How to Make Your Car a Little Higher

You can raise your car slightly by fitting marginally taller tires, installing strut or spring spacers (10–25 mm), using adjustable coilovers, correcting sag with new springs, or applying a mild suspension lift. For most modern vehicles, plan a wheel alignment afterward and, if equipped with driver-assistance systems, recalibrate cameras/radar. Small gains of 0.5–2.0 inches are generally achievable with modest cost and minimal impact when done properly.

Clarify Your Goal and How Much Height You Need

Before modifying anything, decide whether you need a small bump for driveway/curb clearance, better approach angles for light trails, or load-leveling when carrying cargo. Your goal determines the best method, the budget, and how much you can safely raise without compromising handling, warranty, or sensor accuracy.

Practical Ways to Add 0.5–2 Inches of Height

The options below range from simple maintenance fixes to bolt-on parts. Choose the approach that matches your vehicle’s suspension type, intended use, and budget.

• Replace worn springs: Restores original ride height if your car sags with age or load. Often yields 0.25–0.75 inch “gain” versus the current sag without altering geometry.
• Slightly taller tires: A 1-inch increase in overall tire diameter raises ground clearance by ~0.5 inch. Keep within wheel-well and steering-clearance limits; expect a proportional speedometer/odometer change and possible need to reprogram tire size.
• Strut top spacers (MacPherson strut cars/CUVs): Bolt-on plates above the front (and sometimes rear) struts add 10–30 mm of lift while retaining stock springs and dampers. Popular for unibody crossovers.
• Spring spacers (coil spring isolators): Polyurethane or rubber spacers placed on or in the spring can add 10–20 mm. Best for small corrections or leveling; avoid stacking.
• Adjustable coilovers: Height-adjustable coilovers let you raise 10–40 mm while tuning damping. Costlier but more precise than spacers; alignment required.
• Torsion bar adjustment (some trucks/SUVs): A small “crank” can add ~0.5–1 inch, but watch CV angles and ride quality. Not common on modern cars.
• Rear add-a-leaf or small lift blocks (leaf-spring rears): Useful for trucks/vans to counter squat. Not applicable to most cars; never use blocks on a front axle.
• Air-assist or load-leveling bags: Help maintain height under load; modest static lift when unladen. Great for towing but not a primary lift method.
• Factory air suspension settings: If equipped, a “Raised” or “Off-road” mode may provide temporary extra clearance without hardware changes.
• Body lift kits (body-on-frame only): Adds pucks between body and frame for 1–2 inches without altering suspension. Not applicable to unibody cars.

For most car owners seeking a subtle lift, the least intrusive routes are restoring ride height, slightly taller tires, or modest strut/spring spacers with a follow-up alignment.

What to Check Before You Lift

Small changes can create unintended issues if you don’t verify clearances, geometry, and systems that rely on precise ride height.

• Clearance at full lock and full compression: Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and compress the suspension (driveways, speed bumps) to ensure no rubbing on liners, fenders, or strut perches.
• Alignment and tire wear: Any suspension change needs front-end alignment; many cars also benefit from rear alignment. Expect camber/caster/toe shifts even with spacers.
• Shock/strut travel: Ensure you’re not topping out dampers; consider extended-bump-stop or matched-length dampers for larger lifts.
• CV joints and ball joints (FWD/AWD): Steeper angles increase wear; keep lifts conservative on independent suspension.
• Brake lines and ABS/ride-height sensor wiring: Check slack at full droop; extend brackets if needed.
• ADAS recalibration: Radar, cameras, and lidar may require recalibration if ride height changes beyond OEM tolerances. Headlights will likely need aim adjustment.
• Spare tire well and jack: Confirm your spare and jack still work with new tire size.
• Garage and rack clearance: A small lift plus roof racks may exceed garage doors or car park limits.

Verifying these items beforehand helps avoid surprises, uneven tire wear, or safety-system faults after the lift.

Typical Costs and Time

Budget varies widely by method and vehicle. Here are common ranges for a mild lift.

• Slight tire upsizing: $600–$1,200 for a set; add $80–$150 for reprogramming TPMS/speedometer where supported.
• Strut or spring spacers: $100–$400 in parts; $200–$600 labor; $100–$200 alignment.
• Adjustable coilovers: $800–$2,500 parts; $400–$1,000 install and setup; alignment included or extra.
• Replace worn springs/struts: $500–$1,500 depending on parts quality and vehicle.
• ADAS and headlight recalibration: $150–$600 depending on system complexity and region.

Most subtle lifts can be completed in a day with alignment the same or next day, and sensor/headlight checks following.

A Simple Step-by-Step Plan for a Subtle Lift

If you want around 0.5–1.5 inches without major trade-offs, follow this sequence.

