How to Solve Power Steering Problems

Start by identifying which type of power steering your vehicle uses (hydraulic, electro-hydraulic, or electric), then check fluid level and condition, look for leaks or a slipping belt, scan for diagnostic trouble codes, and address worn components or software faults; if symptoms persist or safety is in doubt, seek a professional inspection. Power steering issues range from simple maintenance to repairs that affect vehicle control, so a structured approach helps you fix what’s fixable at home and recognize when to get expert help.

Know Your System: Hydraulic vs. Electric

Before troubleshooting, determine your vehicle’s steering architecture. Each system fails in distinct ways and requires different checks, tools, and fluids.

• Hydraulic Power Steering (HPS): Uses a belt-driven pump and dedicated fluid reservoir; failures often involve leaks, low fluid, or pump/rack wear.
• Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering (EHPS): An electric motor drives the hydraulic pump; has fluid and hoses, but also fuses/relays and control modules.
• Electric Power Steering (EPS): No hydraulic fluid; an electric motor provides assist, typically with sensors on the column or rack and a control module.

Identifying the system narrows likely causes and prevents the common mistake of adding the wrong fluid or chasing nonexistent leaks on EPS cars.

Symptoms and What They Usually Mean

Common steering symptoms point to a handful of causes. Matching the symptom to the likely fault speeds your diagnosis.

• Heavy steering at all speeds: Low/incorrect fluid (HPS/EHPS), failed pump, broken serpentine belt, dead EPS motor or module, blown fuse, very low battery voltage.
• Heavy at low speed but OK at highway: Weak pump, low idle/dragging belt, sticky rack spool valve, EPS torque/angle sensor fault or software calibration issue.
• Intermittent assist or steering wheel “kicks”: Electrical connection, overheating EPS motor, low charging voltage, EHPS relay or module fault.
• Whine or groan while turning: Aerated or old fluid, restricted filter/screen in reservoir, pump wear, belt slip.
• Jerky or notchy feel near center: Internal rack wear, column U-joint binding, EPS torque sensor degradation, alignment/binding tie rods.
• Pulling to one side: Uneven tire pressure, alignment issue, sticking caliper, rack internal leak (HPS).
• Foamy or dark glittery fluid: Aeration/contamination or metal wear from pump/rack.
• Steering wheel off-center or ADAS warnings after repair: Steering angle sensor needs calibration; alignment required.

Use the symptom profile as a roadmap—then validate with visual checks, fluid inspection, and scan data before replacing parts.

Step-by-Step Diagnostics You Can Do at Home

These checks progress from simple to more involved and cover both hydraulic and electric systems. Always secure the vehicle and use proper safety gear.

1. Confirm system type in your owner’s manual or service info.
2. Inspect the serpentine belt and tensioner (HPS/EHPS). A glazed, cracked, or loose belt can mimic pump failure.
3. Check tire pressures and look for uneven tire wear that can increase steering effort.
4. For HPS/EHPS, check fluid level when cold and examine color/odor: red ATF, amber/yellow PSF, or green CHF depending on spec. Milky means water/air; black/metallic indicates wear.
5. Look for leaks at hose crimps, pump shaft, reservoir, cooler, and rack boots. Fresh oil on undertray or subframe is a clue.
6. Listen for noises with the hood open: squeal (belt), rhythmic groan (air in system), high-pitched whine (pump).
7. Scan for codes with an OBD-II tool that can read chassis/steering modules. EPS/EHPS may log C-codes for torque sensor, angle sensor, overcurrent, or undervoltage.
8. Check battery state (≥12.4 V engine off) and charging voltage (13.5–14.8 V running). Low voltage often disables EPS.
9. Inspect fuses/relays for EPS/EHPS and wiggle-test connectors at the column, rack, and pump for intermittent faults.
10. Verify alignment/suspension basics: bent tie rods, seized ball joints, or a collapsed strut bearing can cause heavy/jerky steering.
11. Perform a steering angle sensor calibration (many cars allow it via scan tool or specific steering wheel procedures after alignment or battery work).
12. Road-test on a quiet street: note when the issue appears (cold vs. hot, low-speed parking vs. highway), which helps separate fluid viscosity issues from thermal/electrical faults.

If a step clearly identifies a fault—like a frayed belt, blown fuse, or leaking hose—address that first and recheck before moving deeper.

Fixes by System Type

Hydraulic and Electro-Hydraulic Systems: Common Fixes

Hydraulic steering cares about clean, correct fluid, leak-free plumbing, and proper belt drive. Address the basics before major replacements.

