How to Lift the Suspension of a Car

To lift a car’s suspension, select an appropriate lift method (spacers, longer springs/coilovers, air suspension, or a full lift kit), upgrade supporting components as needed, and finish with a professional alignment and recalibration; for most owners, having a qualified shop perform or inspect the work is the safest route. Below, we explain the main options, the steps involved, the legal and safety considerations, and the common pitfalls to avoid.

What “lifting a car” actually changes

Lifting increases ground clearance and approach/departure angles, but it also raises the center of gravity and alters suspension geometry. On independent-suspension vehicles, it changes CV joint and ball-joint angles; on solid-axle setups, it affects pinion angle and lateral axle location. Done correctly, a lift can improve rough-road usability; done poorly, it can harm handling, braking, and component life.

Choosing your lift approach

Several methods can raise ride height. The best choice depends on your vehicle’s suspension type (MacPherson strut, double wishbone, multi-link, solid axle), your target lift height, and how you use the car (daily road use, mild trails, or serious off-road).

• Strut/coil spring spacers: Poly or aluminum spacers above the strut top hat or on spring perches. Typical net lift: about 0.75–2 inches (20–50 mm). Pros: affordable, minimal parts. Cons: can stress top mounts and alter droop; alignment range may be limited.
• Longer springs or lift coilovers: Replacement springs with increased free length/rate, or height-adjustable coilovers. Typical lift: 1–3 inches (25–75 mm) for cars/SUVs. Pros: improved damping and travel if matched; tunable. Cons: costlier; requires careful setup and alignment.
• Full suspension lift kits: Vehicle-specific packages including struts/shocks, springs, subframe drops (IFS), control arms, links, and geometry correction. Typical lift: 2–6 inches (50–150 mm). Pros: engineered solution; maintains geometry within safer limits. Cons: highest cost and complexity.
• Air suspension upgrades: Air struts/bags with on-board compressor/management. Variable lift: often ±2–4 inches. Pros: adjustable ride height; useful for load leveling. Cons: most complex; requires plumbing/electrical; higher maintenance.
• Body lift (for body-on-frame trucks/SUVs): Spacers between body and frame. Typical lift: 1–3 inches. Pros: tire clearance without altering suspension geometry. Cons: doesn’t increase axle/diff clearance; may need bumper/steering shaft/rear bumper relocation.

Match the lift method to your goals: modest, budget-friendly spacers for mild clearance, performance coilovers for road-focused tuning, or a comprehensive kit when seeking larger lifts or frequent off-road use.

Check laws, insurance, and warranty before you wrench

Rules vary widely by country and state. Some jurisdictions regulate bumper/headlight height, tire coverage, track width changes, and stability-control functionality. Insurers may require notification of suspension modifications, and vehicle warranties can be affected by non-OEM parts.

• Legal limits: Many regions cap lift height or require engineering certification beyond a threshold (e.g., >50 mm in parts of Australia, or bumper/headlight height limits in several U.S. states).
• Lighting and visibility: Headlight aim and height must remain compliant; fog lights and DRLs may need re-aiming.
• Safety systems: ESC/ABS/ADAS must function properly; camera/radar recalibration may be required after any ride-height change.
• Insurance disclosure: Report modifications to avoid claim issues.
• Inspection/MOT/roadworthy: Some regions require inspection or certification after suspension changes.

Confirm local regulations first; the cost and effort to certify or recalibrate can be part of your project plan.

Parts you may need

The exact bill of materials depends on the method and lift height. Beyond springs or spacers, geometry and clearance components often need upgrading.

• Primary lift components: spacers, longer springs, lift coilovers, or full lift kit.
• Dampers: shocks/struts matched to the new ride height and spring rate.
• Geometry correction: adjustable control arms, camber bolts, caster/camber plates, subframe drop brackets, differential drop (IFS) to ease CV angles, panhard/track bar correction (solid axle).
• Ancillaries: extended brake lines or relocation brackets, longer sway-bar links, bump stop extensions, droop limiters, spring isolators, top hats/mounts, strut bearings.
• Driveline/steering: steering shaft spacer (body lift), driveshaft spacer or adjustable links, pinion angle shims, tie-rod/drag link adjustments.
• Tire/wheel considerations: alignment-friendly wheel specs; potential need for hub-centric rings, wheel studs, or spacers (where legal).
• Calibration needs: headlight adjustment hardware, alignment kits, and access to ADAS recalibration tools (shop service).

Buying a vehicle-specific kit reduces guesswork because supporting parts are chosen to maintain safe geometry within the intended lift range.

