Is it better to go to a dealership for body work?

Often, not necessarily—unless your vehicle is newer, under warranty, or has advanced driver-assistance systems that require brand-specific calibration. A high-quality independent body shop with proper certifications can deliver OEM-quality repairs at a lower cost. The best choice depends on the complexity of the damage, the technology in your car (especially ADAS and EV systems), the shop’s certifications, and your insurance and warranty considerations.

What “dealership body work” usually means

Many dealerships do not repair collision damage themselves; they either operate an affiliated collision center or subcontract the work to an independent shop. When a dealership has a branded collision center, it typically follows the manufacturer’s repair procedures and may have access to specialized calibration tools and OEM training. Independent shops range widely—from small cosmetic specialists to large, manufacturer-certified facilities that meet or exceed dealer standards.

Pros and cons: Dealership vs. independent shops

These are the most common advantages you’ll find at dealership-affiliated collision centers.

• OEM procedures and parts: Strong alignment with factory repair methods; easier access to genuine parts and technical bulletins.
• Brand-specific calibrations: Better capability for ADAS radar/lidar/camera calibration and software updates tied to a single automaker.
• Warranty continuity: Repairs may integrate cleanly with factory warranties, and documentation is tailored to manufacturer expectations.
• Specialized materials expertise: Some luxury or performance brands require structural aluminum, carbon fiber, or mixed-material procedures and dedicated tooling.
• Lease/return confidence: Brand documentation can reduce disputes at lease-end inspections.

These strengths are most valuable on late-model vehicles, high-end brands, and repairs involving sensors, advanced materials, or structural work.

These are typical drawbacks or limitations associated with dealership collision centers.

• Higher costs: Labor rates and OEM-only parts can raise the bill, especially out-of-pocket.
• Longer cycle times: Busy schedules and parts backorders can extend repair timelines.
• Limited scope or outsourcing: Some dealers sublet collision work, which may add coordination and communication layers.
• Fewer paint/finish options: Strict OEM specifications can limit use of cost-saving alternatives when appropriate.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they can matter if you’re paying cash, on a tight timeline, or repairing an older vehicle where OEM-only parts aren’t essential.

When a dealership collision center is the better choice

Consider a dealership (or a brand-certified collision center) for these scenarios, where manufacturer alignment and calibration capability are critical.

• Newer cars under factory warranty or CPO coverage where documentation and OEM parts protect residual value.
• Advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS) impacted—front/rear bumper damage, windshield replacement, roof/quarter panel work, or structural repairs requiring camera/radar recalibrations.
• EVs and hybrids needing high-voltage isolation, battery pack inspections, or thermal event assessment with brand-specific safety protocols.
• Vehicles with aluminum or mixed-material structures (e.g., certain trucks, luxury brands) needing dedicated tools and clean-room practices.
• Lease returns or vehicles with brand paint warranties where strict OEM procedures reduce end-of-lease charges or paint mismatch disputes.
• Repairs tied to service campaigns or technical bulletins that must be performed to the letter of OEM guidance.

In these cases, the dealership’s access to manufacturer data, tooling, and calibrations can reduce risk and ensure the repair aligns with factory expectations.

When a high-quality independent shop is equal or better

For many repairs, an independent shop that invests in training and equipment will match or exceed dealership outcomes—often for less money and with faster turnaround.

• Cosmetic or light collision damage: Dents, small panel replacements, bumpers, and refinishing without structural involvement.
• Older vehicles or out-of-warranty cars where using quality aftermarket or recycled OEM parts is acceptable and cost-effective.
• Shops with I-CAR Gold Class or ASE certifications and memberships in OEM collision networks (e.g., Honda/Acura ProFirst, Toyota Certified, Ford, GM, Subaru, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi).
• Facilities offering in-house pre/post scans and ADAS calibrations or reputable sublet calibration partners with documentation.
• Local reputations for cycle time, paint match quality, and customer service that surpass dealership options.

The key is capability and documentation, not the sign over the door. A well-equipped, certified independent shop can deliver factory-quality repairs.

How to choose the right shop (a practical checklist)

Use this checklist to evaluate any candidate—dealer or independent—before authorizing repairs.

