How to Change Brakes and Rotors Step by Step

Here’s the process in brief: safely lift and support the vehicle, remove the wheel, unbolt and hang the caliper, take out old pads and the caliper bracket, remove the rotor, clean the hub, install and clean the new rotor, fit new hardware and pads, retract the caliper piston, reassemble and torque to spec, then pump the pedal, check fluid, and bed in the brakes. Below is a detailed, step-by-step guide with safety tips, special cases, and troubleshooting to help you complete the job correctly.

What You’ll Need

The following tools and materials make the job safe, efficient, and compliant with common automotive best practices.

• Jack and jack stands (or a lift), wheel chocks
• Torque wrench, breaker bar, and appropriate socket set
• Hex/Allen/Torx bits (common for caliper slide pins and rotor set screws)
• C-clamp or caliper piston compressor (wind-back tool for some rear pistons)
• Impact driver (for stubborn rotor set screws), penetrating oil
• Wire brush, brake cleaner, rags/paper towels
• High-temperature silicone brake grease; anti-seize (thin film on hub face only)
• New rotors and pads (plus new hardware/abutment clips and shims)
• Bungee cord or hook to hang the caliper (never by the hose)
• Protective equipment: gloves, eye protection, mask for brake dust
• OBD scan tool or service procedure for electronic parking brakes (if equipped)

Having these items on hand helps prevent mid-job delays and reduces the risk of improper assembly or contamination.

Safety and Preparation

Before turning a wrench, prepare the work area and the vehicle to prevent injury and ensure a clean, correct installation.

1. Park on level ground, engage the parking brake (unless servicing rear brakes with electronic parking brake), and chock the wheels.
2. Loosen lug nuts slightly with the vehicle on the ground.
3. Lift the vehicle at factory jacking points and support it securely with jack stands.
4. Remove the key or switch off ignition; for hybrids/EVs, make sure the vehicle is fully powered down and in service mode if required.
5. Open the hood and check brake fluid level; remove cap or place a rag over the reservoir to monitor fluid rise when compressing pistons.

These steps minimize risk and help you avoid triggering systems like electronic parking brakes or ABS unexpectedly.

Step-by-Step: Replacing Disc Brake Pads and Rotors

Follow this ordered sequence for most front and many rear disc brake systems; always verify vehicle-specific procedures in your service manual.

1. Remove the wheel: finish loosening lug nuts and set the wheel aside.
2. Document orientation: take a quick photo of pad/hardware layout for reference.
3. Unbolt the caliper slide pins and lift the caliper off the bracket; hang it with a hook or bungee. Do not let it dangle from the hose.
4. Remove old pads and hardware (clips/shims), noting their orientation and wear indicator positions.
5. Unbolt the caliper bracket (carrier) from the knuckle; these bolts are often tight and may require a breaker bar.
6. Remove the rotor: take out any rotor set screw (use impact driver if stuck). If the rotor is seized to the hub, apply penetrating oil, tap around the hat with a dead-blow hammer, or use threaded push-off holes if provided. On rear “drum-in-hat” parking brakes, back off the shoe adjuster first.
7. Clean the hub face thoroughly with a wire brush; check for rust scale and high spots. A flat, clean hub minimizes runout and brake pulsation.
8. Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove oil film; place the rotor on the hub and secure with a set screw or a lug nut to hold it flush.
9. Reinstall the caliper bracket; torque bolts to factory spec and apply threadlocker only if the manufacturer specifies it.
10. Install new abutment clips/shims and apply a thin layer of high-temp silicone brake grease to pad ears and sliding surfaces (never on friction material or rotor face).
11. Retract the caliper piston: use the proper compressor tool. For some rear calipers, rotate the piston back in (wind-back). Opening the bleeder while compressing can prevent pushing dirty fluid upstream; capture and dispose of fluid properly.
12. Fit new pads into the bracket, ensuring the wear indicator is on the correct side (often the inboard pad). Confirm smooth sliding motion.
13. Reinstall the caliper over the new pads and torque slide pins to spec. Ensure boots are seated and not twisted.
14. Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten lugs, lower the vehicle, and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
15. Pump the brake pedal until firm to seat the pads against the rotors; top off brake fluid to the correct level.
16. Bed in the brakes (see below), check for leaks/scrapes, and perform a short, cautious test drive.

