How Much Does It Cost to Replace Brake Assist?

For most vehicles, replacing the brake assist (typically the brake booster) costs about $350–$900 for traditional vacuum systems, $500–$1,200 for hydroboost systems (common on some trucks), and $1,200–$3,000 for electric brake boosters used in many hybrids and EVs. The exact price depends on the vehicle, booster type, labor rates in your area, and whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts. Below is a detailed breakdown to help you budget and choose the right repair option.

What “Brake Assist” Usually Means

In everyday repair quotes, “brake assist” typically refers to the brake booster—the component that provides power assistance to reduce pedal effort. There are three main types: vacuum brake boosters (most gas vehicles), hydroboost units (often on diesels/heavy-duty trucks using power steering pressure), and electric brake boosters (common on hybrids/EVs and some newer luxury/performance models). In some cases, a shop may also use “brake assist” to describe related parts such as an electric vacuum pump, a brake pressure sensor, or an integrated ABS/booster module.

Typical Cost Ranges by System Type

The following list outlines average parts-and-labor price ranges by booster type, including typical labor times. Your final bill can vary based on vehicle design complexity and local labor rates.

• Vacuum brake booster (most gasoline cars/SUVs): Parts $120–$650 (aftermarket vs. OEM), labor 2.0–3.5 hours; total $350–$1,200 (most commonly $350–$900).
• Hydroboost (many diesel trucks, some SUVs): Parts $200–$700, labor 2.5–4.0 hours; total $500–$1,200. A power steering fluid flush ($80–$150) is often recommended.
• Electric brake booster or integrated booster/ABS module (hybrids/EVs and some newer vehicles): Parts $800–$2,300+, labor 3–6 hours plus scan-tool programming/bleeding; total $1,200–$3,000. Certain models can exceed this if modules are dealer-only.
• Related components sometimes mistaken for “brake assist”:
  – Electric vacuum pump: $250–$700 total
  – Brake pedal switch or pressure sensor: $80–$350 total
  – Master cylinder (if replaced with booster): $250–$650 additional

These figures reflect typical retail repair prices in the U.S. as of 2025. Shops in high-cost metro areas can run 10–25% higher, while independent shops in smaller markets may be lower.

Model-Specific Ballpark Examples

Here are representative ranges for popular vehicles to illustrate how prices vary by model and system type.

• Toyota Camry (vacuum booster): $450–$850 total.
• Honda Civic/Accord (vacuum booster): $500–$900 total.
• Ford F-150 (vacuum booster, most trims): $500–$900 total.
• Ford Super Duty 6.7L (hydroboost): $700–$1,100 total.
• Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (vacuum) / 2500HD diesel (hydroboost): $500–$950 (1500), $700–$1,200 (2500HD).
• Toyota Prius (electric booster/actuator assembly): $1,600–$2,600 total.
• Tesla Model 3/Y (electric iBooster): $1,200–$2,100 total.
• Subaru Outback (vacuum booster): $500–$900 total.
• BMW i3 / some late-model hybrids (electric booster): $1,400–$2,400 total.

Actual quotes depend on VIN-specific parts pricing and whether programming/bleeding procedures are required. Always ask the shop to itemize parts, labor time, and any calibration fees.

Labor Time and Parts Pricing

Most vacuum boosters book at 2–3.5 hours; hydroboost units at 2.5–4.0 hours; electric boosters at 3–6 hours due to bleeding and initialization. Labor rates typically range $100–$175 per hour at independent shops and higher at dealerships. Aftermarket or remanufactured boosters can reduce parts cost significantly compared to OEM, but some newer electric units are only available as OEM and may require dealer-level tooling for setup.

Common Add-Ons and Related Services

Depending on condition and design, shops may recommend additional parts or services alongside a booster replacement.

• Brake fluid exchange/ABS bleed: $100–$160; often necessary after booster or master cylinder work.
• Master cylinder replacement: $250–$650 additional if leaking or contaminated, or if the assembly is integrated.
• Power steering fluid flush (hydroboost systems): $80–$150.
• Vacuum hose/check valve or vacuum pump (if the root cause is vacuum supply): $40–$350 for hoses/valves; $250–$700 for pumps.
• One-time-use fasteners/seals and shop supplies: $10–$40.

Approving these items can prevent repeat repairs and ensure proper pedal feel, especially where contamination or air ingress is suspected.

Symptoms That Point to a Failing Brake Assist

If you’re unsure whether the booster is the culprit, these signs often indicate assist problems and can help guide diagnostics.

