How to replace your Honda car key
You can replace a Honda key by identifying your key type (metal, transponder, remote-head, or smart key), then using a Honda dealer, a licensed automotive locksmith, or a cut-by-code/mail-order service. Bring your VIN, proof of ownership, and ID; most keys require electronic programming to start the car. Expect costs ranging roughly from $80 to $600+ depending on model, key type, and whether you’ve lost all keys. Below is a detailed guide to help you choose the fastest and most cost-effective route.
Contents
Identify your key type and what needs replacing
The path, price, and time to replace a Honda key depend almost entirely on which key system your vehicle uses and whether you still have a working key. Honda has used immobilizer systems on most U.S. models since 1998, and many newer models use Smart Entry (push-button start). Determine your key before you shop for service.
- Traditional metal key: Older models and some base trims. No chip; any key cutter can duplicate. Won’t work for most 1998+ U.S. Hondas with immobilizers.
- Transponder (chip) key: Looks like a plain key but contains a chip that must be programmed to the car. Common on 1998–2014 models and many later trims without push-button start.
- Remote key with separate fob: A transponder key starts the car; a separate remote fob locks/unlocks. The remote can often be user-programmed on older models; the transponder chip cannot.
- Remote-head key: The remote buttons are built into the key head. Both cutting and programming are required.
- Smart Entry/Keyless Access fob (push-button start): A proximity fob starts the car; an internal emergency blade unlocks doors if the fob battery dies. Requires diagnostic programming.
- Emergency mechanical key blade: A small removable blade stored in the fob; it must be cut to your car even if you don’t use it daily.
Your key type determines whether you need only cutting, cutting plus immobilizer programming, or full Smart Entry registration. If you still have a working key, duplicating is cheaper and faster than recovering from a total loss.
What you’ll need
Providers will require specific details to verify ownership and to cut and program the correct key. Having these ready speeds the process and avoids repeat visits.
- Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): Found on the dashboard near the windshield and on your registration/insurance.
- Proof of ownership: Registration or title in your name (or company) is typically required to cut a key by VIN.
- Photo ID: Driver’s license or passport matching the ownership documents.
- An existing working key (if you have one): Lowers cost and risk; helps some models accept new keys more quickly.
- Key code (if available): Sometimes on a metal/plastic tag that came with the car; dealers/locksmiths can often retrieve it with proof of ownership.
- Year, model, trim, and transmission type: Ensures you get the correct fob part number and frequency.
These documents are part of anti-theft protocols. Dealers and licensed locksmiths generally won’t cut or program a key without verifying ownership.
Replacement options
Honda keys can be replaced through several channels. The best option depends on your key type, whether you have a spare, your budget, and how quickly you need the key.
- Honda dealership: Carries OEM keys/fobs and has official Honda diagnostic software. Ideal for newer Smart Entry systems (roughly 2014+). Typically higher parts and labor costs; may require towing if you’ve lost all keys and can’t get the car to the dealer.
- Licensed automotive locksmith (mobile): Often the fastest and most cost-effective. Can cut by code and program transponder and Smart Entry keys on-site. Look for providers with current licensing and secure credentials for immobilizer programming.
- Cut-by-code/mail order: You provide VIN or key code; they ship a precut key or fob. You’ll still need local programming for the immobilizer or Smart Entry. Use reputable sellers and verify correct Honda part numbers/FCC IDs to avoid compatibility issues.
Dealers offer the most brand-specific support, while mobile locksmiths minimize downtime. Mail-order can save on parts but rarely eliminates programming needs for modern Hondas.
Programming: immobilizer vs remote functions
Two separate systems are involved: the immobilizer (lets the engine start) and the remote functions (lock/unlock, trunk, remote start). They are programmed differently and sometimes by different methods.
- Immobilizer pairing (required to start the car): Needed for transponder keys, remote-head keys, and Smart Entry fobs. A diagnostic tool is used to register keys to the ECU; lost keys can be erased so they no longer start the car. Most Hondas from 2002 onward require dealer-level or professional locksmith equipment to add keys.
- Remote lock/unlock pairing: On many older Hondas (roughly 2001–2012), owners can program the remote buttons via an ignition/door cycle procedure. On newer models, a scan tool is typically required. Remote pairing does not program the immobilizer chip.
- Smart Entry systems (push-button start): The fob must be registered to the vehicle with a diagnostic tool, and the internal emergency blade must be cut. DIY pairing is generally not supported.
Expect separate fees for cutting and programming. When programming new keys, providers may re-register all existing keys at once to ensure only your current keys start the car.
If you lost all keys
Losing every key raises both the cost and complexity, but it is still solvable without replacing the entire ignition system on most models.
- Secure documents: Gather your ID and proof of ownership; you’ll need them before anyone will cut a key by VIN.
- Choose a provider: A mobile locksmith can usually come to you; a dealer may require a tow.
- Retrieve key code by VIN: Dealer or licensed locksmith can access manufacturer databases once ownership is verified.
- Cut an emergency/mechanical key: Allows physical access and, for non-smart models, enables ignition operation after programming.
- Program immobilizer/Smart Entry: Technician registers new keys/fobs and erases lost ones so they won’t start the car.
