How to Do Brakes Step by Step: A Complete DIY Guide

In brief: safely lift and support the car, remove the wheel, retract the caliper piston, replace pads (and rotors if worn), reassemble with correct torque, then pump the pedal and bed-in the brakes. Doing brakes correctly involves careful prep, the right tools, attention to torque specs, and awareness of vehicle-specific systems like electric parking brakes; the walkthrough below covers modern disc brakes, drum brakes, bleeding, and bedding-in.

Safety, Scope, and When Not to DIY

Brakes are a critical safety system. If you lack the tools, space, or confidence—or if you encounter seized fasteners, brake fluid leaks, or warning lights you can’t clear—hire a professional. Always consult your vehicle’s service manual for torque values, procedures, and any special steps (especially for electric parking brakes, hybrid/EV service modes, and rear calipers that require “wind-back” tools). Work on a flat surface, use jack stands, wear eye/respiratory protection, and keep parts clean.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are commonly required to perform a brake job; your exact list may vary by vehicle design.

• Floor jack and jack stands (rated for your vehicle), wheel chocks
• Lug wrench and a torque wrench (ft-lb/N·m), breaker bar
• Socket/bit set, including hex/Torx for caliper pins; line wrench for bleeders
• Caliper hanger (hook/wire), C-clamp or piston compressor; wind-back tool for some rear calipers
• Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, lint-free towels
• High-temperature silicone/synthetic brake grease (rubber-safe), anti-seize for hub face (sparingly)
• New pads, rotors (or drums/shoes), and hardware clips/shims as applicable
• Dial indicator and hub brush (ideal for rotor runout/hub cleaning)
• Turkey baster or fluid syringe; clear hose and catch bottle for bleeding
• Correct brake fluid (DOT 3/4/5.1 as specified—never mix with DOT 5 silicone)
• Scan tool or OEM procedure for electric parking brake service mode (if equipped)
• PPE: gloves, safety glasses, dust mask/respirator

Having the right tools reduces the chance of damaged components, speeds the job, and improves safety. If you’re missing specialty items like a wind-back tool or scan tool for EPB, plan ahead.

Step-by-Step: Disc Brake Pads and Rotors (Most Cars)

This sequence outlines a typical front or rear disc brake service on modern vehicles, including pad and rotor replacement. Always cross-check the order and torque values with your service manual.

1. Preparation: Review the manual for torque specs, pad orientation, rotor minimum thickness, and any EPB requirements. Disable auto-hold and stop/start; set the transmission to Park (or 1st gear for manuals) and release the parking brake unless the procedure requires EPB service mode.
2. Secure the vehicle: Park on level ground, chock opposite wheels, and crack the lug nuts 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.
3. Lift and support: Jack the vehicle at approved jacking points and set it securely on jack stands. Remove the wheel.
4. Initial inspection: Check hoses for cracks, look for fluid leaks, assess pad thickness and wear patterns, and examine rotor surfaces for grooves, heat spots, or cracks.
5. Manage brake fluid: Open the hood. If the master cylinder reservoir is near “MAX,” extract a little fluid so it won’t overflow when you retract caliper pistons.
6. EPB note: If the axle has electric parking brakes, place the system in service mode with a scan tool or OEM procedure before retracting pistons. Never force EPB calipers.
7. Remove caliper: Remove caliper guide pin bolts. Slide the caliper off and hang it with a hook. Do not let it dangle by the hose.
8. Remove pads and hardware: Slide out the pads; note any wear sensor or inner/outer specifics. Remove old anti-rattle clips/shims if included with your kit.
9. Remove caliper bracket: Unbolt the caliper carrier/bracket to access the rotor.
10. Remove rotor: Remove any set screw. If the rotor is stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap the hat area with a mallet or use the threaded jacking holes (if provided) to push it off.
11. Clean hub: Brush rust from the hub face until clean and flat. A clean hub prevents rotor runout. Wipe with brake cleaner. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub face (avoid studs and rotor friction surfaces).
12. Prep new rotor: Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective oil. Mount the rotor and temporarily secure with a lug nut to keep it seated.
13. Service slide pins: Pull caliper slide pins from the bracket, clean them, inspect boots, and re-lubricate with rubber-safe silicone/synthetic caliper grease. Ensure boots seat and seal.
14. Install hardware: Fit new anti-rattle/abutm ent clips into the bracket. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to pad contact points (ears/tabs). Do not get grease on pad friction surfaces or rotor.
15. Reinstall bracket: Bolt the caliper bracket back on and torque to specification.
16. Retract piston: For standard pistons, open the bleeder slightly and slowly compress the piston with a C-clamp or compressor; close the bleeder before releasing pressure. For wind-back designs, use the correct tool to rotate and push the piston in, aligning notches as required. Watch the reservoir level.
17. Install pads: Fit inner and outer pads into the clips. Ensure any directional arrows, chamfers, or wear sensors are correctly oriented as specified.
18. Reinstall caliper: Slide the caliper over the pads without forcing. Thread guide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading and torque to spec.
19. Reinstall wheel: Put the wheel back on, hand-thread lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and torque lugs in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s spec.
20. Finalize: Top off brake fluid with the correct type if needed. Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle. If you used EPB service mode, exit the mode and cycle the parking brake per OEM instructions. Perform a controlled road test and complete pad/rotor bedding-in.

