Can You Still Drive If the Power Steering Goes Out?

Yes — most vehicles remain steerable if power steering fails, but the wheel will feel dramatically heavier, especially at low speeds. You should slow down, keep a firm two‑handed grip, and move off the road to a safe place as soon as possible. Continuing to drive long distances is unsafe and, in hydraulic systems, can cause expensive damage; if a serpentine belt has snapped, stop immediately due to the risk of engine overheating and battery discharge.

What “power steering failure” actually means

Power steering provides assist to make turning the wheel easier. When it fails, you don’t lose the mechanical link between the steering wheel and the front wheels; you lose the assist. At higher speeds, you’ll still be able to steer with moderate effort. At parking-lot speeds, effort can be extreme, particularly in SUVs and trucks, and in vehicles with quick steering ratios and wide tires.

Two common systems: hydraulic vs. electric

Modern cars use either hydraulic power steering (HPS) or electric power steering (EPS). Each fails differently and has different risks.

The points below outline how each system behaves and what that means for drivability.

• Hydraulic (HPS): Driven by a belt‑powered pump and fluid. Failure often follows a fluid leak or a broken serpentine belt. With no fluid, the pump can overheat and destroy itself, and a broken belt may also take out the alternator and water pump, risking battery drain and engine overheating.
• Electric (EPS): Uses an electric motor and sensors. Failure usually triggers a warning light and the system reverts to “manual” steering. There is no fluid to damage, but steering effort increases. Intermittent electrical faults may cause unpredictable assist, which is another reason to stop soon.

Understanding which system you have helps you decide whether you can creep to a safe turnout or need a tow immediately.

Is it legal and safe to keep driving?

In most places, there is no law specifically banning driving without power steering, but you must not operate an unsafe vehicle. The key question is whether you can maintain safe control. The guidance below summarizes when continuing briefly might be reasonable and when it is not.

Consider these thresholds before deciding to proceed.

• Reasonable to proceed briefly: You can steer predictably, traffic is light, speeds are low, and you’re heading directly to a safe shoulder, exit, or nearby repair shop.
• Do not continue: Steering feels erratic or “notchy,” you suspect a broken serpentine belt, fluid is pouring out, there’s smoke or burning-smell from the pump, or you’re in heavy traffic requiring frequent tight turns.

If in doubt, pull over safely and call for roadside assistance; the safety margin is small, and repair costs can rise quickly if you keep driving on a failed system.

What to do immediately if the assist fails while you’re moving

Power steering failure can be startling. The steps below help you stay in control and get off the road safely.

1. Grip the wheel firmly with both hands and keep the vehicle stable in its lane.
2. Turn on hazard lights to alert other drivers.
3. Gently ease off the accelerator; avoid abrupt steering inputs.
4. Plan a path to the nearest safe shoulder or exit; favor routes with fewer tight turns.
5. Signal early, check mirrors and blind spots, and make smooth, deliberate lane changes.
6. At low speed, expect heavy effort — start turns earlier and use your body weight to help the wheel move.
7. Once stopped safely, set parking brake, turn off the engine, and assess for leaks or warning lights.

Staying calm and minimizing sharp maneuvers reduces the steering effort required and lowers risk to you and others.

Key differences in driving feel

Steering effort is not constant across speeds and situations. Knowing where it will be hardest helps you manage risk.

Here’s how effort typically changes after assist is lost.

• Highway speeds: Airflow over the tires and vehicle geometry (caster) reduce effort. Lane-keeping and gentle curves remain manageable for most drivers.
• Urban/parking speeds: Effort rises dramatically. Tight turns or parallel parking can be nearly impossible in large vehicles.
• While stopped: Turning the wheel when stationary takes the most force; if you must turn, let the vehicle roll slightly to reduce scrub.

Plan your maneuvering so you avoid near-static steering and minimize sharp, low-speed turns until the car is repaired.

Risks of continuing to drive

Driving far with failed assist invites both safety and mechanical risks. The list below outlines the most common hazards.

