How Much Does It Cost to Fix an Electronic Throttle Control System?

Expect to pay about $300–$900 to replace a typical electronic throttle body on most mainstream vehicles, $150–$450 to replace an accelerator pedal position sensor, $100–$400 for wiring repairs, and $0–$200 for cleaning and a throttle relearn; a diagnostic fee of $100–$180 is common and often applied to the repair. Actual costs vary by vehicle make, part pricing (OEM vs. aftermarket), labor rates, and whether software updates or calibration are required.

What You’re Paying For: The Parts of an ETC System

Modern vehicles use drive-by-wire electronic throttle control (ETC) instead of a mechanical cable. Understanding what can fail helps explain the range of repair prices.

• Electronic throttle body: Houses a motorized throttle plate and dual throttle position sensors.
• Accelerator pedal assembly: Contains dual accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors.
• Engine control module (ECM/PCM): Interprets pedal input and commands the throttle motor.
• Wiring and connectors: Carry signals and power between sensors, throttle, and the control module.
• Related hardware/software: Intake ducting and gaskets, plus adaptations and software calibrations.

Troubleshooting typically starts with scanning for fault codes and verifying sensor data before replacing parts, since symptoms can overlap across components.

Typical Repair Scenarios and Price Ranges (Parts + Labor)

The following ranges reflect recent U.S. shop quotes for common ETC fixes, factoring average labor rates and part prices. Location, brand, and availability can shift these numbers.

• Throttle body replacement: $300–$900 on most mainstream cars/SUVs; $700–$1,500 on luxury, turbocharged, performance, or some diesel models. Labor is commonly 0.7–2.0 hours; many vehicles need an idle/throttle adaptation afterward.
• Accelerator pedal position sensor/assembly: $150–$450. Some vehicles require replacing the entire pedal assembly rather than the sensor alone.
• Throttle body cleaning + idle relearn: $0–$200. Effective when carbon buildup causes sticking or idle issues, provided the motor/sensors are healthy.
• Wiring or connector repair: $100–$400, depending on access and corrosion/rodent damage.
• ECM/PCM software update (reflash): $100–$200 when a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) addresses drivability or correlation faults.
• ECM/PCM replacement + programming: $600–$1,800+ if the module itself fails or is water-damaged.
• Diagnostic fee: $100–$180, often credited toward the repair if you proceed with the shop.

Most ETC fixes fall below $1,000, but costs climb with premium brands, complex calibration needs, or scarce parts. Always request a written estimate that lists parts, labor hours, shop fees, and taxes.

What Drives the Price Up or Down

Several factors influence your final bill beyond the base part price.

• Labor rate and book time: Metro and dealer rates are higher; some models require intake removal or difficult access.
• OEM vs. aftermarket parts: OEM is usually pricier but can improve compatibility and lifespan; quality aftermarket brands (Denso, Bosch, Hitachi) are often solid choices.
• Calibration requirements: Many cars need throttle/idle adaptations using a scan tool; some require road test procedures.
• Bundled service: New gaskets, cleaning of the intake and MAF, or smoke testing for vacuum leaks can add modest cost but improve outcomes.
• Supply constraints: Specialty or performance throttle bodies and some European parts can have long lead times and higher prices.

Ask the shop how much time they’ve allocated for access, calibration, and any recommended add-ons like gasket replacement or intake cleaning.

Real-World Price Examples

Below are typical U.S. ranges for throttle body replacement on popular models; local quotes may vary.

• 2016 Ford F-150 3.5L: $400–$650 total.
• 2014 Toyota Camry 2.5L: $350–$600 total.
• 2018 Honda CR‑V 1.5T: $400–$700 total.
• 2012 BMW 335i: $800–$1,200 total.
• 2015 VW GTI: $550–$900 total (adaptation required).
• 2009 Dodge Charger 5.7L: $450–$800 total.

Use these as ballpark figures. For an accurate estimate, provide your VIN and symptom details to at least two shops and request line-item quotes.

Diagnosis: How Shops Confirm an ETC Problem

Good diagnostics can prevent unnecessary part swaps. Here’s how technicians typically isolate ETC faults.