• Use only the specified fluid: ATF (Dexron/Mercon), dedicated PSF, or CHF-11S/CHF-202 as listed in the manual; do not mix types.
• Top up and bleed air: With front wheels off the ground, turn lock-to-lock slowly while maintaining fluid level; avoid holding at full lock.
• Fix leaks at clamps or O-rings; replace cracked hoses or rusty lines; consider new reservoir if its internal filter is clogged.
• Replace a slipping belt and worn tensioner; confirm pulley alignment.
• Flush contaminated fluid using the return-hose method to avoid starving the pump; refill with the correct fluid.
• Replace a noisy/weak pump or a rack with internal leaks (fluid in rack boots is a giveaway); align afterward.
• For EHPS, also check the pump’s power and ground circuits and the control relay/module.

Most hydraulic problems improve dramatically with correct fluid service and leak repair; persistent noise or heavy steering after bleeding suggests pump or rack wear.

Electric Power Steering (EPS): Common Fixes

EPS issues are typically electrical or software related. Proper diagnostics with a scan tool pays off.

• Scan and record EPS codes and live data (steering angle, torque sensor, motor current, temperature).
• Correct low voltage: replace a weak battery and verify alternator output and grounds.
• Update EPS software if a calibration/TSB applies; many manufacturers issue updates for assist feel or sensor drift.
• Recalibrate the steering angle sensor after alignment, battery replacement, or column work.
• Repair wiring/connectors at the column/rack; look for corrosion or chafing at harness bends and bulkhead pass-throughs.
• Address sensor faults: torque/angle sensor failures may require column or rack replacement on many designs.
• Replace the EPS motor or module if codes and tests indicate internal failure or thermal shutdown.

Because EPS directly affects control, do not ignore warning lights or binding; if resets or calibrations don’t hold, professional evaluation is prudent.

Fluids and Bleeding: Do It Right

Using the correct fluid is critical. Some vehicles require CHF-11S/CHF-202 (green), others ATF-based fluids (red), and some specify a unique PSF. Mixing fluids can swell seals and damage pumps.

Follow this general bleeding process after fluid service or component replacement on HPS/EHPS:

1. Lift the front wheels and secure the vehicle; engine off.
2. Fill the reservoir to the cold mark with the specified fluid.
3. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock slowly 10–20 times to purge air; keep the reservoir from running low.
4. Let the vehicle sit 10–15 minutes; air bubbles will rise.
5. Start the engine and repeat slow lock-to-lock turns; avoid holding at full lock more than two seconds.
6. Top up to the hot mark after reaching operating temperature; recheck for foam or groan.

A quiet, smooth wheel with stable fluid level indicates success; persistent foam or noise suggests a suction-side air leak, clogged reservoir screen, or failing pump.

When to See a Professional

Certain conditions signal deeper faults or safety risks that warrant shop tools, lifts, or specialized calibration equipment.

• EPS warning light stays on, or assist cuts out with codes.
• Metallic glitter in fluid, fluid inside rack boots, or persistent groan after proper bleeding.
• Notchy or binding feel near center, or wheel does not self-center after turns.
• Steering wheel removal or airbag handling would be required.
• After collision/curb impact, or if the subframe/rack was disturbed.
• ADAS cameras/sensors need calibration following alignment or steering work.
• Open recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) exist for your VIN (check NHTSA SaferCar.gov or your manufacturer’s site).

Professional diagnosis can prevent parts “blizzards” and ensure the steering system—central to safety—works as designed.

Typical Costs and Time

Actual prices vary by vehicle and region, but these ranges help with planning.

• Fluid flush/service: $80–$150
• Pressure/return hose: $100–$350
• Pump replacement: $300–$800
• Steering rack (HPS/EPS): $900–$2,500
• EPS column/module/motor: $700–$2,000
• Belt and tensioner: $150–$400
• Wheel alignment: $90–$180
• Software update/reflash: $100–$200

Confirm estimates with a shop after diagnosis; replacing the right part once is cheaper than multiple guesses.

Preventive Maintenance

A few habits can extend the life of pumps, racks, and EPS motors—and keep steering feel consistent.

• Check fluid level/condition at each oil change (HPS/EHPS); flush per manufacturer intervals or if dark/contaminated.
• Do not hold the wheel at full lock for more than a couple of seconds.
• Maintain tire pressures and avoid oversized wheels that stress the system.
• Inspect the serpentine belt and tensioner annually; replace at the first signs of wear.
• Keep the battery and charging system healthy; EPS is voltage sensitive.
• Periodically check for TSBs or software updates on newer vehicles.

