How to Raise the Height of a Car

You can raise a car by installing a suspension lift (spacers, taller springs/coilovers, torsion or leaf adjustments), fitting slightly taller tires, or—on body-on-frame trucks/SUVs—adding a body lift; the safest, most predictable route is a modest, high-quality suspension lift paired with professional alignment and checks for geometry, brake-line length, and legal height limits. Beyond the basics, choosing the right method depends on your vehicle type (unibody vs. body-on-frame), how much height you need, your budget, and how you use the car day-to-day.

Decide Your Goal and Limits

Before turning a wrench, define what you want from the extra height: a touch more clearance for curbs and driveways, better off-road capability and approach/departure angles, improved load-carrying stance, or simply a taller look. Balance those goals against trade-offs like handling changes, tire wear, center-of-gravity effects, warranty/insurance considerations, and local laws regulating bumper and headlight height. On modern vehicles (especially 2018–2025 models with advanced driver assistance systems), plan for a post-lift alignment and potential ADAS and headlight re-aim calibrations.

Main Ways to Raise Ride Height

The options below cover the common, effective methods to increase a vehicle’s ride height, from simplest to more involved. Your choice will hinge on vehicle architecture and how much lift you want.

• Taller tires (modest diameter increase)
• Suspension spacer lift (strut/coil spring spacers)
• Replacement springs and matched shocks or adjustable coilovers
• Torsion bar key adjustment or re-indexing (trucks/SUVs that use torsion bars)
• Leaf-spring options: add-a-leaf, new packs, or lift blocks (rear only)
• Air suspension or air helper springs (load leveling, adjustable height)
• Body lift kits (body-on-frame vehicles only)
• Front “leveling” kits (raise front to match factory rear rake)

Each method changes different parts of the vehicle and has distinct side effects. Suspension and tire changes increase ground clearance under the vehicle; body lifts raise the body relative to the frame without increasing axle/differential clearance.

What Each Method Involves

Taller Tires

Increasing overall tire diameter by 3–6% often nets 0.5–1.5 inches of extra ground clearance under the chassis and axles. This is the simplest approach on many cars and crossovers, but you must ensure fender, strut, and brake-line clearance at full lock and full suspension travel. Keep AWD/4WD systems within manufacturer tolerances (generally under ~3% diameter change across axles) to avoid drivetrain stress. Expect a slight reduction in acceleration and braking performance, possible speedometer error (recalibration may be needed), and potential gearing changes for large jumps on trucks.

Strut/Coil Spring Spacer Lift (MacPherson/Coil Spring Vehicles)

Top-mount spacers add 1–2.5 inches affordably by moving the strut downward relative to the body. They retain factory springs/shocks but increase angles at ball joints and CV axles. Quality kits include longer studs and hardware; after installation, get an alignment, check brake-line slack and sway bar link angles, and watch for “top-out” on rough roads. This is common for crossovers and many unibody SUVs.

Replacement Springs and Shocks or Adjustable Coilovers

Taller-rate springs with matched longer-travel dampers or height-adjustable coilovers raise ride height while preserving proper suspension travel. This is the best handling-oriented solution if you need 1–3 inches and drive spiritedly. It’s more expensive but reduces harsh top-out and maintains geometry better when paired with components like corrected upper control arms (on some IFS trucks) and bump-stop tuning.

Torsion Bar Adjustments (Trucks/SUVs)

Vehicles with torsion bars can be lifted by cranking or re-indexing keys for 1–2 inches. Ride can become harsher, and CV angles, ball joint wear, and droop travel must be monitored. Often combined with shock upgrades, differential drop kits, and alignment to keep geometry within spec.

Leaf-Spring Options (Rear of Many Trucks/SUVs)

Add-a-leaf inserts increase arch and add 1–2 inches plus load capacity, while full replacement packs provide better ride and articulation. Lift blocks can raise the rear economically but increase axle wrap—avoid blocks on front axles. Always install new U-bolts, and correct pinion angle with shims if necessary.

Air Suspension and Air Helper Springs

Full air systems allow on-demand height changes for clearance and load leveling, but they add cost and complexity (compressor, lines, management) and can be sensitive to leaks and cold weather. Air helper bags inside/over leaf springs keep the rear from sagging under load and can add modest static height but are not a substitute for a true suspension lift if you need more than about an inch.

Body Lift Kits (Body-on-Frame Only)

Poly/metal pucks raise the body 1–3 inches off the frame on trucks and some SUVs. They don’t improve differential/under-axle clearance, but they do create space for larger tires and reduce fender contact. Quality kits include steering shaft extensions, bumper relocation brackets, fan shroud and radiator mods, fuel-filler and wiring extensions. This is not applicable to unibody cars and crossovers.

Leveling Kits

Leveling kits lift the lower end of a vehicle—usually the front—to eliminate rake. They’re popular, inexpensive, and typically add 1–2 inches up front. While mostly cosmetic, they can reduce front bump travel and change alignment; pair with a post-install alignment and headlight aim.

Step-by-Step: Basic Spacer Lift on a MacPherson-Strut Car/SUV

The steps below outline a common approach for installing a modest (about 1–2 inch) strut-top spacer lift on many front-strut vehicles. Always consult a factory service manual and the kit instructions for your specific model and torque values.

