How to Safely Raise a Car From the Ground

To raise a car safely: park on level, hard ground; engage the parking brake and chock the wheels; place a rated hydraulic floor jack at a manufacturer-approved lift point; lift slowly; then support the vehicle with jack stands or drive onto ramps. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. This guide explains the tools, lift-point locations, step-by-step procedures for driveway and roadside scenarios, and critical safety practices for modern vehicles, including EVs and SUVs.

What You Need and Why It Matters

Choosing the right equipment and using it correctly is the difference between a quick, safe lift and a dangerous situation. The goal is to lift at reinforced points and then support the vehicle on stable stands or ramps that exceed the load you’re placing on them.

The list below outlines common tools and what each is used for when raising a car from the ground.

• Hydraulic floor jack (preferably low-profile): Fast, stable lifting for one corner or one end.
• Factory scissor jack: Emergency tire changes; slower and less stable than a floor jack.
• Bottle jack: Compact, strong; good for trucks/SUVs if height clearance allows.
• Jack stands (pair or set): The only safe way to support a lifted vehicle while you work.
• Wheel chocks (rubber or metal): Prevent rolling; use on the opposite end from the lift.
• Rubber jack pad or pinch-weld adapter: Protects body seams and battery trays on modern cars and EVs.
• Lug wrench/breaker bar and torque wrench: Loosen/tighten wheel nuts properly and re-torque to spec.
• Ramps (for oil changes/inspections): Drive-up support for front or rear; use with chocks.
• Flat wood or jack base plate: Spreads load on asphalt or soft ground in emergencies.
• Gloves, flashlight, and wheel blocks: Comfort and visibility; extra security on uneven surfaces.

Match tool capacity to the job: pick a jack rated at or above the load you’re lifting (usually one corner or one end), and stands with equal or greater capacity. Quality matters—stable, wide bases and secure locking mechanisms reduce risk.

Identify Safe Lift Points

Lift only where the manufacturer allows. Most cars have reinforced pinch welds near each wheel and, often, central front or rear points on the subframe or crossmember. Trucks and body-on-frame SUVs may specify frame rails. EVs frequently require dedicated jack pads to avoid battery damage, and some air-suspension vehicles need a “Jack Mode” to prevent auto-leveling.

The following list describes typical lift points by vehicle type, but always confirm in the owner’s manual or factory service literature.

• Sedans/hatchbacks: Pinch weld notches behind front wheels and ahead of rear wheels; some have central front subframe and rear crossmember points.
• Trucks/SUVs: Frame rails or specified crossmembers; some allow jacking on the rear differential housing, but only if the manual explicitly approves.
• EVs/hybrids: Designated lift pads; use model-specific pucks (e.g., Tesla jack pads) to protect the battery pack and underbody.
• Air suspension/active leveling: Activate Jack/Service Mode first; otherwise the vehicle may auto-level while lifted.

Never jack under the oil pan, transmission pan, battery tray, rocker panels, or thin sheet metal. Tow hooks and control arms are generally not approved lift points unless the manufacturer says otherwise.

Step-by-Step: Raise One Corner or One End With a Floor Jack

This procedure covers the safest way to lift a vehicle in a garage or driveway for tire, brake, or inspection work using a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.

1. Prep the area: Park on level, solid ground. Put the transmission in Park (automatic) or first gear (manual). Engage the parking brake and switch the ignition off. For EVs, ensure the vehicle is powered down and not charging.
2. Chock the wheels: Chock both sides of the tires on the opposite end from where you’ll lift to prevent rolling.
3. Locate lift points: Consult the owner’s manual. Fit a rubber jack pad or pinch-weld adapter to protect the lift point.
4. Pre-loosen lug nuts (if removing a wheel): Crack each lug nut loose 1/4 turn while the tire is still on the ground.
5. Position the jack: Slide the floor jack under the approved lift point. Center the saddle with the pad aligned.
6. Lift smoothly: Pump the jack handle to raise the vehicle until the tire clears the ground or you reach your target height.
7. Place jack stands: Position stands under approved support points near the lift point. Set them at equal heights and lock them.
8. Lower onto stands: Slowly open the jack valve to transfer weight onto the stands. Keep your hands and feet clear.
9. Test stability: Gently rock the vehicle to confirm it’s solid on the stands. If there’s movement, re-lift and reposition.
10. Remove the wheel/perform work: If removing a wheel, take off the loosened lug nuts now and proceed with service.
11. Lower the vehicle: Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lugs. Jack the car slightly to unload the stands, remove them, then lower the car fully.
12. Torque and recheck: Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s torque spec. Recheck torque after 50–100 miles (80–160 km).

