How to Change Drum Brakes Step by Step

To change drum brakes, safely raise and support the vehicle, remove the drum, replace the brake shoes and hardware on each side, adjust the star wheel until there’s a slight drag, reassemble, and test. Below is a detailed, practical guide that covers tools, safety, removal, reassembly, adjustment, bleeding, bedding-in, and common pitfalls.

What You’ll Need

Replacing drum brakes can be done at home with basic tools, a few specialty items, and new parts. Having the right gear ready helps you work cleanly and safely.

• Floor jack and jack stands (rated for your vehicle)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench and torque wrench
• Brake spring tool (recommended), needle-nose pliers, flat screwdriver
• Brake adjuster spoon or flat screwdriver for the star wheel
• Brake cleaner and a catch pan or rags
• High-temp brake grease (for shoe contact points)
• Penetrating oil and anti-seize (optional)
• New brake shoes and a hardware kit (springs/hold-downs/adjuster cable)
• New drums (if worn, heat-checked, or out-of-spec)
• Replacement wheel cylinders (if leaking or sticky)
• Safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask/respirator rated for fine particles

These tools and parts cover most passenger cars and light trucks with rear drum brakes; always confirm compatibility with your vehicle’s year, make, and model.

Before You Begin: Safety and Prep

Working on brakes involves dust, springs under tension, and hydraulic components. Proper preparation reduces risk and helps you finish efficiently.

1. Park on a level surface, set the transmission in Park (or in gear for manuals), and chock the opposite wheels.
2. Release the parking brake (drums may not come off with the parking brake engaged).
3. Crack the lug nuts loose slightly while the vehicle is on the ground.
4. Raise the vehicle securely and support it on jack stands at factory lift points; remove the wheel.
5. Wear eye protection and a dust mask. Do not blow brake dust with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
6. Take clear photos of the drum brake assembly on both sides before disassembly; left and right sides are mirror images with important differences.

With the car safely supported and reference photos captured, you’ll have a clear roadmap for correct reassembly.

Step-by-Step Procedure

The following steps outline a typical duo-servo rear drum brake service; details can vary by vehicle, so consult your service manual for specs and diagrams.

1. Remove the drum:

   – Check for a rubber access plug on the backing plate and back off the star-wheel adjuster through the slot to release shoe tension.

   – If the drum is stuck, use the threaded jacking holes (if present) to push the drum off, or tap around the hub face with a soft mallet. Apply penetrating oil at the hub center if corroded.

2. Inspect the assembly:

   – Look for fluid leaks at the wheel cylinder, cracked or heat-damaged linings, and worn hardware.

   – Compare to your photos to note spring routing and shoe orientation (shorter lining is usually the primary/front shoe; longer lining the secondary/rear shoe in many designs).

3. Remove hold-down hardware:

   – Press and twist the hold-down spring caps to free the pins. Specialized hold-down tools make this easier.

4. Remove the return springs and adjuster:

   – Use a brake spring tool or pliers to remove upper return springs.

   – Detach the self-adjuster lever/cable and star-wheel assembly, noting left/right-specific parts and orientation.

5. Free the shoes:

   – Lift the shoes off the lower anchor and out from the wheel cylinder pushrods.

   – Unhook the parking brake cable/lever from the trailing shoe. Transfer the lever to the new shoe if required (mind the clip/retainer).

6. Clean and prepare:

   – Spray the backing plate and components with brake cleaner; let dry.

   – Apply a very thin film of high-temp brake grease to the six shoe contact pads on the backing plate. Do not get grease on linings or drum.

7. Inspect/replace the wheel cylinder (if needed):

   – Gently pull back dust boots; if fluid is present or pistons are sticky, replace the cylinder. If you open the hydraulics, you must bleed the brakes later.

8. Assemble new shoes and hardware:

   – Place the primary (short lining) shoe toward the front and the secondary (long lining) toward the rear unless your manual specifies otherwise.

   – Install hold-down pins/springs to loosely secure each shoe.

   – Refit the parking brake lever and cable on the trailing shoe.

9. Reinstall the adjuster and springs:

   – Clean and lightly lube the star-wheel threads; assemble the adjuster on the correct side with proper handedness.

   – Route the adjuster cable and lever exactly as photographed; install return springs in the original locations.

10. Pre-adjust the shoes:

    – Expand the adjuster until the drum just slips on and spins with a faint, even drag. No scraping or binding should occur.

11. Reinstall the drum and wheel:

    – Clean the drum friction surface with brake cleaner.

    – Fit the drum, mount the wheel, hand-tighten lugs.

12. Seat the brakes:

    – Lower the vehicle, torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer spec.

