How Much Will It Cost to Replace My Catalytic Converter?
Expect to pay roughly $900–$2,500 for most cars in 2025, with economy models sometimes as low as $600–$1,500 and trucks, SUVs, and European luxury vehicles commonly running $2,000–$5,000 or more. Prices hinge on whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts, whether your state requires CARB-compliant converters, how many converters your vehicle has, and labor rates in your area.
Contents
- Typical Price Ranges in 2025 (USD)
- What Makes the Price Go Up or Down
- Parts vs. Labor Breakdown
- OEM vs. Aftermarket and CARB Compliance
- Special Cases: Theft, Multiple Converters, and Performance Models
- Can Insurance or Warranty Cover It?
- How to Get a Solid Estimate
- Signs You Might Not Need a New Converter Yet
- Regional Price Notes (U.S.)
- Quick Reference Examples
- Bottom Line
Typical Price Ranges in 2025 (USD)
While every estimate depends on your vehicle and location, these ranges reflect what repair shops and parts suppliers are quoting across much of the U.S. in 2025.
- Economy and compact cars: $600–$1,500 total
- Mid-size sedans and crossovers: $900–$2,500 total
- Trucks, SUVs, and V6/V8 engines (often multiple converters): $1,800–$4,000 total
- European/luxury and performance models: $2,500–$5,000+ total
- CARB states (CA, NY, CO, ME; plus local rules in others): add $300–$1,200 vs. federal aftermarket parts due to certification costs
These totals usually include parts, labor, shop fees, and taxes; diagnostic fees ($50–$150) and oxygen sensors ($80–$250 each) can add to the bill if needed.
What Makes the Price Go Up or Down
Several factors drive catalytic converter replacement costs beyond the base part price.
- Vehicle design: Some cars have one converter; many V6/V8 trucks and SUVs have two or more.
- OEM vs. aftermarket: Original equipment parts cost significantly more but are sometimes required or preferred.
- CARB compliance: States requiring CARB-certified units limit options and raise prices.
- Labor time and rust: Corroded exhausts can turn a 1–2 hour job into 4–6 hours with additional hardware or pipe work.
- Oxygen sensors and gaskets: Often replaced at the same time, adding parts cost.
- Regional labor rates: Urban areas and dealer service departments tend to charge more per hour.
- Parts availability: Popular theft-targeted models can face higher prices and longer waits.
A vehicle that’s simple to service with readily available aftermarket parts will cost far less than a rust-belt SUV with multiple converters and dealer-only components.
Parts vs. Labor Breakdown
Understanding the components of your estimate helps you compare quotes fairly and avoid surprises.
- Parts (converter itself):
– Aftermarket universal: $100–$300 (requires welding/fabrication)
– Aftermarket direct-fit: $200–$1,200
– OEM: $600–$3,000 each (some high-performance units even higher) - Labor: 0.7–3.0 hours typical; 4–6 hours if rusted or custom fabrication is needed (shop rates commonly $100–$200/hr)
- Related items: Gaskets/hardware $15–$60; oxygen sensors $80–$250 each; heat shields/anti-theft plates $150–$500 installed
- Shop fees and taxes: Often 5–10% of the invoice
Line-item quotes make it clear whether you’re paying for welding, new O2 sensors, hardware, or other add-ons that can inflate the final figure.
OEM vs. Aftermarket and CARB Compliance
Your choice of part determines both legality and longevity, especially in strict-emissions states.
- OEM (dealer) converters: Best fit and durability; highest cost; always compliant for your vehicle.
- Aftermarket federal (EPA) converters: Legal in most states; lower cost; quality varies by brand; not legal in CARB states.
- CARB-certified aftermarket converters: Required in California, New York, Colorado, and Maine; more expensive; must match your exact vehicle and engine family.
- Used/salvage converters: Generally illegal for shops to install on modern road vehicles; most reputable shops won’t offer this.
If you live in or move to a CARB state, insist on a CARB-certified part to pass inspections and avoid fines or repeat repairs.
Special Cases: Theft, Multiple Converters, and Performance Models
Certain scenarios push costs higher than the averages.