• Scan for DTCs and freeze-frame data: Common codes include P0121–P0123 (TPS range), P2111 (throttle stuck open), P2112 (stuck closed), P2135 (TPS/APP correlation), P2101/P2107 (throttle actuator), P2122–P2128 (APP sensor).
• Live data checks: Compare redundant TPS and APP sensor signals for agreement; inspect throttle command vs. actual position.
• Actuator tests and relearn: Use scan tools to sweep the throttle and perform adaptations.
• Vacuum and air leaks: Smoke-test intake; leaks can mimic ETC issues.
• Electrical integrity: Inspect grounds, power feeds, and connectors for corrosion or damage.
• Software/TSBs: Check for firmware updates or known issues that require reflash rather than parts.

A thorough workup often takes 0.5–1.0 hour and can save money by pinpointing the true cause.

Symptoms You’ll Notice

ETC faults often trigger drivability changes that can be mistaken for transmission or fuel problems.

• ETC or check-engine light illuminated; traction/ESC lights may also appear.
• Limp mode: Limited throttle response and reduced power.
• Hesitation, surging, erratic idle, or stalling at stops.
• Poor acceleration, delayed response, or high idle.
• Intermittent no-start or sudden loss of throttle control in rare cases.

If the vehicle enters limp mode or stalls, avoid highway driving and have it inspected promptly for safety.

Repair, Clean, or Replace?

Not every ETC symptom means a new part. The correct fix depends on the root cause.

• Clean + relearn: Best for carbon buildup causing sticky operation or unstable idle, with no actuator/sensor failure codes.
• Replace throttle body: Indicated by actuator motor failure, binding plate, or persistent correlation/stuck codes (e.g., P2111/P2112) after cleaning.
• Software reflash: Appropriate when a TSB addresses throttle mapping or false correlation faults.

Let data, not guesswork, guide the decision. Quality parts and proper calibration are key to a lasting fix.

DIY vs. Professional

Many home mechanics can clean or replace a throttle body, but modern systems often require scan-tool adaptations and careful handling.

• Tools: Basic sockets, torque wrench, throttle-body cleaner, new gasket; scan tool capable of throttle/idle relearn is ideal.
• Precautions: Disconnect battery per OEM guidance, avoid forcing the throttle plate by hand on sensitive units, and prevent solvent from entering electronics.
• Relearn: Some vehicles self-adapt with a specific idle/drive cycle; others need a bidirectional scan tool.

If you lack the tools for calibration or encounter correlation codes, a professional shop can complete the adaptation and verify results.

Warranty, Recalls, and Goodwill

Before paying out of pocket, check coverage and known issues.

• Factory warranty: Basic coverage (often 3yr/36k mi) may include the throttle body and sensors; powertrain coverage varies by brand.
• Emissions warranty: The 8yr/80k federal emissions warranty typically covers components like the ECM and catalytic converters; throttle bodies are usually not included.
• Recalls/TSBs: Use your VIN on NHTSA’s recall lookup and the manufacturer’s site; some makes had extended coverage or software fixes for ETC issues.

If you’re just out of warranty with documented symptoms, ask the dealer about goodwill assistance, especially on low-mileage vehicles.

How to Save Without Cutting Corners

Smart choices can lower costs while maintaining reliability.

• Start with cleaning and a relearn if diagnostics don’t show hard failures.
• Choose reputable parts (OEM or brands like Denso, Bosch, Hitachi) over ultra-cheap options.
• Consider remanufactured throttle bodies with warranties when OEM new prices are high.
• Compare quotes from a dealer and a trusted independent ASE-certified shop.
• Ask for bundled pricing on intake cleaning or gasket replacement while the system is open.
• Check for coupons, roadside-assistance discounts, and member pricing (AAA, warehouse clubs).

Balancing quality parts with competitive labor rates usually delivers the best overall value.

Time in the Shop

Diagnosis typically takes 30–60 minutes. Cleaning or pedal sensor replacement is often done in under an hour. Throttle body replacement with adaptation generally requires 1–3 hours, and most repairs can be completed same day if parts are in stock.

