How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Brake Booster and Master Cylinder?

Expect to pay about $500–$1,600 in the U.S. to replace a conventional vacuum brake booster and master cylinder together, depending on vehicle, parts quality, and labor rates. Replacing the master cylinder alone typically runs $250–$600, while a booster alone is often $350–$900. Hydroboost systems on trucks commonly total $600–$1,400, and newer electric/“iBooster” units can range from $1,500–$3,500+. Below, we break down what drives the price, typical scenarios, and how to budget.

What These Parts Do—and Why Cost Varies

The brake master cylinder converts pedal force into hydraulic pressure for all four brakes. The brake booster—vacuum, hydraulic (hydroboost), or electric—amplifies pedal effort so you can stop with reasonable pedal feel. Costs swing due to design differences (vacuum vs. hydroboost vs. electric), part pricing (aftermarket vs. OEM), access complexity, and whether electronic bleeding or calibration is required on modern systems.

Common Symptoms That Point to Booster or Master Cylinder Issues

These are the typical signs that indicate one or both components may need replacement.

• Hard brake pedal (often booster failure or no vacuum assist)
• Brake pedal slowly sinks at a stop (internal master cylinder leak)
• Hissing sound at the pedal, rough idle, or vacuum leak codes (booster diaphragm/vacuum line issues)
• Increased stopping distance or inconsistent pedal feel
• Brake warning lights or ABS/ESC faults that require system bleed or calibration after repair

If you notice one or more of these symptoms, a professional diagnosis can confirm the faulty component and prevent replacing parts unnecessarily.

Price Ranges at a Glance

The following ranges reflect typical 2024–2025 U.S. pricing at independent shops; dealer service departments and premium brands often sit at the upper end.

• Master cylinder only: $250–$600 total (parts $60–$300; labor 1–2 hours)
• Vacuum brake booster only: $350–$900 total (parts $120–$500; labor 2–4 hours)
• Booster + master cylinder (vacuum type): $500–$1,600 total
• Hydroboost systems (common on heavy-duty trucks): $600–$1,400 total
• Electric booster/iBooster or integrated units (some hybrids/EVs and late-model vehicles): $1,500–$3,500+ total

Your actual cost depends on vehicle make/model, local labor rates, parts choice (OEM vs. aftermarket vs. remanufactured), and any extra work such as ABS bleeding or line replacement.

Cost Breakdown: Parts, Labor, and Add-ons

Here’s how the bill typically comes together.

• Parts:
  

  • Aftermarket master cylinder: $60–$200; OEM: $150–$400
  • Vacuum booster: $120–$350 aftermarket; $250–$600 OEM
  • Hydroboost unit: $250–$600 aftermarket; $400–$900 OEM
  • Electric/iBooster assemblies: $800–$2,200+ (often OEM-only)
  • Brake fluid and incidentals: $15–$40 (DOT 3/4), more for DOT 4 LV

• Labor:
  

  • Master cylinder: 1.0–2.0 hours
  • Vacuum booster: 2.0–4.0 hours (dash-side access can be tight)
  • Hydroboost: 2.0–4.0 hours (plus power steering bleed)
  • Electric/iBooster: 2.0–6.0 hours (plus calibration/programming)
  • ABS bleed with scan tool: +0.5–1.0 hour

• Labor rates (typical 2025): $110–$180/hr independent; $160–$250/hr dealer (higher in major metro areas)

Vehicles with cramped engine bays or advanced driver-assistance systems often need extra time for removal, bleeding, and recalibration, nudging the total toward the higher end.

Typical Real-World Examples

These examples illustrate common scenarios; exact pricing varies by region, shop, and parts availability.

• Compact sedan (e.g., Toyota Corolla/Honda Civic): Master only $300–$500; Booster only $450–$800; Both $650–$1,200
• Half-ton/full-size truck with hydroboost (e.g., Silverado/Sierra 1500 with certain packages, F-250/F-350, Ram 2500): Hydroboost unit $700–$1,200; With master cylinder $900–$1,500
• European luxury (e.g., BMW/Audi/Mercedes vacuum booster): Booster + master $900–$1,800; dealer pricing can exceed $2,000
• Hybrid/EV or advanced electric booster (e.g., Prius, some Honda/Toyota/Lexus, Tesla iBooster-style units): $1,500–$3,500+, especially if calibration or module programming is required

For late-model hybrids and EVs, the booster can be part of a larger integrated brake control unit, substantially increasing parts cost.

Should You Replace Both, or Just One?

Whether to replace both components depends on age, diagnosis, and labor overlap.

• Replace both when: The vehicle is high-mileage, access is labor-intensive, or both parts show wear/leaks. Combined replacement may save repeat labor.
• Replace master only when: Pedal sinks, external leaks at the master, or failed internal seals are confirmed, and booster tests fine.
• Replace booster only when: Pedal is hard, hissing is present, or vacuum assist tests fail, and the master holds pressure.
• Test basics first: Verify vacuum supply, check valves/hoses, and scan for ABS/ESC faults before committing.

A proper pressure/assist test and visual inspection can prevent unnecessary parts replacement and reduce cost.

Ways to Save—Without Compromising Safety

Brakes are critical, but you can still manage the budget with informed choices.

• Compare estimates from an ASE-certified independent shop and the dealer—parts and labor rates vary widely.
• Consider quality aftermarket or remanufactured units with solid warranties; OEM is advisable for complex integrated or electronic boosters.
• Ask about core charges on boosters and masters; returning the old unit can save $30–$150.
• Bundle services: A full brake fluid exchange is often discounted when done with the repair.
• Verify that the shop can perform ABS bleeding and, if needed, module calibration—doing it right once avoids repeat work.

Balancing reputable parts with experienced labor often provides the best long-term value and safety.

DIY Considerations

Skilled DIYers can handle some vehicles, but there are serious caveats.

• Brakes must be bled correctly; many vehicles require a scan tool to cycle ABS valves.
• Hydroboost units tie into the power steering—expect additional bleeding steps and fluid management.
• Electric/iBooster systems may require special procedures, depressurization, and calibrations; DIY is not recommended.
• Plan for 2–6 hours depending on access and experience; always use new fluid and avoid contamination.

If you lack the tools or ABS bleed capability, professional installation is the safer choice.

Frequently Added Line Items

These extras can appear on estimates, depending on condition and design.

• Brake fluid flush: $80–$150
• Vacuum hose/check valve or vacuum pump (if failed): $25–$400 parts
• Brake lines/fittings (if seized or corroded): $50–$300+ parts and labor
• Power steering fluid (hydroboost): $10–$40
• Calibration/programming for electronic boosters: 0.5–1.0 hour labor or fixed fee

Shops should call out these items before proceeding; they’re common but not always required.

Timeline and What to Expect

Most conventional booster/master jobs are same-day repairs once parts are in stock; 2–5 labor hours is typical. Integrated electric units and some trucks may require longer for calibration or additional bleeding. Always get a written estimate with parts brand, labor hours, and warranty terms.

Summary

Replacing a brake booster and master cylinder typically costs $500–$1,600 for conventional systems, $600–$1,400 for hydroboost trucks, and $1,500–$3,500+ for modern electric or integrated units. Final price hinges on vehicle type, parts choice, labor hours, and any electronic bleeding or calibration. A thorough diagnosis, clear estimate, and the right shop capabilities ensure a safe repair and predictable cost.