How to Check the Condition of Your Suspension and Steering System

To check suspension and steering, conduct a careful test drive, perform a visual inspection for leaks and damage, lift each wheel to feel for play in joints and bearings, assess shocks/struts for leakage and control, check steering assist (hydraulic or electric), review tire wear patterns, and scan for diagnostic codes on modern systems. If you detect clunks, excessive play, pulling, uneven tire wear, leaks, warning lights, a crooked steering wheel, or sagging ride height, book professional service promptly.

Why It Matters—and What Trouble Looks Like

The suspension and steering keep your vehicle stable, comfortable, and predictable. Failures can lengthen stopping distances, destabilize the car in emergencies, and accelerate tire wear. The following are common symptoms that point to problems.

• Clunks, knocks, or creaks over bumps or while turning
• Steering pull, drift, or a steering wheel that sits off-center
• Vibration or shimmy through the wheel, especially at specific speeds
• Excessive steering play or a “loose” on-center feel
• Uneven tire wear (cupping, inner-edge feathering, or isolated scallops)
• Visible fluid leaks near struts, shocks, or a hydraulic steering rack
• Warning lights for EPS/steering, stability control, or chassis systems
• Ride height changes, sagging, or a harsh/floaty ride

Any single symptom is a clue; several together usually indicate worn joints, damaged bushings, misalignment, or failing dampers that warrant inspection.

Tools and Safety

Before you begin, assemble basic tools and ensure the car is secure. These items help you evaluate components without overreaching DIY limits.

• Floor jack and jack stands (use manufacturer jacking points)
• Tire chocks and a torque wrench for wheel lugs
• Bright flashlight or headlamp and shop towels
• Pry bar for gentle leverage on ball joints and bushings
• OBD-II scanner (preferably one that reads chassis/EPS modules)
• Spray bottle with soapy water (useful for air suspension leak checks)
• Protective gear: gloves, eye protection, and wheel blocks

Never work under a car supported solely by a jack. Set the parking brake, chock opposite wheels, and confirm stands are on solid ground before applying force.

Step-by-Step Checks You Can Do at Home

1) Baseline Test Drive

A short, controlled drive reveals many issues before you turn a wrench. Use smooth inputs and vary conditions to surface noises, play, and alignment problems.

• Low-speed bumps: Listen for clunks/creaks over speed humps and driveways.
• Straight-line tracking: On a flat road, confirm the car tracks straight and the steering wheel is centered.
• Steering feel: Note on-center play, heaviness, or intermittent assist (EPS/hydraulic).
• Braking: Watch for pull or steering wheel shake under moderate braking.
• Parking lot maneuvers: Full-lock turns can expose CV joint clicks or strut mount groans.
• Highway: Check for vibration at speed that may hint at balance, tire, or worn joint issues.

Document what you hear and feel—side, speed, and conditions—so you can target the physical inspection.

2) Visual Inspection on the Ground

With the vehicle parked on level ground, a walkaround often reveals early warnings without tools.

• Tires: Look for uneven wear (inner/outer edge wear suggests camber/toe issues; cupping points to worn shocks/struts).
• Ride height: Compare left/right gaps; a sag may indicate a broken spring or air suspension leak.
• Leaks: Check inside wheels and behind struts/shocks for oily residue.
• Boots and bushings: Torn tie-rod/ball-joint boots or cracked control-arm/sway bar bushings let grit in and shorten life.
• Steering wheel alignment: If off-center, alignment or bent components may be to blame.

Photo any irregular wear or leaks; they help confirm a developing issue and speed professional diagnosis if needed.

3) Lift-and-Wiggle Tests (Wheel Play)

Raising one corner at a time lets you feel mechanical play that isn’t obvious on the ground. Perform these checks with the wheel installed and lug nuts torqued snugly.

1. 12-and-6 o’clock check: Grip the tire top and bottom, rock in/out. Play suggests a worn wheel bearing or ball joint.
2. 3-and-9 o’clock check: Rock side to side. Play here often points to inner/outer tie-rod ends or steering rack wear.
3. Pry bar test: Gently lift under the control arm or ball joint; watch for vertical movement or clunk.
4. Spin test: Rotate the wheel; roughness or grind indicates bearing issues, scraping suggests dust shield or rotor contact.

There should be little to no perceptible play. Any distinct click, clunk, or visible movement at a joint merits replacement and a post-repair alignment.

4) Shock and Strut Condition

Healthy dampers control bounce and keep the tire planted. Modern adaptive systems add electronics that also need checking.

• Leak check: Oil on the damper body or dripping at seals indicates failure.
• Bounce test: Push down firmly and release; more than one rebound cycle suggests weak damping (crude but still informative).
• Springs and mounts: Look for broken coils, cracked upper mounts, or dented strut tubes.
• Adaptive dampers: Inspect electrical connectors and wiring; faults may trigger chassis/EPS warnings.
• Air suspension: Listen for hissing; spray soapy water on fittings/lines/bags for bubbles indicating leaks.

