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How to Know if Drum Brakes Need Adjustment

Drum brakes typically need adjustment if you notice longer pedal travel, a parking brake that takes many clicks to hold, weak or uneven rear braking, or scraping/dragging noises from the rear wheels. You can confirm by checking parking-brake effectiveness on a hill and by feeling for slight, even drag at the rear wheels after a manual or self-adjusting procedure. Below is a clear guide to the causes, symptoms, simple tests, and safe next steps.

Why Drum Brakes Go Out of Adjustment

Unlike disc brakes, drum brake shoes rely on a star-wheel mechanism and return springs to maintain the correct clearance with the drum. As shoes wear, the gap increases, and pedal travel grows. Most modern drum setups are “self-adjusting,” using reverse-brake applications or the parking-brake mechanism to take up slack. If the adjuster is sticky, installed incorrectly, or the vehicle is driven primarily in ways that don’t trigger self-adjustment, the brakes can fall out of spec and need manual attention.

Common Symptoms Your Drum Brakes Need Adjustment

The following list outlines the most reliable signs drivers notice when drum brakes are out of adjustment. Use these symptoms as a screening tool before moving to tests or disassembly.

  • Longer brake pedal travel before the car slows, especially compared with recent feel.
  • Parking brake requires more clicks or a higher lever/longer pedal stroke to hold the vehicle.
  • Poor hill-hold: the car creeps on mild inclines unless you yank the parking brake firmly.
  • Rear brakes feel weak; the front brakes seem to do almost all the work in normal stops.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side during braking (one rear brake may be doing more work than the other).
  • Grinding/scraping or rhythmic rubbing from a rear wheel that changes with speed (may also indicate contact from misadjustment or worn hardware).
  • Rear wheel(s) lock up too easily on loose surfaces, or, conversely, never seem to contribute even in hard stops.
  • Inconsistent pedal feel: sometimes high and firm, sometimes low and soft, depending on recent parking-brake use or reverse stops.

If one or more of these symptoms are present, adjustment is likely due—though inspection is wise to rule out worn shoes, leaking wheel cylinders, or seized hardware.

Simple At-Home Checks (No Disassembly)

These quick tests can help confirm whether adjustment is the culprit versus a larger mechanical problem. Perform them in a safe area free of traffic.

  • Parking-brake effectiveness test: On a gentle incline, apply the parking brake firmly. A properly adjusted system should hold the vehicle without excessive lever clicks or pedal travel. Many vehicles hold within roughly 5–8 clicks, but consult your owner’s manual for the correct range.
  • Reverse self-adjust check: In a safe, open space, roll backward a few times to 3–5 mph and brake firmly to a stop (repeat 3–5 times). Some systems adjust during this maneuver. If pedal travel improves afterward, the self-adjusters are working but were behind; if not, they may be stuck and need manual adjustment or service.
  • Pedal feel comparison: After using the parking brake several times, note whether the service brake pedal feels higher. A noticeable improvement suggests the parking-brake-actuated adjusters are taking up slack.
  • Temperature/drag check after a drive: Carefully feel near, not on, each rear wheel/drum after normal braking (use caution—components may be hot). One very warm drum can indicate dragging (over-tight adjustment or stuck hardware); both cool with poor braking can indicate under-adjustment.

These checks don’t replace inspection, but they help narrow the issue to adjustment versus component wear or hydraulic faults.

What You’ll See in a Visual Inspection

If you’re comfortable removing the drums, these inspection points help determine whether simple adjustment will suffice or if parts should be replaced. Always chock front wheels and support the vehicle securely on jack stands before any brake work.

