Can you add power locks to a car?

Yes. Most vehicles without factory power locks can be retrofitted using universal or vehicle-specific kits, and many shops offer this service. Feasibility depends on door linkage access, wiring paths through the door jambs, and how the vehicle’s electronics are set up. Below is a clear breakdown of options, costs, parts, installation steps, and safety considerations.

What “adding power locks” actually means

“Power locks” refers to electric actuators that lock and unlock doors via a switch or remote. If your car currently has only manual lock knobs, a retrofit adds actuators and a control module so every door can be locked/unlocked electrically. If your vehicle already has central locking but no remote, you may only need a keyless-entry module rather than door actuators.

Compatibility and feasibility

Most cars and light trucks from the last several decades can be fitted with universal actuators. The key variables are whether there’s space to mount actuators inside each door, whether the lock linkages can be moved by an actuator, and whether you can safely route wiring through the door-to-body boots.

Quick compatibility checklist

Before you buy parts or book an installer, confirm the following points to avoid surprises.

• Door linkage accessibility: There must be a rod or cable the actuator can move (vertical lock knob, interior paddle, or latch rod).
• Mounting room: Space inside each door for an actuator and bracket without interfering with the window regulator or glass.
• Wiring path: Usable rubber boots between door and body to route wires; if absent, you may need to add grommets.
• Door count: Two-, three-, or four-door kits must match your vehicle; include hatch/trunk if desired.
• Airbags/sensors: Many modern doors have side airbags or impact sensors—these affect where you can drill and route wiring.
• Existing electronics: Vehicles with CAN/multiplex networks may need interface modules if tying into factory switches/BCM.
• Special cases: Older European cars with vacuum central locking require a pump repair or an electronic conversion kit.

If you can access the linkages, find mounting space, and route wires safely, a retrofit is generally practical; edge cases typically involve airbag packaging or unusual latch designs.

What parts are involved

Most aftermarket kits include the core components required to convert manual locks to power operation. Higher-end kits may add keyless entry or data interfaces for newer vehicles.

• Actuators (solenoids/motors): One per door; a “master” actuator in the driver’s door adds switch sensing.
• Control module/relays: Reverses polarity to drive the actuators and coordinates lock/unlock signals.
• Wiring harness and fuse: Power/ground leads, door harness leads, and an inline fuse (typically 10–20A).
• Door switches or keyless remotes: Rocker switches for inside control and/or remote fobs for lock/unlock.
• Mounting brackets/rods/hardware: Universal brackets, linkage rods, screws, and clips.
• Optional interfaces: Data/CAN modules for integration with factory key fob or alarm, and trunk release output.

Quality varies: look for metal gears, weather-resistant housings, and clear, vehicle-agnostic mounting options to ensure smooth operation and durability.

Costs and time

Total price depends on the number of doors, actuator quality, and whether you add keyless entry or professional installation.

• Parts (actuator kit only): About $60–$200 for two doors; $80–$300 for four doors.
• Parts with keyless entry: About $120–$350 depending on brand and features.
• Professional labor: Roughly 2–5 hours total for typical vehicles, $200–$600 in labor at common shop rates.
• Interfaces/programming (if integrating with factory electronics): About $50–$200.
• Typical all-in range: About $150–$800 for many cars; complex late-model integrations can reach $1,000+.

DIY saves labor costs, but expect half a day to a full day for a careful first-time installation on a four-door vehicle.

How installation works (overview)

The core task is to mount an actuator in each door, connect it to the door’s lock linkage, and wire it to a control module and power source. The high-level steps below show the typical flow.

