How to Raise the Suspension on a Car

You can raise a car’s suspension by installing taller springs or adjustable coilovers, adding strut top spacers, fitting spring spacers, adjusting torsion bars (if equipped), or switching to air suspension with a higher ride-height setting; afterward, a professional alignment and safety checks are essential. Below is a practical, up-to-date guide that explains each option, the trade-offs, and step-by-step outlines for common setups so you can choose the method that fits your car, budget, and goals.

What “Raising a Car” Really Means

Raising ride height increases ground clearance and approach/departure angles, helping you clear speed bumps, driveways, snow, or mild off-pavement terrain. Unlike lifting trucks, lifting passenger cars typically involves modest increases of about 10–40 mm (0.4–1.6 in) to preserve handling, axle angles, and component longevity. Bigger lifts are possible on some platforms but come with growing compromises in geometry, braking feel, and stability-control behavior.

Planning, Safety, and Legal Basics

Before you touch a wrench, confirm what your car’s suspension type can accommodate and what the law allows where you live. Many regions regulate headlight height, bumper height, and fender coverage. Any change in ride height also affects headlight aim and wheel alignment, and may require ADAS recalibration (cameras/radars) on newer vehicles. If you’re unsure, consult a professional shop familiar with your make and local rules.

Essential Tools and Equipment

The following items are commonly needed to safely raise a car’s suspension. Gather them in advance to keep the job organized and reduce downtime.

• Quality floor jack and rated jack stands (never rely on a jack alone)
• Torque wrench and socket set (including impact sockets if using an impact gun)
• Spring compressor (for coil spring/strut disassembly)
• Penetrating oil, breaker bar, and pry bar
• Wheel chocks and safety glasses/gloves
• Paint marker for indexing cam bolts and torsion bar keys (if applicable)
• Anti-seize compound and thread locker (as specified)

Having the right tools helps prevent damage to fasteners and components and ensures you can torque critical hardware to spec for safety and reliability.

Main Ways to Raise Ride Height

Different cars support different lift methods. The options below cover the majority of modern passenger vehicles with MacPherson struts or multi-link rears, plus torsion-bar and air-suspension variants.

• Adjustable coilovers: Replace springs and dampers with height-adjustable units for precise, reversible lift and matched damping.
• Taller springs: Swap in slightly taller or higher-rate “lift” springs designed for your model (often +10–30 mm).
• Strut top spacers: Install machined or composite spacers above strut tops to raise body relative to the suspension.
• Spring spacers (isolators): Add in-coil spacers or thicker rubber isolators for small lifts (typically up to ~15–20 mm).
• Torsion bar adjustment: On vehicles with front torsion bars, increase preload via adjusters or re-index keys.
• Air suspension: Raise target ride height via factory settings or recalibrated height sensors; aftermarket air systems offer on-demand lift.
• Tire diameter change: Slightly taller tires can add a few millimeters of effective clearance, but can affect gearing and speedometer accuracy.

Most car owners seeking mild lift and daily drivability choose either adjustable coilovers or a combination of lift springs and modest spacers, balancing clearance with predictable handling.

Pre-Install Checks

Before installing lift components, evaluate the car’s baseline condition to avoid amplifying existing problems such as worn bushings or leaking struts.

• Inspect shocks/struts for leaks and bushings/mounts for cracks or play.
• Check CV axle boots, ball joints, and tie-rod ends; extra angle from lifting stresses worn parts.
• Measure current fender-to-hub center height at all corners for comparison.
• Confirm brake line and ABS sensor wire slack through full droop and steering lock.
• Verify component compatibility and torque specs from the manufacturer.

Addressing wear and confirming fitment up front helps ensure the lift performs as intended and avoids post-install surprises.

Method 1: Installing Adjustable Coilovers

Coilovers provide the cleanest way to gain modest height while matching damping to spring rate. Choose reputable, model-specific kits that support slight lift rather than only lowering.