  • Shoe lining thickness: Replace if the friction material is near the manufacturer’s minimum. A common guideline is at or below about 1.5–2.0 mm (around 1/16 inch), but always check your service manual’s spec.
  • Even shoe wear and contact pattern: Shiny glazing at one end only can indicate misadjustment or seized hardware.
  • Star-wheel adjuster condition: It should turn with firm but reasonable effort. Rusted, seized, or stripped adjusters won’t hold proper clearance.
  • Return and hold-down springs: Weak, stretched, or corroded springs can prevent consistent adjustment and shoe retraction.
  • Wheel cylinder leaks: Moist or wet brake dust and fluid weeping indicate a leak that must be fixed before any adjustment.
  • Backing-plate pads: Grooves where the shoes slide can cause sticking; they should be smooth and lightly lubricated with high-temp brake grease.
  • Drum condition: Excessive scoring, heat checking, out-of-round, or an inner lip ridge can complicate adjustment and require machining or replacement.

If any of these issues appear, address them first; adjustment alone won’t cure poor braking caused by worn or faulty components.

How Adjustment Works—and When to Seek Professional Help

Manual adjustment brings the shoes close to the drum, leaving slight, even drag that ensures strong, consistent rear braking and a predictable pedal. Self-adjusters are designed to maintain that clearance automatically through reverse stops or parking-brake use. If you suspect seized adjusters, weak springs, or hydraulic leaks, or you’re unsure about the procedure, professional service is the safest route. Incorrect adjustment can cause brake drag, overheating, premature wear, or reduced braking performance.

DIY: Manually Adjusting Drum Brakes (General Procedure)

The following sequence outlines a typical star-wheel adjustment through the backing-plate access slot. Procedures vary by make and model, so consult your service manual for specifics.

  1. Park on level ground, chock front wheels, and support the rear with jack stands. Release the parking brake fully.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the backing-plate access hole (if equipped) to reach the star-wheel adjuster.
  3. Identify the correct direction to expand the shoes: one side typically requires upward lever motion and the other downward. If unsure, turn a few clicks and spin the wheel by hand to feel for more drag (expanding) or less (contracting).
  4. Spin the wheel while turning the star wheel to expand the shoes until you feel consistent, light drag. The wheel should turn by hand but not freewheel.
  5. If you overshoot and create heavy drag, back the adjuster off a few clicks until the drag becomes slight and even.
  6. Repeat on the other side. Ensure both sides feel similar. Reinstall access plugs.
  7. Apply the brake pedal several times, then recheck drag on each side and fine-tune if needed.
  8. Road-test at low speed, verifying straight, smooth stops and normal pedal height. Recheck after the test if anything feels off.

This approach sets proper shoe-to-drum clearance. If drag remains uneven, the adjuster won’t hold, or the pedal feel is inconsistent, stop and have a technician inspect for hardware or hydraulic issues.

Safety and Maintenance Tips

Good habits can extend the interval between adjustments and improve brake reliability.

  • Use the parking brake regularly if your vehicle’s system uses it to self-adjust—especially after backing up.
  • After shoe replacement, expect a break-in period and recheck adjustment; shoes seat to drums over the first few hundred miles.
  • Service adjusters and backing-plate pads with the correct high-temperature brake lubricant during brake jobs to prevent sticking.
  • Avoid overheating brakes by riding them downhill; use engine braking where appropriate.
  • If you see fluid leaks, severe scoring, or persistent pulling, prioritize repair before adjustment.

Routine attention to these points keeps drum brakes responsive and reduces the likelihood of sudden performance changes.

Summary

You likely need a drum brake adjustment if the brake pedal travels farther than usual, the parking brake takes many clicks to hold, rear braking feel is weak or uneven, or you hear dragging/scraping from the rear. Confirm with simple checks—parking-brake hold, reverse self-adjust attempts, and assessing wheel drag—and inspect components if possible. If self-adjusters are stuck or parts are worn, repair them first; otherwise, a careful manual adjustment to slight, even drag typically restores proper brake feel and performance.

How often do you need to adjust drum brakes?

As a rule of thumb, drum brakes should be checked and adjusted every 10,000 to 12,000 miles.

Do drum brakes automatically adjust?

Yes, most modern drum brakes are self-adjusting, using a mechanism that repositions the brake shoes closer to the drum as their lining wears down, requiring a greater travel distance to engage. However, this automatic adjustment often requires use of the parking brake or backing up to function correctly. If the brake shoes or drums are not worn or if the self-adjusting mechanism fails, the drum brakes may need manual adjustment.
 