Small, regular checks reduce the chance of sudden assist loss and can prevent costly component failures.

Safety Notes

Working around steering components demands care. Hot fluid, spinning belts, and airbag systems can cause injury.

• Support the vehicle securely and keep hands clear of belts and pulleys.
• Use the correct fluid; mixing types can damage seals and pumps.
• Disconnect the battery and follow manufacturer procedures before touching the steering column or wheel.
• Dispose of used fluid responsibly; it’s hazardous waste.

If unsure about any step, stop and consult a professional—steering is a primary safety system.

Summary

Solving power steering problems starts with identifying the system, observing symptoms, and checking fundamentals: fluid, leaks, belt, voltage, fuses, and sensor calibrations. Hydraulic systems often respond to proper fluid service and leak repair; EPS issues hinge on clean power, good connections, calibrations, and, when needed, component replacement. Use a scan tool, follow the correct bleed procedure, and verify recalls/TSBs. When symptoms suggest internal wear or persistent electrical faults, a professional inspection is the safest path.

How do you fix power steering problems?

To fix power steering problems, first check the power steering fluid level and add the correct type if low, as this is the most common cause of stiff steering and whining noises. If the fluid level is good, inspect the belt for tightness, as a loose belt can cause a screeching sound and loss of assistance. If these steps don’t resolve the issue, look for leaks in hoses, the pump, or the steering rack, or consider a system flush for clogs. For persistent problems, consult a mechanic to diagnose complex issues like a failing pump or steering rack.
 
This video demonstrates how to check power steering fluid levels and identify potential leaks in the system: 50sScotty KilmerYouTube · Nov 4, 2010
1. Check and Top Off Power Steering Fluid 

• Locate the Reservoir: Open the hood and find the power steering fluid reservoir, usually marked with a steering wheel symbol. 
• Check Fluid Level: With the engine off, check the fluid level against the minimum and maximum lines on the reservoir. 
• Add Fluid (if needed): If low, add the specific power steering fluid recommended in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. Overfilling can cause problems. 
• Look for Air Bubbles: After adding fluid, look for air bubbles in the reservoir; if present, there’s an air leak in the system. 

2. Inspect the Drive Belt 

• Locate the Belt: Identify the power steering drive belt (serpentine belt). 
• Check for tightness: With the engine off, try to tighten the belt. A loose belt can cause a loud, screeching sound. 

3. Look for Leaks 

• Inspect Hoses and Fittings: Check the hoses and fittings for any cracks or leaks. 
• Examine the Pump and Rack: Look for fluid leaks around the power steering pump and the steering rack, which connects to the tie rods and steering column. 
• Check for Loose Clamps: Ensure any clamps on the hoses are tight. 
• Consider an Additive: If you find minor leaks, a power steering stop leak additive may help, but it’s crucial to know the correct fluid type for your vehicle, as foamy fluid can indicate the wrong type. 

You can watch this video to learn how to inspect the drive belt and power steering pump for issues: 59sEricTheCarGuyYouTube · Jun 13, 2020
4. Consider System Flushing or a Mechanic 

• Flush the System: If you suspect a clog or the fluid is contaminated, you can flush the system with a power steering cleaner to remove sticky valves. 
• Seek Professional Help: If these steps don’t work, a mechanic can properly diagnose and fix complex issues like a failing power steering pump, a severely leaking steering rack, or a binding suspension component. 

This video provides tips for flushing the power steering system to resolve clogs: 58sCashedOutCarsYouTube · Mar 22, 2023

What is the most common cause of power steering failure?

The most common causes of power steering failure are a low fluid level due to a leak and a worn-out or slipping drive belt that powers the pump. Other causes include a failing power steering pump, a damaged or failing power steering rack, or issues with the system’s hoses, couplings, or, in the case of electric power steering, a faulty control module or motor.
 
For Hydraulic Power Steering (Fluid-Based)

• Fluid Leaks: This is the most frequent cause of power steering issues, leading to low fluid levels and a loss of hydraulic pressure. Leaks can originate from cracked hoses, loose couplings, or a failing power steering rack. 
• Worn-Out Drive Belt: A slipping or damaged belt that drives the power steering pump will prevent the pump from operating, resulting in heavy steering. 
• Failing Power Steering Pump: The pump, which pressurizes the fluid, can wear out over time, leading to reduced pressure, whining noises, and eventual failure. 
• Worn Hoses: Over time, hoses can become cracked, brittle, or lose their seals, leading to fluid leaks. 
• Faulty Power Steering Rack: The steering rack can develop wear and tear, including faulty seals, that can cause fluid leaks and power steering failure. 

