How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Brake Booster?

Expect to pay about $350–$900 for a typical vacuum brake booster replacement in the U.S. in 2025, including parts and labor. Trucks and SUVs often run $500–$1,100, hydroboost systems $700–$1,500, and modern electronic boosters in hybrids/EVs can reach $1,200–$3,000. Prices vary by vehicle, part type (OEM vs. aftermarket), and local labor rates. Below is a detailed breakdown of what drives the cost, how long the job takes, and tips to keep your bill in check.

What a Brake Booster Does—and Why It Matters

The brake booster multiplies the force you apply on the pedal so the vehicle stops with less effort. Most cars use a vacuum booster; many heavy-duty trucks use hydroboost (powered by power-steering pressure). Newer hybrids and EVs often use electronic brake boosters that integrate with ABS/ESC. When a booster fails, the pedal turns hard, stopping distances increase, and you may hear a hissing sound—issues that can make the car unsafe to drive.

Typical Price Ranges in 2025

Here are realistic, current U.S. price bands for brake booster replacement, factoring common parts and labor rates seen at independent shops and dealerships.

• Compact/midsize cars (vacuum booster): $350–$900 total
• Trucks/SUVs (vacuum booster): $500–$1,100 total
• Hydroboost systems (many trucks/SUVs): $700–$1,500 total
• Electronic brake boosters (hybrids/EVs, some late-model vehicles): $1,200–$3,000 total
• Integrated booster + master cylinder assemblies (select models): $1,000–$2,500+ total

These ranges reflect typical parts availability and labor rates in 2025; high-end brands or tight engine bays can push totals upward, while common models with aftermarket parts often fall toward the lower end.

Cost Breakdown: Parts, Labor, and Extras

Understanding how the invoice is built helps you compare quotes fairly and avoid surprises.

• Parts
  

  • Vacuum brake booster (aftermarket): $120–$350; OEM: $250–$700
  • Hydroboost unit: $250–$700 (aftermarket); $400–$1,000 (OEM)
  • Electronic brake booster assembly: $700–$2,000+ (mostly OEM)
  • Master cylinder (if replaced): $75–$250 (aftermarket); $200–$450 (OEM)
  • Vacuum hose/check valve: $10–$80

• Labor
  

  • Book time: 1.5–3.5 hours typical; some trucks and tight engine bays can reach 4.0+ hours
  • Labor rate: $110–$170/hr at many independent shops; $160–$250/hr at many dealerships

• Common add-ons
  

  • Brake fluid bleed/flush (often required): $90–$150
  • Master cylinder replacement (if leaking or recommended): add $150–$500 parts/labor
  • Software initialization/calibration (electronic boosters): 0.3–0.8 hr labor
  • Vacuum pump (if failed on some turbo/DI engines): $200–$700 parts + 0.7–1.5 hr labor

Not every job needs the extras, but many do—especially a fluid flush if brake lines are opened or if the fluid is contaminated.

What Pushes Your Cost Up or Down

Several factors explain why two cars can have very different totals for what seems like the same repair.

• Vehicle type and design complexity (hybrids/EVs and some luxury models cost more)
• Part choice: aftermarket vs. OEM vs. remanufactured
• Labor rate differences between independent shops and dealerships
• Access constraints (tight firewall/engine bay, dash removal on rare cases)
• Bundled work (master cylinder, vacuum pump, or ABS-related work done concurrently)
• Regional economics (big-city vs. rural pricing, taxes, shop fees)

When comparing quotes, ensure each estimate covers the same scope—parts brand, fluid flush, and any calibration or additional components.

How Long the Job Takes

Most brake booster replacements take 1.5 to 3.5 hours. Trucks with hydroboost, vehicles with cramped engine bays, and electronic systems that require calibration can extend the job to around 4 hours or more. Shops may ask to keep the vehicle half a day to manage scheduling and road-test time.

DIY vs. Professional Service

Skilled DIYers can sometimes replace a vacuum booster with standard tools, but the work involves tight spaces under the dash, disconnecting the brake pedal linkage, and often opening brake lines (requiring proper bleeding). Electronic boosters may require factory-level scan tools for calibration.

Safety and Practical Considerations

If your brake pedal is very hard or you hear constant hissing when braking, the car may not be safe to drive—have it towed. Improper bleeding or setup can compromise braking performance, so if you’re unsure, professional service is advisable.

How to Get a Strong Estimate—and Save

Use these steps to secure an accurate price and avoid paying for work you don’t need.

1. Request a written, line-item estimate showing part brand (OEM vs. aftermarket), labor hours, labor rate, and any flush/calibration fees.
2. Ask the shop to test the vacuum supply, one-way check valve, and (if applicable) the vacuum pump before replacing the booster.
3. Compare at least two quotes—one dealership and one reputable independent shop.
4. Consider quality aftermarket or reman boosters for older vehicles to reduce cost.
5. Bundle related work (e.g., master cylinder) if it meaningfully reduces duplicated labor.
6. Check for coupons or service specials, especially for brake services.

