How to Fix Steering Not Working: What to Do Now and How to Diagnose the Cause

If your steering isn’t working, pull over safely, switch on hazard lights, and call for a tow—do not continue driving. In many cars, a sudden loss of assist is often a power-steering issue (low fluid, failed belt, blown EPS fuse), while a steering wheel that turns without moving the wheels can indicate a dangerous mechanical failure like a broken tie rod. The steps below explain immediate safety actions, quick checks you can do, and the most common fixes for cars with hydraulic or electric power steering, plus guidance for bikes, tractors, boats, and gaming wheels.

Immediate safety steps if steering fails while driving

Steering problems on the road require calm, deliberate actions to protect you and others. The sequence below prioritizes control, visibility, and getting the vehicle stopped without making the situation worse.

1. Grip the wheel firmly with both hands; avoid sudden inputs.
2. Turn on hazard lights and signal your intention to move off the roadway.
3. Ease off the accelerator; do not slam the brakes. Gently brake as needed to slow.
4. Shift to neutral on a steep descent if the engine is surging, but maintain control first.
5. Steer gradually to the shoulder or a safe area; expect heavy effort if power assist is lost.
6. Once stopped, set the parking brake and place the transmission in Park (or in gear for manuals).
7. Call roadside assistance or a tow; do not attempt to drive if the steering does not respond.

These steps help you maintain control, communicate with traffic, and move to safety without compounding the problem. Once stopped, a visual check may reveal clues about the failure.

Quick checks you can do on a car (engine off, parked)

Before diving into repairs, simple inspections can pinpoint common issues—especially distinguishing between lost assist and a mechanical break.

• Steering lock: Ensure the ignition isn’t engaging a steering lock (common if key is partially turned).
• Steering feel test: With the car off, gently turn the wheel. If it spins freely with no wheel movement, suspect a tie rod or column linkage failure. If it’s uniformly heavy but responsive, suspect a power-assist issue.
• Warning lights: Look for a steering/EPS or battery icon on the dash.
• Power-steering fluid (hydraulic systems only): Check the reservoir level and color; foamy or dark fluid indicates issues. Never run the pump dry.
• Drive belt: Inspect for a missing, loose, or broken serpentine belt that powers the pump.
• Leaks: Look under the car for red/amber fluid near the pump, hoses, or steering rack.
• Fuses/relays (EPS): Check the fuse box for blown steering-related fuses; verify relays and connectors are seated.
• Battery/voltage (EPS): Weak batteries can disable electric assist; measure resting voltage (~12.6V) and charging voltage (~13.7–14.7V).
• Tire pressure and damage: Low pressure or a separated tire can mimic steering problems.
• Noises: Whining (pump), clunking (tie rods/ball joints), or grinding (rack/column) help localize faults.

These checks can quickly confirm whether you’re facing a fluid/belt/electrical issue or a critical mechanical failure that requires immediate professional attention.

How to fix common power-steering problems

Hydraulic power steering (older cars and some trucks)

Hydraulic systems use a belt-driven pump, fluid reservoir, hoses, and a steering rack. Loss of assist typically traces to fluid, belt, pump, or leaks.

1. Identify the correct fluid: Confirm whether your vehicle requires PSF or ATF; using the wrong fluid can damage seals.
2. Top up fluid: Fill to the cold/hot mark as specified; avoid overfilling.
3. Bleed air: With the engine off, turn the wheel lock-to-lock slowly 10–15 times, then recheck fluid; repeat after briefly idling if safe. Do not hold at full lock.
4. Inspect/replace the belt: A missing, cracked, or slipping serpentine belt will eliminate assist; replace and set proper tension.
5. Locate and fix leaks: Check pressure and return hoses, pump seals, and rack boots. Replace failing hoses/clamps; if rack boots are full of fluid, the rack may need replacement.
6. Assess the pump: Persistent whining, metal shavings in fluid, or no assist despite proper fluid/belt points to a failing pump—replace as a unit.
7. Evaluate the rack and tie rods: Slop, clunks, or wandering may indicate inner rack wear or tie-rod end failure; replace worn parts and perform an alignment.