1. Measure baseline: Note current fender-to-hub distance and ground clearance at the lowest point.
2. Restore ride height: Replace worn springs/struts if sagging; this often yields the first gains.
3. Choose tire size conservatively: Target +1 inch overall diameter max unless the vehicle community confirms larger fits. Verify load rating.
4. Add modest spacers if still needed: 10–20 mm strut/spring spacers are common; avoid stacking or extreme angles.
5. Install, then align: Perform a four-wheel alignment to factory specs or slightly more neutral settings if recommended by a reputable shop.
6. Recalibrate systems: Adjust headlights and recalibrate ADAS if specified by the manufacturer after ride-height changes.
7. Road test under load: Check for rub at full lock, over bumps, and with passengers/cargo. Re-torque fasteners after 50–100 miles.

This approach minimizes risk while delivering noticeable clearance improvements for daily use.

Trade-offs and Risks

Any lift, even small, can change how your car behaves. Know the compromises before you commit.

• Handling and braking: Higher center of gravity and taller sidewalls can soften response and lengthen stopping distances.
• Fuel economy and performance: Taller/heavier tires and altered aerodynamics may reduce mpg and acceleration.
• Driveline and joint wear: Increased angles can accelerate wear on CVs and ball joints if lift is aggressive.
• Warranty and insurance: In many regions (e.g., US), the Magnuson–Moss Act limits blanket denials, but mods that cause a failure can affect coverage. Inform your insurer of material changes.
• Legal/inspection compliance: Some jurisdictions restrict lift amounts or require headlight aim checks after changes.

Keeping lifts modest and professionally aligned mitigates most downsides while preserving everyday drivability.

Smart Alternatives If You Only Need Occasional Clearance

If you mainly scrape on driveways or speed bumps, these alternatives may solve the issue without a lift.

• Skid plates or abrasion guards: Protect vulnerable oil pans and battery packs (especially on EVs) without changing height.
• Approach aids: Remove or trim low front air dams where legal; use an angled approach to steep driveways.
• Wheel and tire strategy: Move to a slightly taller aspect ratio tire on appropriately sized wheels while maintaining close-to-stock diameter if speedometer precision is critical.
• Load management: Redistribute cargo or use rear air-assist to avoid squat when towing or hauling.

These measures can reduce scraping and damage risk with fewer trade-offs than a permanent lift.

Vehicle-Specific Notes

Different platforms respond differently to lift methods; choose parts designed for your suspension layout.

• MacPherson strut cars/CUVs: Strut top spacers are the most common mild-lift solution; ensure camber correction is available.
• Multi-link independent rears: Verify eccentric bolts or camber arms can bring alignment back to spec after lifting.
• EVs/hybrids: Mind battery-pack clearance, underbody aero panels, and weight; ADAS recalibration is often mandatory.
• Body-on-frame trucks/SUVs: Body lifts and small suspension lifts are common, but still check driveshaft and brake-line slack.

Consult platform-specific forums and reputable manufacturers for proven fitments and any required supporting parts.

When to Use a Professional

While DIY is possible for some methods, professional help reduces risk and protects sensitive systems.

• If your car has active safety systems (ACC, lane keep, auto high-beam), plan on professional calibration.
• When modifying beyond tires or minor spacers, use a shop experienced with your platform for install and alignment.
• If you notice post-lift vibrations, ABS faults, tire rub, or uneven wear, have a specialist inspect immediately.

A qualified shop can confirm parts compatibility, perform proper torque procedures, and document settings for future service.

Summary

To make your car a little higher, start with simple, low-risk steps: restore sagging suspension, consider slightly taller tires, and, if needed, add modest strut or spring spacers—followed by alignment and headlight/ADAS checks. Keep lifts conservative (0.5–1.5 inches) to preserve handling, components, and compliance. With careful planning and quality parts, you can gain practical clearance for everyday driving without sacrificing safety or reliability.

How much does it cost to make your car higher?

The cost of a basic truck lift kit typically ranges from $400 to $3,000, depending on the brand and type of lift. Are there additional expenses after installing a lift kit? Yes, additional expenses may include alignment adjustments, upgraded tires, and potential modifications to the drivetrain or suspension components.

How do you raise a car cheaply?

Air Lifting Bag, or Air Jack
Basically, you place a flat, deflated bag under a tire and then pump it full of air. As it inflates and rises it brings the car up with it – it’s ingenious in its simplicity, and it can offer a great way to elevate a car for folks on a budget.

What to do if your car is too low?

An (air) suspension system could well be the solution! If your vehicle is too low, this indicates that your vehicle has an (overly) heavy load. As a result, there is little or no spring travel.

How do I raise my car’s height?

Raising the body of a truck or car is easy with blocks made of rubber or polyurethane — they build height and create lift, creating space between the frame and body. The suspension system remains in the same spot, while the body itself is lifted above the frame and the blocks are used to keep it in place.