How to Check If Your Power Steering Is Working

Start the engine and turn the steering wheel at parking-lot speeds: if effort is light and consistent, the wheel returns toward center after a turn, there’s no whining or grinding noise, no dashboard warning light, and (for hydraulic systems) the fluid level is correct with no leaks, your power steering is working. Below is a clear, step-by-step guide to confirm this on both hydraulic and electric systems and to spot early signs of trouble.

What Power Steering Does and the Systems You Might Have

Power steering reduces the force needed to turn the wheel, especially at low speeds. Most modern vehicles use Electric Power Steering (EPS), which has no fluid. Older and some heavy-duty vehicles use Hydraulic Power Steering (HPS) with a fluid pump, belt, hoses, and a steering rack. Some models use Electro-Hydraulic systems (EHPS) that blend both. Knowing your system helps you check the right components.

Quick At-Home Checks

Tools and Setup

You won’t need much to verify steering assist at home, but a few basics make the process easier and safer.

• Flat, open area (empty parking lot)
• Flashlight and paper towels
• Tire pressure gauge
• OBD-II scanner (helpful for EPS/EHPS warning codes, optional)
• Owner’s manual (to identify the correct power steering fluid, if applicable)

Having these items ready helps you complete checks efficiently and avoids misdiagnosis from simple issues like low tire pressure.

Step-by-Step Functional Test

These steps confirm whether assist is present, consistent, and quiet under common driving conditions.

1. Set baseline: Verify front tires are properly inflated and the vehicle is on level ground.
2. Engine-off feel: With the engine off, gently try to turn the wheel. It should feel heavy—this is your no-assist baseline.
3. Start the vehicle: With the engine running (and ignition on for EPS), turn the wheel at a standstill. It should feel noticeably lighter than with the engine off.
4. Listen and observe: Turn slowly to near full lock in both directions. Briefly hold at the end of travel (no more than 2–3 seconds). Note any whining, grinding, or shudder.
5. Return-to-center test: After a low-speed turn, ease your hands and see if the wheel naturally moves back toward center; smooth, steady return indicates proper assist and geometry.
6. Low-speed drive: In an empty lot, make slow figure-eights. Feel for consistent effort, no jerks, and no pulsing through the wheel.
7. Warning lights: Check the dash for a steering or EPS light. If illuminated, scan for codes in the steering/ABS modules.
8. Temperature check: After 10–15 minutes of driving, repeat a slow turn. Intermittent heaviness when hot can indicate pump fade (HPS) or motor thermal protection (EPS).
9. Avoid damage: Don’t hold the wheel at full lock for more than a few seconds; it can overheat pumps (HPS) or motors (EPS).

If the wheel is consistently light, smooth, quiet, and recenters with no warning indicators, your power steering is functioning normally under typical conditions.

What to Look, Hear, and Feel For

Symptoms can point you toward the correct system or component at fault.

• Very heavy steering at low speeds: Loss of assist (pump, belt, motor, or electrical issue)
• Pulsing or shudder while turning: Air in hydraulic fluid, failing pump, or uneven assist
• Whining or groaning when turning: Low fluid, aerated fluid, or a worn pump (HPS)
• Intermittent assist or assist only at certain RPM: Slipping belt (HPS) or EPS thermal or voltage issues
• Poor return-to-center: Low caster/alignment issue, sticky rack, or inadequate assist
• Wandering/drift on straight roads: Often alignment/tires/suspension rather than assist
• EPS warning lamp: Fault in motor, torque sensor, angle sensor, or power supply
• Burning smell or smoke: Belt slip (HPS) or overheated EPS motor—stop and inspect
• Visible fluid leak or foamy fluid in reservoir: Hydraulic leak or air ingestion (HPS/EHPS)

Match these signs with the system your vehicle uses to narrow down the likely cause before repairing or seeking service.

System-Specific Checks

Hydraulic Power Steering (HPS)

If your vehicle has a fluid reservoir and a pump driven by a belt, use these checks to verify assist and system health.