Hydraulic systems operate at high pressures; use proper tools and safety gear. If leaks are severe or steering is inconsistent, professional repair is strongly advised.

Electric power steering (EPS)

EPS systems use an electric motor on the column or rack; issues often involve power supply, sensors, or control modules rather than fluid.

1. Scan for codes: Use an OBD-II scanner capable of steering/EPS modules to retrieve fault codes (e.g., steering angle sensor, motor overtemp, voltage).
2. Check power and grounds: Verify battery health, alternator output, main EPS fuses, and ground straps; repair any corroded connectors.
3. Inspect connectors: Look for loose or water-intruded plugs at the column/rack motor and control module.
4. Calibrate the steering angle sensor: Use a scan tool to perform SAS calibration after battery disconnects, alignments, or component replacement.
5. Thermal or overload faults: Let the system cool and recheck; chronic overheating may indicate binding in the rack or failing motor.
6. Software updates/TSBs: Some EPS faults are addressed by software; ask a dealer to check for updates or recalls by VIN.
7. Component replacement: If diagnostics point to a failed column/rack motor or control unit, replacement and programming are typically required.

Because EPS integrates electronics and calibration, specialized tools and procedures are common. If codes persist or assist returns intermittently, seek a qualified technician.

When steering doesn’t respond at all (mechanical link failure)

If the steering wheel turns but the front wheels don’t, there may be a dangerous failure in the linkage or rack. Do not drive; tow the vehicle immediately.

• Broken outer/inner tie rod: Wheel points outward/inward, severe toe-out, clunk or drop on one side.
• Separated ball joint or control arm: Wheel collapse or extreme camber; vehicle may be undrivable.
• Failed steering column U-joint/intermediate shaft: Binding or free-spinning wheel.
• Rack input failure: No response despite intact tie rods; often accompanied by internal noise.
• Hub/knuckle damage: After an impact, the wheel may not hold alignment or respond predictably.

These symptoms indicate a critical condition where continued driving risks a total loss of control. Immediate inspection and repair are necessary.

Once safely towed, a structured plan helps ensure a complete fix without missing hidden damage.

1. Perform a front-end inspection: Lift the car and check tie rods, ball joints, control arms, knuckles, and the steering rack for play or separation.
2. Replace failed components in pairs where appropriate (e.g., tie rods) and torque to spec with new cotter pins.
3. Re-center the steering wheel and verify the rack is on-center before tie-rod adjustment.
4. Complete a four-wheel alignment and road test; recalibrate steering angle sensor if equipped.
5. Recheck fasteners after 50–100 miles.

A thorough post-repair alignment and calibration are essential for modern stability-control systems to function correctly.

Estimated costs and time

Pricing varies by vehicle, part quality, and labor rates. These ballpark figures help you gauge the scope of repair.

• Power-steering fluid: $10–$25; bleed 0.5–1.0 hr.
• Serpentine belt: $75–$250 parts/labor; 0.5–1.5 hr.
• Hydraulic hose: $120–$350; 1–2 hr.
• Power-steering pump: $300–$800; 1–3 hr.
• Steering rack (hydraulic or EPS rack unit): $900–$2,000+; 3–6 hr plus alignment.
• Inner/outer tie rods: $200–$600; 1–2 hr plus alignment.
• EPS column/motor/module: $700–$2,000+; 2–5 hr plus programming.
• Battery/alternator (EPS-related): $150–$300 / $400–$900.
• Wheel alignment: $100–$200.

Confirm whether your vehicle has active recalls or extended warranties for steering components; some EPS issues have manufacturer remedies at no cost.

Preventive maintenance

Routine checks reduce the likelihood of sudden steering problems and extend component life.

• Inspect fluid level and condition at each oil change (hydraulic systems); address seepage early.
• Replace belts proactively if cracked or glazed; ensure proper tension.
• Check tie rods, ball joints, and rack boots annually or at each alignment.
• Keep tires at spec pressure weekly; uneven or low pressure stresses steering.
• Avoid holding the wheel at full lock for more than a few seconds.
• After curb strikes or pothole impacts, have alignment and components checked.
• For EPS, maintain a healthy battery and clean grounds; apply software updates as recommended.

