How Burglars Open Locked Doors—and How to Shut Them Out

Burglars typically get past “locked” doors by exploiting the weakest link: they force flimsy frames and strike plates, bypass latch-only locks, manipulate low-security cylinders, use stolen or duplicated keys, or rely on social engineering—usually choosing the fastest, quietest method available. In practice, many intrusions also happen through doors that were inadvertently left unlocked. Understanding these patterns helps you harden entry points without turning your home into a fortress.

The opportunist’s playbook: speed, stealth, and the path of least resistance

Most residential burglars are not safecrackers; they’re opportunists. They gravitate to entry methods that minimize time on scene and noise—often under a minute at the door—and abandon attempts if they encounter solid resistance. Police and locksmiths commonly report that poor installation, weak hardware, and predictable routines matter more to outcomes than exotic tools. Neighborhood context, visibility, dogs, and simple signs of occupancy also shape decisions.

Common ways burglars get past a “locked” door

The points below summarize broad categories seen by law enforcement, insurers, and security professionals. They are described at a high level for awareness and prevention, not as instructions.

• Forced entry against weak construction: Kicks or prying target the doorjamb, strike plate, or adjacent frame—not the lock cylinder—because these parts often fail first, especially when installed with short screws or on hollow-core doors.
• Bypassing latch-only knobs: Spring-latch handles without a separate deadbolt can sometimes be slipped or manipulated; they’re also more vulnerable to simple prying that cams the latch back.
• Manipulating low-security locks: Inexpensive cylinders and worn hardware are easier to defeat with covert manipulation; higher-grade cylinders and proper installation sharply reduce this risk.
• Exploiting hinges, sidelights, or mail slots: Exposed weaknesses (e.g., reachable interior thumb-turns near glass) can allow reach-through or hinge attacks if there are no guards or security pins.
• Key compromise: Keys left under mats, loaned to contractors and not re-keyed, or copied without control, as well as stolen bags or fobs, are common pathways.
• Social engineering and tailgating: In multi-unit buildings, intruders may follow residents through controlled doors or pose as delivery or maintenance personnel to be buzzed in.
• Smart lock weaknesses: Predictable PINs, shared codes, unpatched firmware, and risky auto-unlock features can be abused if digital hygiene is lax.
• Secondary doors and adjoining entries: Garage-to-house doors, sliding glass doors, and side or back entries are often less reinforced and less visible, making them favored targets.

In nearly all of these scenarios, burglars choose doors or techniques that promise quick entry with minimal commotion; robust hardware, visible deterrents, and signs of occupancy tend to push them elsewhere.

Factors that increase your risk

Certain building and behavioral patterns reliably make doors more vulnerable. Reviewing the list below can help you prioritize fixes with the greatest impact.

• Weak frames and strikes: Short screws, thin strike plates, and decayed jambs that shear under load.
• Hollow-core exterior doors or poorly fitted slabs that flex and delaminate.
• Latch-only entry sets with no separate deadbolt, or deadbolts with short throws.
• Glass within arm’s reach of an interior thumb-turn, or large sidelights without reinforcement.
• Outward signs of vacancy: dark entries, piled-up mail, packages, or blinds that never change.
• Predictable routines and oversharing travel plans publicly on social media.
• Uncontrolled keys or widely shared door codes (cleaners, dog walkers, past tenants) not reset.
• Unsecured sliding doors without anti-lift blocks or auxiliary bars.

Addressing even a few of these items significantly raises the effort and noise required for entry, which is often enough to deter an opportunistic intruder.

How to harden doors and reduce opportunity

The following measures are widely recommended by crime-prevention officers, locksmith associations, and insurers for a strong risk-reduction return per dollar and effort.

• Upgrade the door and frame: Use a solid-core or metal-clad exterior door and ensure the frame is sound; consider door-and-jamb reinforcement kits.
• Reinforce the strike: Install a heavy-duty strike plate with 3-inch screws that bite into wall framing, not just the jamb.
• Use a quality deadbolt: Choose a well-rated deadbolt with at least a 1-inch throw and a reinforced cylinder guard; avoid relying on knob-latches alone.
• Protect glass and reach points: Add security film to sidelights, move the thumb-turn out of reach if possible, or use a double-cylinder deadbolt where code allows and life-safety risks are addressed.
• Add latch and hinge protection: Fit latch guards (especially on outward-opening doors) and use hinges with security studs or non-removable pins.
• Control keys and codes: Re-key when moving in or after contractor work, avoid hiding spare keys outdoors, and rotate smart-lock PINs; use unique, non-obvious codes.
• Mind smart-lock hygiene: Keep firmware updated, disable auto-unlock features you don’t need, and restrict integrations to trusted apps; enable logs and alerts.
• Secure secondary entries: Fit sliding doors with anti-lift pins and blocking bars, and equip garage-to-house doors with deadbolts like any exterior door.
• Layer visible deterrents: Motion lighting, doorbell cameras, and alarm signage increase perceived risk for intruders.
• Amplify “occupied” signals: Timers, consistent landscaping, and neighbor watchfulness help deter casing.

