How to Raise a Car Off the Ground

Park on level ground, chock the wheels, engage the parking brake, locate the manufacturer’s jack points, lift with a correctly rated jack, and always support the vehicle with jack stands before working—never rely on a jack alone. This guide explains safe methods for lifting one wheel, one end, or the entire vehicle, with tips for conventional cars, trucks, off-road situations, and EVs/hybrids.

Safety First

Before any lifting, set up a safe work area and establish redundancies so a single failure won’t result in injury or damage. The following rules apply no matter which lift method you use.

• Work on a flat, solid surface (concrete or asphalt). Avoid slopes and soft ground.
• Engage the parking brake; set an automatic transmission to Park, a manual to 1st gear or Reverse.
• Chock the wheels that remain on the ground, on both sides of the tire if possible.
• Use a jack and stands with capacity above your vehicle’s weight at the lifted end; check the rated load (e.g., 2-ton, 3-ton) and certifications (ASME PALD/PASE).
• Lift only at designated jack points; consult the owner’s manual for exact locations.
• Never place any part of your body under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands or ramps.
• Wear eye protection and gloves; keep bystanders and pets away.
• Do a “shake test” after lowering onto stands to verify stability before working.

Following these baseline precautions drastically reduces the most common lifting hazards: vehicle roll, jack failure, and improper support point damage.

Tools and Equipment You’ll Need

The exact kit depends on your task (tire change vs. full underbody service). Here are common tools that make lifting safer and easier.

• Floor jack (hydraulic trolley jack) with adequate lift range and capacity.
• Jack stands (pair or set of four) with locking pawls or pin-style locks.
• Wheel chocks (rubber or heavy-duty plastic).
• Owner’s manual (for jack points and cautions).
• Lug wrench or breaker bar and a torque wrench for reinstallation.
• Jack pad adapters (e.g., pinch-weld blocks, Tesla jack pucks) where required.
• A creeper or mat, work light, gloves, and safety glasses.
• Optional: Drive-on ramps, a sturdy jack board/plywood for soft ground, and cribbing blocks.

Investing in properly rated, well-maintained equipment pays off in safety and efficiency, especially if you’ll be lifting the vehicle regularly.

Identify Proper Lift and Jack Points

Lift points are reinforced sections designed to carry the car’s weight. Typical passenger cars have pinch-weld rails along the rocker panels with marked jack points; many also have central front and rear points on the subframe or crossmember. Trucks and body-on-frame SUVs often use the frame rails or axle housings (see manual). EVs and hybrids can have battery packs covering the floor; never lift under the battery or orange high-voltage cables. Vehicles with air suspension require a “Jack” or “Service” mode to prevent self-leveling—enable it before lifting, per the manual.

Step-by-Step: Lift One End with a Floor Jack and Support with Jack Stands

This is the most common method to raise the front or rear for brakes, oil changes, or suspension work. Always confirm your vehicle’s designated lift points before proceeding.

1. Preparation: Park on level ground, engage parking brake, place wheel chocks at the opposite end.
2. Locate lift points: Identify the front or rear center lift point (or the side points if your car lacks a central point).
3. Position the jack: Roll the floor jack under the lift point; use a jack pad adapter if needed to protect pinch welds or underbody.
4. Lift smoothly: Pump the handle to raise the vehicle until the target wheels are off the ground just enough for your task.
5. Place jack stands: Position stands under the manufacturer-approved support points on both sides; set them to equal height.
6. Lower onto stands: Slowly open the jack valve to transfer weight onto the stands; verify both stands carry the load.
7. Stability check: Gently push the vehicle at the bumper or body to ensure it’s solid. Add a secondary backup (e.g., a wheel laid flat under the pinch weld) without bearing weight.
8. After work, lowering: Jack the car slightly to unload the stands, remove stands, then lower slowly and remove chocks last.

Raising in a controlled, gradual manner and verifying stand placement at each step ensures stable support and reduces risk of slippage or underbody damage.

Lifting All Four Wheels (Advanced)

To get the entire vehicle off the ground, you’ll typically lift one end, set stands, then lift the other end. Some vehicles have dedicated central front and rear points that make this process easier.

1. Lift the front (or rear) at the central point and place two stands under the approved left/right support points.
2. Move to the opposite end and repeat, placing two stands; ensure all four stands are on the same plane and heights are matched.
3. Perform a thorough stability check; use secondary backups (cribbing, wheels under rails) without carrying load.
4. For frequent full lifts, consider portable hydraulic frames or a professional two-post lift installed to code.

Full-vehicle lifts concentrate risk; use higher-capacity equipment, confirm central lift points, and never exceed rated jack/stand capacities.

Using Drive-On Ramps

Ramps are quick and stable for front- or rear-end access where wheels can remain on the vehicle; they’re excellent for oil changes or exhaust work.

