How to Remove a Cam Screw

The quickest way to remove a cam screw depends on what “cam screw” you’re dealing with: for flat-pack furniture, rotate the cam lock to its open position and then withdraw or unscrew the cam bolt; for automotive camshaft bolts or caps, follow the service manual’s loosening sequence and use a cam-holding tool; for a stripped screw that’s “cammed out,” use penetrating oil, proper drive bits, impact, heat, or an extractor. Below is a detailed guide covering each scenario, with safety tips and troubleshooting for stuck or damaged hardware.

Identify the Kind of “Cam Screw” You Have

Before you start, it’s important to know which type of fastener you’re removing because the steps and tools vary significantly. The main types you’ll encounter are listed below.

• Furniture cam lock fastener: A round metal cam disk in a panel that locks onto a separate threaded cam bolt/dowel from an adjoining panel.
• Automotive camshaft fastener: Bolts holding cam caps, cam gears/sprockets, phasers, or cam sensor/retainer hardware in engines.
• Stripped screw with cam-out: A conventional screw whose head has been rounded by the driver slipping (cam-out), often stuck by thread-locker or corrosion.

Correctly identifying the fastener helps you choose the right method and prevents damage to parts or surfaces.

Tools and Materials You May Need

Gathering the right tools first saves time and reduces the risk of damage. Consider the items below based on your situation.

• Screwdrivers and bits: Flat, Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, hex; high-quality bits fit tighter and reduce cam-out.
• Allen/hex keys or sockets; Torx drivers; bit holder; ratchet or impact driver.
• Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD‑40 Specialist Penetrant).
• Heat source (electric heat gun or small butane torch; avoid open flame on furniture or near finishes/fluids).
• Cam-holding tool or sprocket holding tool (automotive), torque wrench, service manual specs.
• Pliers (needle-nose, locking), small pry tools, plastic shims/cards to protect edges.
• Rubber band or valve‑grinding compound (for extra bit grip), left‑hand drill bits, screw extractor kit.
• Safety gear: Gloves, eye protection; drop cloth for furniture; fender covers for vehicles.

Having these on hand will cover most removal scenarios from flat-pack furniture to engine work.

Method A: Removing a Furniture Cam Lock Fastener

Flat-pack furniture typically uses a two-part cam fastener: a cam lock (the round barrel recessed in the panel) and a cam bolt/dowel (threaded rod with a mushroom head) from the adjoining piece. Here’s the safe way to release and remove it.

1. Support the panels. Keep the joint supported so nothing tears out when the lock releases.
2. Locate the cam lock orientation mark. Most cam locks show an arrow or “lock/unlock” symbol. The open side must align with the bolt head to release.
3. Rotate the cam lock to the open position. Insert the correct driver (often flat, Phillips, or hex) and turn about 90° toward “open” (commonly counterclockwise, but follow the arrow). You should feel it disengage.
4. Pull the panels apart. Once unlocked, gently separate the pieces. Use a thin plastic shim or putty knife to protect veneers if needed.
5. Remove the cam bolt/dowel. With the joint open, unscrew the cam bolt from its panel by hand or with a screwdriver/hex key. If it’s stubborn, use pliers on the shank, protecting threads with tape.
6. Extract the cam lock (optional). If you need the cam barrel out, pull it straight from its recess. Some are snug; leverage gently with a plastic tool to avoid chipping the panel.

Correctly aligning the cam to its open position is the key step; forcing parts apart while still locked can blow out the particleboard around the fastener.

If the Cam Lock Spins, Strips, or Is Jammed

When a cam won’t unlock or just spins, these tactics help release it without destroying the panel.

• Relieve pressure: Slightly tighten the cam bolt (a quarter-turn) to relieve binding, then try unlocking again.
• Wedge the joint: Insert a thin shim near the cam to reduce side-load, then rotate to open.
• Stabilize the cam: Press a fingertip, painter’s tape, or a small pick against the cam edge to stop free-spinning while turning the screw.
• Penetrating oil: A tiny drop on the cam bolt head and threads can help; wait 10–15 minutes.
• Create a slot: If the cam’s drive is stripped, cut a shallow slot in the cam face with a rotary tool and use a flat screwdriver.
• Last resort—drill the cam: Use an appropriately sized bit (typically 6–8 mm) to remove the cam barrel face; pull the panels apart and replace the fastener afterward.

Work slowly and protect surfaces; particleboard and veneers are easy to chip when forcefully pried.

Method B: Removing Automotive Camshaft Bolts or Cam Cap Screws

Camshaft hardware is load- and sequence-sensitive. Incorrect removal can crack caps, bend cams, or throw off timing. Always consult the service manual for your specific engine’s torque values and sequences.

1. Disconnect the battery and set the engine at top dead center (TDC) on cylinder 1. Mark timing references clearly.
2. Relieve belt/chain tension. Use the designated tensioner procedure to avoid loading the cam gear or caps.
3. Use the correct holding tool. Lock or hold the camshaft/sprocket as specified; do not use the timing chain/belt to counterhold torque.
4. Loosen cam gear bolts or cam cap screws in sequence. Crack each fastener a small amount first, then back them out gradually in several passes. For caps under valve spring load, follow the criss-cross, incremental pattern in the manual (often 1/4–1/2 turn per pass).
5. Keep components in order. Mark caps by position and orientation; they are line-bored and not interchangeable. Store bolts with their caps.
6. Watch for thread-locker or torque-to-yield (TTY). Apply heat (approx. 150–250°C depending on compound) to release high-strength thread-locker if required, and replace TTY bolts instead of reusing them.

