Regaining Power Steering: What to Do and How to Fix the Cause
If your steering suddenly feels heavy, safely pull over, keep the engine running, and determine whether you have hydraulic or electric power steering; top up fluid and look for leaks on hydraulic systems, or check battery/charging health, fuses, and try an ignition cycle on electric systems. If assist doesn’t return, do not continue driving—have the vehicle towed to avoid further damage and safety risks. Below is a clear guide to handle the immediate situation, diagnose the cause, and get your power steering back.
Contents
- Immediate actions if steering assist fails while driving
- Identify your system: Hydraulic or Electric
- Quick checks you can do roadside
- Diagnostic steps at home or at a shop
- When it’s safe to drive versus tow
- Common causes and typical repair costs (USD)
- Preventive measures to avoid future loss of assist
- Summary
Immediate actions if steering assist fails while driving
Loss of power assist can be startling, but you still can steer—just with much more effort, especially at low speeds. Take the following steps to maintain control and reduce risk while you get to a safe place.
- Keep a firm grip on the wheel and anticipate heavier effort, particularly during low-speed turns.
- Switch on hazard lights, reduce speed smoothly, and avoid abrupt steering inputs.
- Do not turn the engine off while moving; if the engine stalls, shift to Neutral and restart when safe.
- Pull over in a safe area; avoid stopping in traffic lanes or on blind curves.
- Once parked, try cycling the ignition off and back on to reset electric power steering (EPS) if applicable.
- If you see fluid leaking, smell burning rubber, or a battery/steering warning light is on, plan for a tow.
These steps help you stabilize the situation. If steering remains very heavy or a warning light persists after stopping, it’s safer to tow than to risk a drive.
Identify your system: Hydraulic or Electric
Knowing which type of power steering you have narrows the likely cause and the quickest path to a fix. Most newer vehicles (especially mid-2010s and later) use EPS, while many older vehicles use hydraulic assist.
- Hydraulic: Has a power steering fluid reservoir, a belt-driven pump, hoses/lines, and can make a whining/groaning sound when fluid is low.
- Electric (EPS): No fluid reservoir or hydraulic pump; often shows a steering wheel/EPS warning light if there’s a fault; issues may correlate with weak battery or alternator output.
- Hydraulic-Electric hybrids (less common): Electric pump with fluid and lines; combines elements of both systems.
If you can’t immediately tell, look for a fluid reservoir labeled “Power Steering.” If none is present and you see an EPS light, you likely have an electric system.
Quick checks you can do roadside
With the vehicle parked safely, a few simple checks can sometimes restore assist or at least prevent additional damage until you reach a shop.
- Dashboard lights: Note battery/charging and steering warning indicators; they guide next steps.
- Drive belt: Check that the serpentine belt is present, not shredded, and has proper tension (hydraulic systems rely on this for pump drive).
- Fluid level (hydraulic): Verify the correct fluid type in the reservoir and top up to the marked level; watch for immediate leaks.
- Leaks: Look under the car for reddish/amber fluid; check hoses, pump area, and rack boots.
- Electrical power (EPS): If you have a voltmeter/OBD app, confirm the battery is ~12.4–12.7 V engine off and alternator output is ~14.0–14.8 V engine running.
- Fuses/relays: Inspect the EPS or power steering fuse/relay; replace if blown and investigate why.
- Ignition cycle: After stopping, turn the car off, wait 30 seconds, and restart; EPS faults sometimes clear temporarily.
If assist returns, drive gently to a shop; if not, arranging a tow prevents further damage and keeps you safe.
Diagnostic steps at home or at a shop
Once out of immediate danger, targeted diagnostics will pinpoint the underlying fault and the correct repair path.
Hydraulic power steering: What to inspect and fix
Hydraulic systems depend on fluid pressure from a belt-driven pump. Leaks, low fluid, air in the system, or belt issues are the most common culprits.
- Inspect for leaks at hoses/lines, pump seals, reservoir, and steering rack (look for wet rack boots).
- Confirm the correct fluid spec; flush contaminated or wrong fluid (ATF vs. PS fluid varies by make).
- Check belt and tensioner condition and pulley alignment; replace worn components.
- Bleed the system: With wheels off the ground (ideal), fill to proper level, start engine, slowly turn wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times without holding at the stops; recheck fluid and foaming.
- Pressure test the pump and rack (shop procedure) if assist is still weak or noisy.
- Replace failed components (hose, pump, rack). Use new crush washers/O-rings; torque to spec.
- Get a wheel alignment after rack replacement.
