How to Tell If Tongue Weight Is Too Heavy

Tongue weight is too heavy when it exceeds recommended percentages of your trailer’s weight (typically 10–15% for conventional bumper-pull trailers, 15–25% for gooseneck/fifth-wheel) or any rating for your hitch, tow vehicle payload, or rear axle, and it often shows up as rear suspension sag, light steering, longer braking distances, and headlights pointing high. You can confirm by measuring tongue weight with a scale or at a public vehicle scale and comparing it to your equipment’s limits.

What Tongue Weight Is—and the Target Range

Tongue weight (TW) is the downward force the trailer exerts on the hitch. For stability and control, most conventional (bumper-pull) trailers perform best when TW is 10–15% of the trailer’s actual loaded weight. Gooseneck and fifth-wheel trailers typically run higher, around 15–25% because the load is over the truck’s axle and the coupling geometry is different. Staying within these ranges—and within your vehicle and hitch ratings—helps ensure predictable steering, braking, and tire loading.

Quick Signs Your Tongue Weight Is Too Heavy

There are several noticeable symptoms when tongue weight is excessive for your setup. These clues often appear together and worsen as load increases.

• Rear suspension squats noticeably; front end lifts, making steering feel light or vague.
• Headlights aim high; oncoming drivers may flash you, and road visibility directly ahead worsens.
• Longer stopping distances; front brakes feel less effective because the front axle is unloaded.
• Rear axle or tires run hot; potential overload indicated by bulging sidewalls or high tire temperatures.
• Frequent bottoming-out over bumps, driveway entries, or railroad crossings.
• Stability/traction or ABS warning lights may flicker as systems compensate for weight transfer.
• Weight distribution hitch (WDH) spring bars are maxed out or cannot restore the front axle close to unhitched weight.
• Measured drop in front fender height and significant rear drop (often more than 1–1.5 inches on many vehicles) compared to unhitched.
• Hitch hardware creaks, groans, or shows signs of stress; drawbar or receiver flex appears excessive.

While any single sign can have multiple causes, a combination—especially sagging rear suspension and degraded steering/braking—strongly suggests tongue weight is beyond what your setup can comfortably or safely handle.

How to Measure Tongue Weight Accurately

Visual checks help, but the only reliable way to know is to measure. Use a dedicated tongue weight scale, a public CAT/vehicle scale, or (for very light trailers) a lever/bathroom-scale method, and compare against your trailer, hitch, and tow vehicle ratings.

Using a Tongue Weight Scale

Place the scale directly under the coupler jack or a sturdy adapter block, uncouple the trailer from the vehicle on level ground, and lower the coupler onto the scale until it supports the full tongue load. Read and record the value. Ensure the trailer is loaded exactly as it will be towed, including water, gear, and propane.

Using a Public CAT or Vehicle Scale

This method is accurate and works for any size trailer. It also helps you check axle loads and payload. Perform two weighings on level ground and, if you use a weight distribution hitch, temporarily disengage the spring bars to read true tongue load.

1. Weigh the tow vehicle alone: record front axle (F1) and rear axle (R1) weights.
2. Hitch the trailer and weigh again with all axles on the scale and WDH bars disengaged: record tow vehicle front (F2), tow vehicle rear (R2), and trailer axle(s) (T2).
3. Calculate tongue weight: TW = (F2 + R2) − (F1 + R1). This is the actual load added to the vehicle by the trailer’s tongue.
4. Check loaded trailer weight: Trailer weight = T2 + TW. Then verify TW percentage: TW% = TW ÷ (T2 + TW).
5. If you’ll tow with a WDH engaged, re-engage it and do a third pass to verify that the front axle weight is restored close to F1 and that no axle exceeds its GAWR.

These measurements confirm both your tongue load and whether any axle or the vehicle gross ratings are exceeded with your real-world loading.

Using a Bathroom Scale (Light Trailers Only)

For small utility or lightweight travel trailers, you can place the coupler on a sturdy beam and fulcrum with a known lever ratio and the bathroom scale at the opposite end. Multiply the scale reading by the ratio to get true tongue weight. Only attempt this on level ground with solid supports and when the estimated tongue weight is safely within the scale’s capacity and the rig’s stability margins.

Compare Against the Right Limits

Once you have tongue weight, verify it against the equipment’s ratings and best-practice ranges. Each item below must be within limits; exceeding any single limit means your tongue weight is effectively too heavy for the current setup.