Bottom Line

For most vehicles, fixing the electronic throttle control system costs $300–$900 for a throttle body replacement, with lower-cost possibilities if cleaning or a pedal sensor solves it. Proper diagnostics, quality parts, and correct calibration are essential to prevent repeat issues.

Summary

Budget $300–$900 for a typical throttle body replacement ($700–$1,500 on higher-end models), $150–$450 for a pedal sensor, and $0–$200 for cleaning/relearn, plus a $100–$180 diagnostic that is often credited to the repair. Prices depend on brand, labor rates, and whether software updates or calibrations are required. Start with a solid diagnosis and ask for a detailed, line-item estimate to avoid overpaying.

Can you drive with a bad electronic throttle control?

No, driving with a flashing electronic throttle control light is not recommended. It signals a serious issue with the electronic throttle control system, and continuing to drive could damage the engine or lead to a sudden loss of power.

How do I reset my electronic throttle control?

Next insert the key into the ignition. And turn it to the on. Position. But don’t start the engine. Let the dashboard lights run their checks.

What causes an electronic throttle control to go bad?

An electronic throttle control (ETC) fails due to carbon buildup, mechanical wear of internal plastic gears, faulty sensors (throttle position sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor), damaged wiring or connections, or a malfunctioning engine control module (ECM). Causes can also include vacuum leaks, or a stuck throttle plate. 
Common Causes

• Carbon Buildup: Carbon deposits can restrict the throttle valve’s movement, leading to sticking, stalling, or an erratic idle. 
• Mechanical Wear: Plastic gears inside the throttle body can wear down or break, causing the throttle plate to skip or bind. 
• Failing Sensors:
  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): If this sensor provides inaccurate readings, the ECM cannot accurately control the throttle, triggering the ETC light. 
  • Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor: A faulty APP sensor can send incorrect information to the ECM about the driver’s input. 
• Wiring Issues: Damaged or loose wiring and connections at the throttle body or APP sensor can disrupt communication with the ECM. 
• Malfunctioning ECM: The ECM itself can have internal faults, leading to incorrect signals sent to the throttle body. 
• Vacuum Leaks: Unmetered air entering the engine through leaks can interfere with the ETC system’s ability to regulate engine speed. 
• Stuck Throttle Plate: Even with functional electronics, a throttle plate that gets physically stuck can cause the system to enter limp mode. 

Symptoms of a Bad ETC An illuminated ETC warning light, Engine enters “limp mode” with limited power, Poor acceleration, Erratic or high idle speed, and Vehicle stalling.

Is electronic throttle control expensive to fix?

Electronic throttle control (ETC) repairs can be expensive, with replacement costs for a faulty throttle body ranging from $70 to over $1,000, depending on the vehicle’s part cost and labor rates in your area. A simple cleaning might be a cheaper fix, but a complete throttle body replacement is the most common repair for ETC issues, and labor costs, diagnostic fees, and the need for a special “re-learn” procedure on some vehicles can add to the expense.
 
Factors influencing cost:

• Diagnostic fees: Mechanics must run diagnostics to pinpoint the exact issue, which can be costly. 
• Parts cost: The price of the new throttle body itself varies significantly by make and model. 
• Labor rates: These hourly charges from the repair shop differ based on your location and the specific mechanic. 
• “Re-learn” procedure: Some vehicles require a special electronic re-learn procedure after a throttle body replacement, which adds to the labor time and cost. 

What you can expect:

• Cleaning: A simple cleaning of a dirty throttle body can be a low-cost solution. 
• Replacement: If the throttle body needs to be replaced, the total cost combines the part and labor. For example, a 2014 Chrysler 200 throttle body replacement can range from $472 to $522, while costs for other vehicles can be significantly different. 
• Other repairs: The problem might stem from a cheaper part, like a throttle position sensor, rather than the entire throttle body. 

To get a more accurate estimate:

• Get multiple estimates: Contact several mechanics for quotes based on your specific vehicle. 
• Provide details: Be prepared to provide details about your vehicle’s make, model, and year to get the most accurate estimate. 
• Ask about the re-learn procedure: Inquire if the repair will include the electronic re-learn procedure, which can add to the total cost.