How to Tell If Power Steering Is Working

If the steering wheel turns smoothly with light, even effort while the engine is running, the wheel recenters itself after turns, there are no warning lights or whining/groaning noises, and no fluid leaks are visible, your power steering is working. In more detail, the system (hydraulic or electric) should provide extra assist at low speeds, feel natural at higher speeds, and operate quietly without pulsation or jerkiness.

What “working” feels and looks like

Power steering that’s functioning properly makes low-speed maneuvers easy and keeps the steering feel consistent and predictable as speed increases.

• Light, consistent steering effort at parking speeds; firmer, stable feel at highway speeds.
• Smooth wheel movement with no vibration, shudder, or “dead spots.”
• Steering wheel returns toward center naturally after a turn.
• No whining, groaning, or squealing when turning the wheel.
• No power steering or EPS warning light on the dash.
• No visible fluid leaks (for hydraulic systems) and no burnt-fluid smells.

These indicators together suggest the assist system is doing its job, whether it’s a hydraulic pump-and-fluid setup or an electric motor on the column or rack.

Warning signs it’s not working

Steering problems often show up first at very low speeds or when turning to full lock. Watch and listen for these symptoms.

• Heavy steering effort, especially when parking or at idle.
• Intermittent assist (effort changes from light to heavy), or assist in one direction only.
• Whining or groaning that changes with wheel input; squeal from the belt on hydraulic systems.
• Pulsation or “chop” felt through the wheel when you turn it.
• Steering wheel doesn’t self-center or pulls after a turn.
• Fluid on the ground near the front of the car, low reservoir level, or burnt/foamy fluid (hydraulic).
• Power steering/EPS warning light on the dash; for electric systems, issues may worsen with a weak battery or charging problems.

One or more of these signs means the system needs inspection; continued driving can worsen damage or become unsafe, especially at low speeds where assist matters most.

Quick driveway checks

Engine-off vs. engine-on test

This basic test quickly confirms whether assist is present and consistent.

1. With the vehicle parked and engine off, turn the steering wheel. It should feel heavy without assist.
2. Start the engine (or key “Ready” for hybrids/EVs). The effort should drop immediately and noticeably.
3. Turn the wheel smoothly from center about a quarter-turn each way. Listen for any whine, groan, or squeal.
4. Briefly turn close to full lock each side; do not hold at the stop for more than 1–2 seconds to avoid damage. Note any shudder or loud noise.
5. Roll slowly in a safe area and release the wheel after a turn. It should self-center naturally.
6. Check the instrument panel for a steering/EPS warning light.

If effort doesn’t change when the engine is on, or the wheel feels rough, noisy, or inconsistent, the assist system likely isn’t working correctly.

Hydraulic systems: fluid and belt checks

Traditional power steering uses a belt-driven pump and fluid. Low fluid, air in the system, or a slipping belt commonly reduce assist.

• Find the reservoir and check the level against HOT/COLD marks as specified; use only the fluid type in the owner’s manual (often PSF or ATF).
• Inspect fluid condition: healthy is typically clear to amber/red; dark, burnt, or foamy fluid indicates trouble (overheating, contamination, or air).
• Top up if low, then turn the wheel lock-to-lock several times (without holding at the stops) to purge air.
• Inspect the drive belt for cracks, glazing, fraying, or looseness; a slipping belt can cause squeal and weak assist.
• Check pump, hoses, and rack boots for leaks; wetness or drips suggest repairs are needed.

Restoring proper fluid level and belt condition often brings back normal assist, but leaks or damaged components require professional service.

Electric power steering (EPS): electrical and sensor checks

EPS uses an electric motor and control module; voltage and sensor data are critical. Many EPS issues trace to power supply or stored faults.

• Look for a steering/EPS warning light; intermittent lights under heavy parking maneuvers can signal overheating or weak voltage.
• Verify battery and charging health: about 12.4–12.7V engine off; roughly 13.5–14.7V running. Low voltage can reduce or disable assist.
• Check relevant fuses/relays for the steering system; replace if blown and re-evaluate.
• If the battery was recently disconnected, some vehicles require a steering angle sensor relearn (see manual or scan tool).
• Listen near the column or rack for motor noises when turning; harsh grinding suggests a mechanical fault.
• Scan with an OBD-II tool that can read steering/EPS modules to retrieve and address stored diagnostic trouble codes.

