How to Raise Your Car’s Ride Height

You can raise a car’s ride height by fitting slightly taller tires, installing suspension spacers or leveling kits, swapping to longer springs or adjustable coilovers, adding air-assist bags, and—on body-on-frame trucks—using a body lift. The right method depends on how much lift you want, your vehicle’s suspension design, budget, and local regulations. Below is a clear guide to options, trade-offs, and safe implementation.

Clarify Your Goal and Constraints

Before modifying ride height, define why you want the change—ground clearance for rough roads, better approach angles for light off-road, load support for towing, or purely aesthetics. Then check your vehicle’s suspension type, manufacturer guidance, and local laws. Raising a unibody sedan by 1–2 inches is realistic; larger lifts are more practical on body-on-frame trucks/SUVs. Any change can affect handling, braking, tire wear, fuel economy, warranty, and driver-assistance systems (ADAS).

Common Ways to Raise Ride Height

Taller Tires (Mild Lift, Minimal Complexity)

Fitting a tire with a slightly larger overall diameter increases ground clearance by half the added diameter (e.g., +1 inch tire diameter ≈ +0.5 inch clearance). This is the simplest approach but must clear fenders and suspension at full steering lock and full compression.

Suspension Spacers and Leveling Kits (Cost-Effective, 1–2 inches)

Strut spacers (for MacPherson struts) or spring spacers/keys (for coil or torsion setups) raise the body relative to the suspension without changing springs. Leveling kits reduce factory rake—common on trucks to bring the nose up. Quality kits include alignment geometry considerations.

Longer Springs or Adjustable Coilovers (Tunable, Handling Impact)

Replacing with slightly taller springs or height-adjustable coilovers can provide precise lift and allow damping adjustments. This changes spring rates and can affect comfort and grip. Match shocks to spring length and travel.

Air-Assist or Full Air Suspension (Load Support, On-Demand Height)

Air helper bags inside/over rear springs help maintain height under load; full air systems add adjustable height and leveling. These are more complex and costly but versatile for mixed-use vehicles.

Body Lift (Body-on-Frame Trucks Only, 1–3 inches)

Body lifts add spacers between the frame and body to clear larger tires without altering suspension geometry. They require bumper/steering/hoses adjustments and are not suitable for unibody cars or most crossovers.

Methods at a Glance: Pros, Cons, Typical Lift

The following list summarizes popular methods, highlighting typical lift ranges alongside key advantages and drawbacks to help you choose what fits your goals and vehicle.

• Taller tires (+0.5 to +1.0 inch): Simple, improves clearance everywhere; may require wheel offset changes, can rub without trimming, affects speedometer and gearing.
• Strut/spring spacers (+1 to +2 inches): Affordable, quick; limited travel gain, can stress top mounts if poorly designed, alignment mandatory.
• Adjustable coilovers (+0.5 to +2 inches): Precise control, improved damping; higher cost, may ride firmer, requires careful setup.
• Air helper bags (rear, variable): Great for towing/load; not a true lift unloaded, plumbing complexity, potential leaks over time.
• Full air suspension (variable): On-the-fly height control; expensive, needs calibration and maintenance, complex install.
• Body lift (+1 to +3 inches, trucks): Clears larger tires, preserves suspension geometry; extensive hardware changes, cosmetic gaps, not for unibody cars.
• Torsion bar adjustment (some trucks/SUVs, +0.5 to +1.5 inches): No parts needed; reduces droop travel, may firm ride, alignment required.
• Add-a-leaf or extended shackles (leaf-spring rears, +1 to +2 inches): Inexpensive lift/load capacity; firmer ride, potential pinion angle changes.

Most daily-driven cars should limit changes to about 1–2 inches total lift to preserve reliability and dynamics; trucks and dedicated off-road builds can support more with supporting mods.

Step-by-Step: Planning and Installation Overview

These steps outline a practical path from measuring your current setup to post-install checks. Even if a shop does the work, understanding the process helps you plan and budget.

