Is it worth replacing a camshaft?

Usually yes—if the engine is otherwise healthy and the repair cost is proportionate to the vehicle’s value. In 2025, a camshaft job typically runs from about $1,500–$4,000 on simpler pushrod V8s and $2,500–$7,500 (or more) on modern DOHC engines with variable valve timing; if metal contamination has damaged bearings or oiling passages, an engine replacement can be the more economical path. Below, we explain how to decide, what to expect, and how to avoid a repeat failure.

What a camshaft does—and why it fails

The camshaft controls the opening and closing of engine valves. Wear or damage affects valve timing and lift, degrading performance and potentially causing catastrophic failure if ignored. Failures stem from lubrication issues, component wear, and, in some engines, known lifter or phaser problems.

Here are the most common causes of camshaft damage and accelerated wear that influence whether replacement is worthwhile:

• Oil starvation or sludge buildup, often due to infrequent oil changes or the wrong oil specification.
• Lifter/follower failure (roller needle bearing collapse, flat-tappet scuffing) that then destroys cam lobes.
• Incorrect break-in or low-ZDDP oil on flat-tappet cams causing rapid lobe wear.
• Variable valve timing (VVT) phaser or solenoid issues leading to abnormal loading or timing errors.
• Manufacturing defects or known weak components (e.g., certain lifters in late-model V8 trucks).
• Over-revving, valve spring coil bind, or aggressive aftermarket cam profiles without proper springs and tune.

Understanding root cause is essential; if you replace the cam without addressing the underlying issue, the failure can recur quickly and negate the value of the repair.

How to decide: key factors that make a camshaft replacement “worth it”

Before approving the job, weigh these practical and financial considerations to determine whether cam replacement or an alternative is the smarter move.

• Vehicle value and remaining life: Aim to keep repair costs under roughly 30–50% of the car’s private-party value unless the vehicle has special utility or sentimental value.
• Scope of damage: If metal shavings have circulated widely (glitter in oil, bearing noise, low oil pressure), an engine rebuild/replacement is often safer.
• Engine architecture: Pushrod (OHV) engines are generally cheaper to service than transverse DOHC engines with two or four cams and tight packaging.
• Parts availability: Some cams, phasers, or lifters have long lead times; delays increase downtime and costs.
• Warranty/TSBs: Check for Technical Service Bulletins, extended coverage, or goodwill assistance for known issues.
• Usage needs: Work trucks and daily commuters justify repair more readily than low-value, seldom-used vehicles.
• Resale math: A new cam rarely adds resale dollar-for-dollar; it preserves value rather than increasing it.

If most factors align—limited damage, reasonable cost, and good vehicle condition—replacing the camshaft is typically a solid investment. If not, explore engine replacement or selling the vehicle.

Typical costs in 2025

Camshaft replacement is a parts-and-labor-intensive repair. The totals vary widely with engine design and local labor rates.

• OHV/pushrod V8 and V6 (e.g., many domestic trucks): About $1,500–$4,000 total. Labor ~8–16 hours; cam $200–$800; lifters $200–$800; timing set/seals $150–$500; fluids/gaskets $100–$300.
• DOHC 4/6/8-cylinder (many modern cars/SUVs): About $2,500–$7,500+. Labor ~14–30 hours; multiple cams; phasers $300–$1,200 each; more extensive timing components and sealing.
• Premium/European performance engines: $5,000–$10,000+ due to complex timing systems and packaging.
• Add-ons and contingencies: Oil pump replacement, cam carrier reseal, VVT solenoids, and contaminated bearing remediation can add $500–$2,500+

If an estimate approaches the cost of a remanufactured long-block or a good used engine (often $3,500–$8,500 installed for mainstream vehicles), compare options carefully.

Symptoms that suggest a failing camshaft or related components

Confirming whether the cam or lifters are to blame helps avoid unnecessary expense and guides the right repair.

• Ticking/knocking that follows engine speed, especially from the valvetrain area.
• Misfires, rough idle, reduced power, or poor fuel economy.
• Metallic glitter in oil or on the magnetic drain plug; abnormal oil pressure.
• Cam/crank correlation codes, VVT performance codes, or phaser position faults.
• Visible lobe/follower scoring or flat spots on borescope inspection (where accessible).