• Recommended TW percentage: 10–15% for conventional trailers; 15–25% for gooseneck/fifth-wheel.
• Hitch receiver rating: weight-carrying (no WDH) and weight-distributing (with WDH) ratings often differ; never exceed the lower applicable number.
• Tow vehicle payload: payload sticker (driver door jamb) must accommodate tongue weight plus passengers, cargo, and accessories.
• Axle ratings (GAWR): ensure neither front nor rear axle exceeds its Gross Axle Weight Rating.
• Tire load ratings and pressures: confirm each tire’s load capacity and inflate to appropriate pressure for the measured axle weight.
• Ball mount/drawbar and ball ratings: components must be rated at or above measured tongue weight.
• Trailer coupler rating: the coupler’s maximum tongue load must not be exceeded.
• Weight distribution hitch components: spring bars should be sized to the actual tongue weight range.

If any rating is breached—even if the percentage looks fine—the tongue weight is too heavy for your current vehicle or hardware, and changes are required before towing.

What to Do If Tongue Weight Is Too Heavy

If measurements or symptoms indicate excessive tongue weight, there are safe remedies. Choose the approach that keeps you within all ratings and preserves proper balance.

• Shift cargo rearward slightly while keeping most heavy items near or slightly ahead of the trailer axle(s). Avoid moving weight so far back that TW drops below 10% (which can cause sway).
• Manage tank loads: if fresh water or other heavy tanks are forward of the axle, traveling with less water can reduce TW; if aft, filling may help redistribute.
• Relocate fixed items if feasible (e.g., move a battery or spare tire from the tongue to a position over/behind the axle, respecting overall balance).
• Reduce overall load: remove nonessential cargo to bring both trailer weight and TW down.
• Use a properly rated weight distribution hitch and set it up to restore front axle load toward unhitched weight; match spring bars to your actual TW.
• Avoid long hitch extensions, which increase leverage on the receiver and can reduce rated capacity; use the shortest practical setup.
• Ensure the trailer tows level: adjust hitch height so the trailer frame is level, which helps maintain correct load distribution.
• Upgrade components if needed: higher-rated receiver, ball mount, or ultimately a tow vehicle with higher payload/rear GAWR.

After changes, re-measure tongue weight and axle loads to confirm you’re within limits and the trailer remains stable at highway speeds.

Safety Thresholds and Real-World Examples

Concrete numbers make it easier to judge whether you’re in a safe range. Use these scenarios as a guide and always verify against your specific ratings.

• 5,000 lb travel trailer: Target TW is 500–750 lb. If measured TW is 900–1,000 lb, that’s 18–20%—likely too heavy unless the hitch, payload, and rear axle can support it. Handling will feel nose-heavy on the hitch.
• 7,500 lb cargo trailer: Target TW is 750–1,125 lb. With a 1,200 lb TW, you’re slightly over 16%. This can be acceptable if all ratings (receiver with WDH, payload, tires, GAWR) are respected, but watch rear axle load.
• Car hauler with vehicle positioned too far forward: TW spikes and the rear of the tow vehicle squats. Moving the vehicle back a few inches often brings TW into the 10–15% window without inducing sway.

Your exact safe window depends on ratings printed on your equipment and the true loaded weights. When in doubt, adjust load positions incrementally and re-weigh.

Common Myths to Avoid

Misinformation leads to unsafe setups. Keep these clarifications in mind.

• “More tongue weight always stops sway.” Increasing TW helps up to the recommended range; beyond that, you overload components and degrade handling.
• “A weight distribution hitch raises my vehicle’s maximum ratings.” A WDH can raise the receiver’s allowable tongue rating only if specified by the manufacturer; it does not increase the tow vehicle’s GVWR, GAWR, or payload.
• “Airbags or helper springs fix overload.” They can level the ride but do not increase rated capacities or reduce actual axle/tire loads.
• “If the rig looks level, the weight is fine.” Appearance is not a substitute for scale measurements.

Rely on published ratings and measured weights, not just how the setup looks or feels on the road.

When to Seek Professional Help

If you can’t get within limits or you’re unsure about measurements and setup, bring in an expert.

• Certified scale operators can help you gather accurate axle and gross weights.
• RV service technicians can assess load distribution, tank placement, and WDH setup.
• Hitch specialists can confirm receiver compatibility, select correct spring bars, and check for component stress.

Professional guidance is especially valuable for heavy trailers, complex WDH setups, or when upgrading towing equipment.