Tools and equipment

Even “bolt-on” lifts require proper support, torque control, and sometimes specialty tools.

• Safety and support: quality jack stands, hydraulic jack, wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves.
• Hand tools: socket/ratchet sets, torque wrench, breaker bar, combination wrenches, Allen/hex and Torx bits.
• Suspension-specific tools: spring compressor (for strut disassembly), pry bars, ball joint separator, tie-rod puller.
• Cutting/fastener tools: penetrating oil, impact driver, anti-seize, thread locker, new hardware (single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts).
• Measuring and setup: angle finder (for pinion/CV angles), tape measure, alignment plates or appointment at a professional alignment shop.

Have everything on hand before you start; stopping mid-project to source a missing specialty tool is a common cause of delays and mistakes.

Step-by-step overview (home install)

The exact procedure varies by vehicle. The outline below describes typical steps for a strut-based independent suspension. Always follow a vehicle-specific service manual and torque specifications.

1. Prepare and inspect: Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, chock wheels, and disconnect the battery if working near sensors. Measure stock ride height at all four corners for reference.
2. Lift and secure: Loosen lug nuts, raise the vehicle, and support it on jack stands at recommended points. Remove wheels.
3. Disassemble suspension: Unbolt sway-bar links, brake line brackets, ABS wire clips, and tie-rod/ball joint connections as needed to free the strut or spring assembly. Support control arms to avoid stressing joints.
4. Install lift components: Fit spacers on top of struts or replace springs/struts per kit instructions. For kits requiring differential or subframe drops, follow the sequence precisely and torque to spec.
5. Address ancillaries: Install extended brake lines or relocation brackets, longer sway-bar links, bump stop extensions, and any geometry-correction parts (e.g., camber bolts, adjustable arms).
6. Reassemble and torque: Reinstall components in reverse order. Use a torque wrench with factory values. Do not fully tighten rubber-bushed arms until the vehicle is at ride height to avoid bushing preload.
7. Wheels and ride-height set: Refit wheels, snug lugs, lower the vehicle to the ground, bounce the suspension to settle, then torque lugs to spec in a star pattern.
8. Initial checks: Verify brake line and ABS wire slack at full lock and through suspension travel. Confirm no interference with springs, tires, or fenders.
9. Alignment and calibration: Drive carefully to a shop for a full 4-wheel alignment, steering angle sensor reset, headlight aim, and ADAS calibration if applicable.
10. Re-torque and recheck: After 50–100 miles, re-torque suspension bolts and wheel lugs; recheck for rub or leaks.

These steps keep the process controlled and help ensure safe operation, but variations by platform are significant—use vehicle-specific instructions whenever possible.

Aftercare: alignment and recalibration

Post-lift adjustments are essential for tire wear, handling, and safety systems. Plan time and budget for them.

• Wheel alignment: set camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle within spec or to your use case (e.g., slight additional caster for stability).
• Steering angle sensor reset: needed for ESC to function correctly.
• ADAS calibration: many vehicles require static/dynamic calibration for forward radar, camera, and blind-spot sensors after ride-height changes.
• Headlight aim: raise or lower beams to legal cutoff; auto-leveling sensors may need re-indexing.
• Speedometer and TPMS: larger tires change indicated speed and may require reprogramming; ensure TPMS sensors are compatible.
• Driveline angles: verify CV and U-joint operating angles; add diff drop or shims if vibration appears.

Skipping these steps is a leading cause of premature tire wear, warning lights, and stability-control issues after a lift.

Common mistakes to avoid

Most problems after a lift trace back to a handful of preventable errors.

• Over-lifting with minimal parts: large spacers without geometry correction can cause binding, harsh top-out, and unsafe handling.
• Ignoring brake/ABS line slack: lines must not be taut at full droop or steering lock.
• Tightening bushings at full droop: preload shortens bushing life and raises NVH; torque control arms at ride height.
• Stacking spacers: combining multiple spacers is unsafe; use a properly engineered kit.
• Skipping alignment and calibration: leads to pull, uneven wear, and disabled safety systems.
• Not re-torquing hardware: fasteners can settle; recheck torques after initial miles.
• Ignoring legal and insurance requirements: can result in failed inspections or denied claims.

Plan the job, use appropriate parts, and budget for professional services where needed to avoid these pitfalls.

What it may cost and how long it takes

Prices vary by vehicle and region. Labor times reflect typical shop estimates; DIY can take longer for first-time installers.

