How to Fix the Power Steering in a Car

Start by confirming your steering system type (hydraulic, electro‑hydraulic, or fully electric), then check fluid level and leaks, belt condition, fuses/relays, battery voltage, and diagnostic trouble codes; top up the correct fluid, repair any leaks, adjust/replace the belt, bleed the system if hydraulic, or recalibrate/update software for electric systems—seek professional help if stiffness, noise, or warning lights persist.

Know Your System: Hydraulic, Electro‑Hydraulic, or Electric

Understanding which kind of power steering you have determines the right fix. Hydraulic systems use fluid and a belt‑driven pump; electro‑hydraulic adds an electric pump; electric power steering (EPS) uses an electric motor and sensors, with no fluid. The steps below map to each type so you don’t waste time or cause damage.

Quick Diagnostic Checklist

This list helps you match common symptoms to likely causes before you start repairs.

• Heavy steering at all speeds: Low/no fluid (hydraulic), failed pump, broken belt, seized rack, EPS motor or sensor fault, low battery/charging issue.
• Whining or groaning when turning: Low fluid, aerated fluid (needs bleed), clogged reservoir screen, failing pump, wrong fluid type.
• Intermittent assist or assist cuts out when parking: Weak battery/alternator (EPS/EHPS), overheated EPS motor, slipping belt, low fluid sloshing.
• Steering wheel kicks or jerks: Air in hydraulic system, internal rack issues, contaminated fluid.
• Wet spots under front of car or on steering components: Hose/line leak, reservoir crack, pump or rack seal leak.
• Power steering warning light or message: EPS fault, blown fuse/relay, steering angle or torque sensor issue; scan for codes.

Use these clues to target checks and avoid unnecessary part swaps; if multiple symptoms appear, tackle the basic causes first (fluid, belt, power supply) before deeper diagnostics.

Safety and Preparation

Power steering work involves flammable fluids, rotating belts, and heavy components. Prepare properly to minimize risk and speed up troubleshooting.

• Park on level ground, chock wheels, and engage the parking brake.
• Wear eye protection and gloves; clean spills immediately (PS fluid/ATF can damage rubber and paint).
• Use jack stands if lifting the front axle; never rely on a jack alone.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal before working on EPS wiring or steering columns (airbag safety).
• Consult the vehicle’s service manual for specifications, procedures, and torque values.

With the right setup and safety steps, you reduce the chance of injury and avoid damaging sensitive steering components and electronics.

Fixes for Hydraulic and Electro‑Hydraulic Systems (HPS/EHPS)

Step-by-step Procedure

Follow these steps in order to address the most common hydraulic steering faults efficiently.

1. Identify the correct fluid: Check the reservoir cap and owner’s manual. Many cars require specific PSF or ATF (e.g., Dexron III); some European models use CHF‑11S/202. Do not mix types.
2. Check fluid level and condition: With the engine off and cool, inspect the dipstick/markings. Dark, burnt, or foamy fluid indicates contamination or air.
3. Inspect for leaks: Examine hoses, clamps, hard lines, the pump, reservoir, and the rack boots. Look for wetness and drip trails.
4. Tighten or replace hoses/clamps: Replace cracked hoses and corroded clamps. Ensure proper routing and clearance from hot or moving parts.
5. Inspect the drive belt and tensioner: Replace glazed, cracked, or stretched belts; verify tensioner operation if the pump is belt‑driven.
6. Service the reservoir: Some have internal filters/screens that clog. Replace the reservoir if the screen is non‑serviceable and fluid is contaminated.
7. Top up with the correct fluid: Fill to the cold level mark, avoiding overfill.
8. Bleed the system: With front wheels off the ground, turn the wheel lock‑to‑lock slowly 10–20 times with engine off, then repeat with engine running until bubbles/noise subside and level stabilizes.
9. Evaluate pump performance: Persistent whining or weak assist may require a pressure test with a gauge kit per the service manual; replace the pump if it fails spec.
10. Assess the rack and pinion: Torn boots with fluid inside or persistent leaks/noises after fixes often indicate a failing rack requiring replacement and an alignment.

Addressing fluid quality, leaks, belts, and bleeding resolves most hydraulic steering issues; only then consider pump or rack replacement, which are costlier and more involved.

Fixes for Electric Power Steering (EPS)

Step-by-step Procedure

EPS relies on stable electrical power and sensor feedback; many faults trace to low voltage or connector issues rather than mechanical failures.

1. Scan for codes: Use an OBD‑II scanner that can read chassis/steering modules. Note freeze‑frame data and follow manufacturer diagnostics for any stored codes.
2. Check battery and charging system: Verify 12.4–12.7 V engine off and about 13.8–14.8 V running. Weak batteries or failing alternators cause heavy steering and EPS shutdowns.
3. Inspect fuses and relays: Locate EPS/EHPS fuses/relays in the main and cabin boxes; replace blown units with the exact rating after finding root cause.
4. Examine connectors and grounds: Look for corrosion or loose grounds at the EPS motor/ECU, steering column, and underhood grounds; clean and secure.
5. Calibrate sensors: Perform steering angle sensor and torque sensor recalibration with a scan tool after alignment, battery replacement, or column work.
6. Software updates and TSBs: Check for manufacturer technical service bulletins or firmware updates that address EPS assist loss or warning lights.
7. Component testing/replacement: If diagnostics point to a failed column/motor/control module, follow OEM procedures for removal, torque specs, and initialization; many require programming after installation.

