How to Put Springs Back on Drum Brakes

To put the springs back on drum brakes, secure the brake shoes with the hold-down springs, reconnect the adjuster and any parking-brake components, then install the return springs—typically the lower spring first and the two upper return springs onto the anchor pin—using proper brake spring tools; verify orientation against the opposite wheel or a service diagram, adjust the star wheel to slight drag, and test. Drum brake hardware is highly spring-loaded and model-specific, so careful reference, correct tools, and safety precautions are essential.

What Those Springs Actually Do

Drum brake systems rely on several different springs to center the shoes, retract them from the drum, and operate the self-adjuster. Understanding which spring does what—and where it goes—helps you reinstall parts confidently and safely.

Below is an overview of common spring types you’ll find on most rear drum brake assemblies.

• Upper return springs: Two strong springs that hook the tops of the shoes to the anchor pin, retracting shoes after braking.
• Lower return spring (if used): Spans the bottoms of the shoes near the adjuster, helping return the shoes and stabilizing the assembly.
• Hold-down springs: Small coil springs with retainers and pins that hold each shoe against the backing plate.
• Adjuster spring or cable: Works with the adjuster lever to advance the star wheel as linings wear.
• Parking brake spring(s): On the trailing shoe/parking brake lever to ensure proper return of the mechanism.

Together, these springs maintain shoe position, ensure even braking, and allow the self-adjusting mechanism to compensate for lining wear.

Tools, Parts, and Prep

Having the right tools and fresh hardware makes spring installation safer and far easier. Many technicians replace all springs as a kit whenever drum shoes are serviced because old springs lose tension with heat cycles.

• Brake spring pliers and a hold-down spring tool (cup-and-rod type)
• Needle-nose pliers and a flat screwdriver or small pry bar
• High-temperature brake grease for backing plate pads and adjuster threads
• Brake cleaner and rags (avoid blowing dust; wear a respirator and eye protection)
• New hardware kit (return springs, hold-downs, adjuster spring/cable)
• Service manual or a clear photo of the intact opposite-side brake as a reference
• Torque wrench, jack stands, wheel chocks

With the vehicle secured, work on one side at a time, leaving the other side assembled as your visual guide for routing and spring orientation.

The Reassembly Order: A Practical Sequence

Manufacturers vary in exact sequences, but the steps below reflect a common and serviceable order for many passenger vehicles. Always confirm with a model-specific diagram.

1. Prepare the backing plate: Clean it and lightly grease the six shoe contact pads. Verify the wheel cylinder is dry and not leaking.
2. Build the trailing shoe: If applicable, attach the parking brake lever and its spring to the trailing (usually rear) shoe.
3. Position both shoes on the backing plate: Align them around the wheel cylinder at the top and on the anchor points; loosely fit them in place.
4. Install hold-down springs and pins: Compress and rotate the retainers 90 degrees to lock each shoe against the backing plate.
5. Install the adjuster assembly at the bottom: Ensure the star wheel and threaded rod are clean, lubricated, and oriented for the correct side. Insert the adjuster between shoes.
6. Fit the lower return spring (if used): Hook it into the correct holes near the adjuster. Spring pliers help seat it without slipping.
7. Install the adjuster lever and spring/cable: Route the cable over the anchor (if your design uses one) and secure the lever so it engages the star wheel teeth correctly.
8. Install the upper return springs: Hook each spring into its shoe hole, then stretch over and seat on the anchor pin. Typically the lighter spring goes to the primary (front) shoe and the heavier to the secondary (rear) shoe, but colors and strengths vary—match what came off the other side.
9. Verify shoe seating: Ensure shoes sit squarely against the backing plate pads, springs are fully seated, and the adjuster lever engages the star wheel.
10. Pre-adjust the star wheel: Expand the shoes until the drum slides on with light resistance, then back off slightly so the drum rotates with a faint, even drag.

At this stage, the assembly should mirror the intact side: springs routed identically, adjuster accessible through the slot, and the star wheel turning in the expected direction for expansion.

Avoiding Left/Right Mix-ups and Orientation Errors

Side-specific parts and spring routing cause most headaches. These quick checks help confirm you’ve got the hardware correct.

