Is it safe to drive with a clunking noise when turning?

Generally, no—it’s risky. A clunk while turning often signals a failing CV joint/axle, worn ball joint or tie-rod end, loose sway-bar link, or a strut mount issue. Any of these can escalate into loss of steering control or a breakdown. If the clunk is loud, frequent, or paired with steering looseness, vibration, or pulling, stop driving and have the vehicle towed. If it’s mild and infrequent with no change in handling, drive only a short distance at low speed to a shop for inspection.

What that clunk likely means

A clunk during steering usually comes from a component that guides, supports, or delivers power to the wheels. Front‑wheel‑drive, rear‑wheel‑drive, all‑wheel‑drive, and electric vehicles all use suspension and steering parts that can wear and clunk under load—especially when turning puts extra stress on joints and bushings.

The list below outlines common causes by symptom and drivetrain, helping you translate what you hear into likely faults a technician will check first.

• Repeated clicking or clunking on tight, low‑speed turns (often louder on acceleration): Outer CV joint wear; a torn boot may have slung grease. Left turns stress the right outer joint and vice versa.
• Single, heavy clunk when you begin turning or after a bump while turning: Worn strut mount/bearing, control-arm bushing, or subframe bushing shifting under load.
• Rhythmic clunk that speeds up with road speed, worse in turns: Wheel bearing play or inner CV joint wear; may also produce a humming/growl.
• Clunk plus steering looseness, wander, or uneven tire wear: Worn ball joint or outer/inner tie‑rod end—high safety risk because joints can separate.
• Loud bang followed by loss of drive: CV axle failure; vehicle may not move even though the engine revs. Do not continue driving.
• Rear‑end clunk in AWD/4WD during tight turns: Rear CVs, differential or subframe mounts, or clutch‑type AWD unit/differential fluid issues (wrong or old fluid can cause chatter/clunk).
• EVs and hybrids: Heavier curb weights and strong low‑speed torque can accelerate wear of CV joints, bushings, and mounts; symptoms mirror those in gas vehicles.

While exact diagnosis requires a lift and pry‑bar inspection, the pattern of when the clunk occurs—tight vs. gentle turns, with or without acceleration, front vs. rear—offers strong clues.

How risky is it to keep driving?

Risk depends on both the cause and the severity of symptoms. Because clunks often involve parts that keep your wheels attached and pointed correctly, caution is warranted.

Use the following guide to gauge urgency based on what you feel and hear.

• Stop now and tow: Loud/frequent clunks with steering play or pull, vibration through the wheel, grinding, wheel wobble, or sudden change in handling; visible torn CV boot with grease sprayed; burning smell; warning lights for stability/steering.
• Urgent same‑day service: Consistent clunk on turns but no steering change; noise getting rapidly worse; clunk combined with mild shudder on acceleration.
• Short, slow trip to a nearby shop: Occasional, light clunk with otherwise normal steering and braking. Avoid highways, sharp turns, and heavy loads.

If in doubt, err on the side of towing. A failed ball joint or axle can cause a loss of control or leave you stranded in traffic.

Quick checks you can do safely

Before heading to a shop, a brief curbside check can catch obvious problems and keep you safer on the way.

• Verify wheel nuts are tight: Loose lug nuts can clunk and are dangerous. Torque properly if you have a wrench; otherwise have a shop check immediately.
• Look for torn CV boots and grease spray: Shiny grease on the inside of the wheel or control arm points to a failing CV joint.
• Check tire clearance: Make sure tires aren’t rubbing liners or suspension at full lock; look for fresh scuff marks.
• Listen test in an empty lot: At 5–10 mph, make gentle and then tighter circles left and right. Note which side is louder and whether acceleration changes the noise.
• Bounce the front corners: Excessive clunk or creak while bouncing can indicate strut mounts or worn bushings.
• Look for obvious play: With the car parked, a helper turns the wheel slightly left/right; watch tie‑rod ends and ball joints for visible slop.
• Power steering fluid (if not electric assist): Low fluid can add groaning noises; top up only with the specified type and fix leaks soon.