• Loss of control: Heavy steering can delay your response to obstacles, pedestrians, or sudden traffic changes.
• Pump damage (HPS): Running a hydraulic pump low or dry on fluid can destroy it, contaminating the system and turning a small leak into a rack-and-pinion replacement.
• Cascading failures (broken belt): A snapped serpentine belt can also stop the alternator and water pump, leading to overheating and an eventual stall.
• Intermittent EPS behavior: Electrical faults may cause assist to cut in and out unpredictably, which can upset vehicle balance mid-corner.

Because these risks escalate quickly, experts advise limiting any continued driving to the shortest, safest distance necessary to reach a secure stopping point.

How far and how fast can you go?

There is no universal distance, but safety guidance is consistent: get out of traffic and off the roadway promptly. If you must move the car, keep it brief and controlled.

Use the following practical boundaries.

• Distance: Aim for the nearest safe turnout, parking lot, or service facility within a few blocks or a single exit.
• Speed: Drive below normal traffic speed to give yourself more time, but not so slow that you create a hazard. Avoid sudden maneuvers.
• Route: Prefer straight, lightly traveled roads with gentle curves; avoid dense urban grids and tight parking areas.

If the steering feels unpredictable, or if warning lights multiply, stop sooner and call for a tow.

How to tell what failed

Before deciding next steps, simple checks can tell you whether it’s safe to inch forward or whether you should stop immediately.

Run through these quick diagnostics once you’re parked safely.

• Dashboard lights: A steering wheel icon usually indicates EPS or system faults; a battery icon suggests charging issues that may follow a broken belt.
• Under-hood inspection (engine off): Look for a loose or missing serpentine belt. If it’s gone, do not continue — risk of overheating and loss of charging is high.
• Hydraulic fluid: If equipped, check the power-steering reservoir level. Low fluid points to a leak. Do not open a hot reservoir; wait until it cools.
• Noises and smells: Groaning while turning or a burning smell can indicate a failing HPS pump; electrical burning smell may indicate EPS motor or wiring issues.
• On-wheel feel: Constantly heavy but smooth steering suggests simple loss of assist; notchiness, binding, or sudden changes in effort suggest a mechanical fault — stop.

These checks won’t replace a full diagnosis, but they help you avoid turning a manageable problem into an expensive repair.

Temporary measures (with caution)

Some drivers consider short-term fixes to move the car to a safer location. These are stopgaps with clear limits.

If you must relocate the vehicle a short distance, consider these steps.

• Top up correct hydraulic fluid (if low): Using the manufacturer-specified fluid may restore some assist briefly. If fluid drains immediately, do not drive.
• Avoid steering while stationary: Let the vehicle roll slightly before turning to reduce effort and mechanical strain.
• Two-person move: Having a spotter watch for hazards can reduce stress and mistakes when steering effort is high.

Do not use generic “stop-leak” additives as a fix; they can damage seals and complicate later repairs.

Repair expectations and costs

Costs vary with vehicle and failure mode. Knowing typical ranges helps you plan the next steps and insurance conversations.

Here are common repair scenarios and ballpark estimates (parts and labor vary by region and model).

• Serpentine belt and tensioner: $100–$350
• Hydraulic power-steering pump: $400–$1,000
• Steering rack (HPS/EPS): $900–$2,500+
• EPS motor/module or column unit: $600–$2,000+
• Fluid flush after pump failure (HPS): $100–$200, often required with component replacement

Early shutdown and towing often reduce the scope of damage and total bill.

Legal and insurance considerations

While not typically a specific traffic offense, driving with known steering defects can create liability if an incident occurs.

Keep these points in mind.

• Roadworthiness: In many jurisdictions, operating a vehicle with a known defect that affects control can lead to citations or liability in a crash.
• Inspection/MOT: If your vehicle was built with power steering, a nonfunctional system can be an inspection fail until repaired.
• Insurance: Post-incident investigations may factor in maintenance neglect; document repairs and warnings to protect yourself.

When in doubt, err on the side of towing and repair to avoid legal and financial exposure.

