metal.

• Sell as a rebuildable “core”: Machine shops and rebuilders often pay more than scrap, especially for popular or matching-number blocks.
• List locally: Enthusiasts may want specific castings; check part numbers and casting dates, then list on marketplace sites or forums.
• Parts harvest: Main caps, crank, rods, and hardware can add up if you have time to part out.
• Art/industrial buyers: Fabricators sometimes buy cleaned blocks for display or projects.

Even a non-rebuildable block with desirable casting numbers can surpass scrap value when sold to the right buyer.

Transporting and dropping off

Plan your trip to avoid delays and injuries. A quick call to the yard saves time and ensures you meet their rules.

• Call ahead: Confirm today’s prices, category definitions, size limits, hours, and whether they provide unloading (forklift/magnet).
• Load safely: Use an engine hoist or come-along to place the block on a pallet; strap it securely. Keep fingers clear of pinch points.
• Keep metals separate: If you’re bringing other scrap, segregate aluminum from iron to avoid downgrades.
• Bring ID and payment info: Many yards pay by check or card; some require ID for all transactions.
• Ask for a scale ticket: It shows weight, category, and rate so you can verify the payout.

A little preparation at home and clear communication with the yard usually lead to a quick weigh-in and fair payment.

Summary

You can scrap an engine block at most yards if it’s drained and reasonably clean. Expect roughly $0.06–$0.12 per lb for cast iron and $0.45–$0.80 per lb for clean cast aluminum in 2025, with “dirty” items discounted. Remove fluids and attachments, separate metals, and follow yard rules for the best price—and check resale options if the block might have core value.

How much is a motor worth for scrap?

Current Copper Scrap Prices at Rockaway Recycling

(Last Modified: September 18th, 2025, 12:22 pm)
Metal/Material	Current Price
500-750 MCM (Bare Bright Inside)	$2.85/lb
Copper Transformers	$0.21/lb
Small Electric Motors	$0.23/lb

Will a scrap yard take an engine block?

Bring your engine motor block to Ed Arnold Scrap for safe recycling and get paid for the material. For large quantities, we offer scrap metal container services.

Are old engine blocks worth anything?

if it’s just a block, no cracks or nothing majorly wrong you could get $100-200.

What metal can you not scrap?

Mercury-Containing Metals
Mercury is a highly toxic metal that is harmful to humans, animals and the environment. Often found in older thermostats, fluorescent lightbulbs and certain electrical devices, mercury-containing metals are banned from standard recycling processes due to the risk of contamination.