If a damper leaks, replace in axle pairs and plan on an alignment afterward to preserve tire life and handling.

5) Steering System: Hydraulic vs. Electric

Identify your assist type—most newer vehicles use EPS, while older models may have hydraulic pumps and fluid reservoirs.

• Hydraulic systems: Check fluid level/condition (dark or foamy is bad), inspect hoses and pump for leaks, and look for fluid inside steering rack boots.
• Electric Power Steering (EPS): Note any EPS or steering warnings, listen for motor/column grind, and check for intermittent heavy/light steering.
• Sensors and calibration: A faulty steering angle sensor can cause lane-keep or stability control issues and off-center feel.

Hydraulic issues often leave visible fluid trails; EPS faults frequently store codes and may require calibration after repairs or alignments.

6) Alignment and Geometry Checks

While precise adjustment needs a shop rack, you can spot telltales that alignment is out or components are bent.

• Centering: On a level road, the steering wheel should sit straight when driving straight.
• Pull and drift: Persistent pull indicates toe/camber issues or a sticking caliper; cross-switch front tires to rule out tire pull.
• Tire read: Feathering means incorrect toe; inner-edge wear suggests excessive negative camber or lowered ride height.
• ADAS considerations: Cars with lane-keep or camera/radar systems often need calibration after alignment or suspension work.

If symptoms persist after tire checks and rotations, book a four-wheel alignment and request a before/after report.

When to Use a Scan Tool

Modern vehicles expose steering and chassis health through diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). A capable scanner can speed your diagnosis.

• EPS module: Overcurrent, internal faults, or temperature derate codes explain intermittent assist.
• Steering angle sensor (SAS): Misalignment or calibration errors affect stability control and lane-keep.
• Chassis/ride modules: Adaptive damping, air suspension, or rear-steer systems log sensor and actuator faults.
• ABS/ESC: Wheel-speed sensor issues can feel like steering/suspension problems during interventions.

Record codes and freeze-frame data before clearing anything; repairs often require a post-fix calibration drive or static calibration with targets.

What Shops Can Do That’s Hard at Home

Professional equipment provides definitive measurements and stress tests you can’t replicate with basic tools.

• Four-wheel alignment with camber, caster, and toe adjustment and printouts
• Ball-joint and bushing deflection measured under load
• Shock dyno or damper performance testing on advanced rigs
• Corner-weighting and ride-height calibration on performance/air systems
• NVH analysis to pinpoint source of clunks or vibrations
• Road-force wheel/tire balancing to resolve persistent shakes

These services not only confirm faults but also protect new components by ensuring correct geometry and calibration.

Red Flags Requiring Immediate Service

Certain findings imply safety-critical faults that should not wait.

• Steering that binds, sticks, or loses assist suddenly
• Severe fluid leaks from a strut/shock or steering rack
• Loud metal-on-metal clunks or a wheel that visibly wobbles
• Broken spring, collapsed airbag, or drastically uneven ride height
• EPS or steering warnings illuminated, especially with reduced assist

Stop driving and arrange inspection if you encounter these; failures can escalate quickly and compromise control.

Maintenance and Prevention

Routine care reduces wear, maintains handling, and extends tire life.

• Rotate tires every 5,000–7,500 miles and maintain correct pressures
• Get a four-wheel alignment after curb impacts, suspension work, or new tires
• Inspect boots and bushings at every oil change; catch tears early
• Wash winter road salt from undercarriage to preserve bushings and hardware
• Replace shocks/struts and wear items in axle pairs and torque fasteners at ride height

A small investment in routine checks prevents the cascade of wear that follows from misalignment or failed dampers.

Typical Lifespans and Cost Ranges

Lifespan varies by road conditions and vehicle weight, but these rough ranges help with planning and budgeting.

• Shocks/struts: 60,000–100,000 miles; parts and labor often $500–$1,200 per axle (more for adaptive systems)
• Tie rods/ball joints/control arms: 80,000–150,000 miles; $200–$900 per side depending on design
• Wheel bearings: 70,000–120,000 miles; $250–$600 per corner
• Hydraulic PS service/repairs: Fluid flush $100–$200; racks $900–$2,000+
• Alignment: $100–$250; ADAS calibration, if required, adds $150–$500+

Always request an itemized estimate and alignment printouts; quality parts and correct calibration pay back in safety and tire life.

Summary

A reliable check of suspension and steering starts with a methodical test drive, followed by visual and hands-on inspections for leaks, wear, and play, plus a scan of modern electronic systems. Look for uneven tire wear, off-center steering, noises, fluid leaks, and joint or bearing play. Address red flags immediately, and use professional alignment and calibration to finish any repair. Consistent preventive care keeps your car tracking straight, riding comfortably, and stopping safely.

How to check car suspension conditions?