Ensuring proper voltage and clearing or addressing EPS codes often restores normal assist; persistent faults point to wiring, sensor, or motor/module issues.

Road-test cues

A short, controlled drive confirms real-world behavior across speeds and steering angles.

• Parking-lot test: slow figure-eights and tight turns; effort should stay light and even without noise.
• City speeds: consistent assist during gentle lane changes, no pulsing or hitching.
• Highway: stable on-center feel; the wheel shouldn’t wander or feel overly boosted.
• Left vs. right turns: effort should be symmetric; a difference suggests internal rack or pump issues, or alignment/binding joints.

Consistency across these scenarios indicates the system is healthy; discrepancies help narrow the fault to assist, alignment, or suspension components.

Common causes of weak or no assist (and quick fixes)

If your checks suggest a problem, these are typical causes and first steps before deeper repair.

• Low or aerated fluid (hydraulic): top up with the correct spec, bleed by turning lock-to-lock briefly.
• Leaking hose, rack, or pump: identify the leak source; repair is required to avoid pump damage.
• Loose/glazed belt or bad tensioner: adjust/replace to restore pump speed under load.
• Clogged reservoir screen/contaminated fluid: flush per manufacturer guidance.
• Failing pump (hydraulic): whine with low assist often points to internal wear; replace/rebuild.
• Binding steering shaft u-joint or ball joints/tie rods: increases effort even with good assist; lubricate/replace and align.
• Weak battery/alternator (EPS): restore charging system; many EPS units cut assist on low voltage.
• Blown fuse, wiring fault, or EPS module/motor failure: diagnose with wiring checks and module scan.

Addressing these basics frequently restores normal operation; unresolved issues call for professional diagnostics to prevent safety risks.

When it’s unsafe to drive

Some symptoms indicate you should stop driving and seek assistance.

• Sudden, persistent heavy steering or loss of assist during a turn.
• Steering/EPS warning light with noticeably reduced assist.
• Rapid fluid loss, visible puddle, or smoke/burnt smell from steering fluid.
• Metallic grinding or the wheel not returning toward center.

Continuing to drive can lead to loss of control or severe component damage; arrange a tow if in doubt.

Summary

Power steering is working if the steering effort is light and even with the engine on, the wheel self-centers, there are no noises or warning lights, and—for hydraulic systems—the fluid level and belt are sound. Basic driveway checks (engine-off/on comparison, fluid/belt inspection, EPS voltage and fuse checks, and a short road test) quickly confirm function. If symptoms persist—heavy or intermittent assist, noises, leaks, or dash warnings—diagnose further with an OBD-II scan and address leaks, belts, voltage, or component faults before driving further.

How do you test power steering?

A power steering test can be a basic visual inspection for leaks and fluid condition, a simple “feel” test with the engine on to check for smooth, assisted steering, or a more involved power steering pressure test using a gauge to measure pump output and identify system restrictions. The pressure test specifically diagnoses hydraulic power steering systems and is performed by measuring idle pressure, then “dead-heading” the pump to find its maximum pressure capability. For electric power steering (EPS), a multimeter is used to test the motor’s resistance and voltage.
 
Visual and Feel Test (DIY)

1. Check Fluid: Look at the power steering fluid reservoir for proper fill level and check for any dark, dirty, or burnt-smelling fluid. 
2. Inspect for Leaks: With the engine off, use a flashlight to check the pump, hoses, and connections for any signs of leaks. 
3. Engine On: Start the engine and turn the wheel from lock to lock. 
   • Listen: Pay attention to unusual noises like whining or groaning. 
   • Feel: The steering should feel smooth and light. If it feels heavy or doesn’t move easily, there’s a power steering issue. 

Pressure Test (Hydraulic Systems)
This is a more advanced test that requires a power steering pressure gauge. 

1. Connect Gauge: Install the pressure gauge between the high-pressure hose and the steering gear. 
2. Warm Up & Bleed: Start the engine and run it until the fluid is at operating temperature, turning the wheel lock-to-lock to remove air from the system. 
3. Check Idle Pressure: With the shut-off valve on the tester open, measure the system pressure at idle. It should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. 
4. Dead-Head Test: Close the valve on the tester to “dead-head” the pump and find its maximum pressure. 
   • Caution: Do not hold the valve closed for more than about 5 seconds to prevent damage to the pump. 
5. Interpret Results:
   • Low Pressure: If the pump pressure is low, there may be a problem with the pump or its belt. 
   • Normal Pressure: If pump pressure is good, the issue could be in the steering gear or hoses. A pressure test that shows a significant drop when the wheel is turned indicates a problem with the steering unit. 

