How Much Is a Car Ignition Replacement?
In the U.S. as of 2025, expect to pay about $120–$450 to replace an ignition switch, $150–$500 for an ignition lock cylinder, $350–$900 for a complete ignition assembly, and $400–$1,200+ for push‑to‑start/electronic modules; taxes, programming, and towing may add more. Prices vary by vehicle make, security features, labor rates, and whether you use a dealership, independent shop, or locksmith.
Contents
What “ignition replacement” can mean
“Ignition replacement” can refer to different parts of the starting system. Costs depend on which component fails and how complex your car’s anti-theft system is.
The list below explains the main components involved in ignition service and their typical price ranges, including parts and labor.
- Ignition lock cylinder (where a physical key turns): Parts $75–$250; labor 1.0–2.5 hours; typical total $150–$500. Rekeying to match your existing key can add $30–$90; transponder key programming can add $75–$180.
- Ignition switch (electrical portion behind the lock): Parts $30–$200; labor 0.7–2.0 hours; typical total $120–$450.
- Complete ignition assembly (housing + lock cylinder + switch): Parts $200–$600; labor 2–4 hours; typical total $350–$900.
- Push-button/start systems and electronic steering lock modules: Often require programming/initialization; typical total $400–$1,200+, higher on luxury brands.
These ranges reflect common U.S. labor rates ($95–$180/hour) and widely available parts. Premium brands, sophisticated anti-theft systems, and limited parts availability can push costs to the upper end.
Cost factors that drive the price
Several variables determine where your quote lands within or outside the typical ranges.
- Vehicle make/model and security features: Transponder keys, smart keys, immobilizers, and electronic steering locks increase parts and programming time.
- Labor rate and book time: Shops bill by regional rates and manufacturer labor guides; steering-column disassembly can add hours.
- Key programming and rekeying: Matching the new cylinder to your existing key and programming transponders/fobs adds fees.
- Where you go: Dealerships tend to charge more; independent shops and mobile locksmiths can be cheaper and faster for lock-cylinder issues.
- Towing or mobile service: Local tow runs $80–$200; some locksmiths waive a modest service-call fee with repair.
- Parts choice: OEM parts generally cost more than quality aftermarket; used/reman can save, but verify compatibility and warranty.
- Availability and complexity: Backordered parts or modules requiring factory coding can delay repairs and raise costs.
Understanding these drivers helps you compare quotes on an apples-to-apples basis and avoid surprises from programming or towing add-ons.
Typical price examples (U.S., 2025)
Real-world ranges vary by region and vehicle condition, but the examples below illustrate what owners commonly pay for parts plus labor.
- 2008–2016 Toyota Corolla: Lock cylinder $220–$420; ignition switch $150–$300; complete assembly $350–$650.
- 2006–2014 Ford F-150 (keyed): Lock cylinder $250–$500; ignition switch $180–$380; complete assembly $400–$750.
- 2012–2018 Honda Civic: Lock cylinder $230–$450; ignition switch $150–$320; complete assembly $380–$700.
- 2015–2021 Subaru Outback (keyed trims): Lock cylinder $260–$500; ignition switch $170–$350.
- 2014–2019 Mercedes-Benz C-Class (push-to-start/ESL): Electronic steering lock or start module $700–$1,200+ with programming.
- 2015–2022 BMW 3 Series (push-to-start): CAS/FEM-related start module or steering lock service typically $650–$1,100+ with coding.
Luxury models with integrated electronic locks and coding requirements skew higher; common mainstream vehicles often fall in the midrange.
How long the job takes
Time on the rack or at your curb usually runs 30 minutes to 3 hours. Ignition switches can be under an hour on some cars; lock cylinders often take 1–2.5 hours. Complete assemblies or push-to-start modules may require 2–4 hours including programming. Mobile locksmiths often complete cylinder jobs same-day.
DIY versus professional
Some ignition repairs can be done at home, but modern security systems make professional service the safer bet for many vehicles.