These habits help catch problems early, preserve assist components, and keep the vehicle tracking straight.

Other scenarios: bikes, lawn equipment, boats, and gaming wheels

Bicycle steering issues

Bicycle steering problems often come from loose fasteners or bearing adjustments rather than assist systems.

• Tighten stem bolts and ensure the handlebar is aligned with the front wheel.
• Adjust the headset: Eliminate play without causing binding; check for bearing damage.
• Inspect fork and frame for bends or cracks after crashes.
• Ensure cables/hoses aren’t snagging the bars at full turn.
• True or replace a damaged front wheel if it rubs the frame or brake.

Correct torque and smooth bearing adjustment restore precise, safe steering on most bicycles.

Lawn tractor/ATV steering

Small vehicles use simple linkages that wear at joints and bushings.

• Check drag links, tie-rod ends, and sector gears for play; replace worn parts.
• Grease all steering zerks; dry joints bind and feel notchy.
• Inspect spindle bushings and kingpins for wear or bending.
• Verify front tire pressure and wheel bearings.

Lubrication and replacing inexpensive wear parts usually restore steering on these machines.

Boat steering (cable or hydraulic)

Marine steering commonly binds at the engine end or loses pressure in hydraulic systems.

• Cable systems: Remove the steering cable from the tilt tube, clean corrosion, lubricate, and reinstall; replace seized cables.
• Hydraulic systems: Check fluid level at the helm, top up with the specified fluid, and bleed air from lines; inspect for leaks at fittings and the helm pump.
• Verify engine pivot points are greased and free-moving.

Because steering is a primary safety system on water, address stiffness or play before operating at speed.

Gaming steering wheels (sim racing)

Non-functioning force-feedback wheels often have power, driver, or calibration issues.

• Confirm the power supply is connected and the correct voltage is used.
• Test a different USB port/cable; avoid hubs where possible.
• Install or update drivers/firmware from the manufacturer.
• Run calibration utilities and set correct device profile in your game.
• Disable conflicting devices or background software that may grab the wheel input.

Most sim-wheel issues resolve with proper power, clean USB connectivity, and updated software.

Summary

If steering isn’t working, get safely off the road and arrange a tow. For cars, determine whether you’ve lost assist (fluid, belt, EPS power) or suffered a mechanical failure (tie rod, rack, column joint). Address hydraulic systems with correct fluid, belt and leak repairs; diagnose EPS with codes, power/ground checks, and calibration. After any parts replacement, complete an alignment and sensor recalibration. For bikes, small equipment, boats, and gaming wheels, focus on fasteners, lubrication, and basic power/software checks. When in doubt—or if the wheels don’t respond to the steering wheel—seek professional repair immediately.

What should you do if the steering wheel stops working?

• Check for Power Steering Fluid : Low power steering fluid can cause steering issues.
• Inspect for Obstructions
• Examine the Steering Column
• Check the Battery
• Look for Warning Lights
• Consider Mechanical Issues
• Seek Professional Help

Can I still drive if my power steering goes out?

Yes, you can still drive a vehicle if the power steering goes out, but it is not recommended for an extended period, as the steering will be significantly harder to turn. You must prioritize finding a safe place to pull over and turn off the engine as soon as possible, as driving with a failing power steering system can put you at risk for accidents and potentially cause further damage to the vehicle. 
What to do when power steering fails

1. Stay calm: A sudden loss of power steering can be startling, but remember the car is still controllable. 
2. Reduce your speed: Slowing down will make it easier to manage the heavier steering. 
3. Grip the wheel firmly: Use both hands and steer smoothly to maintain control. 
4. Signal and move to safety: Signal your intentions and pull over to a safe location. 
5. Turn off the engine: This is crucial to prevent further damage to the pump, especially if the fluid is low. 
6. Call for assistance: Get a tow truck to take your vehicle to a repair shop. 