Deliberate, controlled movements are key. Keep your body out from under the vehicle until it’s fully supported on stands and verified stable.

Using Ramps for Oil Changes and Inspections

Ramps offer quick, stable elevation for front or rear access without relying on a jack or stands. They’re ideal for oil changes and visual inspections, provided the ground is level and the tires aren’t wet or muddy.

1. Align the ramps: Place them straight ahead of the drive wheels (front for FWD oil changes; rear if needed).
2. Chock the opposite end: Chock the tires on the end remaining on the ground.
3. Drive up slowly: Crawl forward until you feel the tires seat in the ramp pockets. Stop gently.
4. Parking brake and gear: Engage the parking brake and place the transmission in Park or in gear.
5. Add a backup: If desired, place a stand or wheel crib as a secondary safety (not bearing weight).
6. Descend carefully: When finished, start the car, hold the brake, release the parking brake, and roll back slowly off the ramps.

Ramps minimize setup time and reduce lift-point mistakes, but always pair them with chocks and avoid use on slick or uneven surfaces.

Roadside Tire Change With the Factory Scissor Jack

In emergencies, the vehicle’s scissor jack can get you back on the road. It’s designed for tire changes on firm, level ground—not for under-car work.

1. Find a safe spot: Pull well off traffic, onto level pavement. Turn on hazard lights.
2. Secure the vehicle: Apply the parking brake. Place chocks (or rocks) diagonally opposite the flat.
3. Loosen lugs slightly: Crack lug nuts 1/4 turn before lifting.
4. Position the scissor jack: Align it with the manual’s indicated notch at the pinch weld or specified point.
5. Lift steadily: Raise the car until the flat tire clears the ground.
6. Swap the wheel: Remove lugs, mount the spare, hand-tighten lugs in a star pattern.
7. Lower and torque: Lower fully, then tighten lugs to spec with a torque wrench if available.

After installing a spare, drive conservatively and recheck lug torque soon after. Repair or replace the original tire promptly.

Special Cases and Modern Car Notes

EVs and Hybrids

Use designated lift pads and, where applicable, model-specific jack pucks (e.g., Tesla). Never jack under the battery tray or floor. Do not lift while charging. Some EVs require Service or Transport mode; check the manual.

Air Suspension/Active Leveling

Activate Jack/Service Mode before lifting to prevent the system from adjusting height while off the ground. The switch is typically in the infotainment or vehicle settings menu.

Trucks and SUVs

Heavier vehicles may call for a higher-capacity bottle or floor jack and taller stands. Many allow lifting at the frame rails; some permit jacking under the rear differential, but only if explicitly approved.

Off-Road Recovery

Hi-lift/farm jacks can raise vehicles in rough terrain but require training and wide bases to avoid tipping. Use as a last resort and never work beneath a vehicle supported solely by a hi-lift.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The following pitfalls are responsible for most lifting incidents and damage; avoiding them reduces risk dramatically.

• Working under a car supported only by a jack.
• Lifting on soft ground or sloped surfaces without a base plate.
• Using cinder blocks or unstable wood stacks as supports.
• Jacking at non-approved points (oil pan, battery tray, control arms, rocker panels).
• Under-rated or damaged equipment (leaking jacks, bent stands).
• Skipping wheel chocks or forgetting the parking brake.
• Not pre-loosening/tightening wheel lugs correctly or ignoring torque specs.
• Misplacing jack stands or mixing different height settings side-to-side.
• Failing to engage “Jack Mode” on air-suspension vehicles.
• Rushing, poor lighting, or working in traffic without safety visibility.

Slow, methodical setup and a final stability check prevent most mishaps and keep both you and the vehicle safe.

Quick Reference: Capacities and Heights

Capacity and clearance determine whether your equipment is suitable for your vehicle and intended lift points.