Because EPS is software‑ and sensor‑driven, stable voltage, clean connections, and proper calibration fix many problems without replacing major components.

How to Bleed a Hydraulic Power Steering System

Air in the system causes noise and weak assist. Proper bleeding restores performance and protects the pump.

1. Raise the front wheels and fill the reservoir to the cold mark with the specified fluid.
2. With the engine off, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock 10–20 times; check and top off fluid as bubbles purge.
3. Start the engine and let it idle; continue turning lock to lock without holding against the stops more than 2–3 seconds.
4. Monitor fluid for foam; pause if needed to let bubbles dissipate and top up to the hot mark when at operating temperature.
5. Lower the vehicle and road‑test; recheck level and inspect for leaks.

If foaming persists, recheck for suction leaks at hose connections or a clogged reservoir screen, which can continuously draw air into the system.

When to Repair vs. Replace

Use these guidelines to decide whether simple service will do or if major parts need replacement.

• Repair/service: Minor hose seepage, loose clamps, old or wrong fluid, glazed belt, clogged reservoir, low battery or bad ground (EPS).
• Replace components: Split pressure hose, noisy or low‑pressure pump that fails testing, leaking rack seals or fluid‑filled boots, EPS motor/module with confirmed fault codes or water intrusion.
• Professional alignment: Required after rack replacement and recommended after any tie‑rod service.

Choosing the least invasive fix first saves money; escalate to component replacement only after confirming failure with tests or visible damage.

Typical Costs and Time

These ballpark figures help with budgeting; prices vary by vehicle, region, and parts brand.

• Fluid flush and bleed: $80–$180 in parts/labor; DIY fluid $15–$60 depending on type.
• Hose replacement: $50–$200 parts; 1–2 hours labor.
• Pump replacement: $120–$450 parts; 1.5–3 hours labor; add fluid and belt if needed.
• Rack and pinion replacement: $400–$1,200 parts; 3–6 hours labor plus alignment.
• EPS diagnostics/calibration: $100–$250; EPS column/module replacement can exceed $800–$2,000.

Confirm exact costs with a quote for your VIN; using OEM‑approved fluids and remanufactured parts can balance reliability and budget.

Environmental and Legal Notes

Dispose of used power steering fluid at a recycling facility; never pour it down drains or onto the ground. Some power steering issues are covered by extended warranties or safety recalls—check with your dealer using your VIN.

FAQs

Below are concise answers to frequent questions that arise during power steering repairs.

• Can I drive with failed power steering? You can steer manually on most vehicles, but it’s unsafe, can damage the pump/rack, and may be illegal if a warning light is on—repair promptly.
• Which fluid should I use? Only the fluid specified by your manufacturer (on the cap/manual). Using the wrong type can damage seals and pumps.
• Why did new fluid turn dark quickly? Severe contamination or internal wear; consider a full flush, reservoir replacement, and pump/rack inspection.
• Steering still heavy after a new pump—why? Air not fully bled, slipping belt, clogged reservoir, failing rack, or incorrect pump for the application.
• EPS light came on after a battery swap—what now? Check fuses and perform steering angle/torque sensor calibration with a scan tool; clear codes.

If issues recur after these steps, a deeper diagnostic with factory service data and a capable scan tool is recommended to avoid repeated part replacements.

Summary

Most power steering fixes start with basics: identify the system, use the correct fluid, stop leaks, ensure proper belt tension or electrical supply, and bleed or calibrate as needed. Persistent noise, leaks, warning lights, or loss of assist after these checks typically point to a failing pump, rack, or EPS unit that requires testing and possible replacement. When in doubt, consult a professional technician and your vehicle’s service manual to protect safety and components.

How much does it cost to fix your power steering?

The cost to fix power steering varies widely, from about $10 for adding fluid to hundreds or even thousands of dollars for major components like a power steering rack or pump replacement. A basic power steering pump replacement typically ranges from $500 to $900, while a full power steering rack replacement can cost upwards of $1,000 to $1,200. The final price depends on the specific part, your vehicle’s make and model, the cost of labor, and whether you choose new or used parts. 
Factors Influencing the Cost

• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury or specialized vehicles often have more expensive parts. 
• Part Type: New OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts are typically more costly than aftermarket or refurbished options. 
• Labor Costs: Labor rates vary by location and mechanic, significantly impacting the total cost. 
• Extent of the Damage: Minor issues like a fluid leak are far less expensive to fix than replacing a major component such as the pump or rack and pinion. 
• Additional Repairs: A failing pump might indicate a more extensive underlying problem, adding to the overall repair cost. 