A transparent estimate and basic diagnostic steps help ensure you replace the right part at a fair price.

Recalls, Warranties, and Coverage

Before paying out of pocket, verify whether your vehicle has extended warranty coverage, technical service bulletins (TSBs), or recalls related to the brake booster or brake actuator. This is especially relevant for some hybrids and popular truck models.

• Search your VIN at the NHTSA recall site (U.S.) or your national regulator’s site.
• Call a dealer with your VIN to check for goodwill or extended coverage.
• Review any certified pre-owned or extended service contracts you may carry.

Coverage varies by make, model, and mileage; a quick VIN check can save significant money if your vehicle qualifies.

When to Replace

Common symptoms include a hard brake pedal, longer stopping distances, hissing from the pedal area, and stalling when braking on some engines with large vacuum leaks. If these appear, schedule diagnosis promptly. Continuing to drive can be hazardous and may damage related components.

Bottom Line

In 2025, most conventional brake booster replacements cost $350–$900, while trucks and specialty systems (hydroboost or electronic boosters) can run $700 to well over $1,500, with hybrids/EVs reaching $1,200–$3,000. Confirm the diagnosis, compare detailed quotes, and check for recalls or warranty coverage to keep your costs in check.

Summary

Brake booster replacement pricing depends on system type, vehicle design, part choice, and labor rates. Expect $350–$900 for typical cars, $500–$1,100 for many trucks/SUVs, $700–$1,500 for hydroboost, and $1,200–$3,000 for electronic boosters. Ask for a line-item estimate, verify the root cause, and check for recalls or extended coverage before authorizing repairs.

How much should it cost to replace a brake booster?

A brake booster replacement generally costs between $300 and $1,300, with most jobs falling on the lower end of that range. This price includes parts and labor, with part costs typically ranging from $150 to $300 and labor at $100 to $200, although these figures can vary based on the vehicle’s make and model, and the accessibility of the brake booster. 
Cost Breakdown 

• Parts: Expect to pay roughly $150 to $300 for a replacement brake booster, though prices can vary significantly.
• Labor: Labor costs for this job are often in the $100 to $200 range, but can be higher on some vehicles.

Factors Influencing Cost

• Vehicle Type: Opens in new tabThe make and model of your car are the most significant factors influencing the cost, as parts and labor prices differ between vehicles. 
• Brake Booster Accessibility: Opens in new tabSome brake boosters are easier to access than others. Vehicles with parts that are difficult to reach may require more labor to replace the booster, increasing the overall cost. 
• Remanufactured vs. OEM Parts: Opens in new tabYou may save money by choosing a remanufactured brake booster instead of an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part, but prices can still vary. 

What the Job Entails
A brake booster replacement usually involves unbolting the old part from its connections to the brake pedal linkage and the firewall, and then installing a new one. On some vehicles, you might need to remove trim pieces to access the booster. 
When to See a Professional
If you notice your brakes becoming harder to push, it could be a sign of a faulty brake booster. It is essential to have your braking system inspected by a professional mechanic.

Is brake booster replacement worth it?

Is It Worth Replacing the Brake Booster? Yes! A faulty brake booster weakens your car’s braking power, requiring immense pressure on the brake pedals to stop or even slow down. This isn’t just inconvenient — it’s unsafe, especially in emergencies.

Is a brake booster an easy fix?

Like is said, replacing the brake booster is not difficult. However, if you are not mechanically inclined, this may be a job for a mechanic. Remember, we are dealing with a pretty important vehicle function, the brakes. You may have to remove that master cylinder and bleed the brakes after you put it back on.

Can I drive with a bad brake booster?

No, you cannot safely drive with a bad brake booster because it significantly reduces your vehicle’s ability to stop, making it dangerous. A failing brake booster requires you to press the brake pedal with much greater force, and in some cases, it can lead to the brakes failing completely. You should have the component repaired or replaced immediately by a mechanic.
 
Symptoms of a Bad Brake Booster

• Hard brake pedal: You’ll need excessive force to press the brake pedal. 
• Increased stopping distance: Your car will take longer to come to a complete stop. 
• Hissing noise: You may hear a loud hissing sound from under the hood when you press the brake pedal. 
• Engine stalling: A leaking booster can cause a vacuum leak, which can lead to the engine stalling or running poorly when you brake. 
• Stiff or sinking pedal: The pedal may feel stiff, or it could sink to the floor. 

Why it’s dangerous
A brake booster uses engine vacuum to multiply the force you apply to the pedal, making your brakes more effective. If the booster fails, the only force available to slow your vehicle is your own muscular force, which is often insufficient. This can lead to accidents, especially in emergency situations. 
This video explains the symptoms of a failing brake booster: 47sCountermanYouTube · May 15, 2020
What to do if you suspect a bad brake booster

1. Avoid driving: Do not drive the vehicle, especially not in heavy traffic. 
2. Seek immediate professional help: Take your car to a qualified mechanic to have the brake system inspected and repaired as soon as possible.