These checks don’t replace a professional inspection, but they can sharpen your description for the technician and prevent a risky drive if you uncover something serious.

What to do next

If the vehicle still drives normally, plan a controlled trip to a reputable shop; otherwise arrange towing. Clear communication speeds diagnosis and keeps costs down.

1. Minimize driving: Slow speeds, wide turns, no hard acceleration, and avoid potholes.
2. Document the symptom: Which direction is louder, speed, bumps vs. no bumps, acceleration vs. coasting.
3. Schedule a suspension/steering inspection: Ask for a lift check of CV joints/boots, ball joints, tie‑rod ends, control‑arm bushings, sway‑bar links, strut mounts, wheel bearings, and motor/differential mounts.
4. Request a road test: A technician can reproduce the noise and pinpoint the corner/system.
5. Plan for an alignment after steering or suspension repairs: Essential to tire life and handling.
6. Ask to see old parts and get a written estimate and warranty: Compare quality (OEM vs. aftermarket) and coverage.

A methodical inspection prevents part‑swapping and often reveals multiple worn items that should be addressed together.

Typical repair costs and time (2025)

Prices vary by vehicle and region, but these ranges reflect typical U.S. shop rates for common causes of turn‑clunks.

• CV axle (per side): $250–$800 on mainstream models; $800–$1,500 on premium/performance vehicles; 1–2.5 hours labor.
• Outer/inner tie‑rod end: $150–$400 each; alignment usually required; 0.7–1.5 hours.
• Ball joint (press‑in or control arm): $200–$600 each; 1–2.5 hours; some cars require replacing the whole arm.
• Sway‑bar end link/bushing: $100–$250; 0.5–1 hour.
• Strut mount/bearing (often with strut): $200–$600 per corner for the mount; $600–$1,200 with new strut; 1.5–3 hours.
• Wheel bearing/hub: $300–$700 per corner; 1–2.5 hours.
• Steering rack or subframe bushing/mount: $400–$2,000 depending on component; 2–6 hours.

Combining related work (for example, both front sway‑bar links) can save labor time and reduce future visits.

Prevention tips

Driving habits and routine checks can extend the life of joints and bushings and help you catch problems early.

• Avoid hard acceleration at full steering lock: This stresses CV joints and mounts.
• Inspect boots and bushings at every oil change: Replace torn boots promptly to save joints.
• Use the correct differential/AWD fluid at the recommended interval: Wrong or old fluid can cause clutch‑pack chatter and clunks.
• Keep wheels properly torqued and hub mating surfaces clean: Prevents movement and noise.
• Maintain alignment and tire pressures: Reduces stress on steering and suspension parts.
• Slow for potholes and speed bumps while turning: Side loads amplify impact on joints.

Small maintenance steps pay off by avoiding the rapid wear that leads to clunks and costly repairs.

Bottom line

A clunk when turning is a safety flag, not background noise. Because it often stems from steering, suspension, or axle wear, continued driving can risk loss of control or a roadside failure. If the clunk is pronounced or accompanied by any change in steering feel, park and tow; otherwise, limit driving and get a prompt inspection. Fixes are usually straightforward once the faulty joint, bushing, or mount is identified.

How much does it cost to fix clunking?

The cost to repair or replace suspension components depends on what you need done — and in how many corners of the vehicle. For basic cars, suspension issues can cost between $150 [and] $800, depending on the issue. For more expensive cars, the sky’s the limit.”

What does it mean when your car clunks when turning?

Clunking Noise When Turning: Common Causes and Fixes Clunking sounds when turning often relate to worn CV joints or failing suspension components. A clunking noise during turns usually indicates worn CV joints, ball joints, or tie rod ends.

Will a bad wheel bearing clunk when turning?

A clunk from the driver’s side front wheel when turning slowly often indicates worn wheel bearings or loose suspension parts like ball joints or tie rods. Inspect the wheel hub for play by lifting the truck and rocking the wheel side-to-side and top-to-bottom.

Will a bad ball joint clunk when turning?

clunking noise when turning could indicate worn suspension components like ball joints, tie rods, or sway bar links. Worn or damaged steering components like steering rack mounts or tie rod ends can also cause the noise.