Most hydraulic issues trace back to leaks or belt slippage. Proper bleeding and correct fluid often restore assist if the pump and rack are healthy.
Electric power steering (EPS): What to inspect and fix
EPS relies on stable electrical power and sensor data. Low voltage, bad grounds, or sensor/module faults commonly cause intermittent or total loss of assist.
- Scan for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs): Steering (C-codes) or network (U-codes) point to sensors, the EPS motor/module, or CAN faults.
- Test the 12V system: Load-test the battery; measure alternator output and check grounds; repair corroded or loose connections.
- Check EPS fuses/relays and wiring harnesses around the column or steering rack for damage or water intrusion.
- Calibrate the steering angle sensor (via scan tool) after battery replacement, alignment, or module work.
- Update software if a TSB or calibration exists for your model; reprogramming can resolve known EPS issues.
- Evaluate torque/position sensors and the column/rack motor; replace the faulty component or entire unit if required.
- Perform post-repair programming/coding as specified by the manufacturer.
EPS faults that vanish after a restart often indicate voltage instability or a sensor/module glitch; persistent faults usually require scan-tool diagnosis and, sometimes, software updates or component replacement.
When it’s safe to drive versus tow
Driving without assist increases stopping distance and turning effort, especially at low speeds and in emergencies. Use these guidelines to decide.
- Okay to drive carefully to a shop: Assist returns after a restart or top-up; no leaks, burning smells, or warning lights remain; steering effort is normal.
- Tow it: Active fluid leak, missing/damaged belt, battery/alternator failure (battery light on), EPS/steering warning stays on, smoke/burning rubber smell, or steering effort is extreme.
When in doubt, tow. It protects you and prevents damage to the pump, belt system, or EPS components.
Common causes and typical repair costs (USD)
Costs vary by vehicle, region, and parts brand. The ranges below reflect typical 2025 market pricing for parts and labor.
- Fluid top-up/bleed: $10–$150
- Hose/line replacement: $150–$450
- Serpentine belt/tensioner: $100–$400
- Hydraulic pump replacement: $300–$900
- Steering rack (hydraulic): $800–$2,500; alignment extra $100–$200
- Battery replacement: $120–$300; alternator: $400–$900
- EPS fuse/relay/wiring repair: $50–$300
- Steering angle sensor calibration: $80–$200
- EPS motor/module/column: $700–$2,000+ (often requires programming)
A proper diagnosis usually saves money by targeting the real fault rather than replacing parts by guesswork.
Preventive measures to avoid future loss of assist
Routine checks catch early warning signs and extend steering system life, whether you have hydraulic or electric assist.
- Inspect belts, hoses, and fluid levels monthly (hydraulic systems); use only the specified fluid.
- Flush steering fluid per the maintenance schedule or at ~60,000–100,000 miles if recommended.
- Keep the battery and charging system healthy; replace weak batteries promptly (critical for EPS).
- Avoid holding the wheel at full lock for more than a second; it stresses pumps and motors.
- Fix small leaks early to prevent pump/rack damage and sudden loss of assist.
- Check for recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) related to steering on your specific model.
Simple attention to fluids and electrical health dramatically lowers the odds of sudden assist failure.
Summary
To regain power steering: stabilize the situation, identify your system, and perform quick checks—fluid and belt for hydraulic, battery/charging and fuses for EPS. If assist doesn’t return or a warning persists, tow the vehicle and pursue targeted diagnostics: bleed and inspect for leaks/belt issues on hydraulic setups, or scan for codes, verify voltage, and calibrate/update on EPS. Most problems trace to leaks, low fluid, belt or alternator trouble, or an EPS sensor/module fault—issues that can be caught early with routine checks and prompt repairs.
Can you still drive if power steering goes out?
Yes, you can typically drive a vehicle if the power steering goes out, but it will require significantly more physical effort to steer, especially at low speeds or when parking. Driving without power steering is generally safe for short distances to a mechanic if you are careful, but it can be dangerous if you can’t steer quickly enough in an emergency. You should drive cautiously, using both hands on the wheel, and get the system repaired as soon as possible to avoid further damage to the power steering pump and other components.
What happens when power steering fails?
- Heavier Steering: The system provides hydraulic assistance, so without it, turning the wheel becomes much harder.
- Increased Difficulty at Low Speeds: You’ll find it especially challenging to turn the wheel when the car is stopped or moving slowly.
- Potential for Damage: Driving without fluid can cause the pump to overheat and fail, and the belt that powers the pump can snap.
- Danger in Emergencies: It can be difficult to react quickly enough during an emergency, making it more likely to cause an accident.