- Test and make a spare: Always leave with at least two working keys/fobs to avoid repeating “lost all keys” costs.
Most lost-all-keys jobs take from 45 minutes to a few hours once the provider arrives, depending on model year and system.
Typical costs and timelines in 2025 (U.S.)
Prices vary by region, parts source (OEM vs aftermarket), and the provider. These ranges reflect common retail experiences.
- Metal key duplication (no chip): $5–$25; done in minutes.
- Transponder key spare (with a working key): $80–$180 total for cut and program.
- Remote-head key: $120–$220 for part, cutting, and programming.
- Smart Entry fob spare: $180–$350 for the fob (OEM tends to the high end) plus $30–$70 to cut the emergency blade; programming typically $80–$150.
- Lost-all-keys surcharge: Add $100–$250 for code retrieval, on-site trip, and extra setup time.
- Dealer totals: Push-button models with no working fob commonly run $300–$600+; mobile locksmiths often come in lower.
Supply and labor rates shift, so request an itemized quote (part, cutting, programming, mobile/tow fee, taxes) before authorizing work.
DIY programming: when it’s possible
For most Hondas, immobilizer programming is not DIY. However, many older models allow owners to pair the lock/unlock remote without tools. This only restores button functions and will not let the car start if the transponder isn’t registered.
- Older models with separate remotes (roughly 2001–2012): Often support an in-car procedure involving cycling the ignition and pressing remote buttons to enter programming mode. All remotes must be learned in the same session.
- Newer models and Smart Entry: Typically require a scan tool; DIY pairing isn’t supported.
Check your owner’s manual or a model-year-specific guide for the exact steps. Have fresh batteries in all remotes and program them together.
Buying the right part
Before purchasing a key or fob online, verify compatibility to avoid programming failures and returns. Honda uses specific frequencies and button configurations by model and year.
- Match FCC ID and part number: Printed on the back of the fob (e.g., N5F-S0084A, KR5V2X). The FCC ID and button layout must match your vehicle.
- Choose OEM or high-quality aftermarket: OEM tends to be most reliable; reputable aftermarket can save money but confirm return policies.
- Smart fobs: Prefer new or “virgin” units. Some used fobs can’t be re-registered reliably.
- Emergency blade profile: Many Hondas use the HON66 sidewinder blade; ensure the correct blank is included or purchased separately.
When in doubt, provide your VIN to a dealer parts counter or locksmith to confirm the correct part number before buying.
International notes
Anti-theft and programming policies vary by country. In the EU/UK, proof-of-ownership and ID checks are standard, and costs often skew higher due to VAT and insurance requirements. Some regions restrict immobilizer code access to vetted locksmiths and dealers only, which can affect availability and pricing.
Preventive tips
A little planning dramatically reduces future costs and hassle, especially with Smart Entry systems.
- Keep two working keys/fobs at all times; replace a lost or flaky unit immediately.
- Store the key code tag and a spare key in a safe place away from the vehicle.
- Replace fob batteries proactively (commonly CR2032 or CR1620) every 1–2 years.
- Consider roadside assistance or insurance add-ons that cover key/fob replacement.
- Record your VIN, fob FCC ID, and part number for quick reference.
These steps reduce downtime and help any provider service your vehicle more efficiently.
FAQs
Common questions arise around where to go, how long it takes, and what’s required for security.
- Can Honda cut a key from my VIN? Yes, with proof of ownership and ID.
- Can a locksmith program Honda keys? Yes—ensure they’re licensed and equipped for Honda immobilizer/Smart Entry systems.
- How long does it take? Simple duplicates can be done in minutes; programming typically adds 15–60 minutes. Lost-all-keys can take longer.
- Do I need to tow the car? Dealers sometimes require it; mobile locksmiths usually program on-site and avoid towing.
- Will reprogramming disable stolen keys? Yes, technicians can erase missing keys so they no longer start the car.
If timing is critical, ask providers about same-day service windows and what documents you need to have ready.
Summary
To replace a Honda key, identify your key type, choose a provider (dealer or licensed locksmith), bring your VIN, proof of ownership, and ID, and budget for cutting plus programming. Older models may allow DIY remote-button pairing, but starting the vehicle almost always requires professional immobilizer programming. Plan to leave with two working keys to avoid repeat costs and downtime.
How much for a new Honda car key?
Honda Keys Lost & Replacement Car Keys
Key prices: remotes run from £110.00 to £180.00 and non remote from £55.00. If you lose your main key then you could be left without the use of or access to your car. Here at Key to My Car we can make a spare Honda key for all types of Hondas.
How to get a duplicate key for Honda?
Visit a Honda dealer or certified locksmith with your vehicle identification number (VIN) and proof of ownership. The new key must be cut and programmed to match your car’s security system, which may require specialized diagnostic equipment. Always verify key functionality before leaving.
Does AutoZone cut Honda keys?
Currently, AutoZone does not provide key cutting and programing services.
How to get a replacement key for a Honda?
In order to get a new key fob, you must visit your dealership with a copy of your Driver’s License and Registration to offer proof of ownership. The vehicle must be with you.