Why it’s risky

• Difficulty steering: Without power assistance, the steering wheel will feel much heavier, requiring more effort to turn, particularly at low speeds or when stopped. 
• Potential for further damage: Continuing to drive, especially with low or no power steering fluid, can quickly lead to costly damage to the power steering pump or other related components. 
• Increased accident risk: The difficulty in steering, especially during an emergency maneuver, significantly increases the risk of an accident. 

How much does it cost to fix steering?

The cost to fix steering varies significantly by the component needed, but a full power steering system repair can range from under $100 for a simple fluid top-off to several hundred or over $1,000 for pump or steering rack replacement. A power steering pump replacement typically costs $500-$900, while replacing a steering rack can cost $600-$1,300 or more. Factors influencing the final price include the vehicle’s make and model, the specific part needed, whether you use new or used parts, and the labor rates. 
Common Steering Issues and Their Costs

• Adding Fluid: Opens in new tabA minor leak might only require adding power steering fluid, costing around $10-$20. 
• Hose or Line Replacement: Opens in new tabReplacing a leaking power steering hose or line can cost between $60-$150. 
• Power Steering Pump Replacement: Opens in new tabThis is a common repair with costs generally ranging from $500 to $900, with labor being a significant portion of the expense. 
• Steering Rack Replacement: Opens in new tabReplacing an entire steering rack is more complex and can cost $600 to $1,300 or more, especially for high-end models. 
• Seal Replacement in the Rack: Opens in new tabFor a steering rack seal leak, the part is inexpensive ($20-$50), but labor costs can make the total $120-$350 due to the required disassembly. 

Factors Affecting Your Repair Cost

• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury and larger vehicles may have more expensive parts and labor. 
• Parts Quality: You may have options like new OEM (original equipment manufacturer), aftermarket, or remanufactured parts, each with different price points and reliability. 
• Labor Costs: The hourly rate for mechanics varies by location, and labor often makes up a significant portion of the total repair cost. 
• Severity of the Issue: A minor leak requiring a fluid top-off is much cheaper than replacing an entire steering rack. 

What to Do

• Identify the Problem: Pay attention to symptoms like hard steering, fluid leaks, or unusual noises. 
• Get a Professional Diagnosis: It’s crucial to have a mechanic diagnose the exact problem to avoid paying for unnecessary repairs. 
• Get Multiple Quotes: Obtain estimates from different repair shops to compare prices for the specific repair needed for your vehicle. 

What causes power steering not to work?

Power steering fails due to hydraulic issues, most commonly low or contaminated power steering fluid, a leaking or damaged hose, or a failing power steering pump. Mechanical problems like a slipping or broken drive belt that powers the pump, or issues with electric power steering such as a faulty battery or voltage issues, can also cause it to go out.
 
Hydraulic Systems

• Low or Contaminated Fluid: Insufficient or dirty fluid can damage components and prevent the system from building pressure, making steering difficult. 
• Fluid Leaks: Hoses can crack, peel, or develop loose couplings, leading to fluid loss. 
• Worn-Out Pump: The pump’s internal seals and bearings wear down with age and use, reducing fluid pressure and eventually causing failure. 

Mechanical Issues (for belt-driven pumps) 

• Slipping or Broken Belt: The drive belt powers the pump; if it slips off or breaks, the pump stops, and power steering is lost.

Electric Power Steering (EPS) Issues

• Electrical Problems: In systems that use electricity instead of hydraulics, a weak or bad battery can prevent the electric motor from providing enough power. 
• Voltage Issues: Insufficient voltage from the alternator can cause the electric power steering to cut in and out. 
• Sensor or Module Failure: Malfunctions in the system’s sensors or control modules can affect the level of steering assist. 

Other Potential Causes

• Tire Pressure: Opens in new tabWhile not a direct cause of power steering failure, very low tire pressure can increase steering resistance, making the wheel feel heavy. 
• Engine Stalling: Opens in new tabIf your engine stalls, the power steering will also stop working because the hydraulic pump is no longer driven.