Use the points below to decide whether DIY makes sense for your situation.
- Older keyed vehicles without immobilizers: DIY is feasible with basic tools; parts $30–$120. Disconnect the battery and mind airbag wiring in the column.
- Vehicles with transponders/smart keys: DIY often requires scan tools and security codes; a misstep can immobilize the car. Professional service recommended.
- Rekeying considerations: Replacing a cylinder without rekeying means one key for the doors and another for the ignition; rekeying solves this for a small added cost.
If you’re not equipped to program keys or deal with steering-column airbags, a locksmith or shop can save time and reduce risk.
Warranties, recalls, and insurance
Before paying out of pocket, check for coverage. Some extended warranties include ignition components. Certain models (for example, the GM ignition switch recalls from the 2000s–2010s) were repaired at no cost—use your VIN to check open recalls at NHTSA.gov/recalls. Comprehensive insurance may cover vandalism-related ignition damage, and roadside plans (AAA, some credit cards) can offset towing or locksmith fees.
How to get a solid quote
Clear information helps shops price the job accurately and avoid hidden fees.
Follow the steps below when calling a dealership, independent shop, or locksmith.
- Provide your VIN and a description of symptoms (key won’t turn, no crank, intermittent power, etc.).
- Ask for a written parts-and-labor breakdown, including programming, rekeying, taxes, and any shop or mobile fees.
- Confirm parts type (OEM vs aftermarket) and availability; ask about lead times.
- Verify whether key/fob programming and immobilizer relearns are included.
- Ask about towing or mobile service options and charges.
- Get the warranty terms on parts and labor (12/12 is common; some offer longer).
A detailed quote lets you compare options fairly and prevents last-minute add-ons for programming or keys.
Ways to save
You can trim costs without sacrificing reliability by making a few smart choices.
- Get a mobile locksmith quote, especially for lock-cylinder issues—they can be faster and often cheaper than dealers.
- Compare at least two estimates from a dealer and an independent shop.
- Select quality aftermarket parts with a solid warranty when OEM premiums are high.
- Have the new cylinder keyed to your existing key to avoid rekeying doors or carrying two keys.
- Leverage AAA or employer/member discounts and ask about coupons or off-peak scheduling.
These steps often shave $50–$200 from the final bill and reduce downtime.
Bottom line
For most cars, ignition replacement runs $120–$500 for a single component and $350–$900 for a full assembly, with push-to-start systems from $400 to over $1,200. Your exact price depends on the part that failed, your vehicle’s security system, labor rates, and where you have the work done. Gather a detailed quote with programming and towing included, and consider a locksmith for cylinder-related fixes.
Summary
Ignition replacement costs vary widely: $120–$450 for switches, $150–$500 for lock cylinders, $350–$900 for full assemblies, and $400–$1,200+ for push-to-start modules. Factors include vehicle security features, labor time, and service provider. Check for recalls and warranties, compare quotes, and consider locksmiths to save money without compromising quality.
What are signs of a failing ignition switch?
Symptoms of a failing ignition switch include a car that won’t start, won’t crank, or suddenly stalls while driving, as well as difficulty turning or removing the key and intermittent electrical issues like flickering dashboard lights or non-functional accessories. You may also notice the starter motor is silent when you try to start the car.
Engine & Starting Issues
- No-Start Condition: The engine doesn’t start when you turn the key.
- No Crank/Silent Starter: The engine doesn’t even attempt to crank, and you don’t hear the starter motor engage.
- Stalling: The engine starts but then immediately stalls, or it stalls while driving.
- Difficulty Starting: The car takes multiple attempts or struggles to start.
Key & Ignition Issues
- Key Won’t Turn: You may have difficulty turning the key in the ignition, or the key might get stuck in the ignition.
- Key Won’t Insert: The key may not even go into the ignition smoothly or at all.
Electrical & Accessory Problems
- Flickering Lights: Dashboard warning lights may flicker or not turn on.