1. Disconnect the battery and wait several minutes if the car has side airbags to avoid accidental deployment.
2. Remove door panels carefully, preserving clips and the moisture barrier for reinstallation.
3. Test-fit actuator position, ensuring full lock/unlock travel without binding or window interference.
4. Mount the actuator and bracket securely to inner door metal; connect its rod to the lock linkage.
5. Run wires through the factory door boots into the cabin; protect them with loom and strain relief.
6. Mount the control module under the dash; connect power, ground, and door actuator leads via the harness.
7. Install interior lock/unlock switch(es) or the keyless-entry antenna/LED as applicable.
8. Fuse the power feed near the battery (commonly 10–20A); verify proper polarity and secure all grounds.
9. Function-test each door, adjust linkages to prevent partial travel, and check for simultaneous operation.
10. Reinstall moisture barriers and door panels; confirm window movement and weather sealing.

If integrating with an alarm or remote-start system, installers usually tie into the module’s lock/unlock trigger wires and may program pulse timing (e.g., double-pulse unlock for some vehicles).

Performance and reliability tips

Attention to details during installation determines how quietly and reliably the system works over time.

• Use heavy-duty actuators (5–7 kgf push/pull) for older or high-resistance lock mechanisms.
• Maintain straight, low-friction linkage geometry to prevent partial locking or motor strain.
• Protect wiring with loom, grommets, and drip loops; keep connections above potential water paths.
• Fuse the constant 12V supply within 6–12 inches of the source; use 16–18 AWG for actuator leads.
• Avoid drilling near side-impact beams, window tracks, airbags, and sensors; verify behind panels before drilling.
• Preserve or replace vapor/moisture barriers to prevent leaks and door panel damage.

These practices reduce noise, improve actuation speed, and help the system withstand vibration and moisture for years.

Integration options

Many owners add keyless entry at the same time, and late-model vehicles may benefit from data modules to use the factory fob or to interface cleanly with the body control module.

• Standalone keyless entry: Adds remotes and a control brain to trigger the lock actuators directly.
• Factory fob integration: A data/CAN module interprets factory signals to command aftermarket actuators.
• Alarm/remote start: The same brain can lock/unlock on arm/disarm and during remote start shutdown.
• Trunk/hatch release: Many modules provide an auxiliary output for a popper or release solenoid.

Choosing the right interface keeps wiring simpler and preserves factory behaviors like double-pulse unlock or auto-relock timing.

When to DIY and when to hire a pro

Skill level, tools, and the specific car determine whether this is a weekend project or a professional job.

• DIY if: You’re comfortable removing door panels, drilling sheet metal, and routing/fusing 12V wiring.
• Hire a pro if: The car has side airbags in the doors, complex CAN integration, tight door packaging, or lease restrictions.
• Shops add value: Faster fitment, cleaner wiring, reduced rattles, and warranty on parts/labor.

For newer vehicles with airbags and multiplexed wiring, professional installation is often the safer and ultimately cheaper path.

Common questions

These quick points address frequent concerns about retrofitting power locks.

• Will it drain my battery? Power lock modules draw negligible standby current; ensure proper wiring and fusing.
• Is it reversible? Yes—holes are small and hidden; keep original parts if you plan to revert.
• Does it affect the immobilizer? No; locks are separate from engine immobilizer systems.
• Can I add just keyless to an existing central lock? Yes; you only need a keyless module, not actuators.
• What about tailgates on pickups? Use a dedicated tailgate lock (often brand-specific) integrated with the system.

Understanding these points helps set expectations and avoids unnecessary components or labor.

Bottom line

Adding power locks to a car is broadly feasible and often straightforward with the right kit and careful installation. Expect an all-in cost from roughly $150 to $800 for typical vehicles, with complexity driven by door design, airbag placement, and desired integration with remotes or factory electronics.

Summary

Yes, you can add power locks to most cars using universal or vehicle-specific kits. The job involves installing actuators in each door, routing a fused power supply and control wiring, and optionally integrating keyless entry or alarms. Parts typically cost $60–$350, labor $200–$600, and advanced integrations can push the total higher. Ensure linkage compatibility, safe wire routing, and airbag-aware drilling; consider professional installation for modern vehicles or when in doubt.

Is it possible to add keyless entry to a car?