These steps cover the majority of disc brake jobs. Differences arise with EPB calipers, direction-specific pads, pinned rotors, or aluminum knuckles that have unique torque angles—your manual takes precedence.

Bedding-In New Pads and Rotors

Proper bedding deposits an even layer of pad material onto rotors, minimizing noise, judder, and premature wear.

1. Find a safe, open road. From about 60 mph (100 km/h), brake firmly down to ~10–15 mph (15–25 km/h) without locking wheels or activating ABS. Do not stop completely.
2. Repeat 8–10 times, allowing moderate cooling airflow between stops (keep moving).
3. Drive for 10–15 minutes with minimal braking to cool the brakes.
4. For performance pads, follow the manufacturer’s specific bedding routine if it differs.

After bedding, brakes may smell or emit light smoke briefly—this can be normal. Avoid hard stops from high speed for the first 200–300 miles unless bedding instructions say otherwise.

If Your Car Has an Electric Parking Brake (EPB)

Many 2014+ vehicles use EPB. Forcing pistons without service mode can damage motors and trigger faults. Use a capable scan tool or the OEM sequence to retract and later re-engage the system.

Here’s the typical EPB service approach; consult your model-specific procedure.

1. Ignition on (engine off), connect a scan tool and select “EPB service/maintenance mode,” or follow the OEM button/sequence to retract the parking brake actuators.
2. Proceed with pad/rotor service. Do not power the EPB during caliper removal or with pads out.
3. After reassembly and pedal pumping, command “EPB exit service mode” with the scan tool or OEM procedure.
4. Cycle the EPB on/off several times, check for warning lights, and clear codes if needed.

Some brands allow a manual override; others strictly require a scan tool. If you cannot place the EPB in service mode, do not continue—seek professional help.

Drum Brakes (If Equipped)

While most fronts are discs, some vehicles still have rear drum brakes. Shoe replacement is more intricate due to springs and self-adjusters; replace hardware and shoes in pairs.

1. Release the parking brake. Remove the drum; if stuck, back off the star-wheel adjuster through the access slot and tap the drum evenly.
2. Take reference photos. Drum hardware is mirrored side-to-side but not identical in layout.
3. Remove return springs and hold-down springs with proper tools. Lift off the shoes and disconnect the parking-brake lever and adjuster assembly.
4. Clean backing plate contact points; lightly grease those pads (not the friction surfaces). Install new hardware kit.
5. Assemble new shoes with the adjuster and parking-brake lever transferred correctly. Ensure the primary/secondary shoe positions are correct (often shorter lining forward).
6. Reinstall springs in the correct order and orientation. Double-check against your photos and manual.
7. Adjust the star wheel until the drum slides on with slight, even drag. Refit the drum and road-wheel, then torque the lugs.

After drum service, operate the brakes and parking brake repeatedly to self-center and fine-tune the adjuster, then recheck for drag and noise.

Bleeding Brakes or Flushing Fluid

Bleed the system any time you open a hydraulic connection or if the pedal feels spongy. A fluid flush every 2–3 years is common unless your manual says otherwise. Follow the correct wheel order—often farthest to closest (RR, LR, RF, LF), but some use diagonal circuits.

The steps below outline a two-person manual bleed; vacuum or pressure bleeders also work well.

1. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up with the correct fluid. Do not let it run dry.
2. Attach clear hose to the bleeder screw and route into a catch bottle partially filled with clean fluid.
3. With the engine off, have a helper press the pedal slowly and hold it down.
4. Crack the bleeder 1/4 turn; fluid and air will flow. Close the bleeder before the helper releases the pedal.
5. Repeat until no air bubbles appear, then torque the bleeder snugly (do not over-tighten) and move to the next wheel in the specified order.
6. Wipe any spills, verify a firm pedal, and road-test carefully.

If the pedal remains soft, recheck for leaks, trapped air, or ABS-related bleed procedures (some systems require a scan tool to cycle valves).