• Primary vs. secondary shoes: The primary shoe typically has the shorter lining and faces the front of the vehicle; the secondary shoe has a longer lining and faces the rear.
• Return springs: Many kits color-code them; match each to the same location you observed on the reference side.
• Adjuster orientation: The star wheel and threaded rod are side-specific so that self-adjusting works correctly. Compare to the other side or a manual.
• Cable/lever path: The adjuster cable should route over any guide or anchor without rubbing the hub. The lever must contact the star wheel teeth firmly.
• Parking brake strut: Ensure the strut and its spring are installed between the shoes on the correct side of the wheel cylinder as originally configured.

If any component doesn’t mirror the assembled side, pause and recheck diagrams before proceeding; forced fits often signal a routing error.

Adjust, Refit, and Test

Proper adjustment and cautious testing ensure the springs and shoes perform as intended under load.

1. Install the drum and check drag: Aim for a light, even rub when spinning the drum by hand.
2. Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification in a star pattern.
3. Pump the brake pedal until firm: This centers the shoes.
4. Fine-tune through the backing plate slot (if provided): Adjust to slight drag, then back off a click or two.
5. Road test at low speed: Perform several gentle stops in forward and reverse to allow self-adjusters to settle. Listen for scraping or grinding.

After the test, recheck wheel temperatures and drag. One wheel significantly hotter than the other suggests over-tightening or a sticky shoe or adjuster.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most reassembly issues trace back to a few preventable errors. These pitfalls are worth a last look before buttoning up.

• Reusing old springs: Fatigued springs can’t retract shoes reliably; replace as a set.
• Wrong-side adjuster: A swapped adjuster will make self-adjusting inoperative or backward.
• Missing shoe lubrication points: A dry backing plate causes squeal and uneven wear.
• Grease on linings: Contamination ruins friction; replace shoes if soaked.
• Forgetting the hold-downs until last: Without them, installing other springs is harder and less safe.
• Incorrect cable routing: Misrouted adjuster cables won’t take up slack and can rub through.

Double-checking these items against your reference side prevents most post-repair noise, pull, or premature wear complaints.

Safety First: When to Pause and Call a Pro

Drum brakes store significant spring energy and work inches from rotating hubs. If you encounter any of the following, it’s safer to get professional help.

• Leaking wheel cylinder or torn dust boots
• Deeply grooved, out-of-round, or thickness-variation drums
• Frozen adjusters that won’t free up with cleaning and lube
• Cracked shoes or broken spring seats on the backing plate
• Uncertain routing even after checking the intact side and a service manual

Brakes are critical safety systems; uncertain assemblies or hydraulic faults should be corrected by a qualified technician.

Maintenance Tips After Reassembly

Good follow-up habits extend brake life and keep adjustments true.

• Recheck adjustment and wheel temperatures after the first 25–50 miles.
• Keep adjuster threads clean and lightly lubed at each shoe replacement.
• Use the parking brake regularly on vehicles whose drums self-adjust in reverse or via the parking mechanism.
• Inspect springs and hardware at each brake service; replace as a kit when shoes are replaced.

These simple steps help maintain consistent pedal feel and reduce uneven wear or noise.

Summary

Putting springs back on drum brakes is a precise but manageable task with the right tools and references. Secure the shoes with hold-downs, install the adjuster and any parking-brake parts, then fit the lower and upper return springs in the correct order and orientation. Confirm everything mirrors the opposite side, adjust to slight drag, and test carefully. When in doubt—especially about spring routing or hydraulic condition—consult a service manual or a professional to ensure safe, reliable braking.

Do drum brake springs need to be replaced?

The blue arrow items the springs and hardware need replacement, the self-adjustors usually last a long time however, they do need, they do need servicing and that is a key component of any brake job that we do.

Do drum brakes have return springs?

Works I’m going to go pump on the brakes. And this is the adjusting. Mechanism for the drum.

How to use brake drum spring pliers?

And slide it on. And you do the other side. Okay so here’s how we do the bottom spring. You got this hook. And this is just a regular end nothing fancy we slip this hook.

How to install spring on drum brakes?

And hook that spring. Up. Like this and then just kind of work it up on there and slide it on i’m not doing very good am I here let’s try it. Again. I’ll do this one. Maybe. There you go.