Summary

Your tongue weight is too heavy if it exceeds 10–15% of your conventional trailer’s loaded weight (15–25% for gooseneck/fifth-wheel) or any component rating, and it often shows up as rear squat, light steering, poor braking, and high-aiming headlights. Measure TW with a scale or at a public vehicle scale, verify against hitch, payload, axle, and tire limits, and correct by shifting or reducing load, properly setting up a WDH, or upgrading equipment. Always re-weigh after adjustments to confirm a safe, stable, and compliant tow.

How to fix too much tongue weight?

Properly leveling your trailer by adjusting the hitch ball height can reduce the force placed on the hitch, which impacts tongue weight.

Is it better to have too much or too little tongue weight?

Too much or too little weight can have negative effects when towing. You want to always be within the 10-15 percent sweet spot. This ensures a proper balance of weight between the front and rear of the trailer, and in turn, what is best for your vehicle’s chassis, suspension, brakes, and steering.

How to check tongue weight?

To check tongue weight, the most recommended method is to use a dedicated tongue weight scale, placing it under the trailer jack, and then lowering the trailer onto the scale. Alternatively, you can use a DIY method with a bathroom scale, a long board, and supports to create a lever system, or use commercial truck scales (like CAT Scales) by weighing the tow vehicle both attached and detached from the trailer. Accurate tongue weight, typically 10-15% of the total trailer weight, is crucial for safe and stable towing.
 
Using a Dedicated Tongue Weight Scale (Recommended)

1. Load the trailer: Ensure your trailer is loaded with all the gear you’d normally take on a trip. 
2. Park on a level surface: Find a hard, level area like a parking lot or driveway. 
3. Place the scale: Position the specialized tongue weight scale under the trailer’s tongue jack. 
4. Lower the jack: Carefully lower the tongue jack until the trailer’s weight rests fully on the scale. 
5. Read the measurement: Take the reading from the scale. 

This video shows how to measure tongue weight using a dedicated scale: 55sJohn’s DIY PlaygroundYouTube · Jul 18, 2020
Using a DIY Bathroom Scale Setup

1. 1. Gather materials: You’ll need a bathroom scale, a strong, level board (about 4-5 feet long), and some support items like pipes and bricks. 
2. 2. Set up the supports: Place a brick and the bathroom scale on a level surface, about three feet apart. 
3. 3. Position the board: Lay the long board across the brick and the scale, ensuring it extends over the trailer tongue. 
4. 4. Apply the tongue weight: Position the trailer’s tongue onto the board, making sure the weight is balanced and the trailer is no longer resting on its own jack. 
5. 5. Read the weight: Once the board is balanced and the trailer tongue is supported by the board, stand on the scale, record your weight, and subtract it from the board’s total weight to find the tongue weight. You will need to perform calculations based on the lever action to determine the precise tongue weight. 

This video demonstrates the DIY bathroom scale method: 1mhoohoohoblinYouTube · May 29, 2021
Using Commercial Scales (e.g., CAT Scale)

1. Weigh the tow vehicle with the trailer attached: Drive the entire combination onto the scale. 
2. Record the combined weight: Note the total weight. 
3. Weigh the tow vehicle alone: Unhook the trailer and drive the tow vehicle onto the scale by itself. 
4. Record the tow vehicle weight: Note the weight of the tow vehicle. 
5. Calculate the tongue weight: The tongue weight is the difference between the two readings. 
   • Weight of Tow Vehicle with Trailer – Weight of Tow Vehicle Alone = Tongue Weight 

What happens if tongue weight is too heavy?

If the tongue weight of a trailer is too heavy, the rear of the tow vehicle will sag, causing it to lose traction and making steering and braking less responsive and dangerous. This condition can lead to a loss of control, increased tire wear, and even potential tire blowouts, as the excessive weight puts undue stress on the vehicle’s rear axle and suspension. Ultimately, it makes the vehicle unstable and increases the risk of an accident.
 
Effects on the Vehicle

• Sagging Rear End: The most immediate sign is the rear of the tow vehicle dropping or squatting. 
• Reduced Traction: With less weight on the front wheels, the vehicle’s steering becomes lighter and less effective, leading to poor traction and control, especially during turns and braking. 
• Braking Issues: The reduced traction on the front wheels can make the braking system unresponsive. 
• Tire and Suspension Overload: The rear tires and suspension system are subjected to excessive load, leading to accelerated wear and a higher risk of tire blowouts and suspension failure. 

Safety Hazards

• Loss of Control: The combination of poor traction and reduced steering effectiveness makes it difficult to maneuver and maintain control of the vehicle. 
• Increased Accident Risk: The inability to steer and brake effectively significantly increases the chance of an accident. 
• Damage to Vehicle: The excessive stress on the vehicle’s frame, axle, and suspension can cause structural damage.