1. Safely lift and support the car; remove wheels.
2. Mark camber bolt positions on strut-to-knuckle mounts for reference.
3. Remove brake line brackets and ABS sensor clips from struts as needed.
4. Unbolt strut-to-knuckle hardware and the top mount nuts; remove the assembly.
5. Install coilovers per manufacturer instructions, setting an initial ride height target (e.g., +20 mm over stock).
6. Reattach knuckle, brake/ABS brackets, and torque all hardware to spec.
7. Repeat at all corners; reinstall wheels and lower the car onto level ground.
8. Settle the suspension by rolling the car or a short drive, then fine-tune coilover height adjustment equally side-to-side.
9. Book a professional alignment (and ADAS calibration if required).

This approach offers the best balance of adjustability and control, allowing fine tuning for load, comfort, and handling after the initial lift is set.

Method 2: Adding Strut Top Spacers (MacPherson Strut Cars)

Strut spacers raise the body without changing spring length, often used for mild lifts on crossovers and compact cars. Ensure the kit preserves correct top-hat geometry and includes longer hardware if required.

1. Support the vehicle and remove wheels; disconnect sway bar links if they preload the strut.
2. Free brake/ABS brackets from the strut body.
3. Unbolt strut-to-knuckle fasteners and top mount nuts; remove the strut assembly.
4. Fit the spacer onto the strut top per instructions; verify orientation and hardware length.
5. Reinstall the strut, carefully aligning the knuckle and top mount; torque to spec.
6. Reattach brackets and links; ensure no lines are taut at full droop or lock.
7. Repeat for remaining corners; reinstall wheels and lower the car.
8. Have the alignment adjusted to bring camber/caster/toe back into spec.

Spacers are cost-effective for a small lift, but they do not add travel; confirm there’s still adequate droop and that top-hat angles don’t induce binding.

Method 3: Torsion Bar Adjustment (If Equipped)

Some vehicles, especially older models and certain 4WD platforms, use torsion bars up front. Modest height increases are achieved by adjusting the torsion keys; large changes may need re-indexing and supporting mods.

1. Raise and support the vehicle under the frame; allow the suspension to droop.
2. Locate torsion bar adjuster bolts; mark current positions with a paint pen.
3. Turn adjusters evenly left/right to increase preload, typically in small, equal increments.
4. Lower the vehicle, bounce the suspension, and measure fender-to-hub heights to confirm even lift.
5. Check CV axle angles and droop travel; avoid maxing out droop stops.
6. Schedule an alignment to correct toe and camber changes.

Over-cranking torsion bars can reduce ride quality and droop, increase CV wear, and harm handling; keep adjustments conservative and balanced.

Air Suspension and Electronic Adjustments

Factory air suspension often supports selectable ride heights; consult the owner’s manual for “Off-road” or “Lift” modes. For persistent height changes, some platforms allow recalibration of height sensors via OEM diagnostic tools. Aftermarket air systems add on-demand lift but require professional installation, wiring, and periodic leak checks.

After the Lift: Alignment, Calibration, and Checks

Any lift changes geometry. To preserve safety and tire life, complete the following checks immediately after installation.

• Four-wheel alignment: camber, caster (if adjustable), and toe to factory or preferred specs.
• Headlight aim: raise or lower beams to legal heights; reattach/realign auto-level sensors.
• Brake lines and ABS wiring: confirm slack through full droop and steering lock.
• Sway bar link angles: consider longer links if bars are preloaded at rest.
• Bump stops and droop: ensure there’s usable travel in both directions.
• ADAS calibration: many 2018+ vehicles require recalibration after ride-height changes.
• Road test: listen for clunks, check steering centering, and inspect for fastener witness marks shifting.

These steps protect handling, braking, and driver-assistance performance, helping the car drive safely and predictably at the new height.

Trade-offs, Limits, and When to Stop

Raising a car increases center of gravity, can add bump steer, and may reduce shock travel if poorly executed. Aggressive lifts can accelerate wear on CV joints and ball joints, and may require corrective parts like camber bolts, offset bushings, roll-center adjusters, or longer brake lines. For daily-driven cars, modest lifts under ~30 mm typically preserve OEM dynamics best.