Prevention and early warning signs

Regular maintenance reduces the odds of sudden assist loss, especially in older hydraulic systems.

Watch for the following and act early.

• Signs of trouble: Groaning or whining when turning, intermittent EPS warning light, heavier feel in cold weather, fluid spots under the car.
• Maintenance: Inspect serpentine belts and tensioners at recommended intervals; replace aged hoses and clamps in HPS systems.
• Recalls/TSBs: Check for EPS software updates or recall campaigns that address intermittent assist issues.

Catching small issues early can avert roadside drama and major repair costs.

Important distinctions: power steering vs. steering lock

Loss of power assist is not the same as a locked steering wheel. A locked wheel is an emergency situation.

Recognize the difference quickly.

• Power assist loss: Wheel turns but feels very heavy; vehicle still steers.
• Steering lock: Wheel will not turn. This can occur if the ignition is off or a severe mechanical failure occurs. Do not attempt to continue — stop as safely as possible.

Never switch the ignition fully off while moving; some vehicles may engage the steering lock or disable power brakes after engine shutdown.

Bottom line

You can usually steer and bring the car to safety if the power steering goes out, especially at speed, but steering effort will spike at low speeds and the risks rise quickly. Stop in a safe place as soon as possible and arrange a tow, particularly if you suspect a fluid leak, burning smell, or a broken belt. Avoid long-distance driving without assist to protect your safety and your wallet.

Summary

Most vehicles remain controllable without power steering, though the wheel becomes much heavier. It’s acceptable to continue only long enough to reach a safe stopping point. Hydraulic systems risk rapid pump damage and cascading failures if a serpentine belt breaks; electric systems typically revert to manual steering but can behave unpredictably. Pull over safely, diagnose basic causes, and repair promptly to avoid safety hazards and high costs.

Is it safe to drive with faulty power steering?

The risks are significant, from more difficult steering to causing lasting damage to the pump or other components. Continuing to drive in this condition could lead to a breakdown or even an accident, especially in situations where precise steering is necessary.

How long can you drive with power steering out?

One won’t be able to cover even the first hundred miles with a dried power steering pump. Without the fluid, the power steering pump or rack can overheat leading to complete failure of the system.

How do you temporarily fix a power steering leak?

Use a Sealant: If the leak is small and coming from a seal, you can use a power steering stop leak additive. These products can sometimes swell and soften seals, temporarily sealing leaks. Tighten Connections: If any hoses or fittings are loose, tighten them. Be cautious not to over-tighten, as this can cause damage.

Is it expensive to fix power steering?

Yes, fixing a power steering issue can be expensive, with costs ranging from under $100 for a simple fluid flush to $800 or more for a new power steering pump, and even higher for complex repairs like a steering rack replacement. The final cost depends on the specific problem, your vehicle’s make and model, the parts used (OEM vs. aftermarket), and your location. 
Breakdown of Common Repairs and Costs

• Power Steering Fluid Flush: Opens in new tabIf the issue is dirty fluid, this can resolve the problem for approximately $50 to $150. 
• Power Steering Pump Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is one of the more expensive repairs, with average costs ranging from $500 to $900, though it can go higher for luxury or large vehicles. 
• Power Steering Hose Replacement: Opens in new tabA leaking hose is generally a less expensive repair, potentially costing around $60 to $150, depending on the specific hose and labor involved. 
• Steering Rack Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is a significant and expensive repair, with parts and labor for a steering rack replacement costing several hundred dollars. 

Factors Affecting Cost

• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury cars and larger vehicles typically have more expensive parts and labor. 
• Part Type: Using an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) part from your car’s manufacturer is usually more expensive than an aftermarket part. 
• Labor Costs: The hourly rate for mechanics varies by location and shop. 
• DIY vs. Professional Repair: If you are comfortable with car maintenance, you can save money by doing some repairs yourself, but it’s important to ensure you have the right tools and knowledge. 
• Additional Repairs: Power steering issues can sometimes lead to other necessary repairs, such as a wheel alignment after a steering rack replacement.