How Much Does It Cost to Replace Engine (Ignition) Coils in 2025?

In the U.S. today, replacing a single ignition coil generally costs $120–$350 at an independent shop and $250–$600+ at a dealership, depending on the vehicle and access. Replacing all coils typically runs $250–$900 on a 4‑cylinder and $400–$1,500+ on V6/V8 engines. Parts range from $25–$100 per coil for quality aftermarket and $80–$250 for OEM; labor usually takes 0.5–3.0 hours at $100–$200 per hour, and diagnostic fees of $50–$150 may apply.

What You’re Paying For

The total bill is a mix of parts, labor time, and diagnostics. Here’s what that typically includes and why it varies.

• Parts: Individual coil-on-plug units, coil packs (serving multiple cylinders), or plug boots; OEM vs. aftermarket pricing differs significantly.
• Labor: Access varies by engine layout—inline-4 engines are usually fast; some transverse V6s require intake manifold removal for rear-bank coils.
• Diagnostics: Shops often charge to confirm a misfire and pinpoint the failing coil; fees are sometimes waived if you proceed with repairs.
• Related items: Spark plugs, boots, gaskets, and shop supplies are frequently added when it’s prudent to do the job once.

Because access and parts choices differ widely by vehicle, two seemingly similar jobs can land in very different price brackets.

Typical Price Ranges

Single Coil Replacement

For most mainstream vehicles with coil-on-plug systems, a single coil replacement is straightforward and quick when access is good.

Typical pricing:

• Parts: $25–$100 aftermarket; $80–$250 OEM per coil
• Labor: 0.5–1.0 hours for accessible engines; up to 2.0+ hours if access is tight
• Total: $120–$350 at independent shops; $250–$600+ at dealerships

On some luxury or tightly packaged engines, the total can exceed these ranges due to higher part costs and longer labor times.

Replacing All Coils

Changing all coils at once can prevent repeat visits, especially on high-mileage vehicles or engines with hard-to-reach “rear bank” cylinders.

• 4‑cylinder (four coils): $250–$900 at shops, depending on parts and access
• V6/V8 (six or eight coils): $400–$1,500+ at shops; higher if intake removal is required
• DIY parts for a full set: $120–$600 for most mainstream models; $300–$1,000 for some European/luxury vehicles

The labor portion often doesn’t scale linearly with the number of coils; once access is gained, replacing additional coils adds minimal time.

Coil Packs (Waste-Spark Systems)

Some vehicles use one or two coil packs to fire multiple cylinders, which changes the cost dynamic.

• Parts: $80–$300 per pack (some vehicles use two)
• Labor: 0.5–1.0 hour when packs are accessible
• Total: $180–$500+ depending on pack price and shop rate

When a coil pack fails, replacement covers multiple cylinders at once, but parts can be pricier than a single plug-top coil.

Real-World Cost Examples

The following examples illustrate typical ranges for popular vehicles; exact pricing varies by region, parts chosen, and shop rates.

• 2016 Toyota Camry 2.5L (single coil): Parts $40–$160 (aftermarket vs. OEM); labor 0.5 hr; total $120–$260 independent, $220–$400 dealer.
• 2018 Ford F‑150 3.5L EcoBoost (single coil): Parts $45–$120; labor ~0.8–1.0 hr; total $180–$360 independent, $300–$550 dealer.
• 2017 BMW 330i (B48) (single coil): Parts $70–$200; labor ~0.6 hr; total $210–$420 independent, $320–$600 dealer.
• 2014 Chevy Traverse 3.6L (rear-bank coil): Parts $40–$110; labor 2.0–3.0 hrs if intake removal required; total $300–$650+ independent.

Shopping parts options (quality aftermarket vs. OEM) and choosing an independent specialist can materially change the final number.

What Affects the Price

Several factors drive the spread between an inexpensive fix and a costly repair.

