How to Start Your Car If the Starter Goes Out
If your starter fails, a manual-transmission car can often be push-started, while an automatic generally cannot be started without repair; you can try stopgap moves like tapping the starter, reseating battery cables, checking fuses/relays, and attempting a jump pack, but if those fail you’ll likely need a tow or mobile mechanic. Below is a clear, safety-minded guide to identify a bad starter, try legitimate roadside workarounds, and decide when to call for help.
Contents
How to Tell It’s the Starter—and Not the Battery
Before you attempt any workaround, confirm you’re dealing with a starter/solenoid issue rather than a weak battery or a security interlock. The symptoms differ in ways you can check quickly at the curb.
- A single loud click when you turn the key or press Start, with lights staying bright, often points to a stuck solenoid or failed starter motor.
- Rapid clicking with dimming lights suggests a weak battery or poor battery connection, not necessarily a dead starter.
- No sound at all may indicate a bad starter relay, a blown fuse, a failed ignition switch, or a safety switch (neutral/clutch) issue.
- Dash security/immobilizer light flashing or a “Key not detected” message can block cranking even if the starter is fine.
- A burning smell or smoke near the starter area is a hard stop—do not continue attempts; seek service immediately.
These quick observations help you choose the right next steps. If symptoms point to electrical supply or security rather than the starter itself, addressing those may get you running without further risk.
Manual Transmission: How to Push-Start (“Bump-Start”)
If the starter is the culprit and you drive a manual, a push-start can spin the engine using the wheels. This works only if the car’s battery still has enough power to run the engine computer, fuel pump, and ignition (usually above roughly 9–10 volts). Hybrids and most start-stop systems may restrict or block this method; consult your owner’s manual if unsure.
- Find a safe area: straight, open pavement with no traffic; avoid hills you can’t control. Turn the key to ON (or press Start without the brake) so electronics power up.
- Press the clutch and select 2nd gear (1st can be too abrupt). Turn off A/C and accessories to reduce load.
- Have helpers push, or use a gentle downhill roll to reach about 5–10 mph (8–16 km/h).
- Quickly release the clutch while lightly pressing the accelerator. As the engine catches, immediately press the clutch again to prevent lurching or stalling.
- Keep the engine running and drive for at least 15–20 minutes to recharge the battery if it was low. Do not shut off the engine until you’re at a safe destination.
Executed carefully, a bump-start can get you moving in minutes. If it fails repeatedly, your battery may be too low or you may be facing a non-starter issue (fuel, spark, or immobilizer).
Automatic Transmission: What You Can—and Can’t—Do
Modern automatics (including most CVT and dual-clutch units) cannot be push-started. Pre-1970s automatics with rear pumps were rare exceptions that required high speeds—unsafe and impractical today. For current vehicles, your focus is on temporary electrical fixes and safety switches.
- Shift to Neutral, then back to Park, and try starting; also try starting in Neutral. A misaligned or failing neutral safety switch can block cranking.
- Press the brake pedal firmly and ensure the steering lock is released; weak brake-switch signals can prevent Start-button systems from engaging.
- Check and reseat battery terminals; clean visible corrosion. A loose ground strap to the engine block can mimic starter failure.
- Try a jump pack or booster cables. Extra current can overcome a weak solenoid or borderline battery.
- Inspect the starter fuse and relay (consult the fuse box diagram). Swap the relay with an identical one if available to test.
- Tap the starter housing lightly with a long extension or small hammer while a helper holds the key in Start (or presses Start). A stuck solenoid can free up—use caution to avoid moving parts and hot components.
- Avoid bridging starter terminals with a screwdriver unless you are trained and equipped for the risk of sparks, short circuits, and roll-away hazards.
If none of these steps produce a crank, the safest and fastest option is a tow or mobile repair. Persisting can damage wiring or the ring gear and escalate costs.
Quick Roadside Triage Checklist
These fast checks can distinguish a dead starter from solvable roadside issues. Perform them with the car in Park or Neutral, parking brake set, and wheels chocked if on a grade.
- Battery health: If lights are dim or fade during a start attempt, charge or jump before blaming the starter.
- Cables and grounds: Wiggle-test battery clamps and inspect the main engine ground strap for breaks or heavy corrosion.
- Fuses/Relay: Look for a “START” or “CRANK” fuse/relay in the under-hood or cabin fuse box.
- Security indicators: Immobilizer or “Key not detected” warnings require addressing the key fob battery or re-seating the fob inside the vehicle.
- Neutral/clutch switches: Try starting in Neutral (automatics) or fully depress the clutch (manuals); some cars have a clutch safety switch you can press harder to trigger.
- Heat soak: Starters can fail when hot and work again when cool. Waiting 15–30 minutes may allow a one-time restart—then head straight to service.
- OBD-II scan: If available, a quick scan can flag related faults (e.g., P-code for crank sensor), redirecting your efforts.
Systematically checking these items can save time and prevent unnecessary towing if the issue isn’t the starter itself.
When to Stop Trying and Call for Help
Stop roadside attempts if you smell burning, see smoke, hear grinding from the bellhousing area, or if multiple tries dim the lights substantially. Continued attempts can overheat wiring, damage the flywheel ring gear, or drain the battery flat. Roadside assistance can often test the battery/starter on site and arrange a tow to a trusted shop.