• Spacer kits: parts $100–$500; labor 2–5 hours; alignment $100–$250; possible ADAS calibration $150–$500.
• Lift springs/coilovers: parts $600–$2,500; labor 4–8 hours; alignment/calibration as above.
• Full lift kits (with geometry correction): parts $1,500–$5,000+; labor 8–16 hours; additional driveline or brake components may add cost.
• Air suspension: parts $2,000–$6,000+; labor 10–20 hours; ongoing maintenance considerations.
• Body lift (body-on-frame): parts $200–$800; labor 6–12 hours; bumper and steering shaft adjustments may be required.

Factor wheels/tires, potential gear ratio changes (for very large tires), and insurance/inspection fees into your total budget.

When to seek professional help

Some scenarios strongly favor a professional shop with alignment and calibration capability.

• Vehicles with advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS) requiring calibration after height changes.
• Lifts above ~2 inches, which often need geometry correction and driveline work.
• Corroded hardware or press-fit bushings/ball joints requiring specialized tools.
• Air suspension installs, subframe/differential drops, or pinion angle adjustments.
• Any situation where legal certification or engineering sign-off is required.

A competent, vehicle-specific shop reduces risk and ensures compliance with safety standards and local laws.

Key tips by suspension type

Different architectures respond differently to lifts; tailoring parts to your layout improves outcomes.

• MacPherson strut (common on cars/crossovers): prioritize correct top-mount geometry; consider camber plates/bolts to regain alignment range.
• Double wishbone/multi-link: check ball-joint angles and arm travel; adjustable arms may be needed for camber and caster.
• Independent front suspension (IFS) trucks/SUVs: diff drop kits can ease CV angles; avoid excessive droop that causes top-out.
• Solid axle (front/rear): correct pinion angle and lateral axle shift with adjustable control arms and a panhard/track-bar relocation bracket.

Knowing your suspension layout helps you choose parts that preserve drivability and component life.

Bottom line

Raising a car’s suspension is more than adding height—it’s a system change that affects geometry, safety, and legality. Choose an engineered method, upgrade supporting components, and always finish with alignment and necessary recalibrations. When in doubt, use a reputable shop.

Summary

Lifting a car safely involves selecting the right method (spacers, springs/coilovers, full kits, or air), planning for geometry correction, installing with proper tools and torque practices, and completing post-install alignment and calibrations. Confirm legal and insurance requirements beforehand, avoid common errors like stacking spacers or skipping brake line checks, and consider professional help for larger or ADAS-equipped vehicles. Done correctly, a lift can add capability without compromising safety or compliance.

How much does it cost to raise a car suspension?

Raising a car’s suspension can cost from a few hundred dollars for a basic leveling kit to over $5,000 for a full suspension lift kit, plus additional costs for professional installation and potential upgrades like larger tires. Costs vary significantly based on the vehicle, the type and quality of the lift kit, the amount of lift desired, and whether you install it yourself or pay for professional labor. 
Factors Influencing Cost

• Type of Lift Kit:
  • Leveling Kits: These are the least expensive, ranging from about $100 to $500, and are best for small aesthetic adjustments or to counteract heavy accessories. 
  • Suspension Lift Kits: For true performance and off-road capability, these kits cost $1,000 to $5,000 or more, as they involve replacing multiple suspension components. 
• Lift Height: Higher lifts require more complex and expensive components, such as extended control arms, and can cost more. 
• Kit Quality and Brand: Higher-quality kits with better components from trusted brands are more expensive but offer better performance and durability. 
• Vehicle Type: Some vehicles, particularly those with independent front suspension (like many sedans), are more complicated and costly to lift than others. 
• Installation: Professional installation is recommended, costing anywhere from $500 to $2,000 or more, depending on the vehicle and kit. 
• Additional Components: Lifting often requires other parts, such as larger tires and wheels (which can add $1,000 or more), longer brake hoses, and performance shocks. 
• Wheel Alignment: A professional wheel alignment is essential after lifting and adds to the overall cost. 

How to lift a car without a lift kit?

To lift a car without a dedicated lift kit, you can use drive-up ramps for basic access, a floor jack and jack stands to lift the entire vehicle, or DIY wooden blocks to gain additional height for better working clearance. For suspension work, “add-a-leaf” kits for leaf-sprung vehicles or torsion bar keys for torsion bar suspensions can offer moderate, permanent lift. 
For Quick Access (Short-Term or Routine Work):

• Drive-Up Ramps: Opens in new tabDrive the car onto specialized ramps, which provide several inches of height. This is great for oil changes or tasks that don’t require the car to be completely off the ground. 
• Curb Parking: Opens in new tabPark the car’s wheels on a raised curb to create some working space underneath. 

