How to Check the Air Filter on a 2008 Honda Accord

To check a 2008 Honda Accord’s air filter, open the hood, locate the air cleaner box, release its clips or screws, lift the cover, remove the filter, and inspect it against a bright light; replace if it’s dark, clogged, torn, or oily. For the cabin (pollen) filter, lower the glove box, remove the access door behind it, slide out the filter tray, and inspect the element in the same way. This quick inspection helps maintain engine performance, fuel economy, and clean cabin air.

Why This Matters on a 2008 Accord

The 2008 Accord (sedan or coupe; 2.4L four-cylinder or 3.5L V6) uses two key filters: the engine air filter (for combustion air) and the cabin air filter (for HVAC air). A dirty engine filter can reduce power and mileage; a clogged cabin filter weakens airflow and can fog windows. Honda’s Maintenance Minder typically flags these as sub-code 2 (air cleaner and cabin filter), often around 15,000–30,000 miles depending on driving conditions.

Tools and Preparation

Before you begin, gather simple tools and set up a safe workspace. You won’t need specialized equipment, but a few basics make the job cleaner and quicker.

• Flathead screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver (depending on fasteners)
• Flashlight or bright phone light (for the “light test”)
• Gloves and a clean rag
• Shop vacuum (optional, to remove leaves/debris)

Park on a level surface, switch off the engine, set the parking brake, and let hot components cool. Always disconnect from moving parts and avoid forcing plastic tabs in cold weather, when they’re more brittle.

Engine Air Filter: Step-by-Step Check

The engine air filter sits inside a black plastic air cleaner box in the engine bay. On most 2008 Accords, it’s near the front corner of the bay, connected to the intake tube—secured by metal clips or screws. Follow these steps to inspect it correctly.

1. Open the hood and support it securely.
2. Locate the air cleaner box: a rectangular black housing connected to the intake duct. Note the mass airflow sensor wiring nearby—don’t strain it.
3. Release the housing: unclip the metal latches by hand or remove a few screws (keep them safe).
4. Lift the top of the box enough to access the filter. You may need to wiggle it past tabs—avoid pulling on attached wiring or hoses.
5. Remove the filter. Note its orientation (which side faces up/front).
6. Inspect the filter:
   

   • Tap it gently to dislodge loose debris (do not blow with compressed air; it can damage the media).
   • Shine a light from behind: if light barely passes or pleats are packed with dirt/insects, replace.
   • Check for tears, oil contamination, or warped/ripped seals.

7. Clean the air box: wipe dust, vacuum leaves or sand from the bottom of the housing.
8. Reinstall or replace: fit the filter exactly as removed, ensure the rubber gasket seats flat, align any cover tabs, then re-latch clips or reinstall screws snugly (don’t overtighten).
9. Final check: confirm the cover sits evenly all around and no wiring or hoses are pinched.

A correct re-seal is crucial; even small gaps allow unfiltered air into the engine. If the housing won’t close easily, re-check filter orientation and gasket seating.

How to Judge the Filter’s Condition

Use these practical indicators to decide whether to keep or replace the engine air filter.

• Color and debris: light gray with minor dust is normal; dark gray/black with visible dirt, leaves, or sand requires replacement.
• Light test: hold a bright light behind the media—weak or no light passing through indicates clogging.
• Physical damage: tears, cracked pleats, or a deformed rubber seal mean it must be replaced.
• Oil or odor: oily residue or a strong fuel/chemical smell suggests contamination—replace and investigate if it returns.

If you’re between decisions, err on the side of replacement; filters are inexpensive and can restore performance and economy.

Cabin (Dust and Pollen) Filter: Step-by-Step Check

The cabin filter sits behind the glove box and cleans the air entering through the HVAC system. A clogged filter reduces airflow and can strain the blower motor.

1. Empty the glove box.
2. Open the glove box and gently press inward on both sides to release the stops so the box swings down.
3. If equipped, unhook the small damper cord on the side to fully lower the glove box.
4. Behind the glove box, locate the rectangular cabin filter access door on the HVAC housing; release its tabs and remove the cover.
5. Slide out the filter tray. Note the airflow arrow direction.
6. Inspect the filter with the same light test: heavy dust, leaves, or odor means it’s due. Do not wash paper filters.
7. Clean the cavity with a vacuum if debris is present.
8. Reinsert the filter (airflow arrow pointing in the correct direction), reinstall the access door, reattach the damper cord, and close the glove box.

Proper orientation matters for sealing and filtration performance; always match the airflow arrow to the housing’s marking (typically pointing downward into the blower).

When to Replace and What to Buy

Service intervals vary with climate and driving conditions, but these guidelines help you stay ahead of problems.

• Intervals: Engine air filter ~30,000 miles (sooner in dusty areas); Cabin filter ~15,000–20,000 miles or annually.
• Maintenance Minder: When sub-code “2” appears, Honda calls for replacing the engine air cleaner and dust/pollen filter (and inspecting the drive belt).
• Parts quality: Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket filters that match the housing size and have a robust perimeter seal; avoid oiled filters that can contaminate sensors.

If you replace filters early due to heavy dust, you generally do not need to reset the Maintenance Minder unless you’re performing all items for that sub-code at once.

Common Pitfalls and Pro Tips

These quick notes can save time and prevent rework or damage during your inspection.

• Do not force the air box lid; ensure alignment tabs are seated before latching.
• Protect the mass airflow sensor wiring near the intake duct—avoid pulling or twisting the harness.
• If screws are used instead of clips, snug them evenly; over-tightening can crack the plastic housing.
• Replace filters in pairs (engine and cabin) if the Maintenance Minder sub-code 2 appears, keeping your service schedule aligned.
• Aftermarket filters with poor fit can leak; check for an even seal all around.

Careful handling and correct fitment ensure the engine only breathes filtered air and the HVAC system flows freely without noise or odors.

Summary

Checking a 2008 Honda Accord’s air filters is a straightforward DIY task: open the air box, remove and light-test the engine filter, and drop the glove box to access and inspect the cabin filter. Replace any filter that’s dark, clogged, damaged, or odorous, and follow Honda’s Maintenance Minder (sub-code 2) for routine intervals. Clean housings, orient filters correctly, and avoid forcing plastic parts—small details that preserve performance, comfort, and longevity.

Can I check my own air filter?

Unclip or unscrew the housing cover to access the filter. Carefully remove the old filter and check for dirt, debris or discoloration.

How to check if your air filter is bad?

Signs Your Air Filter Needs Attention

1. Visibly dirty pleats. If you can’t see light through the air filter and there is dirt and debris caught between the pleats, it’s time to change it.
2. Worsening fuel economy.
3. Unusual engine sounds.
4. Poor acceleration.
5. Check Engine Light.

What is the most common problem with a 2008 Honda Accord?

Top 2008 Honda Accord Problems

• Problems Shifting Into 3rd Gear.
• Bad rear hub/bearing unit.
• Check Engine Light for Running Rough and Difficulty Starting.
• Check Engine Light Due to Failed Air Fuel Sensor or Oxygen Sensor.
• Plugged Moon Roof Drains May Cause Water Leak.

How to check cabin air filter 2008 Honda Accord?

Behind the glove box open the glove. Box unhook the dampener arm. Push in on both sides of the glove box to release the stops remove the old filter from the housing and clean out any debris.