Repair Costs and What to Expect
As of 2025, typical starter replacement runs about $300–$800 parts and labor on mainstream vehicles; confined-engine-bay or luxury/performance models can exceed $900–$1,500. Battery replacement averages $120–$250; diagnostics frequently run $100–$180. Local tows commonly cost $75–$150 within 10–15 miles. Ask the shop to inspect battery health, cable integrity, starter relay, and engine grounds to prevent repeat failures.
Safety Essentials
Working around starting systems involves high current, moving parts, and potential vehicle movement. A few precautions dramatically reduce risk for you and any helpers.
- Always secure the vehicle: Park/Neutral, parking brake set, and wheel chocks if on any incline.
- Keep hands, hair, and clothing clear of belts, fans, and the exhaust manifold when tapping or inspecting near the starter.
- Use eye protection, especially if working near batteries or creating potential sparks.
- Never push-start in traffic, on blind hills, or where you can’t safely control the rollout.
- Avoid bridging terminals unless trained; improper bypass can cause fire, module damage, or injury.
- Hybrids/EVs have high-voltage systems—do not improvise. Consult the manual or call professional assistance.
Following these basics can turn a stressful roadside failure into a controlled, safe recovery.
Summary
If your starter goes out, a manual-transmission car can often be push-started to get you moving, provided the battery still powers the engine electronics. Automatics generally cannot be push-started; your best bets are verifying battery and connections, checking fuses/relays, trying Neutral start, and lightly tapping the starter. If those fail—or if you see or smell signs of damage—call roadside assistance. Repair is usually straightforward, and a careful triage can prevent extra costs and keep you safe.
How to hit a starter to make it work?
It that’s the starter. Solenoid. So you can use a small hammer. Even a small rock. I lightly tapped on the solenoid in my case. And for good measure I just lightly tapped around the starter as well.
Is it possible to jump start a car with a bad starter?
No, you generally cannot jump-start a car with a bad starter motor because a jump start only provides power to a dead battery and doesn’t fix a mechanical failure of the starter itself. If your car won’t start, jump-starting can only help if the battery is the problem, not the starter. However, if the starter is only weak or has a loose connection, a jump might provide enough additional power to get it going.
Why Jump Starting Doesn’t Work for a Bad Starter
- Jump starting provides battery power Opens in new tabThe purpose of jump cables is to transfer electrical power from a working car’s battery to a dead battery in your car.
- The starter is a mechanical component Opens in new tabA bad starter is a mechanical or electrical failure in a component that turns the engine over.
- A bad starter needs a replacement Opens in new tabProviding more electricity won’t fix a broken part; the starter needs to be replaced or repaired to function correctly.
What to do if your car won’t start
- Confirm the battery is not the issue: Opens in new tabIf the car starts immediately after a jump, the problem was likely a dead or weak battery.
- Inspect the starter: Opens in new tabIf the car doesn’t start with a jump, check the starter for loose or corroded terminals.
- Gently tap the starter: Opens in new tabA temporary fix for a failing starter can be to gently tap it with a hammer or wrench, which may help it to engage.
- Attempt a roll start (manual transmission): Opens in new tabIf you have a manual transmission, you can try a roll or push start to get the engine turning over.
- Professional repair: Opens in new tabA failing starter is a serious issue and should be replaced as soon as possible for a long-term solution.
Will a bad starter still crank?
No, a completely bad starter will not crank your engine; a failing starter may sometimes turn over the engine slowly or with difficulty, but a truly bad starter will result in a “no-crank, no-start” condition where you might hear a clicking noise or nothing at all, even though your vehicle’s power accessories (like the radio or lights) still work. Other symptoms of a bad starter include grinding noises, a whirring sound without engagement, or intermittent starting problems.
What happens with a bad starter:
- No Cranking: The most common sign of a completely failing starter is that the engine will not turn over at all when you try to start the vehicle.
- Clicking Sound: You may hear a single click or a rapid series of clicks, indicating that the starter’s solenoid is trying to engage but cannot turn the engine.
- Grinding Noise: A grinding sound can mean the starter’s gear isn’t properly engaging the engine’s flywheel, or the starter is damaged.
- Whirring Sound: If the starter’s drive gear isn’t engaging, you might hear a whirring or whining sound as the starter motor spins without turning the engine.
- Intermittent Problems: Sometimes, a starter can fail partially and only work sometimes, leading to inconsistent starting issues.
How to distinguish from a dead battery:
- Check Dashboard Lights: Opens in new tabIf your dashboard lights or interior lights are dim or don’t come on, a weak or dead battery is a likely culprit.
- Jump Start: Opens in new tabIf jump-starting the car allows it to start normally, the battery was the problem, not the starter.
- Check Battery Voltage: Opens in new tabA voltmeter can tell you if the battery is sufficiently charged (12.6 volts or higher for a full charge).
What to do:
- If the battery is strong and your car still won’t start or crank, the problem is almost certainly a bad starter and needs to be replaced.
- If the engine won’t crank at all, check your battery first, and then consider that it could be the starter.
How do I start my car with a bad starter?
Best practical method for modern cars: push-start for manuals; solenoid bypass or remote starter switch for temporary cranking if you can safely access the starter. For automatics or uncertain cases, use jump-start, tow to a shop, or replace the starter.