For Working Under the Vehicle (Requires Safety Measures):

1. Find a Level Surface: Always work on a hard, level surface like concrete. 
2. Use a Floor Jack and Jack Stands: 
   • Consult the Owner’s Manual: Locate the designated jacking points for your vehicle. 
   • Block the Wheels: Chock the wheels that will remain on the ground to prevent the car from rolling. 
   • Lift the Car: Using a floor jack, lift the car by the jacking point, ensuring the jack is perpendicular to the body. 
   • Place Jack Stands: Place jack stands at the designated structural points to support the vehicle’s weight. 
   • Lower onto Jack Stands: Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands, ensuring they are secure and stable. 
3. Build DIY Blocks: For more height than a typical jack and stand, create stepped wooden blocks from lumber to drive onto. You can then use a jack and stands to lift the car even higher. 

For Vehicle-Specific Permanent Lift (More Involved):

• Add-A-Leafs: For vehicles with leaf springs, an “add-a-leaf” is a thin, arched leaf that is inserted into the spring pack to provide lift and support. 
• Torsion Bar Keys: For vehicles with torsion bar front suspension, you can adjust the torsion bar keys to increase ground clearance. 
• Custom Fabrication (Use with Extreme Caution): Some DIYers weld custom metal components between the spring coils, but this method is considered risky due to potential safety and handling issues, notes MotorTrend and a YouTube video. 

Safety Reminders:

• Never work under a car that is only supported by a jack; always use jack stands. 
• Never use concrete blocks or bricks: to support a car. They can crumble and are not a safe alternative to proper equipment. 
• Consider your vehicle’s weight and your skill level: before attempting any lift. 
• Use a spare tire as a safety prop: under the car, but do not place the vehicle’s weight on it. 

How do I raise my car’s suspension?

To suspension lift a car, you must purchase and install a suspension lift kit designed for your specific vehicle, using components like strut spacers, longer shocks, or new leaf springs and blocks to raise the chassis. The process involves safely lifting the car, removing old components, installing the new parts to provide increased ground clearance, and then reassembling and testing the suspension. For more complex lifts beyond a few inches, professional installation is recommended to ensure proper geometry correction and vehicle safety.
 
This video demonstrates the process of installing a suspension lift kit: 1mJK Gear and GadgetsYouTube · Feb 16, 2020
1. Research and Purchase the Right Lift Kit 

• Determine your goal: Decide how much lift you need and the primary purpose (e.g., for larger tires, improved off-roading). 
• Find a kit for your vehicle: Not all kits are universal; you need to find a kit specifically designed for your make, model, and year to ensure proper fit and function. 
• Consider kit types:
  • Spacer Lifts: Install blocks or spacers above the existing springs or struts to increase height. 
  • Longer Components: Utilize longer shocks, control arms, or leaf springs to provide additional height. 
  • Drop Brackets: For taller lifts, brackets may be needed to drop components like the differential to maintain proper geometry. 

2. Prepare for Installation

• Gather tools and parts: You’ll need a lift kit, jacks, jack stands, wrenches, torque wrench, and spray lubricant. 
• Find a safe working space: Work on a level surface with plenty of room. 
• Safety first: Engage the parking brake, place the vehicle in park or gear, and use wheel chocks. 

3. Install the Lift Kit 

• Lift the vehicle: Safely lift the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands placed at the designated points. 
• Remove the wheels: Loosen and remove the lug nuts to take off the wheels. 
• Access suspension components: Disconnect sway bar links, brake lines, and other components blocking the suspension. 
• Install components: Install your lift kit components, such as spacers or new shocks, ensuring proper orientation and fit. 
• Torque bolts: Tighten all fasteners to the manufacturer’s specified torque settings. 
• Reinstall wheels: Refit the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. 

This video shows how to safely jack up a car: 1mAutoZoneYouTube · Jan 20, 2023
4. Post-Installation Checks and Adjustments

• Check all bolts: After the initial installation, re-check and tighten all bolts and fasteners. 
• Get a wheel alignment: A suspension lift can change your vehicle’s geometry, so a professional wheel alignment is essential to ensure proper handling and tire wear. 
• Drive cautiously: Your vehicle’s handling will be different, so drive carefully on your first few drives. 
• Re-check torque: It is recommended to re-check the torque on all bolts after driving the vehicle for about 500 kilometers. 

Can you do a suspension lift yourself?

While DIY installation is possible, professional services offer: Expertise: Certified technicians ensure a safe and accurate installation. Time-Saving: Professionals can complete the job efficiently. Warranty Protection: Many lift kits require professional installation to maintain the warranty.