• Floor jacks: 2-ton is adequate for small cars; 3-ton offers headroom for most sedans and SUVs.
• Low-profile jacks: Necessary for sports cars or vehicles with low ground clearance.
• Jack stands: Capacity is often rated per pair; verify the labeling and never exceed limits.
• Lift height: Ensure the jack’s maximum height reaches your intended lift point with room for stands.
• Bottle jacks: High capacity but limited travel and height control; pair with appropriate stands.

When in doubt, choose higher capacity and better stability. The cost difference is small compared with the safety margin gained.

Final Checks and Aftercare

Always torque wheel nuts to the manufacturer’s specification and recheck after 50–100 miles. Inspect underbody areas you contacted for any marks or damage. Wipe and store your jack and stands dry to prevent corrosion, and replace any component that shows wear, leaks, or bent parts.

Summary

Raising a car safely means working on level ground, lifting only at approved points with a rated jack, and then supporting the vehicle with jack stands or ramps. Use wheel chocks, protect pinch welds and EV battery trays with adapters, and activate Jack/Service Mode on vehicles with air suspension. Follow a deliberate step-by-step process, verify stability before going underneath, and finish by torquing lugs to spec. With the right tools and habits, lifting a car becomes safe, repeatable, and efficient.

Can you make a car higher off the ground?

Yes, you can raise the height of a car by installing coil spring spacers, using a suspension lift kit, upgrading to taller tires, or replacing height-adjustable suspension components like coilovers or airbags. Methods range from minor increases in ground clearance with spacers or taller tires to significant height changes using suspension or body lift kits, but each has different effects on stability, handling, and safety, so professional advice is often recommended. 
Methods to Raise a Car

• Coil Spring Spacers: Opens in new tabThese rubber or polyurethane pieces are installed between the coils of a spring suspension system to add a small amount of lift. 
• Taller Tires: Opens in new tabReplacing your current tires with larger-diameter ones is a simple, cost-effective way to gain some ground clearance and can improve off-road grip. 
• Suspension Lift Kits: Opens in new tabThese kits raise the entire suspension system, providing a more substantial lift than spacers or taller tires alone, and often allow for larger wheels and tires to be fitted. 
• Coilovers: Opens in new tabIf your car has coilovers, you can often adjust the ride height by turning the spring-adjusting collar using a special spanner wrench, which compresses the spring to raise the vehicle. 
• Air Springs or Airbags: Opens in new tabHeight-adjustable suspension systems that use air or oil compression can vary the vehicle’s ride height with the press of a button or switch. 
• Body Lift Kits: Opens in new tabThese kits use blocks to raise the vehicle’s body away from the frame, increasing ground clearance without changing the suspension. 

Considerations

• Safety: Methods like spacers can affect vehicle stability and increase the risk of accidents, especially at higher speeds. 
• Handling: Lifting a vehicle can alter its center of gravity and change its dynamics, which may affect handling and stability. 
• Professional Installation: For significant lifts or when altering suspension components, professional installation is crucial to ensure the vehicle is safe and handling is not compromised. 
• Laws and Regulations: Always check your local laws and regulations, as some areas have restrictions on vehicle lift modifications. 

How to raise a car off the ground?

To safely raise a car, find a level surface, set the parking brake, chock the opposite wheels, then use a jack and a jack stand to lift the vehicle at the correct jacking point, found in the owner’s manual. Never place your body under the car while it is supported by a jack alone; always use a properly rated jack stand to support the vehicle. For a safer alternative for some tasks, consider using car ramps instead of a jack and jack stands.
 
This video demonstrates how to safely lift a car on jack stands: 48sHumbleMechanicYouTube · Jul 6, 2019
Preparation

1. Park on a level surface: Ensure the car is on a flat, hard, and stable surface, not on grass or gravel. 
2. Engage the parking brake: Set the parking brake firmly to prevent movement. 
3. Chock the wheels: Place wheel chocks under the wheels on the opposite side of the car you intend to lift to prevent rolling. 
4. Locate the jack points: Consult your car’s owner’s manual to identify the correct, sturdy jacking points on the vehicle’s chassis or frame. 
5. Inspect your equipment: Check that the jack and jack stands are in good condition and have a weight rating appropriate for your vehicle. 