You can watch this video to learn how self-adjusting drum brakes work: 1mcrashforensicsYouTube · Aug 26, 2010
How self-adjusting drum brakes work:

  • Wear compensation: As the brake shoe lining wears away, the shoes must travel further to contact the drum. 
  • Automatic adjustment: A self-adjusting mechanism, often a star wheel or a lever, senses this increased travel distance and rotates to bring the shoes closer to the drum. 
  • Activation: This adjustment typically occurs when the parking brake is applied or when the vehicle is driven in reverse, causing the mechanism to engage and turn the adjuster. 

When manual adjustment may be needed:

  • New components: After replacing worn-out brake shoes or drums, a manual adjustment is necessary for proper contact. 
  • Failed adjustment: The self-adjuster can fail due to rust or other issues, preventing proper compensation for wear. 
  • Deep brake pedal: If you notice your brake pedal goes deeper than usual before engaging, it could indicate the self-adjusters are not working correctly and a manual adjustment is required. 
  • No parking brake use: Vehicles with automatic transmissions may rely on parking brake usage to keep the drum brakes properly adjusted. 

You can watch this video to learn how to manually adjust drum brakes: 57sThomas EXOVCDSYouTube · Sep 23, 2019

How to tell if drum brakes need adjusting?

What are the signs that my drum brakes need adjustment? For brakes that are too loose, your stopping distance could be longer, your car may dive forward while braking, or you could have handling issues while braking and turning.

How to properly adjust drum brakes?

To properly adjust drum brakes, jack up the rear of the vehicle, remove the rubber plug from the backing plate, and use a drum brake tool (like a brake spoon or screwdriver) to turn the star wheel downward, which expands the brake shoes. Spin the wheel to hear a light scraping sound and feel slight resistance, but ensure it still turns freely. Back off the adjustment if there’s significant drag, then reinsert the rubber plug. 
Preparation

  1. Park and Secure: Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface and chock the front wheels for safety. 
  2. Jack Up Vehicle: Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely with jack stands. 
  3. Locate the Adjuster: Find the rubber plug on the backing plate, often at the bottom. Some vehicles may have this on the drum itself or a different location. 

This video demonstrates the process of locating the rubber plug and using a screwdriver to access the star wheel: 54sBleepinJeepYouTube · Oct 26, 2013
Adjustment Process

  1. Remove the Plug: Pry off the rubber plug using a flathead screwdriver to expose the star wheel adjuster. 
  2. Engage the Adjuster: Insert a brake spoon or flathead screwdriver into the notches of the star wheel. 
  3. Tighten the Shoes: Leverage the tool to turn the star wheel. Turning it downward typically expands the shoes outwards against the drum. 
  4. Listen and Feel: While turning the star wheel, spin the wheel or drum by hand. You should hear a light scraping sound from the brake shoes contacting the drum. 
  5. Find the Sweet Spot: Continue adjusting until you feel a slight resistance or drag, but the wheel can still spin freely with one hand. If the drum is difficult to spin, you’ve overtightened it. 
  6. Back Off if Needed: If there’s too much drag, you may need to loosen the star wheel by pushing on the tool and rotating it in the opposite direction. 

You can watch this video to see how to back off the adjustment if there’s too much drag: 49s1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics KnowYouTube · Apr 24, 2019
Completion

  1. Reinstall Plug: Once the adjustment is correct, reinstall the rubber plug to seal the drum and protect the internal components from dirt and water. 
  2. Repeat on Other Side: Adjust the drum brake on the other rear wheel, ensuring it’s adjusted equally. 
  3. Test Drive: Take the vehicle for a test drive and apply the brakes firmly from a low speed to help seat the brake shoes into their final position. 

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Serving San Diego since 1984, T P Auto Repair is an ASE-certified NAPA AutoCare Center and Star Smog Check Station. Known for honest service and quality repairs, we help drivers with everything from routine maintenance to advanced diagnostics.

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