Proceeding methodically helps prevent common issues like soft pedals, uneven wear, or rotor runout that leads to vibration.

Special Cases and Tips

Electronic Parking Brakes (EPB)

Modern vehicles may lock the rear caliper pistons electronically; mishandling can damage the system or trigger faults.

• Place the EPB into service/maintenance mode using the in-car menu or an OBD scan tool, per the vehicle manual.
• Never force the piston without service mode; do not unplug EPB motors with ignition on.
• After reassembly, exit service mode and cycle the EPB; clear any codes if needed and verify operation.

Treat EPB steps as mandatory—skipping them risks expensive damage and safety issues.

Rear Rotors with Drum-in-Hat Parking Brakes

Some rear rotors integrate a small drum for the parking brake shoes, which must be addressed before rotor removal.

• Locate and back off the star-wheel adjuster through the access hole to free the rotor.
• Inspect shoes, springs, and hardware; clean dust with a vacuum (avoid compressed air) and lightly lube backing plate contact points with high-temp brake grease.
• After installing the new rotor, adjust the shoes until slight drag is felt, then back off per the manual.

Proper adjustment prevents drag, overheating, and poor parking brake hold.

Torque and Lubrication Pointers

Correct torque and lube placement are crucial for safety, smooth operation, and longevity.

• Typical ranges (verify your manual): lug nuts 80–140 lb-ft (108–190 N·m), caliper bracket bolts 70–120 lb-ft (95–163 N·m), slide pins 20–35 lb-ft (27–47 N·m), rotor set screw 10–16 lb-ft (14–22 N·m).
• Use a torque wrench; over- or under-tightening can cause warping or component failure.
• Apply high-temp silicone brake grease to slide pins and abutments only; never on pad faces or rotors.
• Use a thin film of anti-seize on the hub centering lip and rotor hat-to-hub interface; keep it off friction surfaces.
• Only use threadlocker where specified by the manufacturer.

These practices reduce noise, prevent galling and corrosion, and ensure consistent clamping forces.

Bed-In (Burnish) the New Brakes

Bedding-in mates pad material to the rotor, stabilizing friction and helping prevent judder and glazing.

1. In a safe area, perform 5–8 medium stops from about 30 mph (50 km/h) to 10 mph (15 km/h), allowing light acceleration between stops.
2. Perform 2–3 firmer stops from about 45 mph (70 km/h) to 10 mph (15 km/h) without activating ABS.
3. Drive for 5–10 minutes without heavy braking to cool the brakes; avoid coming to a full stop with the pedal firmly pressed on hot brakes.

After bedding, pedal feel and stopping power should be consistent; some smells or light smoke can be normal during initial burnish.

Troubleshooting After the Job

If something feels off, use these checks to diagnose common post-service issues quickly.

• Soft pedal: recheck for leaks, ensure pads are seated, and bleed brakes if air was introduced.
• Vibration/pulsation: verify wheel torque, hub cleanliness, rotor seating, and runout; re-clean or replace if out of spec.
• Pulling to one side: confirm equal pad contact, free-moving slide pins, and no seized pistons or collapsed hoses.
• Noise/squeal: ensure hardware is new and greased at contact points; check for missing shims or contaminated pads/rotors.
• ABS/EPB warnings: verify connectors, fuses, and that EPB service mode was correctly exited; scan and clear codes.

Systematic checks usually resolve issues without redoing the entire job.

Environmental and Legal Notes

Brake service generates waste and dust that must be handled responsibly and in accordance with local rules.

• Recycle old rotors as scrap metal and dispose of pads per local regulations (some contain fibers requiring specific handling).
• Avoid blowing brake dust with compressed air; use a vacuum or damp rags and wear a mask.
• Collect used brake cleaner and any expelled fluid; dispose of them as hazardous waste.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50–100 miles (80–160 km); retain receipts/warranty info for parts.

Proper disposal and follow-up protect you legally and environmentally while ensuring continued safety.

Summary

Changing brakes and rotors involves safe lifting, careful disassembly, thorough cleaning, correct installation with proper torque and lubrication, and a disciplined bedding-in process. Account for electronic parking brakes and drum-in-hat designs, and finish with checks and responsible cleanup. Done correctly, the job restores stopping power, prevents noise and vibration, and extends component life.