Lifting the Car

1. Position the jack: Place the jack under the identified jacking point. 
2. Lift slowly: Raise the jack until it contacts the vehicle and then continue to raise it, working the jack slowly and carefully. 
3. Raise to height: Lift the car enough to create clearance for the jack stand. 
4. Place the jack stand: Slide a jack stand under the vehicle, ensuring it is positioned on a secure structural point, such as the subframe or a designated jack stand point. 
5. Lower onto the stand: Slowly and carefully lower the car, ensuring the jack stand is centered and the weight is transferred onto it. 
6. Remove the jack: Once the vehicle is safely on the jack stand, you can remove the jack. 

Alternative: Car Ramps 

• Drive onto ramps: For tasks like an oil change, you can drive the front or rear of your car up a set of car ramps.
• Safety: This method is often considered safer and easier than using a jack and jack stands.

This video explains how to use car ramps: 1mAutoZoneYouTube · Jan 20, 2023
Important Safety Reminders

• Never work under a car supported only by a jack; always use a jack stand for support. 
• Avoid lifting on components: like the exhaust, oil pan, or plastic parts, as these are not designed to bear weight. 
• Use the correct jacking points: to avoid damaging the vehicle’s structure. 

How much does it cost to raise a car?

The cost to raise a car varies significantly, from around $400 for a small suspension lift kit to $5,000 or more for professional garage lift installation. For modifying your vehicle, costs typically include parts for the lift kit and labor for installation and a necessary wheel alignment, while purchasing a lift for a home garage involves buying the lift itself and paying for professional installation, which can include electrical work and concrete preparation. 
Lifting Your Vehicle for Clearance

• Suspension Lift Kits are installed on your vehicle to give it more ground clearance and often for off-road use. 
• Cost: Kits can range from $400 to over $5,000, depending on the size and complexity of the lift. 
• Installation: Expect to pay for labor, which can add $500 or more, plus the cost of a necessary wheel alignment afterward. 
• Vehicle Type: Some vehicles, like Jeeps, are more expensive to lift due to their design, while lifting a sedan can be more complicated and expensive. 

Purchasing a Home Garage Car Lift

• Two-Post Lifts: A common choice for home garages, these can cost around $2,000 to $6,000, with higher prices for professional models. 
• Four-Post Lifts: These are more expensive, starting around $2,500 and going up to $10,000 or more for heavy-duty versions. 
• Installation Costs: Professional installation is essential for safety and can cost $500 to $1,000 or more, depending on the complexity and any required electrical work or concrete modifications. 
• Factors: The final price depends on the lift’s capacity, technology, features, and the brand. 

How do you raise a car cheaply?

The cheapest way to lift a car to work under it is to use wooden blocks for the car to drive up, followed by a floor jack and jack stands for safe support, costing around $60-$80 for the essential safety equipment. For a more permanent vehicle height increase, a budget-friendly option is a body lift kit (around $100-$600) for trucks or using aftermarket torsion keys (around $150) on some truck models to get a modest lift of 1-1.5 inches.
 
For Working Under the Car (Temporary Lift)
This is the most cost-effective and safe method if you need temporary access to work on your car. 

1. Drive onto ramps or blocks: Opens in new tabDrive the front wheels onto a set of inexpensive ramps or a series of wooden blocks (made from 2x8s or similar) for a basic lift, providing some initial clearance. 
2. Use a floor jack: Opens in new tabUse the floor jack to lift the car further, reaching the desired height for working under it. 
3. Place jack stands: Opens in new tabCrucially, place jack stands under the chassis or frame rails to securely support the vehicle. Never rely on the jack alone. 

For a Permanent Height Increase (More Involved)
These options provide a longer-term lift but are more complex and costly. 

• Body Lift Kits (Trucks): Opens in new tabFor trucks, the cheapest way to get a substantial lift is often a body lift kit (starting around $100). These kits use blocks to raise the body off the frame, providing significant height. 
• Torsion Keys (Trucks): Opens in new tabOn trucks with torsion bars, a more modest lift can be achieved by installing aftermarket torsion keys (around $150). This allows for a small height increase (1-1.5 inches) but can result in a rougher ride. 

Other Methods

• Air Jack: Opens in new tabA simple deflated bag is placed under a tire and then inflated with air to lift the car. 
• DIY Spring Inserts (Sketchy): Opens in new tabA method involving welding pieces of angle iron between the coils of a spring to make it stiffer and provide more height for an extra 2 inches of clearance. This method is considered less safe and is for specific applications.