Does Camming a Car Make It Faster?

Often, yes—but only in the right circumstances. Installing a performance camshaft can increase peak horsepower and improve acceleration at higher RPM, but it may reduce low-end torque, idle quality, and everyday drivability if not matched with proper tuning and supporting modifications. Whether a car gets “faster” depends on the engine type, cam profile, and how the vehicle is used.

What “camming” means today

“Camming” refers to swapping the factory camshaft for one with different lift, duration, and lobe separation characteristics to change how long and how far the valves open. In older or pushrod engines, this is a common path to more power. In modern engines with variable valve timing (VVT), direct injection, turbocharging, and strict emissions controls, the cam is part of a bigger ecosystem that includes the ECU, valvetrain hardware, and emissions hardware.

When a camshaft upgrade makes a car faster

A camshaft can meaningfully increase peak power and reduce lap or quarter-mile times when the rest of the setup supports it. The cases below outline scenarios where gains tend to be strongest.

• The engine spends significant time at higher RPM (track days, drag racing, roll racing), where longer duration/higher lift cams add airflow.
• There’s proper ECU tuning to optimize fuel, ignition, and VVT phasing after the cam swap.
• Supporting mods (headers/exhaust, intake, higher-flow heads, adequate fuel system) prevent airflow or fueling from becoming the new bottleneck.
• Compression ratio and gearing/converter are matched to the new powerband.
• The platform responds well to cams (e.g., GM LS/LT V8s, Ford modular/Coyote, certain Honda K-series, many small-blocks).

In these conditions, a camshaft can shift and enlarge the engine’s effective powerband, translating to tangible on-road or on-track speed improvements.

When it might not help—or can make it slower

A mismatched cam can hurt drivability and real-world performance, especially in street use. These pitfalls are common and avoidable with proper planning.

• Daily driving below 3,000 RPM: Aggressive duration/overlap can reduce low-end torque, making the car feel lazier off the line.
• No tune or poor tune: Check-engine lights, unstable idle, and lost power are common without calibration.
• Stock exhaust and intake: Airflow restrictions can negate gains and produce a louder, not faster, car.
• Turbo engines targeting quick spool: Excessive overlap can delay spool and hurt midrange; many turbo cars gain more from ECU tuning and boost control first.
• Emissions testing: Many aftermarket cams are not emissions-legal; altered overlap can trigger misfire/EVAP readiness issues.
• Automatic transmissions with stock converters: A higher-stall converter is often needed to access the new powerband.

In these scenarios, the change may sound dramatic but fail to improve elapsed times—or even make the car slower in typical street conditions.

Realistic performance gains

Gains vary widely by platform, cam profile, and supporting mods, but some ballpark figures help set expectations for naturally aspirated (NA) and boosted engines.

• GM LS-family V8 (NA): Common street/strip cams with headers and a tune often add 40–80 hp at the crank; well-matched builds can improve quarter-mile times by 0.2–0.5 seconds.
• Ford Coyote 5.0 (NA): Cams plus intake/exhaust and tune can net 20–50 hp, with track-focused setups seeing more at high RPM.
• Honda K-series (NA): Performance cams with intake/exhaust/tune typically add 15–30 hp at the wheels; VTEC engagement and cam phasing are key.
• Subaru EJ/FA and similar: Cams can help top end, but gains depend on turbo size and headwork; spool characteristics may change.
• Turbo engines: Cam gains are nuanced—profiles designed for boost can widen the curve at higher flow, but many owners see larger bang-for-buck from ECU tuning and turbo upgrades before cams.

Beyond peak numbers, focus on area under the curve—the shape of the torque/hp curve matters more than the highest point for real-world quickness.

Supporting modifications and tuning

To turn camshaft potential into measurable speed, the ecosystem around the engine must be upgraded and calibrated accordingly.