• Engine layout and access: Inline-4 engines are fastest; transverse V6 rear-bank coils can be labor-intensive.
• Parts choice: OEM costs more; reputable aftermarket brands can be 30–60% cheaper with similar performance.
• Shop type and rate: Independent shops often charge $100–$160/hr; dealers $150–$250/hr.
• Diagnostics: $50–$150, sometimes credited if you approve the repair.
• Add-on work: Spark plugs, boots, and gaskets add parts and labor but may prevent repeat visits.
• Region: Urban/coastal markets tend to have higher labor rates than rural areas.

Combining coil replacement with scheduled spark plug service is often the most cost-effective approach, especially on engines with difficult access.

DIY vs. Professional Replacement

Many ignition coils are accessible with basic tools, but not all engines are DIY-friendly. Consider these points before diving in.

• DIY pros: Save labor costs; simple on many 4‑cyl engines; immediate resolution if you have parts on hand.
• DIY cons: Risk of misdiagnosis; torque specs and connector care matter; some engines require manifold removal or special procedures.
• Pro shop pros: Accurate diagnostics, quality parts sourcing, and warranty on parts/labor.
• Pro shop cons: Higher upfront cost and potential upsells.

If access is straightforward and you’re comfortable with basic wrenching, DIY can cut the bill in half; otherwise, professional service is prudent.

When to Replace Coils

Coils commonly fail with age, heat, or oil intrusion. Watch for these warning signs.

• Check Engine light with misfire codes (P0301–P0308) or coil-specific codes
• Rough idle, hesitation under load, poor fuel economy
• Hard starting or stalling
• Visible cracking on coil housings or oil in plug wells

A quick swap test—moving a suspected coil to another cylinder and seeing if the misfire follows—can confirm a single bad coil.

Related and Hidden Costs

Depending on the vehicle and situation, the final invoice can include more than the coil itself.

• Spark plugs and boots: Often replaced concurrently; add $40–$200 in parts plus modest labor.
• Gaskets/seals: Intake manifold gaskets if removal is required; $20–$80 in parts.
• Diagnostics and taxes: $50–$150 for testing; local taxes and shop fees vary.
• Software updates: Rarely needed for coils; typically $0 unless addressing related drivability issues.

Bundling coils with scheduled spark plug service can reduce labor overlap and limit future downtime.

Should You Replace All Coils at Once?

It’s not mandatory to replace every coil when only one fails, but context matters.

• Replace one coil: Sensible for newer, low-mileage vehicles when access is easy and other coils test fine.
• Replace a bank or full set: Consider on high-mileage vehicles, when multiple coils are failing, or when labor access is costly (rear bank V6).
• Preventive approach: Pair with new spark plugs if they’re due; heat-stressed coils and old plugs can accelerate misfires.

A targeted approach usually saves money, but a full set can be smart insurance when labor access is the primary cost driver.

Warranty and Quality Notes

Warranty coverage can influence total value even if the upfront price is higher.

• Aftermarket: Many brands offer 1–3 years; some retailers offer limited lifetime warranties.
• OEM: Commonly 12 months/12,000 miles when bought over the counter; longer if installed by a dealer under certain programs.
• Shop labor warranty: Frequently 12 months/12,000 miles at independent shops; varies by region.

Buying reputable brands and keeping receipts simplifies future claims and avoids repeat failures.

Time Required

Replacement time spans from quick to involved depending on the engine.

• Accessible inline-4: 0.5–1.0 hour for one or all coils
• Most V6/V8: 1.0–2.0 hours if accessible; 2.0–3.0+ hours if intake removal is necessary
• Coil pack systems: 0.5–1.0 hour in many cases

Shops often price by flat-rate time; ask for an estimate that itemizes labor hours and parts.

Ways to Save

Targeted choices can lower your out-of-pocket costs without sacrificing reliability.

• Choose quality aftermarket coils from reputable brands when appropriate.
• Bundle coil work with spark plug replacement to avoid duplicate labor.
• Get two to three quotes, including an independent specialist for your make.
• Ask if the diagnostic fee will be credited toward the repair.
• Inspect and fix oil leaks into plug wells to prevent new coil failures.