One or more of these signs warrants a disciplined diagnostic process to confirm damage level and select the most cost-effective remedy.

Alternatives to replacing just the camshaft

Depending on the diagnosis, you may have options that cost less—or offer better long-term reliability—than swapping the cam alone.

• Engine replacement (used or reman long-block): Often best when metal has circulated or mileage is high; comes with a warranty and resets multiple wear items.
• Targeted top-end rebuild: New cam plus all lifters/followers, timing set, and phasers; may include cleaning the pan and oil passages.
• Lifter/follower-only replacement: Viable only if cam lobes measure within spec—rare once a lifter has failed.
• AFM/DFM/MDS delete (where legal): On some V8s with known lifter issues, converting to non-deactivation lifters and appropriate tuning can improve durability.
• Performance cam upgrade: Can be done during repair; requires springs, tune, and emissions compliance checks.

Choosing the right alternative hinges on engine condition, regulations, and your budget and goals for the vehicle.

What should be replaced with the camshaft

Replacing only the camshaft is rarely sufficient. To protect your investment, plan for a comprehensive set of companion parts and procedures.

• All lifters/followers that run on the cam, not just the visibly damaged ones.
• Timing components: chain/belt, guides, tensioners, and any VVT phasers as needed.
• Seals and gaskets: cam seals, valve cover, front cover, and related O-rings.
• Oil and filter, plus thorough cleaning of the oil pickup, pan, and galleries; consider an oil pump if debris is found.
• Head bolts or fasteners as required (many are torque-to-yield and single-use).
• ECU relearn or tune updates, especially if hardware changes (phasers deleted, performance cam installed).

These items add cost but significantly reduce the risk of immediate re-failure and ensure the new cam operates under proper conditions.

Practical evaluation steps before you approve the job

A structured diagnosis prevents overspending and helps you choose between cam replacement and broader engine work.

1. Scan for codes and review data: Look for misfires, cam/crank correlation, and VVT performance; check oil pressure data if available.
2. Mechanical checks: Compression and leak-down to assess bottom-end and valvetrain health.
3. Oil inspection: Cut open the filter; examine for glitter and ferrous/non-ferrous debris.
4. Borescope where possible: Inspect cam lobes through access ports or with minimal disassembly.
5. Inspect the sump: If glitter is present, drop the oil pan to check pickup and gauge contamination severity.
6. Estimate comparison: Price both a thorough top-end repair and an engine replacement; compare warranty terms and turnaround.
7. Check TSBs/coverage: Ask the dealer about updates, extended warranties, or goodwill for known lifter/cam issues.

Following these steps provides clarity on risk and cost, helping you make an informed, financially sound decision.

Special cases and patterns owners should know

Some late-model engines have well-documented lifter and valvetrain issues that can take out the cam. Knowing the pattern can influence parts choice and strategy.

• Domestic V8s with cylinder deactivation (AFM/DFM/MDS): Roller lifter failures can wipe cam lobes; many owners opt for delete kits with updated lifters and a tune where legal.
• Hemi V8s (5.7/6.4): Roller lifter needle bearing seizure leading to cam wear; timely oil service and quality parts are critical in repairs.
• Modern DOHC engines with VVT (various brands): Phaser wear or oil control issues can cause timing errors and abnormal cam loading; replacing worn phasers and cleaning oil passages is key.
• Flat-tappet classics: Require high-ZDDP oil and meticulous break-in; using the wrong oil can ruin a new cam quickly.

If your engine is in a known-issue category, discuss upgraded parts, deletes (where compliant), or warranty goodwill with your shop or dealer before proceeding.

DIY or professional? What to consider

Camshaft jobs range from challenging to extremely complex, depending on engine layout and tooling needs.

• DIY friendly: Older OHV engines with good access, provided you have torque tools, timing fixtures, and service info.
• Professional recommended: Transverse DOHC engines, vehicles requiring engine removal, or any job involving VVT phaser timing tools and calibration.
• Risk management: Mistimed chains/belts or dirty oil passages can ruin a new cam quickly; pro workmanship and warranty add safety.