Reinstallation requires the reverse sequence with precise torque (and angle, if specified). Incorrect handling risks engine damage; when in doubt, defer to a qualified technician.

Method C: Removing a Screw That’s “Cammed Out” or Stripped

If the screwdriver slips and rounds the head, use controlled grip, lubrication, and—if needed—extraction tools to back the screw out without collateral damage.

1. Choose the perfect-fit bit. Try a fresh, high-quality bit; seat it fully and tap lightly with a hammer to set it.
2. Increase bite. Add valve-grinding compound or a thick rubber band between bit and head to boost friction.
3. Apply penetrating oil. Soak threads and wait 10–30 minutes; reapply as needed.
4. Use impact, not brute force. A hand impact driver converts hammer strikes into turning force with less cam-out.
5. Add heat if thread-locked. Warm the fastener head with a heat gun (avoid finishes, plastics, or fuel vapors). Blue thread-locker releases near ~150°C; red near ~250°C.
6. Try left-hand drill bits. Sometimes the bit grabs and spins the screw out while drilling.
7. Use a screw extractor. Drill a centered pilot hole, insert the extractor, and turn counterclockwise slowly.
8. Last resort: drill the head. Remove the head, lift off the clamped part, then grip and remove the remaining stud with pliers.

Work progressively from least to most invasive methods; rushing to drill or excessive torque can damage surrounding material.

Safety and Damage Prevention

Following a few precautions greatly reduces the chance of injury or part damage during removal.

• Wear eye protection and gloves; metal chips and wood fragments are common.
• Disconnect power sources and vehicle batteries before working near moving parts.
• Protect surfaces with tape or shims; avoid prying directly on veneers or painted edges.
• Control heat application around adhesives, finishes, fuel, and wiring.
• Catch small parts with a tray or cloth to prevent losing cams, bolts, or washers.
• Never use the timing chain/belt to counterhold cam gear torque.

Taking these precautions helps you remove the fastener cleanly and safely, and keeps reassembly straightforward.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These pitfalls often lead to stripped heads, broken panels, or engine misalignment.

• Forcing furniture panels apart while the cam is still locked.
• Using the wrong driver profile or a worn bit, which accelerates cam-out.
• Skipping the loosening sequence on cam caps, risking cracks or warping.
• Reusing torque-to-yield bolts that should be replaced.
• Applying open flame or excessive heat near adhesives, finishes, or fuel systems.

A deliberate, step-by-step approach avoids these issues and saves time overall.

Summary

To remove a cam screw, first identify the type: furniture cam lock, automotive camshaft hardware, or a stripped screw. Furniture cams unlock by rotating the barrel to the open position, then separating the panels and unscrewing the cam bolt. Automotive cam bolts and caps require a holding tool, strict loosening sequences, and reference to the service manual. For stripped or stuck screws, escalate from a perfect-fit bit and penetrating oil to impact, heat, left-hand drills, and extractors. With the right identification, tools, and safety steps, removal is efficient and low-risk.

How to get cam screws out?

To remove a cam lock screw, rotate the round metal cam lock with a screwdriver to line up its arrow with the screw, then gently pull the cam lock out of the panel’s hole. If the cam lock is stuck, press the pieces together firmly while you turn the cam, or use a rubber mallet to tap the pieces apart. Once the cam lock is detached from the screw, you can simply wiggle it out of the panel’s hole.
 
Steps to Remove a Cam Lock Screw

1. Identify the Cam Lock: Opens in new tabLook for the round metal part, usually with an arrow on its face, that connects two panels. 
2. Align the Arrow: Opens in new tabInsert the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the cam lock’s slot. Turn the screwdriver to rotate the cam so the arrow on its face points toward the other panel, or in line with the screw. 
3. Detach the Cam Lock: Opens in new tabOnce the arrow is aligned, the cam lock will release the screw. You should then be able to pull the pieces of furniture apart. 
4. Remove the Cam Lock: Opens in new tabAfter the connection is broken, the cam lock can simply be pulled out of its hole. 

This video shows how to detach the cam lock: 1mBasic WorksYouTube · Feb 18, 2022
If the Cam Lock is Stuck

• Apply Pressure: Opens in new tabPush the two panels together tightly while you turn the cam lock with a screwdriver. 
• Use a Mallet: Opens in new tabLay the unit on its back and gently tap the underside of the joint with a rubber mallet. You can protect the surface with a board if you don’t have a rubber mallet. 
• Use Pliers: Opens in new tabOnce the cam is released, use pliers to grip the cam lock and wiggle it out. 

What to Do if the Screw is Stuck in the Cam Lock

• Push and Turn: Push the cam lock as far into the hole as possible, then gently turn it to separate it from the screw. 
• Use a Stronger Tool: If a screwdriver isn’t working, try using a pair of pliers or vise grips to get a better grip on the cam lock and turn it. 

You can watch this video to learn how to remove a cam lock with pliers: 51sGo1US1MarinesYouTube · Jan 29, 2021

How to remove a cammed out screw?

This tool is designed specifically for screw removal. Each bit has two ends one for burnishing. And the other for extraction.

How to disconnect camlock?

If the cam lock does not come apart apply lubricating spray in the connection. Lightly pull and twist the connection. Again remove whip check.

How to take off camlocks?

Turn it in the designated. Direction and the cam lock should release allowing you to pull it. Out.