How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Distributor?

Expect to pay roughly $300 to $900 total in the U.S. to replace a distributor on most older vehicles, with parts typically $150 to $600 and labor $100 to $300 (about 1–2 hours). Rare or European applications can reach $1,000–$1,200+. Many modern cars don’t have distributors at all; if yours uses coil-on-plug ignition, the comparable repair would be ignition coil or sensor replacement rather than a distributor.

What You’re Paying For

Distributor replacement costs are a mix of parts, labor, and occasionally diagnostics or ancillary items. Understanding the line items helps you evaluate quotes and choose the right parts.

• Parts: Distributor assembly (new or remanufactured) $150–$600; cap/rotor $30–$120; plug wires (if applicable) $50–$200; O-ring/seal $5–$25.
• Labor: Typically 0.7–2.0 hours; U.S. shop rates often $90–$200/hour, higher at dealers or in major metros. Includes removal/installation and base timing adjustment where applicable.
• Diagnostics and incidentals: Inspection/scan fees $50–$200 (if needed), shop supplies and taxes vary by state/city.

Together, these items produce the out-the-door price; opting for OEM vs. aftermarket and adding tune-up parts can shift the total meaningfully.

Price Ranges by Vehicle and Situation

The final bill depends heavily on the vehicle and market. Here’s what owners commonly see for distributor-equipped cars and trucks.

• Common 1990s Japanese compacts/sedans: $300–$650 total.
• 1990s–early 2000s domestic V6/V8 trucks and SUVs: $400–$900 total.
• European, rare, or hard-to-source parts: $600–$1,200+ total.
• DIY (if comfortable setting timing): roughly $120–$450 in parts plus basic tools and a timing light.

These ranges reflect typical U.S. pricing in 2025; high-cost urban areas and dealership service departments trend toward the top end.

Factors That Affect the Quote

Several variables can push your estimate higher or lower. Being aware of them helps you ask the right questions when calling shops.

• Vehicle make, model, and engine access: Tight packaging can add labor time.
• Part choice: OEM or high-quality remanufactured parts cost more but may offer better reliability and warranties.
• Scope of the job: Adding cap/rotor and plug wires increases parts cost but can prevent repeat labor later.
• Condition issues: Corrosion, seized fasteners, or oil-soaked components can add time.
• Timing procedure: Some engines require careful base timing setup; others self-learn and are quicker.
• Regional labor rates: Coastal metros and dealer shops generally charge more than rural independents.
• Related faults: A leaking distributor shaft seal or failing cam/crank sensor (if integrated) may add parts and labor.

If you’re comparing quotes, ask for a line-item breakdown so you can see how these factors are accounted for.

Do You Actually Have a Distributor?

Many vehicles from the 2000s onward use distributorless ignition (coil packs or coil-on-plug). If your car lacks a distributor, you’ll be quoted for different parts and procedures.

• Most modern vehicles (especially post-2005) use coil-on-plug systems rather than distributors.
• If you see a round cap with multiple spark plug wires on top of the engine, you likely have a distributor.
• If your engine has individual ignition coils atop each spark plug, a distributor replacement does not apply.

Confirming your ignition type upfront prevents confusion and ensures you receive accurate estimates.

Symptoms and Diagnosis

Before replacing a distributor, verify that it’s actually the culprit. Some symptoms overlap with bad coils, crank/cam sensors, or wiring issues.

• Hard starting, random stalling, or intermittent/no spark conditions.
• Misfires under load or in wet weather, rough idle, backfiring.
• Cracked or moisture-contaminated cap/rotor; carbon tracking.
• Excessive distributor shaft play or oil inside the housing.
• Fault codes related to cam/crank signals (depending on system) or ignition timing irregularities.

A quick inspection and scan can confirm whether replacement is necessary or if a cheaper fix (like cap/rotor or wiring) will solve the problem.

How Long It Takes

Most distributor replacements take about 1 to 2 hours. Simple, front-engine layouts may be 30–60 minutes; tight transverse V6 or specialty applications can run 2–3 hours, especially if timing setup is involved.

Money-Saving Tips

You can often reduce costs without compromising reliability by making informed choices and planning the service.

• Ask about quality remanufactured units with solid warranties.
• Replace cap/rotor (and wires if worn) during the job to avoid duplicate labor later.
• Provide your VIN to ensure correct parts and avoid delays.
• Get 2–3 quotes from reputable shops; compare labor hours and part brands.
• Avoid blanket “tune-ups” unless needed; target the confirmed fault.
• DIY only if you’re comfortable marking rotor/gear position and setting base timing with a timing light.

Balancing part quality with a clear scope of work typically yields the best long-term value.

Example Out-the-Door Estimates (2025, U.S.)

1998 Honda Civic (Distributor-Equipped)

This scenario assumes an independent shop in a mid-cost region with a remanufactured unit.

• Reman distributor: $220
• Cap and rotor: $45
• Labor: 1.2 hours @ $140/hr = $168
• Shop supplies/tax: ~$30
• Estimated total: ~$463

Opting for OEM could add $100–$200 to the parts cost, moving the total into the $550–$650 range.

1995 Chevy Silverado 5.7L V8

Trucks often benefit from replacing wires along with the distributor components.

• Distributor assembly: $260
• Cap/rotor/wires: $120
• Labor: 1.5 hours @ $150/hr = $225
• Shop supplies/tax: ~$40
• Estimated total: ~$645

Heavy corrosion or timing complications can push this job closer to $750–$900.

1994 Toyota Pickup (22RE)

This engine typically has straightforward access and a replaceable O-ring.

• Reman/OEM distributor: $320
• O-ring/seal: $10
• Labor: 1.0 hour @ $130/hr = $130
• Shop supplies/tax: ~$25
• Estimated total: ~$485

Adding cap/rotor/wires and choosing OEM parts can raise the estimate into the $550–$700 range.

Bottom Line

For vehicles that still use a distributor, plan on $300–$900 for a complete replacement, with higher totals for premium brands or challenging access. Confirm that your vehicle actually has a distributor, verify the diagnosis, and compare quotes that clearly list parts, labor hours, and whether timing setup is included.

Summary

Distributor replacement generally runs $300–$900 in the U.S., driven by parts ($150–$600) and 1–2 hours of labor. Prices vary by vehicle, part quality, and regional labor rates, and can exceed $1,000 for specialty applications. Ensure your car actually uses a distributor, confirm the diagnosis, and seek detailed, comparable quotes to get the best value.