To check your car’s suspension, first perform the bounce test by pushing down on the hood and counting the bounces. Then, with the car lifted on a jack and wheel off the ground, physically shake the tire to find looseness, and inspect shocks for leaks, springs for damage, and all rubber bushings for cracks or deterioration. You should also listen for noises during a test drive and check for uneven tire wear patterns. 
1. The Bounce Test

• Procedure: With the car on a flat surface, firmly push down on the hood or roof. 
• What to look for: Release the pressure and count the number of times the car bounces. 
• Indication of a problem: If the car bounces more than two or three times, the shock absorbers or struts are likely worn out. 

You can watch this video to learn how to perform a bounce test: 29sCarParts.comYouTube · Sep 26, 2024
2. Visual Inspection (with Car Lifted)

• Procedure: Safely lift the vehicle using a jack and place it on jack stands. 
• Check Ball Joints: Grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions and shake it. Also, grab it at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. 
• Check Tie Rods: Grab the tire at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions and shake it back and forth to check for play in the tie rod ends. 
• Check Strut & Spring Assembly: Shake the strut assembly where it attaches to the vehicle to ensure it’s solid. 
• Examine Components: Look for cracks, splits, or dry rot in the rubber boots of the ball joints and tie rods. Inspect control arm, sway bar, and strut bushings for deterioration. 
• Check Shocks/Struts: Look for signs of oil or fluid leaks from the shock absorbers or struts. 
• Inspect Springs: Look for any signs of sagging or damage to the coil springs. 

This video demonstrates how to check for play in the suspension components: 49sChrisFixYouTube · Dec 30, 2013
3. Driving and Listening

• Listen for noises: Drive slowly over speed bumps and uneven surfaces to listen for clunking, banging, or creaking sounds. 
• Feel for changes: Pay attention to changes in your vehicle’s handling, such as: 
  • Swaying or excessive body roll when cornering. 
  • The front end diving down during braking. 
  • The rear of the vehicle squatting during acceleration. 
  • Bouncing or sliding on rough roads. 
  • Feeling vibrations in the steering wheel. 

This video shows how to listen for suspension noises while driving: 59sEricTheCarGuyYouTube · Sep 19, 2011
4. Tire Wear Patterns 

• Inspect for uneven wear: Check your tires for unusual patterns of uneven wear, which can indicate a problem with the suspension not distributing weight evenly.

How to check the condition of suspension and steering systems?

Suspension

1. Test the shocks by bouncing the vehicle at each corner.
2. Check the ride height of the vehicle against the manufacturer’s specification.
3. Look for damage to the sway bar due to hitting an object in the roadway or as the result of a collision.
4. Try to move suspension components manually to check for looseness.

How do you diagnose suspension system?

10 Signs Your Suspension Is Going Bad

1. Difficulty Steering. When driving, the steering wheel should be steady.
2. Vehicle Pulling to One Side.
3. Excess and Uneven Tire Wear.
4. Leaking Around Shocks and Struts.
5. Unusual Noises.
6. Car Bounces After a Speed Bump.
7. Vehicle Leaning to One Side.
8. Abnormal Swaying or Body Roll.

What are the 5 steps to diagnose problems with suspension systems?

To diagnose suspension problems, follow these five steps: first, perform a visual inspection for leaks, rust, or damage to shocks, struts, and springs; second, conduct a bounce test to check the shock absorbers’ effectiveness; third, listen for unusual noises while driving or turning; fourth, examine tires for uneven wear, a sign of suspension imbalance; and finally, check the car’s ride height for unevenness, which could indicate damaged or saggy springs. 
1. Perform a Visual Inspection 

• Park the car: on a flat, level surface. 
• Inspect components: for signs of wear or damage, including: 
  • Shocks and struts: Look for oil or fluid leaks, cracks, or rust. 
  • Springs: Check for cracks, breaks, or signs of sagging. 
  • Bushings: Examine for tears, cracks, or damage on control arm and sway bar bushings. 

2. Conduct a Bounce Test 

• Push down firmly: on one corner of the vehicle’s hood or trunk and then release it. 
• Observe the rebound: If the vehicle bounces more than two or three times, the shocks or struts are likely worn out and may need replacement. 

3. Listen for Unusual Noises 

• Listen carefully: while driving over speed bumps, rough roads, or when turning corners. 
• Identify the sound: Look for noises such as clunks, creaks, thuds, rattles, or grinding sounds, which can point to worn-out ball joints, control arm bushings, or other failing parts. 

4. Check for Uneven Tire Wear 

• Examine the tire treads: for patterns like cupping or excessive wear on one side.
• Interpret the wear: Uneven tire wear indicates that the suspension is not distributing weight evenly, which can be caused by worn shocks, failing bushings, or a need for wheel alignment.

5. Measure Ride Height 

• Park the car on a flat surface: and look at it from the side. 
• Compare the height: of each corner. 
• Look for significant differences: If one side of the car is noticeably lower than the other, it could be a sign of a broken or saggy spring, or a worn-out shock absorber on that side.