Yes, you can add keyless entry to most cars by purchasing and installing an aftermarket keyless entry kit or by having a professional install one at a mobile enhancement retailer or dealership. The process involves connecting a keyless entry system to your vehicle’s existing power lock system, or installing power locks and solenoids if it doesn’t have them.
 
This video demonstrates the basic tools needed for installing an aftermarket keyless entry system: 1mCar Sharing JhoYouTube · Mar 8, 2023
Options for Adding Keyless Entry

• DIY with an Aftermarket Kit: You can purchase a keyless entry kit online for a relatively low cost and install it yourself if you are comfortable with electrical work and have the right tools. 
• Professional Installation: A mobile enhancement retailer (like a car alarm or remote start shop) or your car dealership can install a keyless entry system for you. 
• Car Locksmiths: Some car locksmiths also offer keyless entry installation services or can help program a new remote for a car that has the hardware but lost its fob, according to Reddit users. 

How it Works 

• For cars with power locks: Opens in new tabA keyless entry kit can often integrate with your vehicle’s existing electronic door lock network.
• For cars without power locks: Opens in new tabThe system requires installing power lock motors or aftermarket solenoids and connecting them to the keyless entry’s control system.

You can watch this video to see how to install power door locks with a keyless entry system: 56sProvo Beast Audio InstallationYouTube · Sep 28, 2021
Things to Consider

• Cost: Aftermarket kits can range from $100-$400, with professional installation costs adding to the total. 
• Vehicle Type: Most vehicles can have keyless entry added, including older models and those without factory power locks. 
• Installation Complexity: Adding keyless entry to a car with existing power locks is simpler than adding both power locks and keyless entry to a car that lacks power locks. 

How much does it cost to install power locks in a car?

The locks, the installation labor costs, and even the type of car can all change the price. But, in general, you can expect to pay anywhere from $300-$600 for labor alone. And while you can find cheap and generally ineffective automatic car door locks for as little as $100.

Can you get power locks installed in a car?

Yes, you can add power locks to a car by installing an aftermarket keyless entry or power lock kit, which includes actuators that connect to the existing manual lock mechanisms, a control module (brain), wiring, and key fobs. This is a common and relatively straightforward DIY project for most vehicles, though it requires dismantling door panels, wiring, and mounting the components securely. 
This video shows how to install keyless power door locks in a truck: 1mMike and LaurenYouTube · Mar 27, 2017
Components of a Power Lock Kit

• Door Lock Actuators: Small motors that attach to your car’s existing lock rods. 
• Control Module (Brain): A central unit that receives signals from the key fobs and sends commands to the actuators. 
• Wiring Harness: Connects the control module to the actuators. 
• Key Fobs: Provide the remote for locking and unlocking. 
• Rods & Brackets: For connecting the actuator to the manual lock mechanism. 

This video shows how to install power lock actuators on a classic car: 1mMatthew FinlayYouTube · Jul 8, 2022
Installation Steps

1. Dismantle Door Panels: Carefully remove the interior door panels to access the internal lock mechanisms. 
2. Mount Actuators: Securely mount the actuators parallel to the existing lock rods inside each door. 
3. Connect the Actuators: Use the provided rods to link the actuators to the manual lock rods, ensuring they can move the locks. 
4. Install the Control Module: Mount the “brain” unit under the dashboard. 
5. Wire the System: 
   • Run the wiring harness from the control module to each actuator. 
   • Connect the red power wire to a constant 12-volt power source, often the vehicle’s battery, as it draws significant power. 
   • Connect the black ground wire to a suitable ground point on the vehicle’s chassis. 
6. Test the System: Before reassembling, bench-test the components with a battery to ensure everything functions correctly. 
7. Reassemble: Carefully reinstall the door panels and check that the system is working. 

Can you convert manual locks to power locks?

While you may have a little respect for the simplicity of the manual car door locks, they are no competition for their more sophisticated cousin, the power lock. Fortunately, you can buy kits which will allow you to change your manual lock into a power lock in only a few hours.