    – Pump the brake pedal several times to center the shoes before driving.

13. Repeat on the other side:

    – Always service both sides to maintain even braking.

Completing the above steps on both sides restores hardware, resets adjustment, and prepares the system for final checks, bleeding (if opened), and bedding-in.

Reassembly Tips and Orientation Checks

Small orientation errors are the most common sources of noise, poor braking, or rapid wear. Use these checks before closing up the job.

• Primary vs. secondary shoe: The shorter friction lining typically faces the front; the longer lining faces the rear.
• Adjuster handedness: Left and right adjusters are often threaded oppositely. Ensure the self-adjuster lever advances the star wheel to expand the shoes, not retract them.
• Spring routing: Upper return springs and lower springs must match your reference photos; incorrect routing can drag or jam.
• Anchor and cable placement: The adjuster cable should sit in the correct guides, with no twists.
• Wheel cylinder: Both pistons must move freely and not leak; replace if in doubt.
• Contact points: Grease only the backing-plate pads and adjuster threads—never the shoe friction surfaces.

Confirming these details ensures proper self-adjustment, quiet operation, and consistent brake performance.

Final Adjusting, Bleeding, and Bed-In

Adjust the Drums

Correct initial adjustment prevents long pedal travel and uneven braking. If your vehicle uses automatic self-adjusters, this sets them in the working range.

1. With the drum on, turn the star wheel through the backing-plate slot until the drum spins with slight, even drag.
2. Operate the parking brake several times and recheck for drag; readjust if needed.
3. After a short drive and a few reverse stops (many systems self-adjust in reverse), recheck adjustment.

Setting a modest, even drag on both sides helps the brakes center and self-adjust correctly during initial use.

Bleed the Brakes (only if you opened the hydraulics)

If you replaced a wheel cylinder or opened a brake line, bleeding removes air for a firm pedal. Follow your vehicle’s recommended sequence.

1. Top off the master cylinder with the correct brake fluid (DOT rating per cap/owner’s manual).
2. Bleed in sequence, typically farthest to closest: right rear, left rear, right front, left front (verify for your car).
3. At each bleeder, attach tubing to a catch bottle, have a helper press and hold the pedal, open bleeder to release air/fluid, close, then release pedal. Repeat until bubble-free.
4. Maintain fluid level; do not let the master run dry.

Proper bleeding eliminates sponginess and restores consistent braking response.

Bed-In the Shoes

Bedding mates the shoe linings to the drum for maximum contact and consistent braking.

1. Make 8–10 moderate stops from about 25–35 mph to near walking speed; allow cooling airflow between stops.
2. Avoid hard panic stops at first to prevent glazing.
3. After bedding, recheck for even drag and adjust if necessary.

Once bedded and readjusted, the brakes will deliver more predictable torque and wear evenly.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

These frequent errors can lead to noise, premature wear, or poor performance.

• Mixing left/right parts: Adjusters, levers, and cables can be side-specific—keep components organized.
• Incorrect shoe orientation: Swapping primary/secondary shoes reduces braking performance.
• Forgetting photos: Reference images make spring routing and cable paths clear during reassembly.
• Over-greasing: Any grease on friction surfaces or the drum contaminates linings; clean thoroughly.
• Skipping hardware: Old springs fatigue; a hardware kit is cheap insurance against noise and imbalance.
• Not torquing wheels: Under/over-torqued lug nuts can warp drums and cause pulsation.

A careful, methodical approach—and replacing worn hardware—prevents most issues.

When to Replace Drums or Wheel Cylinders

Some components must be replaced if they’re worn or damaged beyond service limits.

• Drums: Deep scoring, heat checks, cracks, or inside diameter beyond maximum spec (stamped or in the service manual).
• Wheel cylinders: Any fluid leakage under boots, seized pistons, or uneven shoe wear indicating hydraulic imbalance.
• Shoes: Oil/grease contamination, cracked or separated linings, or thickness below spec.

Measuring and inspecting ensures you don’t reinstall components that compromise safety or longevity.

Time and Cost Snapshot

For a DIYer with basic tools, expect 2–4 hours for both rear wheels. Parts typically run $60–$200 for shoes and hardware, plus $80–$200 if drums and/or wheel cylinders are needed. Professional service usually ranges higher depending on vehicle and region. Always follow your vehicle’s service manual for torque specs and model-specific procedures.

Summary

Changing drum brakes involves safe setup, careful disassembly, cleaning and inspection, correct shoe and hardware installation, precise adjustment, and validation through bleeding (if required) and bedding-in. With proper tools, reference photos, and attention to orientation and adjustment, most owners can restore smooth, reliable braking performance at home.