• Fluid level and condition: Check the reservoir with the engine off. Fluid should be at the marked range (hot/cold per cap) and be clean (typically red or amber, not dark or foamy). Use only the fluid specified in the manual.
• Belt and drive: Inspect the serpentine belt for cracks or glazing and verify proper tension; a slipping belt reduces pump output.
• Noise under load: A persistent whine or groan while turning often indicates low fluid or a failing pump.
• Leaks: Look around the pump, pressure and return hoses, and rack boots for wetness. Leaks can draw in air and reduce assist.
• Air in system: Foamy fluid or bubbles suggest air; after fixing leaks, bleed per manufacturer procedure to restore smooth assist.
• One-direction heaviness: Can indicate an internal rack control valve issue or restriction in a hose.
• Professional pressure test: A shop can measure pump output pressure/flow to confirm pump or rack health.

Healthy hydraulic systems have the correct fluid at the right level, a solid belt drive, no leaks, and quiet, consistent assist across the steering range.

Electric Power Steering (EPS) and Electro-Hydraulic (EHPS)

Most modern cars use EPS with no fluid; EHPS uses an electric pump with fluid. Electrical supply and sensors are key here.

• Battery and charging health: Low system voltage reduces assist. Verify battery state and alternator output (typically ~13.8–14.7V running).
• Fuses and relays: Check the EPS/EHPS fuses and main power relays listed in the fuse box diagram.
• Scan for codes: Use an OBD-II scanner that can read the steering module; look for torque sensor, motor, angle sensor, or power faults.
• Warning indicators: An illuminated steering/EPS light generally disables or limits assist until the fault is addressed.
• Overheat/thermal protection: Hard parking maneuvers can heat EPS motors; if assist fades then returns after cooling, thermal limiting is likely.
• Sensor calibration: After alignment or battery disconnect, some vehicles require steering angle or torque sensor recalibration.
• Software/TSBs: Dealers may have software updates or bulletins addressing EPS feel, noise, or intermittent assist.

Robust electrical power and clean sensor data are essential for EPS/EHPS; diagnosing warnings with a scanner greatly speeds fault isolation.

Is It Steering Assist—or Something Else?

Some issues feel like power steering failure but stem from tires, alignment, or suspension. Use these contrasts to avoid the wrong repair.

• Low tire pressure: Causes heavy steering and pull; check and correct before deeper diagnosis.
• Alignment (caster/camber/toe): Poor return-to-center or highway wander often points to alignment, not assist.
• Suspension binding (ball joints/struts/top mounts): Notchy or springy steering can come from mechanical binding.
• Wheel bearings or brakes dragging: Can mimic heavy steering or pull under braking.
• Steering column U-joints: Rusted or seized joints cause stiffness independent of assist.

Ruling out these common non-assist causes ensures you focus on the true source of steering effort or feel problems.

Safety and Maintenance Tips

A few habits can prolong system life and prevent sudden loss of assist.

• Do not hold the wheel at full lock for more than a few seconds.
• Use only manufacturer-approved fluid (HPS/EHPS) and never mix types.
• Keep the reservoir at the proper level; wipe spills to spot new leaks early.
• Maintain correct tire pressures and rotate tires on schedule.
• Replace worn belts and address any squeal promptly (HPS).
• After battery work or alignment, perform any required EPS recalibration per the manual.

Consistent maintenance reduces wear on pumps, motors, and racks, and preserves predictable steering feel.

When to See a Professional

If basic checks point to a deeper fault, it’s time for specialized tools or repairs.

• Persistent EPS warning lights or stored fault codes
• Severe leaks, foamy fluid that returns after bleeding, or rapid fluid loss
• No assist even with proper voltage and fuses (EPS) or after belt/fluid checks (HPS)
• Grinding noises, metal shavings in fluid, or binding at specific wheel angles
• Steering that is heavy in only one direction

Professional diagnosis can verify pump pressure, rack condition, electrical integrity, and sensor calibration to restore safe operation.

Summary

To confirm your power steering works: ensure proper tire pressure, compare steering effort with the engine off versus running, listen for abnormal noises while turning, check for smooth return-to-center, verify no warning lights, and (for hydraulic systems) inspect fluid level and leaks. For EPS/EHPS, confirm healthy voltage, fuses, and scan for codes. If effort is light, smooth, and consistent with no noises or alerts, the system is functioning. Any heaviness, noise, leaks, or warnings warrant further inspection or professional service.

How to reset power steering?