Unless you are experienced and equipped, professional installation often saves money by preventing costly mistakes.

Avoiding a repeat failure

Once repaired, a few habits and choices significantly improve longevity.

• Use the exact oil spec and viscosity; for flat-tappet cams, ensure adequate ZDDP levels and perform proper break-in.
• Shorten oil change intervals if your use case is severe (towing, short trips, dusty conditions).
• Replace/clean the oil pickup and pan after any metal event; consider a new oil pump.
• Verify valve spring pressures and coil bind with performance cams; update springs as required.
• Keep software current; resolve VVT and oil control system faults promptly.

These steps protect the new components and restore reliable operation, maximizing the value of the repair.

Bottom line

It’s worth replacing a camshaft when damage is localized, the vehicle is in good condition, and the repair cost fits within a sensible percentage of the car’s value. If oil-borne debris has compromised the engine broadly—or if labor hours push the estimate into engine-replacement territory—price a reman or used engine and compare warranties and downtime. The best decision comes from a thorough diagnosis, a complete parts plan (cam, lifters, timing, phasers), and attention to root cause.

Summary

Camshaft replacement can be a smart, value-preserving repair when the engine’s bottom end is healthy and the total outlay is proportionate to vehicle value. Expect $1,500–$4,000 for many pushrod engines and $2,500–$7,500+ for modern DOHC/VVT setups. Always replace lifters and timing components with the cam, inspect for metal contamination, and verify any TSBs or extended coverage. If the engine is contaminated or costs approach an engine swap, a reman or good used engine with a warranty often yields better reliability and economics.

How much does it cost to replace a camshaft?

A camshaft replacement typically costs between $1,500 and $3,500, including parts and labor, though this can vary significantly based on your vehicle’s make and model, the extent of the damage, and whether other parts like the timing belt, lifters, or seals also need replacement. For example, a replacement for a Chevrolet Silverado could be around $3,500–$4,900, while a Honda Civic might be closer to $1,700–$2,300, with labor being the most significant portion of the cost.
 
Factors influencing the cost

• Vehicle Type: Different vehicles have different engine designs, which affects the labor time and cost of parts. 
• Labor Costs: This is often the largest part of the total expense, as camshaft replacement is a labor-intensive job that requires significant time and expertise. 
• Additional Parts: It’s common to replace related components at the same time, such as timing belts, lifters, gaskets, and seals, which adds to the overall price. 
• Type of Camshaft: More powerful or specialized camshafts will naturally cost more. 

Typical cost breakdowns

• Parts: While the camshaft itself isn’t the most expensive part, related components like lifters, timing belts, and seals add to the overall parts cost. 
• Labor: Expect to pay a significant amount for labor alone, as it’s a time-consuming process. 
• Dealerships vs. Independent Shops: Dealerships may be more expensive due to higher labor rates and potential for specialized tools. 

How to get an accurate quote

• Provide your vehicle details: Use online tools from sites like RepairPal and provide your vehicle’s year, make, and model for a more accurate estimate. 
• Ask for a detailed quote: Get a comprehensive quote from your mechanic that lists all parts and labor involved, as well as any related repairs that may be necessary. 

Can you still drive with a bad camshaft?

No, you should not drive with a bad camshaft. A failing camshaft can cause severe engine damage, poor engine performance, and potential stalling, which can lead to accidents. If you suspect you have a bad camshaft, it is best to stop driving the vehicle immediately and have it towed to a qualified mechanic for inspection and repair to avoid further, more expensive damage. 
Why you shouldn’t drive with a bad camshaft:

• Serious Engine Damage: Continued use can cause severe, costly damage to other engine parts. 
• Poor Performance: Expect issues like a rough or lopey idle, lack of power, and poor fuel economy. 
• Stalling: The engine can stall unexpectedly, putting you and others at risk of an accident. 
• Misfires and Incomplete Combustion: A worn camshaft can cause valves to open incorrectly, leading to misfires and unburnt fuel in the exhaust system, which can damage the catalytic converter. 
• Increased Risk: The unpredictability of a failing engine makes it dangerous for both you and other motorists. 