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These pitfalls cause noise, uneven wear, or unsafe braking; steer clear of them.

• Skipping jack stands or working on an incline
• Letting a caliper hang by its hose
• Contaminating pads/rotors with grease or fingerprints
• Reusing old hardware or dry slide pins; using petroleum grease on rubber boots
• Ignoring rotor minimum thickness/runout or not cleaning the hub face
• Forcing EPB or wind-back pistons without the proper procedure/tool
• Incorrect pad orientation (directional arrows, wear sensor placement)
• Over/under-torquing bracket, pin, or lug fasteners
• Mixing incompatible brake fluids (never mix DOT 5 silicone with DOT 3/4/5.1)

A meticulous, clean approach with proper lubrication and torque usually prevents most brake complaints like squeal, pulsation, or pull.

Environmental and Legal Notes

Brake service produces hazardous waste and dust; dispose responsibly and keep dust out of the air.

• Do not blow brake dust with compressed air; use wet methods and a HEPA vacuum where possible.
• Dispose of used brake fluid, pads/shoes, and rotors at approved recycling or hazardous waste facilities.
• As of the mid-2020s, many regions require low-/zero-copper pads; choose copper-free, low-dust formulations where available.
• Assume older drum shoes may contain asbestos; avoid creating airborne dust and follow local regulations.

Following local rules protects you and the environment and may be legally required in your area.

Quick Reference: Typical Values and Checks (Always Verify)

These general ranges are common, but your vehicle’s service manual overrides them.

• Lug nuts: roughly 80–100 ft-lb (108–135 N·m) for many cars; 100–150 ft-lb (135–200 N·m) for many SUVs/trucks
• Caliper guide pins: roughly 20–35 ft-lb (27–47 N·m)
• Caliper bracket bolts: roughly 70–110 ft-lb (95–150 N·m)
• Rotor minimum thickness and runout: check specs etched on the rotor or in the manual; new runout generally under ~0.002–0.004 in (0.05–0.10 mm)
• Bleeder screws: snug plus a bit; overtightening damages seats—follow spec

When in doubt, look up the exact value by VIN or service manual—guessing torque can lead to failures or warped rotors.

Summary

Doing brakes step by step means working safely, replacing parts methodically, lubricating the right areas, torquing fasteners to spec, and finishing with a proper bleed and bedding-in. With the correct tools and procedures—especially for EPB-equipped vehicles—you can achieve quiet, consistent, long-lasting braking performance. If anything seems unclear or out of spec, stop and consult the service manual or a professional technician.

How do brakes work step by step?

Forward towards the inside brake pad when the brake pedal is pushed. This causes the caliper to move along the slide pins which then pulls the outside brake pad up against the brake disc rotor.

How to do a brake job step by step?

There are four simple steps to changing your brake pads and rotors. First, you want to safely lift the car off the ground and then remove the wheel. Second, remove the brake pads, unbolt the caliper, and remove the rotor. Third, put the new rotor on, reattach the caliper, and install the new brake pads.

What is the 30 30 30 rule for brakes?

The “30-30-30 rule” for brakes is a method for bedding-in new brake pads and rotors, involving 30 gradual stops from 30 mph, with 30 seconds of cooling time between each stop. This process creates a uniform layer of pad material on the rotor surface, ensuring optimal friction, preventing brake judder, and maximizing performance and longevity. 
Steps for Bedding-In Brakes (30-30-30 Rule)

1. Prepare the Brakes: Ensure new rotors are clean and any old oil or debris is removed with brake cleaner. 
2. Perform the Stops:
   • Accelerate to 30 mph, then apply the brakes gradually to slow down to a near stop or to about 5 mph. 
   • Do not use hard, sudden braking, as this can cause material to melt or transfer unevenly. 
3. Cool Down: After each stop, coast or hold the brakes for approximately 30 seconds. This prevents the rotors from overheating and distorting. 
4. Repeat: Complete this stop-and-cool cycle 30 times. 
5. Gentle Driving Follow-Up: For the next 300-500 miles, avoid heavy braking and drive gently to allow the new friction interface to fully settle. 

Why Bedding-In is Important

• Improves Contact Surface: Creates a uniform surface for the pad material to deposit on. 
• Prevents Vibration: A uniform transfer layer prevents the slip-grip-slip pattern that causes brake judder. 
• Maximizes Performance: Ensures the brakes perform at their best and helps them last longer. 
• Conditions Rotors: Prevents hotspots and rotor distortion by managing heat buildup. 

How to brake for beginners?

But it does take a bit of practice i’ll show you again. So brake.