A bit of planning—especially around maintenance intervals—can turn an urgent repair into a controlled, lower-cost service.

Summary

Expect to pay $120–$350 to replace a single ignition coil at an independent shop and $250–$600+ at a dealership, with higher totals on luxury or hard-to-access engines. Full-set replacements typically range from $250–$900 for 4‑cylinders and $400–$1,500+ for V6/V8s. Parts choices (OEM vs. aftermarket), engine access, and labor rates drive most of the variation, and bundling coils with spark plug service can save time and money.

Can you drive a car with bad coils?

No, you should not drive with a bad ignition coil, as it can lead to further damage to your engine and exhaust system, potentially causing costly repairs. Symptoms like a rough engine, misfires, poor acceleration, and a lit check engine light are indicators of a faulty coil, and driving with a bad one can result in unburned fuel damaging the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors, diluting engine oil, and causing premature engine wear. 
Why you shouldn’t drive with a bad ignition coil:

• Damaged Catalytic Converter and Oxygen Sensors: Opens in new tabUnburned fuel from a misfiring cylinder can enter the exhaust system and ignite in the hot catalytic converter, leading to its failure and damage to oxygen sensors. 
• Engine Oil Contamination: Opens in new tabRaw fuel can bypass the piston rings and enter the engine oil, diluting it and severely compromising its lubricating properties. 
• Premature Engine Wear: Opens in new tabThe lack of proper lubrication from contaminated oil can lead to increased wear on cylinder walls, piston rings, and crankshaft bearings, potentially causing major engine failure. 
• Engine Instability: Opens in new tabA misfiring cylinder can act like a brake, causing the engine to vibrate, run unevenly, and put excessive stress on internal components. 

What to do if you suspect a bad ignition coil:

• Get it Diagnosed: Have the ignition coils and the entire ignition system checked by a mechanic to confirm the issue. 
• Replace Promptly: Replace the faulty ignition coil as soon as possible to prevent further, more expensive damage to your engine and exhaust components. 

Why are engine coils so expensive?

Why are ignition coils so expensive? These are precision components. As a typical spark plug is fired eight times a second, ignition coil packs have to be well made. Being tempted by a low-quality part is a false economy.

Are engine coils expensive to replace?

OEM (Motorcraft) coils typically run about $75 per coil. So that’s about $450 in parts. But most shops will mark up parts, sometimes upwards of 100%. Labor time is next to nothing, it’s 0.8 hours for all of them, it’s not a labor intensive job at all.

How do I know if my engine coil is bad?

Symptoms of a bad ignition coil include the illuminated check engine light, rough or erratic engine idling, engine misfires, backfiring, difficulty starting the engine, reduced power and poor fuel economy, and even engine stalling. A foul smell of gas from the exhaust can also be a sign of unburned fuel due to a misfiring cylinder. These symptoms indicate the ignition system is not consistently creating the spark needed for combustion, which can lead to more severe engine damage if left unaddressed. 
Here are the common symptoms of a faulty ignition coil:

• Check Engine Light: The most common initial sign of an ignition coil problem is a glowing check engine light on your dashboard. 
• Engine Misfiring: The engine may cough, sputter, or vibrate due to a cylinder not firing correctly because the ignition coil isn’t providing enough voltage for the spark plug. 
• Rough Idling: The engine’s smooth rumble at idle will turn into a juddering, faltering, and noisy experience, especially when the car is stationary. 
• Difficulty Starting: A failing ignition coil can make it harder for the engine to start, requiring the ignition system to work overtime. 
• Engine Stalling: In severe cases, a misfire from a faulty ignition coil can cause the engine to stall while driving. 
• Reduced Power and Fuel Economy: You might notice a significant loss of power and slower acceleration because the engine isn’t combusting fuel efficiently. 
• Backfiring and Gas Smell: When fuel doesn’t ignite in a cylinder, it can exit the exhaust and ignite, causing loud pops (backfiring) and a strong smell of gas.