- Theft damage: Thieves often cut pipes and sensors; expect extra fabrication, sensors, and sometimes multiple sections of exhaust.
- Multiple converters: Many V6/V8 engines and some trucks/SUVs use two or more converters; quotes can multiply quickly.
- Performance and European models: Tight packaging, pricey OEM parts, and complicated emissions systems raise both parts and labor costs.
- Exhaust rust/corrosion: Seized bolts and flanges can turn a routine job into extensive exhaust work.
If your cat was stolen, ask shops to include pipe repair, sensors, and an anti-theft shield in the estimate to avoid repeat losses.
Can Insurance or Warranty Cover It?
Depending on the cause and your coverage, you may not have to pay the full amount out of pocket.
- Comprehensive insurance: Typically covers catalytic converter theft minus your deductible; some policies also cover vandalism-related damage.
- Federal emissions warranty: 8 years/80,000 miles on the catalytic converter and engine computer (from original in-service date) for defects.
- CARB/PZEV programs: Certain PZEV models carry extended emissions coverage up to 15 years/150,000 miles; check your warranty booklet.
- Extended warranties/service contracts: May cover failure due to defects, not theft or misuse; terms vary.
- Denials: Damage from misfueling, oil/coolant contamination, or aftermarket tuning may void coverage.
Before authorizing repairs, call your insurer and check your warranty status by VIN; proof of maintenance and diagnostic codes can speed approvals.
How to Get a Solid Estimate
A few simple steps can sharpen your quote and avoid paying for parts you don’t need.
- Provide your VIN and mileage so the shop can confirm the exact part and any emissions warranty eligibility.
- Tell the shop your state and whether the vehicle must meet CARB standards.
- Ask for both OEM and compliant aftermarket options (where legal) with part numbers.
- Request a line-item quote: converter, O2 sensors, gaskets/hardware, labor hours, shop fees, and taxes.
- Compare at least two independent shops and, if applicable, one dealer for a baseline.
- If stolen, ask for pipe repair costs and an anti-theft shield estimate.
Transparent, apples-to-apples quotes help you weigh cost against longevity and compliance and reduce the risk of repeat visits.
Signs You Might Not Need a New Converter Yet
Not every check-engine light or P0420/P0430 code means a failed converter.
- Exhaust leaks upstream of the cat can mimic converter inefficiency.
- Faulty upstream/downstream O2 sensors can trigger false catalyst codes.
- Misfires, oil burning, or coolant leaks can damage cats—fixing root causes first may restore performance.
- Software updates or drive-cycle completion can resolve borderline monitors after repairs.
- Chemical “cleaners” rarely fix a truly failed converter and may be a temporary bandage at best.
A smoke test for leaks, sensor analysis, and scanning fuel trims can save you from replacing an expensive part unnecessarily.
Regional Price Notes (U.S.)
Where you live influences availability, compliance requirements, and labor rates.
- CARB states (CA, NY, CO, ME): Higher parts cost and stricter fitment rules; limited brands.
- High-cost metro areas: Higher hourly labor rates and shop fees.
- Rust-belt regions: Extra labor and hardware due to corrosion; expect larger estimates.
- Theft hot spots: Longer wait times and higher demand for popular models’ parts.
If you’re relocating to a CARB state, choose a CARB-certified converter now to avoid paying twice later.
Quick Reference Examples
These ballpark figures illustrate current market pricing; your VIN-specific quote may differ.
- 2015 Toyota Prius: $1,200–$2,800 (CARB states usually at the higher end)
- 2017 Honda Accord 2.4L: $900–$2,000
- 2018 Ford F-150 5.0L (two cats): $1,800–$3,800
- 2016 BMW X5 (turbo six): $2,500–$5,000+
- 2012 Chevy Impala: $700–$1,500
Use these as a starting point; confirming CARB requirements, part numbers, and labor hours will sharpen the final price.
Bottom Line
Most drivers will spend $900–$2,500 to replace a catalytic converter, with costs climbing for trucks, multi-cat systems, luxury models, and CARB states. Get VIN-based quotes, compare OEM and compliant aftermarket options, verify warranty or insurance coverage, and address any underlying engine issues to protect your investment.