And wait 5 seconds. And return the steering wheel to. Center. Turn off the car. Turn it back on. And test to see that your power steering feels much more fluid.

How do I know if power steering is working?

So the way I like to tell people to check this is when the engine’s off the steering should be really stiff. It’s not locked. It’s just this hard to move.

How do you test power steering?

A power steering test can be a basic visual inspection for leaks and fluid condition, a simple “feel” test with the engine on to check for smooth, assisted steering, or a more involved power steering pressure test using a gauge to measure pump output and identify system restrictions. The pressure test specifically diagnoses hydraulic power steering systems and is performed by measuring idle pressure, then “dead-heading” the pump to find its maximum pressure capability. For electric power steering (EPS), a multimeter is used to test the motor’s resistance and voltage.
 
Visual and Feel Test (DIY)

1. Check Fluid: Look at the power steering fluid reservoir for proper fill level and check for any dark, dirty, or burnt-smelling fluid. 
2. Inspect for Leaks: With the engine off, use a flashlight to check the pump, hoses, and connections for any signs of leaks. 
3. Engine On: Start the engine and turn the wheel from lock to lock. 
   • Listen: Pay attention to unusual noises like whining or groaning. 
   • Feel: The steering should feel smooth and light. If it feels heavy or doesn’t move easily, there’s a power steering issue. 

Pressure Test (Hydraulic Systems)
This is a more advanced test that requires a power steering pressure gauge. 

1. Connect Gauge: Install the pressure gauge between the high-pressure hose and the steering gear. 
2. Warm Up & Bleed: Start the engine and run it until the fluid is at operating temperature, turning the wheel lock-to-lock to remove air from the system. 
3. Check Idle Pressure: With the shut-off valve on the tester open, measure the system pressure at idle. It should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. 
4. Dead-Head Test: Close the valve on the tester to “dead-head” the pump and find its maximum pressure. 
   • Caution: Do not hold the valve closed for more than about 5 seconds to prevent damage to the pump. 
5. Interpret Results:
   • Low Pressure: If the pump pressure is low, there may be a problem with the pump or its belt. 
   • Normal Pressure: If pump pressure is good, the issue could be in the steering gear or hoses. A pressure test that shows a significant drop when the wheel is turned indicates a problem with the steering unit. 

Electric Power Steering (EPS) Test

1. Access Motor: Disconnect the wiring from the power steering motor. 
2. Check Resistance: Use a multimeter to check the resistance across the motor terminals. 
3. Check Voltage: With the engine on, check for proper voltage to the motor. 
4. Consult Manual: Always refer to the vehicle’s manufacturer’s procedures for specific test values. 

What is the most common cause of power steering failure?

The most common causes of power steering failure are a power steering fluid leak and issues with the power steering pump itself, with other causes including a loose or slipped drive belt, worn hoses, and, in the case of electric power steering (EPS), a faulty electronic control unit (ECU) or motor. Low or contaminated fluid can starve the pump, causing it to fail, while a leak is often the root cause of low fluid levels. 
Common Problems with Hydraulic Power Steering 

• Leaking Fluid: Opens in new tabLeaks are a frequent problem because high-pressure fluid flows through hoses and connections, which can wear out over time, crack, or develop loose couplings. 
• Low Fluid Levels: Opens in new tabA leak directly leads to low fluid levels, which can then damage the pump as it tries to operate with air instead of fluid. 
• Worn-Out Power Steering Pump: Opens in new tabThe pump’s seals and internal parts can wear out with age and use, leading to a loss of pressure or complete failure. 
• Slipped or Broken Drive Belt: Opens in new tabThe belt that drives the pump can slip off or break, preventing the pump from working. 
• Clogged Hoses or Contaminated Fluid: Opens in new tabDebris, wear from internal components, or even old, dirty fluid can restrict fluid flow, overworking the pump and causing it to fail. 

Common Problems with Electric Power Steering (EPS)

• Electronic Control Unit (ECU) Failure: A malfunction in the ECU can cause the power assist to be lost or intermittent. 
• Malfunctioning Electric Motor: The electric motor that provides the assist can fail, leading to difficult steering. 
• Blown Fuse: A simple blown fuse can cut power to the electric power steering system. 
• Loose or Faulty Connections: Loose wiring or connections to the motor or ECU can cause the system to malfunction.