- Accessory Malfunctions: Electrical accessories like the radio, wipers, or power windows may not work or may turn on and off randomly.
- No Power to Accessories: There may be no power to the dashboard or other electrical components.
Why These Symptoms Occur
A bad ignition switch can fail for several reasons, including:
- Wear and tear: The internal contacts and springs can wear out over time.
- Corrosion: Corrosion on the switch terminals can disrupt electrical connections.
- Loose connections: Bad wiring or loose connections can affect the switch’s performance.
- Physical damage: The switch can be damaged from attempted theft or other physical impacts.
What to Do
If you experience several of these symptoms, it is a good idea to have your ignition switch inspected by a professional mechanic. Ignoring these issues could lead to further inconvenience or safety concerns.
How can I tell if my ignition is bad?
Symptoms of a bad ignition system include engine stalling, a failed or difficult start, engine misfires, flickering dashboard lights, and issues with electrical accessories. A faulty ignition switch can cause the engine to shut off suddenly or prevent it from starting at all, while bad ignition coils can lead to misfires, rough running, and reduced power. You might also hear unusual noises like a faint clicking or no sound when attempting to start the engine.
Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Switch
- Difficulty Starting or No-Start: The engine may crank but not start, or you may hear nothing at all when you turn the key.
- Engine Stalling: Your car may stall unexpectedly while driving.
- Electrical Problems: Dashboard lights may flicker or fail to turn on, and other electrical accessories might not work.
- Key Issues: You may have trouble turning the key in the ignition or even removing it.
- Intermittent Power Loss: The engine might start and then stall shortly after.
Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Coil
- Engine Misfires: A sputtering or coughing engine with jerky movements can indicate misfiring due to a lack of spark.
- Reduced Power and Poor Acceleration: The vehicle may feel less powerful, especially when accelerating.
- Check Engine Light: A faulty ignition coil can trigger the check engine light.
- Backfiring: You might hear loud popping or banging sounds from the exhaust.
- Increased Fuel Consumption: Decreased fuel efficiency can be a sign of an ignition coil problem.
- Black Exhaust Smoke: Excess unburned fuel from misfires can create thick black smoke from the tailpipe.
Is it easy to replace a car ignition?
While replacing an ignition switch is generally straightforward, you may encounter challenges along the way. Common issues include difficulty turning the key, intermittent starting problems, or electrical malfunctions. If you encounter any problems: Ensure all connections are secure and properly crimped.
How much does it cost to replace an entire ignition?
An ignition system replacement cost varies significantly, from under $200 for a simple ignition switch to over $1,000 for a complex ignition lock cylinder replacement. Key factors influencing price include the specific part needed (switch, coil, module, lock cylinder), the vehicle’s make and model, labor rates, and whether security system programming or key recoding is required.
Cost Breakdown by Part
- Ignition Switch: Costs can range from about $130 to $400, including parts and labor.
- Ignition Coil: Expect to pay between $230 and $330 for a single coil replacement.
- Ignition Lock Cylinder: Replacement can be more costly, sometimes exceeding $1,000, especially if the key needs to be replaced or recoded.
- Ignition Control Module: This part can cost around $50 to $250, with labor adding to the total.
Factors Influencing Cost
- Vehicle Make and Model: The complexity and cost of parts vary significantly between different car models.
- Labor Costs: Labor rates depend on your location and the repair shop’s hourly charges, which can range from $50 to $150 or more.
- Part Quality: The price can increase with high-quality OEM parts or when replacing more integrated assemblies that include the lock cylinder and security components.
- Programming and Recoding: Modern vehicles with security systems often require additional programming to sync with the new ignition part, adding to the overall cost.
How to Get an Accurate Estimate
- Diagnose the Issue: A mechanic needs to identify the exact part of the ignition system that is faulty.
- Get Multiple Quotes: Contact a few different mechanics to compare parts and labor costs for your specific vehicle.
- Check for Additional Services: Ask if the cost includes necessary programming or key recoding for your vehicle’s security system.