1. Measure and plan: Record stock fender-to-hub measurements and confirm desired lift and tire size will fit without rubbing at full lock and full compression.
2. Gather tools and safety gear: Jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, breaker bar, spring compressors (if required by your kit), penetrating oil, and line/wire retaining clips.
3. Prepare the vehicle: Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels, loosen lug nuts, raise the vehicle, and support securely on stands. Remove wheels.
4. Free attached components: Unbolt or unclip the sway bar end link (if required), brake hose bracket, and ABS/sensor wiring from the strut to avoid strain.
5. Detach the strut: Loosen strut-to-knuckle bolts (mark camber bolt orientation if present). Support the knuckle/hub to prevent axle strain. Loosen top mount nuts and remove the strut assembly.
6. Install the spacer: Fit the spacer to the strut top hat per kit instructions (some require pressing in longer studs). Use thread locker if specified.
7. Reinstall the strut: Position the assembly back into the tower with the spacer, loosely thread top nuts, align and insert the knuckle bolts, then torque to spec. Reattach sway bar link, brake line brackets, and ABS wiring with proper routing.
8. Check travel and clearances: Cycle steering lock-to-lock and gently jack the control arm through some travel to confirm no binding of brake lines or CV boots.
9. Reinstall wheels and torque lugs: Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s spec.
10. Post-install essentials: Drive carefully to settle the suspension, then get a four-wheel alignment. Re-aim headlights, recalibrate ADAS if applicable, and recheck all fasteners after 50–100 miles.

This process varies by vehicle; some designs require separating ball joints or using spring compressors. If anything feels unclear or unsafe, have a qualified shop perform the work.

After the Lift: Must-Do Adjustments and Checks

Raising a vehicle alters suspension geometry and can affect safety systems. The following checks help preserve handling, tire life, and system function.

• Professional four-wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe) and steering wheel centering
• Headlight aim and, on newer vehicles, ADAS calibration for cameras/radars (ACC, lane-keep, auto high-beam)
• Brake-line length and routing; consider extended lines if near tension at full droop
• Sway bar link length and angle; correct to avoid pre-load and roll-oversteer
• CV axle, ball joint, and tie-rod angles; install corrective upper control arms or diff-drop kits if needed
• Driveshaft and U-joint/pinion angle; add shims or carrier bearing drops to prevent vibration
• Bump stops and droop limiters; ensure shocks aren’t the droop stop and avoid top-out
• Speedometer/odometer calibration for tire size change; update TPMS thresholds if applicable
• Tire/fender clearance under compression and at full lock; trim liners or adjust offset if required
• Re-torque all suspension fasteners and wheel lugs after initial miles
• Insurance notification and compliance with local bumper/headlight height limits and inspection rules
• Gearing and brake performance evaluation if tire diameter increased significantly

Addressing these items reduces the risk of vibration, premature wear, and safety-system errors while keeping the vehicle road-legal.

Costs, Time, and Difficulty (Approximate, 2025)

Budget varies widely by platform and lift amount. Expect the following ballpark ranges in USD:

• Taller tires: $600–$1,800+ for a set, plus mounting/balancing
• Spacer/leveling kit: $80–$300 for parts; $300–$800 labor
• Springs + matched shocks or entry coilovers: $800–$3,000+ parts; $500–$1,200 labor
• Add-a-leaf/new leaf packs: $200–$800 parts; $300–$900 labor
• Body lift (trucks/SUVs): $300–$700 parts; $800–$2,000 labor
• Air suspension systems: $1,500–$4,500+ installed
• Alignment: $120–$250; ADAS calibration: $150–$400
• Ancillaries (extended brake lines, UCAs, diff drop, re-gear for big tires): $200–$2,500+

DIY saves labor but demands proper tools, safe lifting practices, and access to alignment afterward. Complex setups can take a full weekend; shops typically need half to a full day plus calibration time.

Legal and Safety Considerations

Lifting raises the center of gravity, which can lengthen braking distances and increase rollover risk. Electronic stability control and ADAS systems are tuned for stock height; some manufacturers and insurers may scrutinize modifications. Headlight and bumper height limits vary by state and country, and annual inspections may enforce them. Modifications typically don’t invalidate federal safety standards, but you’re responsible for the configuration you put on the road. If you tow, confirm hitch height and payload changes; adjust mirrors and consider trailer brake settings after larger tire changes.

When to Leave It to a Professional

Seek professional help if your lift exceeds about 2 inches, involves torsion bars or leaf springs, requires cutting/pressing bushings, or you’re adding corrective geometry (UCAs, track-bar brackets, diff drops, subframe drops). Shops with ADAS calibration capability can complete alignment, headlight aim, and sensor calibration in one visit.

Summary

To raise a car safely and effectively, choose between taller tires, a moderate suspension lift (spacers or upgraded springs/shocks), and—on body-on-frame trucks—body lifts, matching the method to your vehicle and goals. Plan for a professional alignment, check lines and geometry, verify legal height, and recalibrate lights and ADAS where applicable. A conservative, well-engineered lift will deliver the clearance and stance you want without undermining handling, safety, or reliability.

Can you raise a car higher?

The most popular option is a suspension upgrade kit because it offers the best all-round results, this option involves replacing at least your stock coil/leaf springs, and shock absorbers and perhaps more, depending on the vehicle and the kit.

How do you raise your car up?

Here’s a quick look at the processes you should follow when jacking up your vehicle!

1. Park on a stable surface. Never attempt to jack up a car on unstable ground!
2. Chock the wheels.
3. Put the car in “park”
4. Locate the jack point on the vehicle.
5. Place the jack.
6. Raise the jack.
7. Lift the car.
8. Use jack stands or wheel cribs.

How to lift a car without a lift kit?

Run blocks under the vehicle and then let it down on the blocks. Then build up a base for your jack and lift the car farther while putting more blocks or timbers underneath. Repeat the process as needed. You need to immobilize the car to make sure it will not run forward or backwards on you as you lift it.

What to do if your car is too low?

An (air) suspension system could well be the solution! If your vehicle is too low, this indicates that your vehicle has an (overly) heavy load. As a result, there is little or no spring travel.