No single measure is foolproof, but layered defenses—strong hardware, smart habits, and visibility—force would-be intruders to spend more time and make more noise, which is precisely what they try to avoid.

What not to rely on

Some common features offer little real resistance and can create a false sense of security.

• Door chains and swing-bar latches: These light-duty restrictors are easily defeated and should not substitute for a deadbolt.
• Cheap keypad locks with simple or shared codes: Overused PINs and visible smudges undermine the benefit.
• Hidden outdoor keys: Common hide spots are well known; opt for controlled key sharing or a lockbox with proper security if necessary.

Use these only as supplements, not as primary security controls.

If a break-in occurs

Responding safely and preserving evidence matters for both your security and any investigation.

• Do not enter if you suspect someone is inside; call police and wait in a safe place.
• Avoid touching entry points; document damage with photos once the scene is cleared.
• Notify neighbors, property managers, and your insurer promptly.
• Repair and upgrade the compromised entry as soon as possible and review other doors for similar weaknesses.

Follow-up improvements—especially around the method used for entry—can reduce the chance of a repeat incident.

Legal and ethical note

This overview is intended to improve safety and awareness, not to instruct illegal activity. Techniques are discussed in general terms so you can identify vulnerabilities and choose appropriate protective measures.

Summary

Burglars usually defeat “locked” doors by attacking weak frames and latches, leveraging key or code lapses, or exploiting overlooked secondary entries—favoring fast, quiet methods over elaborate techniques. Strengthening door construction and strikes, using quality deadbolts, controlling keys and codes, securing glass and sliders, and adding visible deterrents create layered friction that deters opportunists and dramatically reduces risk.

Can burglars open a locked door?

Burglars can alter the lock’s components without a key to access your door lock. They accomplish this by inserting a lock pick into the lock’s keyhole. The burglars then use the lock pick to adjust the pins inside the lock’s cylinder until they line up.

What is the best door lock to prevent break ins?

Types of Burglarproof Locks

• Deadbolts. Deadbolts are one of the most popular and effective types of burglarproof locks.
• Smart Locks.
• Keyless Entry Systems.
• Hardened Steel Construction.
• Extended Bolt Length.
• Pick-Resistant Design.
• Solid Wood Doors.
• Glass-Paneled Doors.

What do robbers use to open doors?

Criminals usually use a normal screwdriver, which anyone can always carry with them. With this simple tool, unsecured doors and windows can be opened within a very short time, even by opportunist thieves – without making much noise and almost without a trace. Quickly in, quickly out and completely inconspicuous.

What houses do burglars avoid?

Burglars tend to avoid houses that appear occupied, well-protected, and difficult to enter, so they prefer homes with visible security systems, lights on, cars in the driveway, and clear sightlines from the street. Homes on dead-end streets or in cul-de-sacs, which allow neighbors to see strangers, are also less appealing targets. In contrast, homes with overgrown bushes, dark areas, poor lighting, or hidden entry points are more attractive to burglars.
 
Signs of an Occupied & Secured Home

• Visible Security Systems: Security cameras and visible alarm systems can deter burglars. 
• Lights On: Lights on at night, either inside or outside, create the impression that someone is home and increase visibility. 
• Cars in the Driveway: A car in the driveway suggests someone is home, even during the day when burglaries are common. 
• Well-Maintained Yard: Overgrown shrubs and bushes can provide cover for burglars, so they should be trimmed back to maintain clear visibility of windows and doors. 
• Secure Doors and Windows: Strong, reinforced doors and high-quality locks make a house harder to break into. 
• Working Doggy Doors: An open doggy door or a clearly visible doggy door makes a house easy to enter and is a deterrent. 
• Alert Neighbors: Homes in a neighborhood setting, especially on dead-end streets or cul-de-sacs, offer more eyes to spot strangers. 

Signs of an Easy Target

• Unsecured Entry Points: Unlocked windows and doors, or open garage doors, signal an easy opportunity for entry. 
• Lack of Security Measures: A home with no cameras, alarm systems, or visible security features is seen as a low-risk target. 
• Hidden Keys: Hiding keys under doormats or rocks makes them easy to find, increasing the ease of entry. 
• Obscured Views: High hedges, dense bushes, or fences that hide entry points provide cover for burglars. 
• Poor Exterior Lighting: Dark yards and poorly lit properties offer cover and allow burglars to operate without being seen.