What It Costs to Replace a Radiator in a 2008 Honda Accord
Expect to pay about $450–$1,000 at an independent shop or $800–$1,300 at a dealership to replace the radiator in a 2008 Honda Accord, depending on engine (I4 vs. V6), parts choice (aftermarket vs. OEM), labor rates, and any add-on parts like hoses or a thermostat. DIY parts and supplies typically run $180–$450. Below is a detailed breakdown to help you budget and get an accurate quote.
Contents
What Goes Into the Price
Radiator replacement costs are driven by the part itself, labor time, fluids, and small extras such as clamps or disposal fees. The 2008 Accord came with a 2.4L four-cylinder or a 3.5L V6; the V6 usually takes a bit more time and has pricier parts.
- Radiator (aftermarket): $120–$220 (I4), $180–$300 (V6)
- Radiator (OEM Honda): $300–$420 (I4), $380–$520 (V6)
- Labor time: about 1.8–2.5 hours (I4) or 2.5–3.5 hours (V6)
- Labor rate: $120–$180/hr at independents; $170–$250/hr at dealerships
- Coolant (Honda Type 2 premix): $25–$70 total, depending on quantity
- ATF top-off (automatics only, Honda DW-1): $10–$18 if needed
- Shop supplies, taxes, disposal fees: typically $10–$40
Combine those numbers and most owners see totals near the middle of the ranges; the upper end applies when choosing OEM parts at higher-rate shops or when extra items are replaced.
Price Ranges by Shop Type and Engine
Independent Shop vs. Dealership
Independent shops commonly land in the $450–$900 range, depending on local labor rates and parts selection. Dealerships typically quote $800–$1,300 because of higher labor rates and frequent use of OEM radiators, but they may include longer parts-and-labor warranties.
Four-Cylinder vs. V6 Accords
The 2.4L four-cylinder (most common) is generally quicker and cheaper: parts are less, and labor is often under 2.5 hours. The 3.5L V6 can add 0.5–1.0 hour of labor and a higher radiator price, nudging totals up by $100–$250. Both engines usually allow radiator removal without disconnecting A/C lines, so refrigerant service is not normally required.
Additional Items Shops May Recommend
Shops often suggest replacing age-related wear items while the system is open. These are optional but can prevent future leaks and repeat labor.
- Upper/lower radiator hoses: $20–$60 each
- Hose clamps: $4–$12 for a set
- Thermostat and gasket: $30–$70 part; add ~0.5–1.0 hour labor if done separately
- Radiator cap: $12–$25
- Cooling fan assembly or shroud (if cracked/noisy): $120–$250 plus labor
- Trans cooler line O-rings/fittings (automatics): $5–$15
Approving these while the system is drained can save a second service visit, though you can defer items that test within spec and show no wear.
How to Get an Accurate Quote
Because prices vary by region and parts choice, use these steps to pin down a reliable out-the-door estimate before booking.
- Provide your VIN and engine (I4 or V6) so the shop prices the correct radiator.
- Ask for two quotes: aftermarket vs. OEM radiator, with part brands listed.
- Confirm labor hours and the shop’s hourly rate; request an itemized estimate.
- Verify what’s included: coolant, clamps, ATF top-off (automatics), shop supplies, taxes, and disposal fees.
- Ask about optional items (hoses, thermostat, cap) and their incremental cost.
- Request warranty terms on parts and labor; 12/12 is common, longer at dealers.
- Confirm turnaround time and whether any A/C work is anticipated (it usually isn’t).
With an itemized quote, you can compare apples to apples across shops and decide whether OEM parts or a longer warranty justify any price premium.
DIY Considerations
Handy owners can often complete this job in an afternoon. Costs typically run $180–$450 for the radiator, coolant, and small supplies, but expect a learning curve and plan for safe coolant handling and proper system bleeding.
- Tools/supplies: metric socket set, pliers, drain pan, spill-proof funnel, new coolant (Honda Type 2), and optionally a vacuum fill tool for easier purging.
- Notes: Avoid opening A/C lines; cap transmission cooler fittings on automatics to minimize fluid loss and top off with Honda DW-1 if needed.
- Precautions: Dispose of old coolant properly; keep it away from pets. Check for leaks, verify fan operation, and ensure heat works after bleeding.
If you lack tools or aren’t comfortable bleeding the system, professional service may be more economical than revisiting issues like overheating or trapped air.
Recent Pricing Trends (2024–2025)
Parts availability for 2008 Accords is strong, with aftermarket radiators widely stocked and OEM units still available. After supply-chain improvements, radiator prices have stabilized, but shop labor rates continued to rise in 2024–2025, especially in large metro areas. Net effect: total job costs are modestly higher year over year, mainly due to labor.
Summary
Budget $450–$1,000 at an independent shop or $800–$1,300 at a dealer to replace a 2008 Honda Accord radiator, with DIY costs around $180–$450. The four-cylinder is generally cheaper than the V6, and choosing aftermarket parts can shave a few hundred dollars. Get an itemized estimate that confirms parts brand, labor hours, coolant and fluids, fees, and warranty to avoid surprises.
Is it cheaper to replace or repair a radiator?
In general, it is cheaper to repair a radiator than to replace it. It costs anywhere between $250 to $750 to repair a radiator, depending on what the issue is.
How much is a new radiator for a 2008 Honda Accord?
The average cost for a Honda Accord Radiator Replacement is between $859 and $1,032. Labor costs are estimated between $240 and $353 while parts are priced between $618 and $679. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your unique location.
What is the most common problem with a 2008 Honda Accord?
Top 2008 Honda Accord Problems
- Problems Shifting Into 3rd Gear.
- Bad rear hub/bearing unit.
- Check Engine Light for Running Rough and Difficulty Starting.
- Check Engine Light Due to Failed Air Fuel Sensor or Oxygen Sensor.
- Plugged Moon Roof Drains May Cause Water Leak.
Is it worth replacing a radiator in a car?
Extent of Damage: If the radiator has minor leaks or clogs, it may be more cost-effective to repair it. However, extensive corrosion or significant damage might warrant replacement. Age of the Radiator: If the radiator is old and inefficient, it might be better to replace it with a newer, more efficient model.