• Very hard brake pedal requiring much more effort than normal.
• Hissing sound near the pedal or engine bay (vacuum leak) or brake fluid/power steering leaks (hydroboost).
• Longer stopping distances or inconsistent pedal feel.
• Warning lights or messages: Brake, ABS, or stability control, especially on hybrids/EVs with electric boosters.
• Engine idle changes when pressing the brake (vacuum leak indicator).

Because braking performance is directly affected, prompt inspection is essential; many shops apply a diagnostic fee ($100–$180) toward the repair if you proceed.

What Drives the Price—and How to Save

Understanding cost drivers can help you lower the bill without compromising safety.

• System type and accessibility: Electric boosters and tight engine bays add time and tooling.
• Parts choice: Aftermarket/reman can save 15–40% on vacuum/hydroboost units; electric boosters may be OEM-only.
• Labor rate: Independent shops often charge less than dealers; verify they can perform required ABS bleeding/programming.
• Bundling: If the master cylinder is marginal, replacing it with the booster can save labor overlap.
• Warranty and core credits: Reman units often carry 12 mo/12k mi and may require returning your old unit (core) for a refund.
• Regional pricing: Expect higher quotes in large coastal metros; request two to three written estimates.

Ask for an itemized quote that lists parts brand, labor hours, shop fees, and any calibration charges. Confirm whether the diagnostic fee will be credited to the repair.

Safety and Drivability

If your brake pedal is extremely hard, travel is excessive, or the vehicle displays brake warnings, limit driving and consider a tow. Loss of assist increases stopping distances and can be hazardous, especially at low vacuum or with failing electric units.

Warranty and Quality Expectations

Most shops provide a 12-month/12,000-mile parts-and-labor warranty; some premium/OEM parts carry longer warranties. Keep your receipt and verify coverage, especially for electric boosters that require calibration.

Summary

Expect $350–$900 to replace a conventional vacuum brake booster, $500–$1,200 for hydroboost units, and $1,200–$3,000 for electric boosters on hybrids and EVs. Prices vary with system type, vehicle design, and labor rates. Get an itemized quote, verify whether ABS bleeding or programming is included, and address any related issues (fluid flush, hoses, vacuum pump) at the same time for best results.

Is it expensive to replace a brake booster?

A brake booster replacement generally costs between $300 and $1,300, with most jobs falling on the lower end of that range. This price includes parts and labor, with part costs typically ranging from $150 to $300 and labor at $100 to $200, although these figures can vary based on the vehicle’s make and model, and the accessibility of the brake booster. 
Cost Breakdown 

• Parts: Expect to pay roughly $150 to $300 for a replacement brake booster, though prices can vary significantly.
• Labor: Labor costs for this job are often in the $100 to $200 range, but can be higher on some vehicles.

Factors Influencing Cost

• Vehicle Type: Opens in new tabThe make and model of your car are the most significant factors influencing the cost, as parts and labor prices differ between vehicles. 
• Brake Booster Accessibility: Opens in new tabSome brake boosters are easier to access than others. Vehicles with parts that are difficult to reach may require more labor to replace the booster, increasing the overall cost. 
• Remanufactured vs. OEM Parts: Opens in new tabYou may save money by choosing a remanufactured brake booster instead of an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part, but prices can still vary. 

What the Job Entails
A brake booster replacement usually involves unbolting the old part from its connections to the brake pedal linkage and the firewall, and then installing a new one. On some vehicles, you might need to remove trim pieces to access the booster. 
When to See a Professional
If you notice your brakes becoming harder to push, it could be a sign of a faulty brake booster. It is essential to have your braking system inspected by a professional mechanic.

Is brake booster replacement worth it?

Is It Worth Replacing the Brake Booster? Yes! A faulty brake booster weakens your car’s braking power, requiring immense pressure on the brake pedals to stop or even slow down. This isn’t just inconvenient — it’s unsafe, especially in emergencies.

Can I drive without brake assist?

Is it safe to drive without a brake booster? No, it is not safe because in order to stop the car, you’d have to apply a lot more force. To slow down even a little without a power brake booster, you’d have to depress the brake pedal fairly hard.

How many hours does it take to replace a brake booster?

It affects the pedal feel and brake performance. We follow manufacturer specifications exactly. On a 2016 Nissan Altima, replacing the brake booster can take 2-3 hours. After installation, we bleed the brake system to remove any air.