• ECU calibration: Mandatory for fueling, ignition, idle control, and VVT phasing (if equipped).
• Valvetrain: Springs matched to lift and RPM, retainers, pushrods, phaser limiters/lockouts (for VVT), and sometimes lifters (AFM/MDS deletes on GM/Hemi).
• Airflow: Long-tube headers or high-flow manifolds, intake, ported heads or manifolds where appropriate.
• Fueling: Higher-flow injectors/pumps if duty cycle is high after the swap.
• Driveline: Higher-stall converter for automatics, appropriate gearing, clutch rated for added torque.
• Cooling and lubrication: Healthy cooling system; for flat-tappet cams, proper break-in oil with adequate ZDDP.

These components ensure the engine can safely rev where the new cam makes power and that the drivetrain can apply it efficiently.

Costs and complexity

Budget and wrenching complexity vary by platform. Pushrod V8s are generally simpler than dual-overhead-cam engines with complex timing systems.

• Parts: $400–$1,200 for the cam; $300–$1,000 for springs/retainers/pushrods; $200–$600 for gaskets/fluids; $300–$1,200 for phaser kits or AFM/MDS delete parts (platform-dependent).
• Labor: 8–20+ hours depending on engine layout; DOHC/VVT engines can be significantly more involved.
• Tuning: $400–$1,000 for dyno time and calibration; more if VVT mapping is extensive.
• Ancillaries: Torque converter ($800–$1,500), clutch ($600–$1,500), and potential exhaust upgrades.

Total project costs routinely land between $1,500 and $5,000+ before any cylinder head work, making planning and goal-setting essential.

Streetability, reliability, and legal considerations

Beyond speed, consider how a cam changes day-to-day behavior and compliance with local laws.

• Idle quality and vacuum: Big-overlap cams lope but reduce manifold vacuum—affecting power brakes and HVAC controls.
• Emissions legality: Look for CARB EO numbers where required; many cams are “for off-road use only.”
• OBD-II readiness: Misfire and catalyst monitors can be tricky with aggressive overlap on modern ECUs.
• Warranty and longevity: Cam swaps can void powertrain warranties; improper spring pressures or coil bind risk valvetrain failure.
• Noise: Increased valvetrain noise and exhaust volume may exceed local limits.

Choosing a mild, emissions-compliant profile and working with an experienced tuner helps preserve drivability and legal compliance.

How to choose the right cam

Selection is about matching the cam’s characteristics to your engine, intended use, and supporting hardware.

1. Define the goal: Street torque, track top-end, or forced-induction synergy.
2. Audit the combo: Compression ratio, head flow, intake/exhaust, converter/gearing, and fuel system capacity.
3. Study the cam card: Compare intake/exhaust duration, lift, and lobe separation angle (LSA) to your target RPM band.
4. Consider VVT strategy: Decide on phaser limiters/lockouts and how phasing will be tuned across the rev range.
5. Verify clearances: Piston-to-valve, coil bind, retainer-to-seal; set correct spring pressures.
6. Plan the tune: Book dyno time; ensure wideband and knock control are functioning.
7. Break-in properly: Especially for flat-tappet cams—use break-in lube and oil with adequate ZDDP, follow prescribed RPM procedure.
8. Test and iterate: Log data, check fuel trims and knock, and refine the calibration.

Taking a systems approach prevents costly mistakes and maximizes the payoff from the cam upgrade.

Bottom line

A camshaft can absolutely make a car faster—particularly at high RPM and in motorsport contexts—if it’s chosen for the application and supported by tuning and complementary hardware. For many modern, street-driven or turbocharged cars, ECU tuning and bolt-ons may deliver more cost-effective gains before a cam swap makes sense.

Summary

Camming can increase peak horsepower and improve acceleration, but it’s not a magic bolt-on. The right cam, proper tune, and supporting mods can deliver substantial gains; the wrong combination can hurt low-end torque, drivability, and legal compliance. Evaluate your use case, plan the supporting package, and work with experienced builders and tuners to ensure the upgrade actually makes the car faster where it counts.