Common Power Steering Repairs and Their Costs

• Fluid Flush: Opens in new tabAbout $170 to $205 for a flush, though a simple fluid top-off may only be $10 to $20. 
• Hose Replacement: Opens in new tabTypically $150 to $300. 
• Power Steering Pump Replacement: Opens in new tabCan range from $500 to $900, sometimes reaching over $1,000 for certain models. 
• Rack and Pinion Replacement: Opens in new tabExpect to pay $950 to $1,200 or more, including parts, labor, and the necessary wheel alignment. 

What to Do

• Act Quickly: Don’t delay repairs if you suspect a problem, as a failing power steering system is a safety hazard. 
• Get a Diagnosis: Have a qualified mechanic accurately diagnose the issue to determine the exact part that needs replacing. 
• Consider Your Options: Compare prices for OEM, aftermarket, and used parts. 
• DIY vs. Professional: While you can save on labor by doing it yourself, power steering repairs often require specialized tools and skills. 

Can you fix power steering yourself?

Yes, you can fix some power steering issues yourself, such as topping off or replacing the fluid, or applying a power steering stop leak additive for minor leaks. However, if the problem is a hard steering wheel, squealing, clunking, or a completely non-functional power steering system, it likely involves mechanical wear or damage to the power steering pump or steering rack and may require professional tools and expertise to repair. 
DIY Fixes for Minor Issues

• Check and top off power steering fluid: Opens in new tabIf your steering feels difficult or you hear noises, your fluid level might be low. Consult your owner’s manual to add the correct type of fluid. 
• Use a power steering stop leak additive: Opens in new tabFor minor fluid leaks, you can pour a specific additive into the reservoir to help seal small leaks. 
• Perform a fluid flush: Opens in new tabTo remove contaminants and improve handling, you can flush old fluid from the system using a fluid extractor or turkey baster and replace it with new fluid. 

When to See a Professional

• Hard steering: A hard-to-turn wheel often indicates a problem with the power steering pump or a clogged steering rack. 
• Noises: Squealing, clunking, or grinding sounds from the power steering system are signs of a worn pump or other internal issues. 
• Leaks: While stop leak additives can fix very small leaks, persistent or major leaks, or leaks in hoses and seals, may require a professional diagnosis. 
• System failure: If the car is completely impossible to turn or the steering feels significantly different, it’s a serious issue that needs professional repair. 

Key Considerations Before DIY

• Identify the root cause: You need to know if the problem is a low fluid level, a leak, or a failed component before attempting a fix. 
• Use the right tools and fluid: Always use the specific power steering fluid recommended in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, as using the wrong fluid can cause significant damage. 
• Be realistic about your skills: Replacing a power steering pump or working on the steering rack requires specialized knowledge and tools that most home mechanics may not have. 

If you are unsure about the problem or the repair process, it’s always best to consult a trusted mechanic to avoid further damage and ensure safety.

What should you do if your power steering stops working?

Turn Off the Engine: Once stopped, turn off the engine and wait a moment. Restarting the engine may reset the power steering system if it’s an electronic issue. Check for Leaks or Issues: If you feel comfortable, inspect under the hood for any obvious issues, like low power steering fluid or a broken belt.

What is the most common power steering problem?

The most common causes of power steering failure are a low fluid level due to a leak and a worn-out or slipping drive belt that powers the pump. Other causes include a failing power steering pump, a damaged or failing power steering rack, or issues with the system’s hoses, couplings, or, in the case of electric power steering, a faulty control module or motor.
 
For Hydraulic Power Steering (Fluid-Based)

• Fluid Leaks: This is the most frequent cause of power steering issues, leading to low fluid levels and a loss of hydraulic pressure. Leaks can originate from cracked hoses, loose couplings, or a failing power steering rack. 
• Worn-Out Drive Belt: A slipping or damaged belt that drives the power steering pump will prevent the pump from operating, resulting in heavy steering. 
• Failing Power Steering Pump: The pump, which pressurizes the fluid, can wear out over time, leading to reduced pressure, whining noises, and eventual failure. 
• Worn Hoses: Over time, hoses can become cracked, brittle, or lose their seals, leading to fluid leaks. 
• Faulty Power Steering Rack: The steering rack can develop wear and tear, including faulty seals, that can cause fluid leaks and power steering failure. 

For Electric Power Steering (EPS)

• Faulty Control Module: Modern vehicles often use electric power steering, and the onboard computer module is a common point of failure. 
• Failing Electric Motor: The electric motors that assist steering can also fail, leading to loss of power assist. 

How to Troubleshoot

1. Check Fluid Level: Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir and ensure the fluid is at the proper level. 
2. Look for Leaks: Check for any visible fluid leaks under the car, especially around the hoses and steering rack. 
3. Inspect the Belt: Examine the power steering belt for cracks, fraying, or signs of slipping. 
4. Listen for Noises: Pay attention to any whining or grinding noises when turning the steering wheel, which can signal a pump problem. 

If you notice any signs of power steering failure, have the system inspected by a professional to prevent more significant damage and ensure safe driving conditions.