1. Place ramps centered in front of the drive wheels; ensure they’re on a flat surface.
2. Chock the opposite wheels and set the parking brake.
3. Drive up slowly until the tires contact the ramp stops; have a spotter if possible.
4. Shift to Park or gear, engage parking brake, shut off the engine, and add extra chocks behind the tires on the ramps.

Ramps offer broad contact and reduce point-load risks, but they limit suspension droop and aren’t suitable when wheels must be removed.

Changing a Tire with the Vehicle’s Scissor Jack

The factory jack is designed for roadside tire changes only, not for under-car work. Use it strictly as directed by your manual.

1. Pull well off the roadway onto level ground; switch on hazards, apply parking brake, and chock the opposite wheel.
2. Loosen lug nuts a half-turn before lifting.
3. Locate the designated jacking point near the flat tire; position the scissor jack and ensure it’s square and seated.
4. Raise the vehicle just enough for the tire to clear the ground.
5. Remove the lugs, swap the wheel, hand-tighten lugs in a star pattern.
6. Lower the car and torque lugs to the manufacturer spec in a star pattern.
7. Recheck torque after driving 50–100 km (30–60 miles).

Limit scissor-jack use to emergency tire changes; for garage work, a floor jack and stands are safer and more stable.

Off-Road and Trucks: Bottle Jacks and Hi-Lift Use

On uneven or soft terrain, specialized techniques and accessories may be necessary. The goal is stable footing and minimal vehicle movement during recovery or tire service.

• Bottle jacks: Compact and strong; use on solid axles or frame points. Add a wide jack base or board on soft ground.
• Hi-Lift/farm jacks: Offer extreme lift range for off-road recovery using bumpers, rock sliders, or wheel lift straps. Require training; keep clear of the handle’s swing zone.
• Cribbing: Stack rated blocks to build height safely; keep stacks level and square.
• Always chock opposite wheels and consider using traction boards as stable bases.

Off-road lifting prioritizes a stable base and controlled movement; take extra time to build footing and use recovery-rated points and gear.

EV and Hybrid-Specific Notes

Battery packs and high-voltage components change where and how you lift. Use only manual-specified jack points; many EVs need jack pad “pucks” to avoid crushing the pack. Vehicles with air suspension (e.g., certain Tesla S/X, Audi, Mercedes) require activating Jack/Service mode to disable self-leveling before lifting. Never place stands under the battery tray, coolant lines, or orange high-voltage cabling. If unsure, consult the service manual for the exact lift diagram.

After Lifting: Working Under the Car

Once the vehicle is supported, adopt practices that maintain stability and ensure correct reassembly when the job is done.

• Perform a final shake test before going underneath.
• Use a secondary safety (a wheel or backup stand placed near—but not bearing—weight).
• Keep the work area tidy to avoid bumping stands; route tool hoses/cables thoughtfully.
• Follow torque specifications for all fasteners; use a calibrated torque wrench.
• When finished, lower slowly, remove chocks last, and verify brakes and steering before driving.

Careful habits after the lift are as important as the lift itself; they prevent slips, incorrect torque, and accidental movement.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These errors frequently lead to injuries or damage and are easily prevented with planning and the right gear.

• Lifting at non-approved points (crushing floors, batteries, or fuel/brake lines).
• Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• Using under-rated or damaged equipment, or mixing stands of different heights.
• Lifting on slopes or soft ground without a load-spreading base.
• Forgetting to enable Jack/Service mode on air-suspension vehicles.
• Skipping wheel chocks or the shake test.

A quick pre-lift checklist and a look at the owner’s manual eliminate most of these risks before they arise.

Legal, Warranty, and Equipment Notes

Improper lifting can void warranties or cause costly damage. Always follow the vehicle manufacturer’s jacking diagram and instructions. Some communities limit vehicle work in shared or street parking—check local rules. Verify that your jacks and stands meet current safety standards (ASME PALD/PASE) and are free of recalls; for example, there were widely publicized jack stand recalls in 2020. Replace any tool that shows cracks, bent components, slipping pawls, or hydraulic leaks.

Summary

To safely raise a car: choose a solid, level surface; chock wheels and set the brake; lift only at specified points with a rated jack; and support the vehicle with jack stands or ramps before working. Use manufacturer guidance—especially for EVs, hybrids, and air-suspension models—and build redundancy with careful setup, a stability check, and proper torque on reassembly.

How to get a car high off ground without a lift?

Drive up a sidewalk curb, half the car on the street and half on the sidewalk. Probably the safest and easiest way to do that without a Jack.

How to get a car higher off ground?

If you’re particularly strong, you might be able to lift it with just your arms. You could also use a crane. You could also put a lift kit on it to make it’s ride height higher.

What is the easiest way to lift a car?

And insert jack stands if you have them or need. Them. Now let’s go ahead and lower the car back down it’s pretty simple you’re just going to do what you did to raise it. But just do it in reverse.

How do you raise your car off the ground?

Points you can find your car’s specific jacking points in your owner’s. Manual. These points are strong enough to lift your car up on so you’ll have no problem putting your jack stands.