What to do instead:

• Stop Driving: As soon as you notice symptoms, stop using the vehicle. 
• Get it Towed: Have your car towed to a qualified mechanic. 
• Consult a Technician: A certified technician can properly diagnose the issue and recommend the necessary repairs to avoid further damage. 

What does changing a camshaft do?

Changing a camshaft alters how the engine’s valves open and close, which can increase power, improve fuel efficiency, or restore lost engine performance depending on the new cam’s design. By modifying factors like valve lift (how far valves open) and duration (how long they stay open), a camshaft upgrade allows for more air and fuel to enter the cylinders, leading to greater power output, particularly at higher RPMs. However, a change in camshaft specifications typically shifts the engine’s powerband, often sacrificing low-end torque for high-end horsepower, requiring other supporting modifications for the best results. 
How it works:

• Valve Lift: A camshaft lobe’s shape determines how much the valve is lifted. A larger lobe creates more valve lift, allowing more air and fuel to enter the combustion chamber. 
• Duration: This refers to the amount of time the valves remain open. Longer duration allows for more air and fuel to enter but can sacrifice torque. 
• Engine Breathing: The camshaft controls the timing of the intake and exhaust valves, which dictates how effectively the engine can “breathe”. 

Benefits of Changing a Camshaft:

• Increased Horsepower: More air and fuel in the cylinder leads to greater power output. 
• Improved Fuel Efficiency: Optimized valve timing can lead to more efficient combustion. 
• Restored Performance: A replacement camshaft can bring back performance lost due to a worn or damaged factory camshaft. 
• Shifted Powerband: Performance cams often shift the engine’s optimal power output to higher RPMs. 

Considerations:

• Powerband Shift: Most performance cams improve high-RPM power but reduce low-end torque, which can make the vehicle feel less responsive in everyday driving. 
• Engine Compatibility: For optimal results, a camshaft upgrade often requires other supporting modifications, such as improved exhaust systems and cylinder head work. 
• Expertise Required: Replacing a camshaft is a complex process that requires specialized tools and a qualified mechanic. 

How long should a camshaft last?

A well-maintained camshaft can last 150,000 to 250,000 miles or longer, potentially lasting the entire life of the engine. However, its actual lifespan varies significantly based on factors such as the quality of oil used, maintenance habits, driving conditions, engine design, and the camshaft’s material. Poor maintenance or high-performance applications can lead to premature wear and failure, so regular checks and addressing any unusual engine noises or performance issues are crucial.
 
Factors influencing camshaft lifespan

• Engine Oil: Opens in new tabHigh-quality oil and oil filters provide better lubrication, reducing friction and wear. 
• Maintenance: Opens in new tabConsistent oil changes and other engine maintenance practices significantly impact camshaft longevity. 
• Driving conditions: Opens in new tabHigh-performance or heavily loaded engines put more strain on the camshaft, potentially shortening its life. 
• Engine Design: Opens in new tabSome engines may have design flaws that lead to shorter camshaft lifespans. 
• Camshaft Material & Quality: Opens in new tabThe type of material (e.g., cast or steel) and the manufacturing quality affect how well the camshaft withstands wear. 

Signs a camshaft may need replacement 

• Engine noises: Opens in new tabUnusual ticking or tapping sounds from the engine can indicate wear on the camshaft lobes or related components. 
• Reduced engine performance: Opens in new tabYou might experience less power, poor acceleration, or engine misfires. 
• Check engine light: Opens in new tabThis warning light can signal various engine problems, including those related to the camshaft. 
• Visible wear: Opens in new tabA professional mechanic can identify wear, scoring, or pitting on the camshaft lobes during a visual inspection. 

When to consider replacement

• If you notice any of the symptoms above, it’s best to have a professional mechanic inspect the camshaft. 
• Visible wear on the camshaft is a strong indicator that it needs replacement. 
• Replacing a worn camshaft is often a good idea because it can lead to significant power loss and poor fuel economy.