1. Measure baseline ride height and clearances: hub center to fender, underbody low points, and tire-to-fender gaps at full lock.
2. Choose method and target lift: match to your suspension type and use case; confirm parts compatibility by year/make/model and drivetrain (AWD vs. FWD/RWD).
3. Model tire size changes: use a tire size calculator to check overall diameter, clearance, speedometer change, and wheel offset needs.
4. Source quality components: select kits that include top hats, alignment cam bolts, extended sway bar links/brake line brackets if needed.
5. Install with proper tools: spring compressor use is hazardous—follow torque specs and replace single-use fasteners and top-mount nuts.
6. Check ancillary systems: brake hose slack, ABS/ride-height sensor wiring, headlight leveling links, and exhaust/steering shaft clearances.
7. Get a professional alignment: set camber, caster (if adjustable), and toe to within spec for the new height.
8. Recalibrate systems: adjust headlight aim; recalibrate ADAS (radar/cameras) if required; correct speedometer/odometer with a programmer if tire size changed.
9. Road test and re-torque: after 50–100 miles, recheck fasteners and inspect for rubbing, vibration, or fluid/air leaks (air systems).

A careful plan with correct parts and post-install checks prevents premature wear, vibrations, or safety issues, and keeps your vehicle compliant and predictable to drive.

Safety, Legal, and Maintenance Considerations

Raising ride height changes geometry and loads across suspension and driveline. Keep the following in mind to avoid unsafe conditions or legal trouble.

• Alignment and tire wear: lifting typically increases positive camber and toe-out—an alignment is mandatory.
• Driveline angles: CV shafts and U-joints can bind or vibrate; consider differential drops or carrier bearing spacers for bigger lifts.
• Brake lines and ABS wires: ensure slack at full droop; relocate brackets if needed.
• Handling and braking: higher center of gravity increases body roll and stopping distances; upgrade sway bars or shocks if necessary.
• Headlights and ADAS: re-aim headlights; some vehicles need camera/radar recalibration after ride height changes.
• Legal limits and insurance: some regions restrict bumper/hood/headlight heights and tire protrusion; inform your insurer of modifications.
• Load ratings: do not exceed wheel/tire load and speed ratings; verify lift kit hardware grade and torque.
• Warranty and emissions: modifications can affect warranty claims; larger tires can alter OBD readiness drive cycles and shift points on autos.

Addressing these items preserves safety and compliance while maintaining predictable performance in daily driving and under load.

Typical Costs and Time

Expect the following ballpark ranges; complexity and location drive variation.

• Taller tires: $600–$1,400 for a set, plus $100–$200 for mounting/balancing; may need new wheels ($600–$1,500).
• Spacer/leveling kit: $100–$500 parts; $300–$800 labor; alignment $120–$200.
• Coilovers/springs: $700–$2,500 parts; $500–$1,000 labor; alignment required.
• Air helpers: $200–$600 parts; $300–$700 labor. Full air: $2,000–$5,000+ parts; $1,000–$2,500 labor.
• Body lift (trucks): $300–$1,000 parts; $800–$1,800 labor; plus incidentals (bumper/steering extensions).

Many DIYers handle spacer kits in a weekend; advanced systems or body lifts are best left to experienced shops with alignment and calibration tools.

Vehicle-Specific Notes

Passenger Cars (MacPherson Strut, Unibody)

Limit to modest lifts (about 1 inch) via strut spacers or slightly taller springs to protect CV joints and maintain suspension travel. Ensure strut top-mount integrity and headlight/ADAS recalibration where applicable.

Crossovers/SUVs with Independent Suspension

Spacer kits with matching subframe or differential drops help preserve CV angles for 1–2 inch lifts. Pair with appropriate all-terrain tires within wheel well limits.

Body-on-Frame Trucks

Leveling kits and modest suspension lifts are common; consider differential drops, longer brake lines, and driveshaft angle corrections as lift increases. Body lifts can clear larger tires without altering suspension travel.

EVs

Added tire diameter and mass can notably affect range. Check underbody battery protection clearances, jack points, and ADAS sensor calibration procedures before modifying ride height.

If You Meant Temporary Height Increase for Service

To safely raise the car temporarily for maintenance, use a quality hydraulic floor jack on manufacturer-designated jack points and support the vehicle with appropriately rated jack stands on solid ground.

