How Much Does a New Distributor Cost?

A new automotive distributor typically costs $100–$450 for the part alone, depending on the vehicle and brand; OEM new units often run $250–$600, while remanufactured units commonly sell for $80–$200. Installed by a shop, the total usually lands between $250 and $900, factoring in 0.5–2.0 hours of labor and any add-ons like a cap, rotor, or timing adjustment. Note: Many modern cars no longer use distributors, so this applies mainly to older models (especially 1970s–1990s and some early-2000s vehicles).

Why the Answer Depends on Your Vehicle

Distributors are mechanical/ignition components used on older engines to route high-voltage spark to each cylinder. Many vehicles built from the late 1990s onward switched to distributorless ignition systems or coil-on-plug setups, eliminating the distributor entirely. If your car has a distributor, cost varies with make and model, part availability, and whether you choose a new OEM, new aftermarket, or remanufactured unit.

Price Ranges at a Glance

The ranges below summarize common part and installation costs for distributor-equipped vehicles in North America, based on current retail pricing and typical shop labor rates.

• Part (remanufactured): $80–$200
• Part (new aftermarket): $120–$350
• Part (new OEM): $250–$600+
• Labor: 0.5–2.0 hours at $90–$180/hour (typical), or $45–$360
• Common add-ons: cap and rotor $20–$80, plug wires $40–$120, O-ring/gasket $2–$10, scan/diagnosis $50–$150
• Total installed (typical): $250–$900

These ranges reflect mainstream parts and labor under normal conditions; rare models, performance builds, or sourcing constraints can push totals higher, while DIY installation can substantially lower the out-the-door price.

Real-World Examples

1992–2000 Honda Civic/Integra (common Hitachi/Denso units)

Part: $180–$350 new OEM/Hitachi; $110–$220 reman. Installed total: $350–$700, including timing setup (often requires putting the ECU into base-timing mode via a service connector).

1996–1999 Chevrolet/GMC 5.7L V8 (small-block, Vortec)

Part: $120–$280 new aftermarket or ACDelco; $90–$180 reman. Installed total: $300–$650. Careful indexing is important because the distributor also drives the oil pump.

Early-1990s Ford 5.0L/5.8L (TFI-style)

Part: $130–$250 (Motorcraft/aftermarket); $90–$180 reman. Installed total: $320–$700, plus potential costs if the TFI module or wiring pigtails need attention.

1985–1995 Toyota 22R/22RE

Part: $180–$420 (Denso/Hitachi or quality aftermarket); $120–$220 reman. Installed total: $380–$800, depending on availability and timing service.

What Drives the Price Up or Down

Several factors determine what you’ll pay for a new distributor and installation.

• Vehicle make/model and year: Parts for popular 1990s Hondas, Toyotas, and domestic V8s are widely available; rarer or European models can be pricier.
• Part type and brand: OEM (Denso, Hitachi, Motorcraft, ACDelco, Bosch, Delphi) usually costs more than aftermarket; remanufactured units are often the cheapest.
• Integrated components: Some distributors include sensors (e.g., cam/crank pickup, ignition module), raising cost.
• Labor complexity: Access, seized hardware, or the need to set base timing and verify with a timing light add time.
• Related wear items: Caps, rotors, plug wires, and seals are commonly replaced during the job.
• Supply conditions: Older platforms can fluctuate with supply; performance/HEI units or racing parts command premiums.

Understanding these variables helps you choose the right mix of cost and reliability and anticipate the true installed price.

Additional Parts and Services You May Need

It’s common to address wear items and setup procedures when replacing a distributor to ensure a reliable repair.

• Cap and rotor: Often sold separately; replacing them with the distributor avoids misfire/weak spark issues.
• Spark plug wires: Age-related resistance and cracking can undermine new ignition parts.
• Distributor O-ring/gasket: Prevents oil leaks at the housing.
• Timing adjustment: Many engines require base timing to be set with a timing light and, in some cases, a service connector or scan tool procedure.
• Diagnosis: Verifying the distributor is the root cause (vs coil, module, sensor, or wiring) can save money.

Bundling these items during replacement typically improves reliability and can reduce labor duplication later.

DIY vs. Shop Installation

DIY installation can cut costs substantially, but it requires careful indexing and timing. A competent DIYer typically spends 1–3 hours with basic hand tools, a timing light, and vehicle-specific procedures. A professional shop provides correct setup, scan-tool support where applicable, and warranty on labor—worth considering if drivability and emissions testing are concerns.

How to Save Without Sacrificing Reliability

These tips can help you control costs while avoiding false economy.

• Price-compare OEM vs high-quality aftermarket and reman units with strong warranties.
• Buy from reputable sources to avoid counterfeit ignition parts.
• Replace cap/rotor/wires proactively if aged to prevent repeat labor.
• Ask the shop to show base timing values before and after to confirm proper setup.
• Check for service bulletins; some platforms have known module or pickup failures that inform part choice.