What to do if your power steering fails:
- Park Safely: Pull over to a safe location on the side of the road as soon as possible.
- Assess the Steering: Turn the wheel to see how much effort it takes.
- Check Fluid (if applicable): For hydraulic systems, check if the power steering fluid is low and add the correct type if needed.
- Drive Cautiously: If it’s manageable, drive slowly and carefully to the nearest mechanic.
- Use Both Hands: Grip the steering wheel firmly with both hands to maintain control.
- Avoid Sharp Turns: Be prepared for the increased effort needed for sharp or sudden turns.
- Call a Tow Truck: If you feel you cannot accurately steer the vehicle, it’s safer to call for a tow truck.
Get it fixed:
- Repair ASAP: Get your vehicle to a qualified mechanic as soon as possible to prevent further damage to the system.
- Consult a Professional: A mechanic can diagnose the issue and provide an accurate estimate for repairs.
How expensive is it to fix power steering?
Fixing power steering varies widely, but you could spend $10–$20 for just a fluid top-off, while a pump replacement typically costs $500–$900. More involved repairs, like replacing the steering rack, can cost $500 to over $2,200, depending on the vehicle, the parts used (new vs. rebuilt), and whether you do it yourself or use a professional shop.
Breakdown of Costs
- Fluid Top-Off: Opens in new tabFor issues that are just low on fluid, adding fluid can be a quick and inexpensive fix.
- Power Steering Flush: Opens in new tabA fluid flush and replacement is another affordable option, costing around $50–$150.
- Hose Repair: Opens in new tabA leaking hose can be relatively inexpensive, ranging from $60–$150 for the parts and labor, especially if it’s a simpler hose.
- Power Steering Pump Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is a more significant cost, usually between $500–$900, depending on the vehicle and parts.
- Steering Rack Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is one of the most expensive power steering repairs, with costs reaching over $2,200 in some cases.
Factors Influencing Cost
- Vehicle Type: Luxury or large vehicles may have more expensive parts and installation compared to mainstream models.
- Parts Type: New OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts are generally more expensive than aftermarket or rebuilt options.
- DIY vs. Professional Repair: Doing the repair yourself can save significantly on labor, but complex jobs are best left to mechanics to ensure accuracy.
- Labor Costs: Rates vary depending on the shop and location, with dealerships often charging more than independent mechanics.
- Additional Issues: Replacing a component might reveal other worn-out parts, increasing the total cost.
How to get power steering working again?
Flush the power steering reservoir thoroughly and refill with manufacturer-recommended fluid. Check the power steering pump condition; a worn pump may need replacement. Bleed the system to remove air pockets, ensuring proper hydraulic pressure and restoring steering assist functionality.
Why is my power steering suddenly lost?
If your power steering suddenly stopped working, it’s likely due to a critical component failure like a broken serpentine belt, a leaking fluid system, a failing pump, or a problem in an electric system. First, check for obvious signs of a broken or slipping belt and inspect the power steering fluid level. Since a suddenly failed system can make driving dangerous, pull over safely and have the vehicle towed to a mechanic for professional diagnosis and repair.
What to Check (If Safe)
- Check the Belt: Look under the hood for the serpentine belt that drives the power steering pump. If it’s broken, frayed, or completely gone, the pump will stop working immediately.
- Check the Fluid Level: If your car has hydraulic power steering, locate the power steering reservoir and check the fluid level. Low fluid can be a sign of a leak.
- Listen for Noises: If the pump is struggling or there’s air in the system, you might hear whining, groaning, or squealing sounds when the engine is running.
Common Causes
- Broken Serpentine Belt: Opens in new tabThe belt that drives the pump could have snapped, leading to instant power steering loss.
- Power Steering Fluid Issues: Opens in new tabA leak in the system or simply a low fluid level will prevent the pump from creating the necessary pressure.
- Power Steering Pump Failure: Opens in new tabThe pump itself could be faulty or worn out, causing it to stop pressurizing the fluid.
- Electrical Power Steering Problems: Opens in new tabNewer vehicles with electric power steering could have issues with their electric motor, sensors, or electronic control unit (ECU).
When to Seek Professional Help
If you find a broken belt, a significant fluid leak, or if the basic checks don’t reveal the issue, you should not drive the vehicle.
- Safety First: Turning the steering wheel with no power assist is very difficult and dangerous.
- Towing Required: Have the vehicle towed to a qualified mechanic for a thorough inspection. They can perform a more detailed diagnosis, check for internal pump or steering gear issues, and perform necessary repairs to restore your power steering.