• Chock wheels and set parking brake; locate jack points per the owner’s manual.
• Lift one corner or the front/rear centrally (if a central point exists) and place jack stands under recommended points.
• Never work under a car supported only by a jack; lower onto stands and gently rock-test stability before starting work.

This process is for temporary access and does not change ride height; always follow the vehicle manual’s safety guidance.

FAQs

These common questions help clarify expectations and avoid surprises when altering ride height.

• Will new shocks lift my car? Not by themselves—ride height comes from springs, spacers, or air systems; shocks control motion.
• How much lift is “safe” for daily driving? Generally 1–2 inches on most cars/crossovers; trucks can go higher with supporting mods.
• Do I need an alignment? Yes—after any change affecting ride height or suspension geometry.
• Will my speedometer be off with bigger tires? Yes; reprogramming may be needed to correct speed/odometer and transmission shift points.

Planning for these factors up front helps ensure a reliable, legal, and comfortable result that suits your driving.

Summary

To raise your car’s height, choose among taller tires, spacer/leveling kits, longer springs or coilovers, air-assist systems, or (for trucks) body lifts—balancing desired lift against cost, complexity, and effects on handling and legality. Keep lifts modest on unibody cars, verify parts compatibility, and always perform an alignment and post-install checks, including headlight and ADAS recalibration. With careful planning or a reputable shop, you can gain useful clearance without sacrificing safety or drivability.

How do you lift your car height?

Lifting the Car from the Side Another option is to jack up the car from the side. Jack up one side, place the jack stands, then do the same on the other side. Be cautious here as it’s easy to lift too much. It’s a very good idea to place chocks ahead of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels.

How much would it cost to raise my car?

The Cost of Lift Kits
The most affordable options, leveling kits and body kits range from $100-$500.

How do I increase the height of my car?

To raise a car’s height, you can install taller tires, use coil spring spacers or a suspension lift kit, or use a body lift kit to create a gap between the vehicle’s body and frame. Adjustable coilover systems or air suspension allow for on-demand height changes. The best method depends on your vehicle type, budget, and desired height increase, and a professional alignment is often necessary after making these changes. 
Tire and Wheel Modifications 

• Taller Tires: Replacing current tires with ones that have a larger overall diameter is a simple, cost-effective way to gain a small amount of ground clearance. This can also improve off-road grip.

This video shows how to adjust coilovers and ride height on a car: 51sTuner Test DriveYouTube · Oct 5, 2020
Suspension-Based Solutions

• Suspension Lift Kits: Opens in new tabThese kits raise the entire suspension system, providing a substantial increase in ground clearance. They are ideal for off-road use and improve a vehicle’s stance. 
• Coil Spring Spacers: Opens in new tabPlaced on top of existing coil springs, these spacers add height without a full suspension replacement. 
• Adjustable Coilovers: Opens in new tabIf your car has coilovers, you can adjust the ride height by using spanner wrenches to turn the adjuster collars on the shock absorber. 
• Air Suspension Systems: Opens in new tabThese systems use airbags instead of springs, allowing you to change the vehicle’s ride height as needed. 
• Torsion Bar Adjustment: Opens in new tabFor vehicles equipped with torsion bars, turning them can raise the vehicle’s height. 

Body-Based Solutions 

• Body Lift Kits: These kits use spacers or blocks to raise the car’s body away from its frame, increasing ground clearance without altering the suspension. This method is often more affordable than a suspension lift and maintains the ride quality.

Important Considerations

• Safety First: Always park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and chock the wheels before working on your vehicle. 
• Professional Help: For significant changes or complex suspension systems, professional installation is recommended. 
• Alignment: A wheel alignment is often necessary after any modification that changes the vehicle’s ride height to ensure proper handling and stability. 
• Legal Regulations: Check your local laws and regulations regarding vehicle lift modifications before making any changes. 

What to do if your car is too low?

An (air) suspension system could well be the solution! If your vehicle is too low, this indicates that your vehicle has an (overly) heavy load. As a result, there is little or no spring travel.