Smart sourcing and confirming proper setup usually pay off more than choosing the absolute lowest upfront price.

A Note on Terminology

If you’re asking about a “distributor” in a business context (e.g., finding a product distributor), the costs are entirely different—usually involving onboarding fees, minimum orders, or territory agreements. This article covers automotive ignition distributors; tell us your context if you meant something else.

Summary

Expect to pay $100–$450 for a new automotive distributor (up to $600+ for OEM), or $80–$200 for remanufactured units. With labor, timing setup, and common add-ons, most drivers spend $250–$900 installed. Prices hinge on your vehicle, part quality, and the complexity of timing and setup—so verify your car actually uses a distributor, compare reputable brands, and budget for related wear items to ensure a dependable repair.

Does a new distributor make a difference?

Yes, a new distributor can make a significant difference in a vehicle’s performance by improving engine power, gas mileage, and starting, especially if the old one is worn or malfunctioning. Newer and aftermarket distributors offer more precise timing, better ignition control, and a stronger spark, leading to a smoother-running engine with fewer misfires.
 
Benefits of a New Distributor

• Improved Engine Performance: A new distributor ensures more accurate ignition timing, leading to better engine performance and power across the entire rev range. 
• Better Fuel Economy: Proper timing and more efficient combustion from a new distributor can result in improved gas mileage and lower fuel bills. 
• Easier Starting: A strong, precise spark from a new distributor helps the engine start more easily, especially in cold weather. 
• Fewer Misfires: A functioning distributor provides the correct voltage to the spark plugs, preventing misfires, rough running, and stalling. 
• Stronger Spark: Modern distributors are designed to deliver a more powerful and consistent spark, which is crucial for efficient combustion. 

When a Replacement Is Necessary 

• Worn-Out Components: Opens in new tabThe rotor and cap, which are part of the distributor system, wear out quickly and need replacement every 10,000–20,000 miles. A complete distributor replacement addresses wear in multiple components.
• Engine Performance Issues: Opens in new tabIf your engine is experiencing problems like misfiring, poor acceleration, or difficulty starting, the distributor may be faulty.
• Check Engine Light: Opens in new tabFor modern vehicles, a problem with the distributor often triggers the “Check Engine” light.

Considerations When Replacing

• Complete Replacement: Replacing the entire distributor is often more beneficial than just replacing the cap and rotor, as it addresses wear throughout the component. 
• Modern Designs: Upgrading to a modern or aftermarket distributor can provide advantages over older designs, especially if the original system was particularly basic. 
• OEM vs. Aftermarket: You can choose between an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) replacement, which meets factory standards, or an aftermarket part, which may offer high-performance features. 

How much does a $50,000 square foot warehouse cost?

For small warehouses of 40 by 60 ft, the prices can be as low as $150000. However, for big warehouses of about 50000 square feet, the prices shoot up to $3,125,000. The price is affected by the size of the warehouse, the type of materials, delivery costs, and construction methods.

How much is it to replace a distributor?

The average cost for distributor replacement ranges between $190 and $915. This includes: Parts: $50 to $615.

How do I tell if my distributor is bad?

A bad distributor can cause a car to have trouble starting, misfire, stall, experience poor acceleration, or have a rough idle and rough running. You may also notice a check engine light, strange engine noises, or vibrating. You can also identify a bad distributor by physically inspecting the cap and rotor for wear, cracks, carbon buildup, or burned terminals.
 
Common Driving & Engine Symptoms

• Difficulty starting: The engine may crank but won’t start, or it takes a long time to start. 
• Engine misfires: You’ll feel the engine shudder or hesitate, as if it’s not firing on all cylinders. 
• Stalling: The engine may cut out or die, especially when you’re slowing down or stopped. 
• Rough idling: The engine will run unevenly when the car is idling. 
• Poor acceleration: The car may feel sluggish and lack power when you press the gas pedal. 
• Check Engine Light: A malfunctioning distributor can trigger the check engine light. 
• Unusual engine noises: You might hear sputtering, tapping, or clicking sounds from the engine. 

How to Inspect the Distributor

1. Locate the distributor: It’s usually at the front of the engine. 
2. Remove the distributor cap: Mark the wires and contacts before removing to ensure correct reinstallation. 
3. Inspect the cap and rotor: Look for the following issues: 
   • Cracks or damage: Any cracks or physical damage to the cap. 
   • Carbon buildup: A layer of black carbon on the rotor or inside the cap. 
   • Burn marks: Burned areas on the rotor or cap terminals. 
   • Corrosion: White or green buildup on the metal terminals. 
   • Worn or eroded contacts: The metal terminals inside the cap and on the rotor should be intact. 
4. Check for shaft play: Wiggle the distributor shaft; if there’s excessive side-to-side play, the shaft’s bushings are worn.