How to Reset Power Steering

There is no single universal reset for power steering: electric systems (EPS) can often be recalibrated with a lock-to-lock steering and ignition cycle or via a scan tool, while hydraulic systems are “reset” by bleeding air from the fluid circuit. If a power steering warning light remains on or steering feels abnormal, a diagnostic scan and repair may be required. Below is a clear, step-by-step guide to identify your system and apply the correct method safely.

Know Your System: Electric vs. Hydraulic

Modern cars (roughly 2010 and newer) commonly use Electric Power Steering (EPS), which may set fault codes and require steering angle sensor (SAS) calibration. Older vehicles and some trucks use hydraulic power steering (HPS), which needs fluid maintenance and bleeding after leaks or component replacement. Identifying your system determines whether you recalibrate electronics or bleed fluid.

How to tell which system you have

Check your owner’s manual or look under the hood for a power steering fluid reservoir. If there’s no reservoir and you see an electric assist unit on the steering column or rack, it’s likely EPS. If there’s a belt-driven pump and fluid lines, it’s hydraulic.

Quick Recalibration for Electric Power Steering (No Scan Tool)

This procedure can clear minor EPS glitches after a battery change, alignment, or steering work. It resets the system’s interpretation of the steering center and torque inputs.

1. Ensure basics: Inflate tires to spec, verify a healthy battery (12.4–12.7 V engine off), and confirm the steering wheel is installed correctly.
2. Start the engine with the vehicle safely parked and the front wheels on the ground, pointed straight ahead.
3. Slowly turn the wheel from full left lock to full right lock and back 2–3 times. Do not jerk the wheel or hold it hard against the stops—just reach the stops briefly.
4. Center the wheel (logo straight) and let the car idle for 10–20 seconds.
5. Drive straight at 10–20 mph (15–30 km/h) for 30–60 seconds on a safe, flat road, keeping the wheel centered.
6. Stop, switch the ignition OFF for 30 seconds, then restart and confirm the EPS light is off and the steering feels normal.

If the EPS light remains on, the wheel won’t center, or assist is inconsistent, proceed to a scan-tool calibration or professional diagnosis.

Steering Angle Sensor Calibration (With a Scan Tool)

After alignment, steering work, or battery replacement, many vehicles require SAS calibration through an advanced OBD-II scan tool that can access ABS/ESC and EPS modules.

1. Park with wheels straight. Keep the steering wheel exactly centered.
2. Connect an OBD-II scan tool that supports ABS/ESC/EPS functions (not just basic code reading).
3. Enter the ABS/ESC or EPS module menu and select “Steering Angle Sensor Calibration,” “Zero Point Calibration,” or “EPAS Relearn.”
4. Follow on-screen prompts. Typically, you hold the wheel centered, confirm, and let the module write the new zero point.
5. Clear any stored fault codes, then test drive straight ahead for 30–60 seconds and recheck for warnings.

A proper SAS calibration aligns the car’s stability control, lane-keep, and EPS assist with the true straight-ahead position, improving both feel and safety.

Hydraulic Power Steering: Bleeding Air (Fluid “Reset”)

If the steering is noisy, foamy, or jerky after a fluid loss or component replacement, bleed the system to purge air. Always use the exact fluid specified by the manufacturer—some require dedicated PSF, others ATF.

1. Safely raise the front wheels off the ground and support the vehicle on jack stands.
2. Fill the reservoir to the correct level with the specified fluid.
3. With the engine OFF, slowly turn the wheel lock-to-lock 20–30 times. Refill as the level drops; avoid spilling fluid on belts.
4. Let the car sit 5–10 minutes to let bubbles rise. Top off fluid.
5. Start the engine and let it idle. Slowly turn lock-to-lock 10–15 times. Do not hold the wheel at the stops. Watch the fluid: some slight foaming may occur initially.
6. Shut off the engine, recheck and top off fluid, then lower the car and road test. Listen for whining and check assist. Recheck fluid level after the test.

Persistent aeration, groaning, or a rapidly dropping fluid level indicates a leak or component fault that bleeding alone will not fix.

Battery/Module Power Reset (Use With Caution)

Some transient EPS faults clear after a full power cycle, but this is not a cure for mechanical issues. Modern vehicles may lose window and radio presets or require ADAS calibrations after battery disconnects.

1. Turn everything off and disconnect the negative battery cable for 10–15 minutes. Use a memory saver if required by your vehicle.
2. Reconnect, start the engine, and perform the EPS lock-to-lock procedure and a short straight-ahead drive as above.
3. If the warning returns, scan for codes rather than repeating battery pulls.

If a code or warning returns immediately after a battery reset, the system is detecting a real fault that needs diagnosis.

When Not to “Reset” and Seek Diagnosis Instead

Some symptoms point to mechanical or electrical faults that can’t be solved by recalibration or bleeding.

• Red steering warning or no assist at all.
• Grinding, strong burning smell, metal flakes in fluid, or visible leaks.
• Steering binds, sticks off-center, or pulls hard after alignment.
• Repeated fault codes for torque sensor, motor overheat, low voltage, or communication errors.
• Collision damage, bent tie rods, or subframe/steering rack movement.

In these cases, a professional inspection with a factory-capable scan tool and mechanical checks is the safest route.

Brand-Specific Notes (General Guidance)

Procedures vary by make and model; always verify with a service manual or OEM service site.

• Toyota/Lexus: SAS “zero point” calibration often required after alignment or battery work; usually performed via scan tool. Older models allowed a DLC jumper method—use a scan tool instead to avoid errors.
• Ford/Lincoln: EPAS “steering center find”/SAS learn available in ABS/PSC modules. A lock-to-lock relearn after battery work is common but may still need a scan tool.
• GM/Chevrolet/GMC: Use SAS learn in ABS/EPS modules; some trucks also require a “rack end stop learn.”
• VW/Audi: Basic settings for steering angle in ABS; often requires driving straight and keeping the wheel centered during adaptation.
• Honda/Acura: EPS resets and SAS calibrations available in HDS-compatible tools; low battery voltage commonly triggers EPS lights.
• BMW/Mini: DSC/ASC modules manage SAS; perform “steering angle sensor adjustment” and clear DSC/EPS codes, then road test.

Even within a brand, specifics differ by year and platform, so following model-specific prompts on a capable scan tool is essential.

Tools and Tips

Having the right tools makes resets and calibrations safer and more effective.

• Advanced OBD-II scan tool with ABS/ESC/EPS and SAS calibration support.
• Correct power steering fluid (or ATF if specified), funnel, and rags.
• Jack, stands, torque wrench for wheel lugs if wheels are removed.
• Battery maintainer/memory saver to stabilize voltage during procedures.

Using OEM-equivalent tools and the correct fluid prevents repeat issues and ensures safety systems function as designed.

What It Should Feel Like After a Successful Reset

After recalibration or bleeding, the steering wheel should self-center predictably, track straight on a flat road with minimal input, be free of groaning/whining, and show no EPS warning lights. Any deviation suggests further diagnosis is needed.

Summary

Resetting power steering depends on the system. For EPS, try a careful lock-to-lock and straight-ahead drive, or perform a steering angle sensor calibration with a capable scan tool. For hydraulic systems, bleed the fluid circuit to purge air. If warnings persist, assist is lost, or noises/leaks appear, stop and get a proper diagnosis—resets won’t fix underlying faults.