1. Confirm certifications: Look for I-CAR Gold Class/Platinum, ASE, and brand-specific certifications for your make.
2. Ask about OEM procedures: Will the estimate cite manufacturer repair methods, torque specs, weld counts, and corrosion protection steps?
3. Verify scanning/calibration: Do they perform pre/post electronic scans and required static/dynamic ADAS calibrations with printouts?
4. Inspect equipment: Frame/bench systems, 3D measuring, aluminum-capable tools, and clean paint booths indicate investment in quality.
5. Request parts plan: OEM vs. aftermarket vs. recycled OEM; understand implications for warranty, safety, and fit.
6. Demand a written warranty: Lifetime (for as long as you own the vehicle) on workmanship and paint is common among top shops.
7. Check documentation: Will you receive a final repair packet with photos, measurements, scan/calibration records, and paint codes?
8. Clarify timelines: Ask about parts availability, potential supplements, and estimated cycle time.
9. Review reputation: Look beyond star ratings; read detailed reviews and ask for recent customer references.
10. Coordinate insurance: Confirm they work smoothly with your insurer but still advocate for OEM-required procedures.

If a shop confidently meets these benchmarks, you’re more likely to get a safe, accurate, and durable repair regardless of affiliation.

Costs, insurance, and parts: What to know in 2025

Collision repair costs have risen with more sensors, complex materials, and calibration needs. Insurers often have preferred networks, but you generally have the legal right to choose any qualified shop. Parts selection and calibration requirements are frequent sources of disagreement—so clarity up front matters.

Keep these dynamics in mind as you file a claim or pay out of pocket.

• Shop choice: In most regions, you choose the repairer; insurer recommendations are not mandates.
• Parts mix: OEM parts can aid fit and maintain warranties; quality aftermarket or recycled OEM can reduce costs on older cars.
• Calibration billing: ADAS calibrations and module programming are separate line items; insist on documentation.
• Supplements: Hidden damage is common; expect updates once panels are removed and measurements taken.
• Diminished value: After major repairs, you may be eligible to claim loss of value; rules vary by state and insurer.
• Paint and materials: Modern finishes require exact processes; ask about paint brand, bake cycles, and color-matching.
• Turnaround realities: Parts backorders and sublet calibrations can extend timelines—plan for rental coverage.

Clear communication about parts, procedures, and calibrations helps avoid surprises and ensures your claim reflects necessary work.

Red flags to avoid

Be cautious if you encounter any of the following during estimates or shop selection.

• No written estimate citing OEM procedures or refusal to perform pre/post scans.
• Reluctance to document ADAS calibrations or provide printouts and measurements.
• Pressure to use the insurer’s network without discussing your options and trade-offs.
• Unwillingness to talk about parts sourcing, paint systems, or warranty terms.
• Dirty, disorganized facility or obvious lack of modern equipment.

These signs suggest the shop may cut corners or struggle with modern repair demands.

Summary

It isn’t automatically better to use a dealership for body work. Choose a dealership or brand-certified center when your vehicle is new, under warranty, or involves ADAS, EV systems, or complex materials that demand factory tooling and calibrations. For cosmetic or moderate repairs—especially on older vehicles—a well-reviewed, I-CAR/OEM-certified independent shop can match dealer quality at a lower price and often faster. Prioritize certifications, adherence to OEM procedures, documented scanning/calibrations, clear parts plans, and a strong written warranty. The right shop is the one that proves it can repair your specific vehicle safely and to factory standards.

Should I go to a dealer or body shop?

If you want to save money, you’re typically better off going to an independent shop. Because of their higher overhead costs, dealerships often charge higher prices. At a dealership you’ll be getting service that’s specialized for your vehicle, but that doesn’t necessarily equate to better technicians.

What is a red flag in a car dealership used for?

Title Issues
A title issue is one of the most significant red flags to be aware of when buying a used car. A vehicle history report should reflect any title problems, such as salvage titles. Be cautious if the seller can’t provide a clear title or if the title is from a different state.

Is it more expensive to get work done at a dealership?

Cost Factor: Dealership service is generally more expensive than independent shops. Labor rates tend to be higher, and parts are typically OEM, which can carry a premium price tag. Appointment Hassle: Scheduling appointments at dealerships can be more challenging, especially for popular models or during busy seasons.

Should you get your car repaired at the dealership?

If the warranty is still in play, the dealership is likely the safest option. On the other hand, for those in need of a more affordable option and don’t mind aftermarket parts, a local mechanic is a fantastic alternative.