Summary
Catalytic converter replacement costs vary widely by vehicle, emissions rules, and labor conditions. In 2025, plan for roughly $900–$2,500 for most cars, with higher totals for trucks, multiple converters, or CARB-compliant parts. Confirm compatibility by VIN, ask for line-item estimates, and check for insurance or emissions-warranty coverage—especially in cases of theft or premature failure.
Is it expensive to replace your catalytic converter?
For direct-fit options, a replacement can cost anywhere from $300.00 to $2,500.00, depending on the model, for just the cost of the part. You should also think about labor costs, which could cost between $70 and $130 an hour to install the converter.
Can I drive a car with a bad catalytic converter?
You can drive a car with a bad catalytic converter, but it’s not recommended due to potential engine damage, decreased performance, reduced fuel efficiency, increased pollution, and the risk of a completely failed engine or a fire. It’s best to have it serviced and replaced as soon as possible to avoid severe issues and potential engine failure.
Why you shouldn’t drive with a bad catalytic converter:
- Engine Damage: A severely clogged converter can cause a misfire, leading to engine damage or even complete engine failure.
- Reduced Performance: You’ll likely experience less power, sluggish acceleration, and poor gas mileage.
- Overheating: A failing catalytic converter can overheat, creating a fire risk.
- Increased Pollution: A bad converter releases more harmful pollutants into the air, harming the environment.
- Failed Emissions Test: You will likely fail an emissions test if the converter isn’t working properly.
- Stalling: A completely blocked converter could cause the engine to die while driving, leaving you stranded.
When to get it serviced immediately:
- You notice a sulfur (rotten egg) smell from the exhaust.
- Your car has dark exhaust smoke.
- The vehicle is overheating under the hood.
- You feel a significant loss of power.
- The engine is having trouble starting or staying running.
How much does it cost to replace a catalytic converter in Australia?
Breakdown Of Catalytic Converter Costs
| Service Part | Estimated Cost (AUD) |
|---|---|
| Part only (basic) | AUD$900-$2,000 |
| Part & Labour | AUD$1,000-AU$3,000+ |
| Labour (per hour) | AUD$60-$120 |
Is it worth it to replace my catalytic converter?
Yes, it is worth replacing a faulty catalytic converter because it is a critical component that removes toxic emissions, and driving without one can cause your engine to fail, reduce fuel efficiency, and lead to failed emissions tests and potential legal issues. While costly, the replacement prevents more extensive engine damage, ensures your vehicle is environmentally compliant, and allows it to pass mandatory smog checks.
Reasons to Replace a Bad Catalytic Converter
- Environmental Compliance: A functioning catalytic converter is essential to reduce harmful tailpipe emissions, making it a legal requirement in many states to pass an emissions test or smog check.
- Engine Protection: A failing or clogged converter restricts exhaust flow, forcing the engine to work harder, which can lead to reduced engine performance and eventual engine damage, including blown engine seals or failure.
- Fuel Efficiency: By restoring proper exhaust flow, a new catalytic converter allows the engine to operate more efficiently, leading to better fuel economy.
- Preventing Further Damage: A severely clogged converter can cause the exhaust system, and even the engine, to overheat, leading to significant and expensive damage.
Signs of a Failing Catalytic Converter
- Rattling Noise: A failing converter may produce a rattling sound from the exhaust system.
- Reduced Engine Performance: A sluggish engine or difficulty accelerating can be a sign of restricted exhaust flow.
- Check Engine Light: The “Check Engine” light on your dashboard often illuminates when the catalytic converter is not functioning correctly.
- Sulfur Smell: A strong rotten-egg (sulfur) smell from the exhaust can indicate a problem with the converter.
- Failed Emissions Test: The most conclusive sign that your converter isn’t working is failing a smog or emissions inspection.
Considerations Before Replacement
- Underlying Causes: A catalytic converter fails prematurely due to other issues, so it’s crucial to diagnose and fix the root cause, such as an engine misfire or a faulty O2 sensor, before replacing the converter.
- Cost: Catalytic converters contain valuable precious metals and can be expensive, so compare prices from different shops and consider the vehicle’s overall value.