Electric Power Steering (EPS) Test

1. Access Motor: Disconnect the wiring from the power steering motor. 
2. Check Resistance: Use a multimeter to check the resistance across the motor terminals. 
3. Check Voltage: With the engine on, check for proper voltage to the motor. 
4. Consult Manual: Always refer to the vehicle’s manufacturer’s procedures for specific test values. 

How do I know if my power steering is working?

So the way I like to tell people to check this is when the engine’s off the steering should be really stiff. It’s not locked. It’s just this hard to move.

What is the most common cause of power steering failure?

The most common causes of power steering failure are a low fluid level due to a leak and a worn-out or slipping drive belt that powers the pump. Other causes include a failing power steering pump, a damaged or failing power steering rack, or issues with the system’s hoses, couplings, or, in the case of electric power steering, a faulty control module or motor.
 
For Hydraulic Power Steering (Fluid-Based)

• Fluid Leaks: This is the most frequent cause of power steering issues, leading to low fluid levels and a loss of hydraulic pressure. Leaks can originate from cracked hoses, loose couplings, or a failing power steering rack. 
• Worn-Out Drive Belt: A slipping or damaged belt that drives the power steering pump will prevent the pump from operating, resulting in heavy steering. 
• Failing Power Steering Pump: The pump, which pressurizes the fluid, can wear out over time, leading to reduced pressure, whining noises, and eventual failure. 
• Worn Hoses: Over time, hoses can become cracked, brittle, or lose their seals, leading to fluid leaks. 
• Faulty Power Steering Rack: The steering rack can develop wear and tear, including faulty seals, that can cause fluid leaks and power steering failure. 

For Electric Power Steering (EPS)

• Faulty Control Module: Modern vehicles often use electric power steering, and the onboard computer module is a common point of failure. 
• Failing Electric Motor: The electric motors that assist steering can also fail, leading to loss of power assist. 

How to Troubleshoot

1. Check Fluid Level: Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir and ensure the fluid is at the proper level. 
2. Look for Leaks: Check for any visible fluid leaks under the car, especially around the hoses and steering rack. 
3. Inspect the Belt: Examine the power steering belt for cracks, fraying, or signs of slipping. 
4. Listen for Noises: Pay attention to any whining or grinding noises when turning the steering wheel, which can signal a pump problem. 

If you notice any signs of power steering failure, have the system inspected by a professional to prevent more significant damage and ensure safe driving conditions.

How much does it cost to fix power steering?

Fixing power steering can cost anywhere from $10 for a simple fluid top-off to over $1,000 for a major component replacement, with a typical power steering pump replacement costing between $500 and $900. The final price depends on the specific problem (such as a leaky hose, failing pump, or worn rack), the cost of parts for your vehicle’s make and model, and local labor rates. 
Common Power Steering Issues & Costs

• Fluid Leak/Low Fluid: Opens in new tabAdding fluid can be as cheap as $10-$20, while a leaky hose can range from $150 to $300 to replace. 
• Power Steering Pump: Opens in new tabA failing pump can cost $500 to $900 for a complete replacement, including parts and labor. 
• Power Steering Rack: Opens in new tabReplacing the entire rack-and-pinion assembly, a more extensive job, can cost between $500 and $1,200 or more. 

Factors Influencing Repair Costs

• Part Type: New, OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts are generally more expensive than aftermarket or used parts, though used parts may have a shorter lifespan. 
• Vehicle Make and Model: Luxury or larger vehicles often require more expensive parts and may have longer labor times, driving up the total cost. 
• Labor Costs: Rates for mechanics vary significantly by location and shop, which impacts the overall price. 
• Dealer vs. Independent Shop: Dealerships typically charge more than independent mechanics for the same repairs. 

To Get an Accurate Estimate

• Identify the Problem: Note any symptoms like hard steering, whining noises, or fluid leaks to help a mechanic diagnose the issue. 
• Get a Diagnostic: Visit a trusted mechanic or repair shop for an expert assessment to determine the exact problem and get a precise quote. 
• Consider Your Location: Local labor rates and part availability will affect the final price, so it’s best to get quotes from local shops.