How Much Is a Distributor on a Car?

A replacement distributor typically costs $100–$400 for the part alone, with installed totals usually ranging from $250–$700 at most independent shops; rare or import-specific units can push $800–$1,200. Many modern vehicles don’t use distributors at all, so first confirm your car actually has one before pricing the job.

What a Distributor Costs Today

Pricing varies by vehicle, part quality (OEM vs. aftermarket), and local labor rates. Here’s how current costs generally break down in the U.S. market.

• Part only: $100–$400 for most common models (aftermarket or remanufactured); $300–$700+ for OEM or hard-to-source units.
• Labor: 0.7–1.5 hours for most vehicles, typically $100–$180 per hour at independent shops; dealer rates are often higher.
• Installed total: $250–$700 in typical cases; $800–$1,200 possible for specialty or dealer-installed OEM parts.
• Cap-and-rotor-only service (if separate): $20–$100 parts, plus 0.3–0.8 hours labor; often a $70–$220 job total.
• Diagnostic fee (if needed): $50–$150, sometimes applied to the repair.

Most owners with common 1990s vehicles land near the middle of these ranges, especially when opting for quality aftermarket or remanufactured units and independent-shop labor.

Real-World Scenarios

Older domestic and Japanese models from the late 1980s through the late 1990s most commonly use distributors. Here are representative scenarios based on current market pricing.

• 1997 Honda Civic (D-series): Aftermarket/reman distributor $150–$300; 0.8–1.2 hours labor. Typical total: $320–$520.
• 1995 Toyota Camry 2.2L (5S-FE): Part $180–$350 depending on brand; about 1 hour labor. Typical total: $330–$580.
• 1996 Chevy C/K 1500 5.7L: Part $120–$280 (more for high-performance units); 0.8–1.0 hour labor. Typical total: $260–$460.

Prices rise for OEM-branded components, rarer trims, or if the distributor includes an internal ignition module or sensor bundle.

What Affects the Price

Several factors influence where your quote lands within (or outside) the averages.

• Vehicle specifics: Rarer engines or imports often require pricier distributors and longer lead times.
• Part type and brand: OEM and new units cost more; remanufactured and reputable aftermarket brands can save 15–40%.
• Integrated electronics: Built-in ignition modules or sensors increase part cost.
• Labor time: Accessibility, corrosion, seized hardware, or timing adjustments can add time.
• Shop rate and location: Urban areas and dealerships typically charge higher hourly rates.
• Warranty length: Longer parts/labor warranties can add to upfront price but reduce risk.

Balancing quality with availability and warranty terms is often the best way to optimize cost and reliability.

Do You Even Have a Distributor?

Most vehicles from the early 2000s onward are distributorless, using coil packs or coil-on-plug (COP) systems controlled by the engine computer. If that’s your car, your repair will involve different parts and prices.

• Coil-on-plug (per coil): $60–$200 part; $120–$350 installed per cylinder depending on access and brand.
• Coil pack (shared): $80–$250 part; $180–$500 installed.
• Crankshaft/camshaft sensors: $40–$150 part; $150–$400 installed.
• Spark plug wires (if equipped): $30–$120 part; $50–$200 installed.

A quick VIN or model-year lookup will confirm whether your ignition system uses a distributor or a distributorless setup.

Symptoms and When to Replace

Distributors wear mechanically and electrically. Recognizing symptoms helps avoid unnecessary parts swapping.

• Hard starting or no-start, especially when hot or damp.
• Misfires, rough idle, hesitation, or stalling under load.
• Backfiring or popping through intake/exhaust.
• Erratic tachometer readings or timing “wander.”
• Oil in the distributor (failed internal seal) or visible cap/rotor arcing and corrosion.
• Check engine light for ignition-related faults (vehicle-dependent; some distributors house sensors/modules).

When only the cap and rotor are worn (and they are serviceable separately), replacing those parts can restore performance at lower cost.

Tips to Save Money

A few steps can keep costs in check without sacrificing reliability.

• Confirm the diagnosis before replacing: ignition modules, sensors, coils, or wiring can mimic distributor failure.
• Consider remanufactured or quality aftermarket units with good warranties (12–36 months common).
• Compare 2–3 quotes from reputable independent shops; ask for line-item parts and labor.
• Bundle maintenance: replace cap/rotor, plugs, and wires together if due to save on repeated labor.
• Check for core charges and return your old unit to recoup core fees.
• If DIY-inclined, mark timing and rotor position carefully; consult factory procedures and torque specs.

A value-focused approach—solid parts, verified diagnosis, and smart bundling—usually delivers the best long-term result.

Bottom Line

Expect to spend $250–$700 installed for a typical distributor replacement, with part-only costs commonly $100–$400. Pricing varies by vehicle, part brand, and labor rates, and many newer cars don’t use distributors at all. Confirm your ignition setup first, then compare quotes and warranty terms to get the best deal.

Summary

Most distributor replacements fall in the mid-hundreds, while cap-and-rotor-only service can be under $200. Outliers exist for OEM or rare applications. If your vehicle is distributorless, comparable ignition repairs involve coils or sensors with similar per-item installed costs. Verify the fault, select reliable parts, and shop quotes to balance cost and coverage.