For Electric Power Steering (EPS)

• Faulty Control Module: Modern vehicles often use electric power steering, and the onboard computer module is a common point of failure. 
• Failing Electric Motor: The electric motors that assist steering can also fail, leading to loss of power assist. 

How to Troubleshoot

1. Check Fluid Level: Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir and ensure the fluid is at the proper level. 
2. Look for Leaks: Check for any visible fluid leaks under the car, especially around the hoses and steering rack. 
3. Inspect the Belt: Examine the power steering belt for cracks, fraying, or signs of slipping. 
4. Listen for Noises: Pay attention to any whining or grinding noises when turning the steering wheel, which can signal a pump problem. 

If you notice any signs of power steering failure, have the system inspected by a professional to prevent more significant damage and ensure safe driving conditions.

How much does it cost to fix a power steering issue?

Fixing power steering can cost anywhere from $10 for a fluid top-off to well over $1,000 for a full system replacement. Most repairs are for common issues like a faulty power steering pump, which can cost $500 to $900 to replace, or a leaking hose, which is less expensive at $60 to $150. The final cost depends on the specific part needed, the make and model of your vehicle, and the labor rates at your shop. 
Cost Breakdown by Component

• Power Steering Fluid: Opens in new tabFor a simple top-off, it’s a cheap fix, costing around $10 to $20. 
• Hose Replacement: Opens in new tabA leaky hose can be fixed for $60 to $150, with labor costs making up a significant portion of that price, according to Jiffy Lube. 
• Power Steering Pump: Opens in new tabExpect to pay $500 to $900 on average for a pump replacement, though this varies significantly by vehicle, says Synchrony. 
• Power Steering Rack and Pinion: Opens in new tabA complete rack and pinion replacement is a more expensive job, with costs potentially reaching $1,000 or more, according to Reddit users. 

Factors Influencing the Cost

• Parts vs. Labor: The price of parts and the labor rate for the mechanic are the biggest cost factors. 
• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury or high-end vehicles may have more expensive parts, driving up the total cost, notes Kelley Blue Book. 
• Type of Part: Opting for a new, rebuilt, or used part affects the initial cost; a new pump is typically more expensive than a rebuilt or used one. 
• Dealerships vs. Independent Shops: Dealerships often charge 20% to 50% more than independent shops for the same repair, according to CarTalk. 

What to Do

1. Check Your Fluid: The easiest and cheapest fix is often simply adding more power steering fluid, says Earnhardt Lexus. 
2. Get a Professional Diagnosis: Have a mechanic inspect your system to pinpoint the exact problem, whether it’s a simple leak or a more serious component failure. 
3. Request a Detailed Estimate: Ask for an itemized quote that includes parts and labor to understand the specific costs involved. 

Can you still drive if power steering goes out?

Yes, you can typically drive a vehicle if the power steering goes out, but it will require significantly more physical effort to steer, especially at low speeds or when parking. Driving without power steering is generally safe for short distances to a mechanic if you are careful, but it can be dangerous if you can’t steer quickly enough in an emergency. You should drive cautiously, using both hands on the wheel, and get the system repaired as soon as possible to avoid further damage to the power steering pump and other components. 
What happens when power steering fails?

• Heavier Steering: The system provides hydraulic assistance, so without it, turning the wheel becomes much harder. 
• Increased Difficulty at Low Speeds: You’ll find it especially challenging to turn the wheel when the car is stopped or moving slowly. 
• Potential for Damage: Driving without fluid can cause the pump to overheat and fail, and the belt that powers the pump can snap. 
• Danger in Emergencies: It can be difficult to react quickly enough during an emergency, making it more likely to cause an accident. 

What to do if your power steering fails:

1. Park Safely: Pull over to a safe location on the side of the road as soon as possible. 
2. Assess the Steering: Turn the wheel to see how much effort it takes. 
3. Check Fluid (if applicable): For hydraulic systems, check if the power steering fluid is low and add the correct type if needed. 
4. Drive Cautiously: If it’s manageable, drive slowly and carefully to the nearest mechanic. 
5. Use Both Hands: Grip the steering wheel firmly with both hands to maintain control. 
6. Avoid Sharp Turns: Be prepared for the increased effort needed for sharp or sudden turns. 
7. Call a Tow Truck: If you feel you cannot accurately steer the vehicle, it’s safer to call for a tow truck. 

Get it fixed: 

• Repair ASAP: Get your vehicle to a qualified mechanic as soon as possible to prevent further damage to the system.
• Consult a Professional: A mechanic can diagnose the issue and provide an accurate estimate for repairs.