Cost and Time Estimates

Expect parts and labor to vary widely by vehicle and method: spring spacers ($50–$250 plus 2–4 hours), lift springs ($200–$600 plus 3–6 hours), quality coilovers ($800–$2,000+ plus 4–8 hours), torsion adjustments (1–2 hours), and alignment ($100–$250). Air systems range from $1,500 to $5,000+ installed. Prices differ by region and shop expertise.

Insurance and Warranty Considerations

Suspension modifications can affect warranty coverage on related components and may need to be disclosed to insurers. Keep receipts, document work, and use reputable, model-specific parts to minimize disputes and ensure insurability.

Frequently Asked Practical Tips

These quick tips address common questions that arise during a lift project.

• Aim for small, reversible changes first; test and iterate before going higher.
• Replace worn mounts and bushings during the lift to avoid rework.
• Re-torque all fasteners after 100–200 miles as components settle.
• If adding tire diameter, check clearance at full lock and over bumps.
• Choose dampers matched to spring rate to avoid pogoing or bottoming.

Following these practices improves reliability and reduces the chance of noise, vibration, or premature wear after the modification.

Summary

To raise a car’s suspension safely, choose a method suited to your platform—adjustable coilovers, lift springs, strut spacers, torsion adjustments, or air suspension—execute careful installation with proper tools, and finish with alignment, headlight aim, and ADAS checks. Keep lifts modest for road cars, verify legal limits, and plan for the trade-offs in handling and component wear. Done properly, a small lift can add valuable ground clearance without sacrificing everyday drivability.

How to adjust suspension height?

To lower the ride height, turn the upper “ride height adjuster” clockwise; to raise the ride height, turn the lower “lock nut” counterclockwise by the amount of adjustment. After turning the adjustment amount, tighten the lower bracket lock nut that was loosened at first step to complete the process.

Can you raise suspension?

A suspension lift is a modification to a vehicle to raise the ride height. It is done for the purpose of improving the off road performance of SUVs or trucks and other off-road vehicles, or for cosmetic purposes.

How can I increase the height of my car suspension?

Naturally, improving suspension will change from car to car, but there are a few general practices you can work towards to give yourself a better ride.

1. New tyres (and wheels).
2. Upgrade Strut Bearings.
3. Performance Coil-Overs.
4. Improve anti-roll bars or sway bars.

How much does it cost to raise suspension?

Raising your vehicle’s suspension can cost anywhere from $1,000 to $5,000+ for suspension lift kits, or $100 to $500 for less expensive body or leveling kits, plus installation costs. The price varies significantly based on your goals, vehicle, chosen components, and whether you DIY or hire a professional. A professional installation can add $500 to over $1,500 in labor, with total costs for a mild street lift running $1,500 to $3,000, and custom, off-road builds easily exceeding $5,000. 
Factors influencing cost:

• Lift Type:
  • Body Lifts: These use spacers between the frame and body and are cheaper, costing $100 to $500 for the kit. 
  • Suspension Lifts: These modify the actual suspension components and cost $1,000 to $5,000+ for kits. 
  • Leveling Kits: A more affordable option to lift the front or rear to match the other end, often just under $500. 
• Lift Height: Larger, more complex lifts of 4 inches or more require more parts and labor and are more expensive. 
• Vehicle and Goals: A custom lift for dedicated off-roading is far more costly than a mild lift for looks or light off-road use. 
• Parts vs. Labor: The cost of the lift kit itself varies significantly, but professional installation can be a substantial addition to the total price. 
• Associated Parts: You may need additional components like bigger tires and wheels, an alignment, or even upgraded CV joints, which add to the overall expense. 

How to estimate your cost:

1. Determine your goals: Are you looking for a modest improvement for larger tires, or a high-performance setup for serious off-roading?
2. Research lift kits: Look for kits for your specific make and model that offer the height you want. 
3. Get quotes: Contact local shops for both the parts and the installation, factoring in the time and labor involved. 
4. Account for extras: Don’t forget the cost of a professional alignment and potentially larger wheels and tires to complete the look and function.